|
kid sinister posted:It would probably be best to put the garage on its own circuit. It is possible for different circuits to share conduit runs if the conduit is wide enough. There is a table for this in the book, whose index number I'm forgetting. And since this is a garage, you may want to think about upgrading to circuit big enough for an car charger. If you are replacing it don't cheap out and not do this. Larger conduit is cheap compared to digging it up twice. Unless you really love digging.
|
#
?
Jan 8, 2017 19:34
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 10, 2024 19:30 |
|
|
Conduit question: Plan is for two separate circuits of 6/4 romex out of two separate breakers at the main panel, through a concrete wall to a junction box (overall run is less than four linear feet,) where one circuit will come off to a separate box and receptacle, and the other will run to the other side of the garage to another box and receptacle. What size conduit do I need to run, for the initial segment with both conductors, and for the individual circuits? I'd prefer to use PVC if it's possible. Related question: For that size of conduit, how big does the hole in the wall need to be? Just the OD of the conduit, or is there a spec for it?
|
|
#
?
Jan 8, 2017 20:07
|
|
|
H110Hawk posted:If you are replacing it don't cheap out and not do this. Larger conduit is cheap compared to digging it up twice. Unless you really love digging. Yeah, that's what I'm thinking. If I remove that bullshit 2-way light switch then the wiring is seemingly pretty straightforward. Then run 12-ga underground to the garage in case I want to upgrade later on. And I'm okay with digging but my back sure isn't. kid sinister posted:Metal conduit can be used as a ground if it's complete, from there to the garage. Here's the thing though: cable runs to detached buildings are usually ran out of the building above the foundation and down the outside of the foundation down to its run depth. Well, only that exposed portion outdoors down to the run depth is required to be protected with conduit. It's not guaranteed to be ran the whole way. It's also possible that the conduit leaked over the decades and filled in with silt. Is there a pull elbow on the side of your house with conduit going under the dirt? You could try turning the power off, taking the cover off and probing it with fish sticks or fish tape. Who knows, maybe it goes the whole way? The ground from the panel to the garage is complete, even if there isn't conduit underground. The underground wire has a bare copper ground (still in that underground rubber whatever, but not in its own sheathing) that is looped around a screw at the box it connects to on each end of the underground run. Currently unknown about the conduit. The underground run actually exits the house underground, looks like maybe a foot down? I'd have to get out there and dig, and the ground is frozen. Might do it anyway. Then the run stays underground and comes up through the floor of the garage, since the yard is on a slope and the garage slab is ~3 feet above the house ground floor. No pull elbow, the underground run goes straight through concrete into the first terminal box. Don't have fishing tape, but had some wire kicking around and was able to get 3.5 feet along the underground run before encountering resistance. Might just be following the void from me messing with the underground cable, though. kid sinister posted:Have you verified that there is grounding wire in the underground section, or are you assuming it? Your wording was vague. I'm also confused on how your kitchen and outdoor lighting stuff is attached to the garage. Those are usually separate. Could you please draw up a crude circuit map and post it? 100% there is a grounding wire. Bare copper wire inside the underground bundle that ties on to a screw in the terminal box on each end, so the conduit in the garage, that grounding wire, and the conduit in the house form a long grounding chain back to the panel. Crude image ahoy!  kid sinister posted:It would probably be best to put the garage on its own circuit. It is possible for different circuits to share conduit runs if the conduit is wide enough. There is a table for this in the book, whose index number I'm forgetting. And since this is a garage, you may want to think about upgrading to circuit big enough for an car charger. Yeah, that sounds best. Simplify the circuit to just power, not this overly complex (for me) lighting thing, maybe bump up the wire size for future-proofing, but keep it 15 amp for now, but yeah, solo circuit. A hybrid or electric car isn't in the cards for us in the near future, barring some sort of windfall, but looking forward is a good idea. Thanks for being patient with me. This house was built in the 1950s, and I think the garage is from the 1970s (although that underground line looks newer), so there is a lot of things that weren't planned the best. Also I'm clearly new at this.
|
|
#
?
