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We bought a house with not just one but TWO satellite dishes on top on the house, installed by prior, prior owners. Is there any recourse I have to get the satellite installers to come haul away their eyesores, or is this now my responsibility?
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Dec 16, 2016 21:25
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EAT FASTER!!!!!! posted:We bought a house with not just one but TWO satellite dishes on top on the house, installed by prior, prior owners. Is there any recourse I have to get the satellite installers to come haul away their eyesores, or is this now my responsibility? You can try, but you I'm not sure if you can force them. I just took them off my last house myself.
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Dec 16, 2016 21:26
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No Butt Stuff posted:You can try, but you I'm not sure if you can force them. I just took them off my last house myself. Do you have to caulk up the place where the screws anchored?
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Dec 16, 2016 21:49
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Think I just put them back in and caulked them.
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Dec 16, 2016 22:16
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EAT FASTER!!!!!! posted:Do you have to caulk up the place where the screws anchored? Yes definitely.
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Dec 16, 2016 23:52
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I still have not one not two but THREE dish network dishes stuck to my house (i'm on DirecTV). I've been meaning to take them off for almost seven years now. There's also an insane web of coax running all over the place in the crawlspace, on the outsides of the house and roof, and in the attic space. Plus all kinds of garbage phone lines, and random other wires. I'm pretty sure at some point a family subdivided this house (without using walls, just... decided) and had someone living in the garage and they all had independent phone and cable. I have direcTV for tv, but comcast for internet, so I have to keep those wires working, and I'll have to make a series of decisions about which cables to actually remove vs. leave in place for the next home-owner to potentially make use of. gently caress previous owners, god.
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Dec 17, 2016 00:10
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Leperflesh posted:gently caress previous owners, god. This is my bedtime prayer every night too.
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Dec 17, 2016 00:43
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Leperflesh posted:I still have not one not two but THREE dish network dishes stuck to my house (i'm on DirecTV). I've been meaning to take them off for almost seven years now. There's also an insane web of coax running all over the place in the crawlspace, on the outsides of the house and roof, and in the attic space. Plus all kinds of garbage phone lines, and random other wires. I'm pretty sure at some point a family subdivided this house (without using walls, just... decided) and had someone living in the garage and they all had independent phone and cable. Rip them all out, replace them with nicely run cables going to a patch panel somewhere. It's the only way to be sure! I've pulled out tons of poorly run phone cables, what look to be 2-3 different runs for remote read of the water meter (which got moved outside a couple years before I bought the house)... tons of poorly run romex. gently caress cable TV installers that run wires around the outside of the house. Super ugly.
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Dec 17, 2016 00:57
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HEY NONG MAN posted:Regarding cable drops: I have them all over my house but realistically, don't I just need one drop? I don't have cable television and never plan to get it. Are you kidding?? Coax cable drops the best! In fact, I just used one the other day to pull some 12 gauge NM-B and a couple cat5e cables into my attic. I've been trying to find a good route from basement to attic for months before lucking out and discovering that run next to the plumbing waste stack. Last one I tried, I managed to get the push sticks all the way through, but couldn't get the wire through because of abandoned gas lines. ...Which, disregarding the sole cable drop for my modem, is the most use coax will ever get in my house. Patch panel + dedicated 5e/6 runs to stuff like POE wireless access points, cameras, or entertainment centers is 100% the way to go. devicenull posted:Rip them all out, replace them with nicely run cables going to a patch panel somewhere. It's the only way to be sure! This x 1000
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Dec 17, 2016 01:14
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OSU_Matthew posted:Patch panel + dedicated 5e/6 runs to stuff like POE wireless access points, cameras, or entertainment centers is 100% the way to go. I uh, my have gone overboard with that sentiment when we bought our house.  Next house I won't go quite so overboard, but when the cable/keystone jacks/faceplates were free...
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Dec 17, 2016 01:30
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devmd01 posted:I uh, my have gone overboard with that sentiment when we bought our house.  --I'm digging the blue cisco rj45-serial cable... You don't need one of those unless you really mean business Since then I've added a cyber power 1500va battery backup and about half a dozen more runs for wireless access points, poe cameras, and my backblazed home server. That gives me an extra two hours of wifi, internet, cell service, cameras and smart things security sensors after the power goes out. Best part of having the main network components racked and hidden away in a locking cabinet is that I can do stuff like this:  I just built these shelves incorporating a couple of cabinets my workplace was getting rid of, and with a conveniently placed pre-existing outlet and new ethernet run, my server has an inconspicuous place to live, I've got a high up spot for great networked speakers, and an open spot for my cellular booster that'll cover the entire house. Eventually I'll add some overhanging bookshelf lights up top and get it stained/polyed once it warms up enough to open the windows. Catatron Prime fucked around with this message at 02:26 on Dec 17, 2016 |
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Dec 17, 2016 02:20
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Is there any hope of buying a very short washer hose and Y connector without getting an extra hose with it? I have one of those LG pedestal washers so I need both hot and cold water split. Due to a series of gently caress-ups by people other than me I won't detail I ended up with an incorrect washer installation and while I was able to fix it I'm kind of unhappy to have ended up with all steel hoses except the short hose and y connector for the hot water. I could just buy a steam dryer kit but then I'll have another hose I don't really really need.