Jan 8, 2017 21:01
|
|
|
TheNothingNew posted:Don't have fishing tape, but had some wire kicking around and was able to get 3.5 feet along the underground run before encountering resistance. Might just be following the void from me messing with the underground cable, though. Have you tried unhooking, and attempting to pull the whole bundle? Worth a shot, and if it is in conduit and it will pull, you won't have to wait for spring, can go ahead and pull some new wire in.
|
|
#
?
Jan 9, 2017 01:52
|
|
|
TheNothingNew posted:Yeah, that's what I'm thinking. If I remove that bullshit 2-way light switch then the wiring is seemingly pretty straightforward. Then run 12-ga underground to the garage in case I want to upgrade later on. What kind of wire did you probe with? I'll be honest: even if the conduit is clear, whatever you're sticking down it can still snag. Cable fishing honestly takes a good sense of touch, a bit of finesse and sometimes luck. It's entirely possible the wire you probed the conduit with hit a corner or coupling or got stuck on a piece of rust or even the cable in it. That's why I recommended fish tape or fish sticks. There's one more trick you could try. Unfasten all the wires from both ends (even the screwed down grounds), tie a thick string around one end with a good knot, then go to the other end and tug. Yet another method for pulling cable through conduit is to use one of the existing wires in it to pull through new cable. Don't pull it through all the way just yet, just see if the cable can still slide easily. The string is there to help you pull it back if you pull it down far enough if you can't reach it at the other end. You know, you can run thicker cable now and use it to power just outlets as long as you put it on a smaller breaker. You could even run something large now, then put a subpanel in your garage for those outlet circuits and add something else at a later time. There's other things you can put in garages that can use such a large circuit you know, like welders, air compressors, etc. Also, if there really is a red wire in that cable, then that's 14/3. For a run like that to an outbuilding, /3 is for 2 circuits over a shared neutral. Is there another breaker supplying your garage? Make sure to turn that off too before your work. You might need to upgrade both of those circuits to a tandem breaker since they share a neutral. kid sinister fucked around with this message at 02:08 on Jan 9, 2017 |
|
#
?
Jan 9, 2017 02:05
|
|
|
angryrobots posted:Have you tried unhooking, and attempting to pull the whole bundle? Worth a shot, and if it is in conduit and it will pull, you won't have to wait for spring, can go ahead and pull some new wire in. I gave it a light tug and no dice, but there's only a couple of inches to grab on to, plus the cable is running through what I think is two right angles, plus the ground is frozen. If I can figure a good way to attach the garage end to some new wire, I'll give it a shot regardless. Just need to be able to put some torque on it without breaking anything. kid sinister posted:Also, if there really is a red wire in that cable, then that's 14/3. For a run like that to an outbuilding, /3 is for 2 circuits over a shared neutral. Is there another breaker supplying your garage? Make sure to turn that off too before your work. You might need to upgrade both of those circuits to a tandem breaker since they share a neutral. There is, but it's tied to one of the red wires going to the light switch in the house - it's part of that 2-way light mess. Garage is 100% without power, no worries. kid sinister posted:You know, you can run thicker cable now and use it to power just outlets as long as you put it on a smaller breaker. You could even run something large now, then put a subpanel in your garage for those outlet circuits and add something else at a later time. There's other things you can put in garages that can use such a large circuit you know, like welders, air compressors, etc. That's what I'm thinking, run the 12ga cable now so I can upgrade later if/when. A subpanel in the garage would be nice, but that's adding complexity when I'm not even done sorting this yet. ... ...so how much extra work is a subpanel? I like the idea of being able to shut power off in an emergency without having to run from the garage to the basement. kid sinister posted:What kind of wire did you probe with? I'll be honest: even if the conduit is clear, whatever you're sticking down it can still snag. Cable fishing honestly takes a good sense of touch, a bit of finesse and sometimes luck. It's entirely possible the wire you probed the conduit with hit a corner or coupling or got stuck on a piece of rust or even the cable in it. That's why I recommended fish tape or fish sticks. There's one more trick you could try. Unfasten all the wires from both ends (even the screwed down grounds), tie a thick string around one end with a good knot, then go to the other end and tug. Yet another method for pulling cable through conduit is to use one of the existing wires in it to pull through new cable. Don't pull it through all the way just yet, just see if the cable can still slide easily. The string is there to help you pull it back if you pull it down far enough if you can't reach it at the other end. Some baling wire I had kicking around. Maybe 16ga, uncoated. Certainly possible it got tangled up in nothing much. Yeah, I'm going to give pulling it through a shot, maybe tomorrow. Thing is, you say "slide easily" but this is thick cable that runs through what i think is a couple of right angles and is undoubtedly frozen. So "easy" is going to be relative. I'm trying to think what I can rig up for some leverage.
|
|
#
?
Jan 9, 2017 06:01
|
|
|
You might want to wait until it warms up first. If those cables are bundled together underground, then that is UF cable. UF stands for underground feeder. It has solid wires inside with an outer jacket thick enough to keep out moisture, roots etc.. UF is hard enough to get to bend on the hottest day. When it's outside and the ground is frozen, forget it. When UF is run through conduit, it's usually threaded through the fittings and pipe sections first, then all the conduit pieces are assembled. I just thought of something. What is that red wire connected to on the garage end? What about that white wire by itself also going through to conduit? Is that part of some 3 way switching method? We may be able to juryrig something legal to get your garage power in the meantime. kid sinister fucked around with this message at 19:04 on Jan 9, 2017 |
|
#
?
Jan 9, 2017 18:59
|
|
|
kid sinister posted:You might want to wait until it warms up first. If those cables are bundled together underground, then that is UF cable. UF stands for underground feeder. It has solid wires inside with an outer jacket thick enough to keep out moisture, roots etc.. UF is hard enough to get to bend on the hottest day. When it's outside and the ground is frozen, forget it. When UF is run through conduit, it's usually threaded through the fittings and pipe sections first, then all the conduit pieces are assembled. I thought UF was for direct burial? If it's inside a conduit, wouldn't it surely just be solid-core THHN? I thought running insulated cable like UF/NM through conduits was generally a no-no -- is that more of a "best practices" thing versus code? Or am I just totally mistaken? Or is it just that you'd run UF through conduit down to a specified depth for protection and then run it as directly buried from there?
|
|
#
?
Jan 9, 2017 21:00
|
|
|
Hubis posted:I thought UF was for direct burial? If it's inside a conduit, wouldn't it surely just be solid-core THHN? I thought running insulated cable like UF/NM through conduits was generally a no-no -- is that more of a "best practices" thing versus code? Or am I just totally mistaken? If he has another THHN running alongside that UF, then he probably has conduit the whole way there. And it's a best practice thing to not run any doubly jacketed cable in conduit because of how much it doesn't want to bend. There's no code against it. Edit: there are some restrictions for cable you can't run in conduits. For instance, no bare grounds for isolated grounded outlets. That can't be a bare ground, it has to be green jacketed all the way back to the panel. Your ground wouldn't exactly be "isolated" if it's bare and touching conduit back to the panel. kid sinister fucked around with this message at 22:14 on Jan 9, 2017 |
|
#
?
Jan 9, 2017 22:09
|
|
|
kid sinister posted:You might want to wait until it warms up first. If those cables are bundled together underground, then that is UF cable. UF stands for underground feeder. It has solid wires inside with an outer jacket thick enough to keep out moisture, roots etc.. UF is hard enough to get to bend on the hottest day. When it's outside and the ground is frozen, forget it. When UF is run through conduit, it's usually threaded through the fittings and pipe sections first, then all the conduit pieces are assembled. Yeah, I was trying to figure out how to attach vise grips to a car jack so I can yank this through. Issue then is I'm pretty sure something will get caught and I'll lose the line I'm trying to fish through. The red and either one or both whites are part of a switch-light-switch setup. Is that called a 2-way or a 3-way? Whatever, it's a light switch in the garage and a light switch in the house that both control a floodlight set in the back yard. Hubis posted:I thought UF was for direct burial? If it's inside a conduit, wouldn't it surely just be solid-core THHN? I thought running insulated cable like UF/NM through conduits was generally a no-no -- is that more of a "best practices" thing versus code? Or am I just totally mistaken? Yeah, this is what has me confused. There's UF for direct burial (marked as sunlight resistant, that's the stuff), which would be run through conduit until it gets to a specified depth underground, then just under dirt. But there's also this separate white wire that has me thinking it might be conduit the whole way. That, or someone direct buried this white along with the UF, which seems sketchy but not outside the realm of contractor fuckery. kid sinister posted:If he has another THHN running alongside that UF, then he probably has conduit the whole way there. And it's a best practice thing to not run any doubly jacketed cable in conduit because of how much it doesn't want to bend. There's no code against it. So just odd, not entirely bullshit. I was worried about it overheating or something. It's supposed to hit a whole 40 degrees tomorrow, I might try pulling through then if I can figure out attachment methods. Worst case I lose the new wire and am back where I am now.
|
|
#
?
Jan 10, 2017 02:03
|
|
|
TheNothingNew posted:Yeah, this is what has me confused. There's UF for direct burial (marked as sunlight resistant, that's the stuff), which would be run through conduit until it gets to a specified depth underground, then just under dirt. But there's also this separate white wire that has me thinking it might be conduit the whole way. That, or someone direct buried this white along with the UF, which seems sketchy but not outside the realm of contractor fuckery.
|
|
#
?
Jan 10, 2017 03:19
|
|
|
TheNothingNew posted:Yeah, I was trying to figure out how to attach vise grips to a car jack so I can yank this through. Issue then is I'm pretty sure something will get caught and I'll lose the line I'm trying to fish through. In the US, that's called 3 way switching. In the meantime, you could abandon that switching for awhile and get your garage powered if you'd like. Does the red wire short to ground too?
|
|
#
?
Jan 10, 2017 19:59
|
|
|
GWBBQ posted:Blow/whistle into the conduit and see if someone can feel/hear it on the other end. Or use a shop vac. Tried the shop vac. Couldn't hear it or feel suction. Good idea though. Gave the wire bundle a good tug just to check. No movement. kid sinister posted:In the US, that's called 3 way switching. In the meantime, you could abandon that switching for awhile and get your garage powered if you'd like. Does the red wire short to ground too? Going to abandon that switching regardless. I live in the city, if it's so dark that I need that light to see my way to the house, then i need a flashlight because the power's out for the block. I think the only short was black to ground but I should unwire and double-check everything to be sure. So your thought is to wire the red in place of the black, then only one of the whites, plus the ground, yeah? House-side should be easy enough but I'll need to poke in the garage some more to figure out which white wire to use. I'll need to study a 3-way switching diagram some more.
|
|
#
?
Jan 11, 2017 03:09
|
|
|
TheNothingNew posted:Tried the shop vac. Couldn't hear it or feel suction. Good idea though. Yep, that's what I was thinking. You could also wire up that light to just a regular switch if you'd like. Use the white from the UF, disconnect the single white from both ends and abandon it. Come to think of it, can you tug the single white wire? Individual cables are always easier to pull through conduit.
|
|
#
?
Jan 11, 2017 03:22
|
|
|
kid sinister posted:Yep, that's what I was thinking. You could also wire up that light to just a regular switch if you'd like. Use the white from the UF, disconnect the single white from both ends and abandon it. Come to think of it, can you tug the single white wire? Individual cables are always easier to pull through conduit. Single wire not budging a bit. Either this isn't in conduit all the way, or it broke and is full of dirt. I need to poke at the wiring in the garage some more, see how to remove that switch from the equation. Thanks again for the help.
|
|
#
?
Jan 11, 2017 03:35
|
|
|
TheNothingNew posted:Single wire not budging a bit. Either this isn't in conduit all the way, or it broke and is full of dirt. Single wires that small aren't allowed for direct burial. My guess is it's in conduit, full of dirt.
|
|
#
?
Jan 11, 2017 04:00
|
|
|
OK, how do I install this new smoke detector?  So this is a wall panel specifically for a smoke detector but the screws are at the outer corners and the wall plate for my new smoke detector basically line up with a single gang wall box. I feel like there has to be some sort of plate that would screw into the corner mounts and provide center mounted screw threads. My googling tells me that this electrical box is more common with chandeliers than smoke detectors but I also assume that you need to do this kind of adaptation with more modern style lighting fixtures as well. I'm at a loss, oddly the smoke detector completely covers the panel, I called the manufacture to ask them if they maybe made a different wall mount but they do not.
|
|
#
?
Jan 11, 2017 06:07
|
|
|
You want a mud ring, you can find them at any hardware store in the electrical section and they look like this: Measure the difference between the box and the ceiling and make sure to get one that won't stick out, they come in a range of depths including flat. Mimesweeper fucked around with this message at 07:04 on Jan 11, 2017 |
|
#
?
Jan 11, 2017 07:00
|
|
|
Yep, that's exactly what I need, I knew it had to exist. Thanks!
|
|
#
?
Jan 11, 2017 17:25
|
|
|
Slightly OT but I hope your experience with those is better than mine. I loved the overall feature set, but all of mine started false-alarming about two weeks after I installed them... while I was on a vacation in Hawaii.
|
|
#
?
Jan 11, 2017 17:35
|
|
|
IOwnCalculus posted:Slightly OT but I hope your experience with those is better than mine. I loved the overall feature set, but all of mine started false-alarming about two weeks after I installed them... while I was on a vacation in Hawaii. I hope so too because I'd have a hard time justifying a monitored security system but it would give me tremendous piece of mind to be able to tell my front desk to check on my place if a fire alarm goes off before it gets big enough to trigger the fire sprinklers or endangers my dogs.
|
|
#
?
Jan 12, 2017 01:19
|
|
|
IOwnCalculus posted:Slightly OT but I hope your experience with those is better than mine. I loved the overall feature set, but all of mine started false-alarming about two weeks after I installed them... while I was on a vacation in Hawaii. I keep hearing stories like this all over the place, but I've never had anything approaching this kind of problem with the ones I installed in 2013. I wonder if it was an older version/firmware problem that got fixed?
|
|
#
?
Jan 12, 2017 18:52
|
|
|
This was 2014, so  Pathlight function was almost worth it. I have had issues with other detectors false-alarming, but on the order of once a year or so. Never anything that quick.
|
|
#
?
Jan 12, 2017 20:51
|
|
|
I want to install an exterior outlet on my workshop. Do I need to have a junction box on the inside of the wall where the outlet will be? Or can I just run some armored cable through a hole in the wall? I have the box, box cover, etc. needed for the exterior outlet itself. (NB it's armored cable because all the wiring in my workshop is armored cable, because I'm not going to be putting up drywall)
|
|
#
?
Jan 14, 2017 22:26
|
|
|
TooMuchAbstraction posted:I want to install an exterior outlet on my workshop. Do I need to have a junction box on the inside of the wall where the outlet will be? Or can I just run some armored cable through a hole in the wall? I have the box, box cover, etc. needed for the exterior outlet itself. I'm confused, are you trying to mount an external box or an internal one? If you don't have drywall up, you can still use a regular indoor new work box with knockout. The cover outside will do the weather sealing, provided you don't do a complete hack job on making the hole in the exterior wall. If you want to use an exterior box, make a hole big enough for the MC clamp and screw it into the hole on the back of the external box. You might want to caulk up the back of the box around that clamp before you attach that box to the wall. Regardless, you need a weatherproof GFCI protected tamperproof outlet there with an in use cover.
|
|
#
?
Jan 14, 2017 22:47
|
|
|
kid sinister posted:Regardless, you need a weatherproof GFCI protected tamperproof outlet there with an in use cover. Or a gfci breaker for that circuit, yeah? This is germane to my interests because I'm about to do the same thing, but will just being going off the existing circuit on that wall, which is already protected at the breaker panel.
|
|
#
?
Jan 14, 2017 23:24
|
|
|
Bad Munki posted:Or a gfci breaker for that circuit, yeah? This is germane to my interests because I'm about to do the same thing, but will just being going off the existing circuit on that wall, which is already protected at the breaker panel. That's fine too. They also make weatherproof plain outlets.
|
|
#
?
Jan 14, 2017 23:31
|
|
|
kid sinister posted:I'm confused, are you trying to mount an external box or an internal one? If you don't have drywall up, you can still use a regular indoor new work box with knockout. The cover outside will do the weather sealing, provided you don't do a complete hack job on making the hole in the exterior wall. If you want to use an exterior box, make a hole big enough for the MC clamp and screw it into the hole on the back of the external box. You might want to caulk up the back of the box around that clamp before you attach that box to the wall. Sorry, to clarify: I have an existing circuit in my workshop; I want to run a line from one of the boxes in that circuit, penetrate the wall of the workshop, and install an exterior, covered-when-in-use box + outlet on the outside wall of the workshop. My question is if I have to have basically a pair of boxes, one outside and one inside, or if it's acceptable to just run cable through the wall directly to the exterior box. Which it sounds like it is. And yeah, I've been using GFCI breakers for every circuit in the workshop, and all the outlets are tamper-resistant.
|
|
#
?
Jan 14, 2017 23:36
|
|
|
If it's a weatherproof outlet, does it still need one of those big covered boxes on it? In my case, the outlets in question will be under a carport type situation, if it matters.
|
|
#
?
Jan 14, 2017 23:36
|
|
|
TooMuchAbstraction posted:Sorry, to clarify: I have an existing circuit in my workshop; I want to run a line from one of the boxes in that circuit, penetrate the wall of the workshop, and install an exterior, covered-when-in-use box + outlet on the outside wall of the workshop. My question is if I have to have basically a pair of boxes, one outside and one inside, or if it's acceptable to just run cable through the wall directly to the exterior box. Which it sounds like it is. You don't need a box on the inside and outside. The outside one will be sufficient if you waterproof it properly. Bad Munki posted:If it's a weatherproof outlet, does it still need one of those big covered boxes on it? In my case, the outlets in question will be under a carport type situation, if it matters. Yes, it will. I believe a covered carport would qualify for just a flat flip up type outlet cover. Another option to the big in use covers is to get one of the accordion types with the pop out face. They are a bit flatter.
|
|
#
?
Jan 15, 2017 01:04
|
|
|
I don't mind the in-use cover, just wondered if it was necessary. Thanks. 
|
|
#
?
Jan 15, 2017 01:21
|
|
|
kid sinister posted:Possible? Yes. Probable? No. Just look at the staples you can see. Unless the PO nailed one of the sides into the middle of the cable or hammered the holy poo poo out of the staple and drove the cross bar into the outer and inner sheaths, they should be fine. This is from awhile back, but I'm just getting around to taking another look at it. Just a recap, I've got a floating ground on one of my circuits, and in addition anything plugged into that is energized at ~60v AC, .5 amps along the casing, presumably from the ground being energized. So I figured out why there's no ground on this receptacle:  It's because it runs to this box, where it's connected via sixty year old ungrounded twisted rag(?) wire to another box further up the circuit, as well as supplying power for the (basically) brand stinking new gas furnace  Why the gently caress did the <5 year old gas furnace installers use this ancient ungrounded poo poo wire?? It's less than a ten foot, easily accessible run up along basement joists to get to a grounded box further upstream   Anyways, the furnace and that aforementioned outlet are tied into the old fusebox, which then runs to this next box via more old ungrounded wire, which is where I believe the main culprit is.  Basically, the old ungrounded wire feeding the furnace and the outlet go in through the bottom of that box. The new nm cable running to the right belongs to a separate circuit which feeds outlets in a room upstairs. Both of the newer nm cables to the left go directly to the distribution panel in the next room. So, two different circuits terminate inside that box, one of which is grounded and feeds the room upstairs, and the other feeds the furnace and light/outlet through sixty year old crumbling, ungrounded cloth covered wire. Here's that box with the cover off:  It's behind ducts and hard to reach so I haven't pulled it out and mapped out what's all going on there. But, here's what I'm thinking would fix the problem and what I wanted to get your guys' advice on. Separate out both circuits into separate workboxes, with more room to make connections in each one. Replace the two separate runs of old wiring with new 12g NM-B Romex, and tie out the grounds. The wiring in the box appears to run through a fuse on the cover as well. If I fix the wiring and grounds, I can eliminate that, right? Regarding my other issue, I've got a leaky meter box and a broken hot bus bar lug in my distribution panel, which has at some point been repaired with a sheet metal screw.  My main question is, does the entire distribution panel need replaced and re-wired or can that lug be repaired in any way? I checked the panel with a thermal camera under load, and the screw doesn't seem to causing excess resistance and heat buildup along the left side bus bar, but I'm assuming that it's something I need to address sooner rather than later. Here's the whole panel with the cover off:  My other issue even on top of that is that water is occasionally dripping in through the neutral/ground braid up top, from inside the service entrance cable. It's been fine for the last year since I sealed up the meter box with electrician's putty, but that was a temporary fix and now the problem is back and really needs addressed.  Obviously I need to get a proper electrician in to fix those issues, but what all should I ask for? Eg, will I need new service entrance cable, or can I just ask to replace the meter box? The ground rods for the house (200 Amp service) are tied in at the electric meter box outside, and driven in nearby. So, the distribution panel combines grounds and neutrals on the same wire and sends them to the meter box, which is then what is grounded. Is that kosher, or a whole separate issue? I'm sorry, I know this is a lot of crap for one post... any help or advice whatsoever is greatly appreciated more than you know...
|
|
#
?
Jan 15, 2017 19:53
|
|
|
OSU_Matthew posted:Why the gently caress did the <5 year old gas furnace installers use this ancient ungrounded poo poo wire?? Because they're furnace installers, not electricians. That's an old fused disconnect box that's has been bypassed and is now just a junction box. Disconnects of fused and other types are installed nearby hardwired appliances so that repairmen can power off the appliance to work on it safely without needing to go back to the (usually unlabeled) fuse/breaker. As for your circuit description, you lost me. I can't figure out how that switch figures into it. Could you draw a map? OSU_Matthew posted:Here's that box with the cover off: I can't see anything in this box. Can you spread the wires out and light it better? Also, that transformer might still go to something like a doorbell. How many wires are attached to it? OSU_Matthew posted:Here's the whole panel with the cover off: That doesn't look that bad and should be easily repairable. The good news is that Square D sells parts for their panels, and your panel doesn't look that old. You should be able to get the proper screw for that busbar attachment. Could you post a picture of the label on the inside of the panel door? That will have your box model on it. What does the other end of that cable look like inside the meter box? The answer to your questions really depend on how much slack you have there.
|
|
#
?
Jan 15, 2017 23:39
|
|
|
kid sinister et al: Just wanted to give an update and say thanks again. Detached garage has power once more, in a temporary way. Little update, I went to have one last shot at pulling the UL bundle, so I figured to give myself some space by pulling the white solo wire with the biggest wire pliers I have. drat thing broke ~30 feet in. There's some part of that conduit that is so full of garbage that the wire broke rather than pull through - other end hadn't even budged. Looked weakened and possibly burnt at the break point as well, bizarre. But even with that out of the way there's no budging the UL bundle... not that I trust that conduit now anyway. I'll be back in spring to ask for pointers on the precision arts of conduit bending and trench digging.
|
|
#
?
Jan 16, 2017 05:51
|
|
|
TheNothingNew posted:kid sinister et al: To rehash prior advice: budget for renting a trench digger.
|
|
#
?
Jan 16, 2017 17:09
|
|
|
Hubis posted:To rehash prior advice: budget for renting a trench digger.
|
|
#
?
Jan 17, 2017 18:40
|
|
|
GWBBQ posted:Yeah, this. We also got some tips for digging under sidewalks too if you need to. You'll also need a sharpshooter shovel up against the buildings where the trencher can't reach.
|
|
#
?
Jan 19, 2017 18:55
|
|
|
I went outside today to sit on my deck, since it's a relatively nice day for the middle of January. I looked over at the wiring box and noticed the cover was off. I just moved into my new home a few weeks ago, and this is the first time I've really looked at it since getting the place inspected. This is kind of freaking me out, since I don't think wires should be exposed like that, but at the same time it's been like this for God knows how long. The cover didn't fall off on its' own, either- it was deliberately removed. I know this may sound like an idiotic question, but should I be concerned? I reattached it as best I could, but to permanently fix it I would need to really dismantle the sides and rearrange the wires inside. Here's a visual aid. I can supply more if necessary-
|
|
#
?
Jan 22, 2017 22:38
|
|
|
Vinny the Shark posted:I went outside today to sit on my deck, since it's a relatively nice day for the middle of January. I looked over at the wiring box and noticed the cover was off. I just moved into my new home a few weeks ago, and this is the first time I've really looked at it since getting the place inspected. This is kind of freaking me out, since I don't think wires should be exposed like that, but at the same time it's been like this for God knows how long. The cover didn't fall off on its' own, either- it was deliberately removed. I know this may sound like an idiotic question, but should I be concerned? I reattached it as best I could, but to permanently fix it I would need to really dismantle the sides and rearrange the wires inside. Here's a visual aid. I can supply more if necessary- That looks like it's coax, right? Do you live in a condo or something? If so, call your cable company and get them to come out and fix it. Those connections are usually outside anyway, so it's not terribly hard to fix. I wouldn't suggest you start disconnecting stuff to rearrange it.
|
|
#
?
Jan 22, 2017 23:52
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 10, 2024 19:30 |
|
|
Vinny the Shark posted:I went outside today to sit on my deck, since it's a relatively nice day for the middle of January. I looked over at the wiring box and noticed the cover was off. I just moved into my new home a few weeks ago, and this is the first time I've really looked at it since getting the place inspected. This is kind of freaking me out, since I don't think wires should be exposed like that, but at the same time it's been like this for God knows how long. The cover didn't fall off on its' own, either- it was deliberately removed. I know this may sound like an idiotic question, but should I be concerned? I reattached it as best I could, but to permanently fix it I would need to really dismantle the sides and rearrange the wires inside. Here's a visual aid. I can supply more if necessary- With that many tags on the cables, you should be OK. Anything that well documented is a branch point for subscribers like phone or cable, and those all use low voltage. That picture is pretty bad. Can we get a well lit picture of the inside? Use a flashlight if you need more light.
|
|
#
?
Jan 23, 2017 03:50
|
|