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Dec 19, 2016 01:52
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EAT FASTER!!!!!! posted:We bought a house with not just one but TWO satellite dishes on top on the house, installed by prior, prior owners. Is there any recourse I have to get the satellite installers to come haul away their eyesores, or is this now my responsibility? I used to work at Dish Network customer service. You had to escalate like two levels to get a removal scheduled, and even if you did, they'd remove the dish part but leave the mounting pole.
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Dec 19, 2016 01:53
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Haha, okay, ladder and caulk it is. Yeesh.
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Dec 19, 2016 18:15
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My wife and I took the doors off in our laundry room because, frankly, having doors that open up to have the entrance door and toilet in their way was really obnoxious. But I'm wondering if it's at all feasible to "convert" the doors into a sliding configuration since I already have them and could presumably just get the sliders.
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Dec 27, 2016 03:32
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RICHUNCLEPENNYBAGS posted:My wife and I took the doors off in our laundry room because, frankly, having doors that open up to have the entrance door and toilet in their way was really obnoxious. But I'm wondering if it's at all feasible to "convert" the doors into a sliding configuration since I already have them and could presumably just get the sliders. Are you talking about a bi fold door? Pocket door? Sliding barn door style?
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Dec 27, 2016 03:39
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OSU_Matthew posted:Are you talking about a bi fold door? Pocket door? Sliding barn door style? I don't know the name for the style but I was thinking of a configuration like you have on shower doors where there are two tracks and you can access one side at a time by having both doors slid in that direction. I might alternatively just leave it open, I guess.
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Dec 27, 2016 03:51
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RICHUNCLEPENNYBAGS posted:I don't know the name for the style but I was thinking of a configuration like you have on shower doors where there are two tracks and you can access one side at a time by having both doors slid in that direction. Sliding closet doors? Yeah, you just put in a track on top and hang 'em.
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Dec 27, 2016 16:45
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Sliding closet doors usually overlap about 2 inches, and the kits usually come with a single guide piece for the floor which assumes the overlap is there. From the way you describe it, I assume you have a double door setup - so a total size of 72 inches, each door is 36 inches. If you wanted to turn those into sliders, you might have to buy an extra floor guide piece, and it might look a little funny when they are closed because there wouldn't be any overlap. A sliding door kit at home depot costs like $1xx - two doors plus hardware. I would probably just buy a new set instead of trying to convert existing doors that have hinge cutouts and knob holes already in them, and aren't quite as wide as they should be. http://www.homedepot.com/p/72-in-x-81-in-Colonial-White-Prefinished-Hardboard-Panels-Steel-Framed-Interior-Sliding-Door-Colonial/202089890
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Dec 27, 2016 18:08
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I want to get a set of those sliding track doors for the closet in my secondary bedroom that will eventually be a future kid's room. It has stiff double bifold doors right now - a major pinch-hazard for dumb kid hands. It's nice to hear that they are relatively cheap and easy to install.
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Dec 27, 2016 23:40
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Droo posted:Sliding closet doors usually overlap about 2 inches, and the kits usually come with a single guide piece for the floor which assumes the overlap is there. From the way you describe it, I assume you have a double door setup - so a total size of 72 inches, each door is 36 inches. If you wanted to turn those into sliders, you might have to buy an extra floor guide piece, and it might look a little funny when they are closed because there wouldn't be any overlap. Yeah, OK, that makes sense. Probably a project to defer until after I install blinds in this house at least. lol.
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Dec 28, 2016 02:20
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So, my state has a program where they'll pay up to 50% of energy efficiency upgrades, and offer 0% loans in some cases. I had a contractor come out today to perform an "energy audit", which mainly consisted of him wandering around the house taking measurements of stuff. I was expecting more, like a blower door test or thermal camera... ugh, time to find another contractor.
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Jan 11, 2017 03:16
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devicenull posted:So, my state has a program where they'll pay up to 50% of energy efficiency upgrades, and offer 0% loans in some cases. I had a contractor come out today to perform an "energy audit", which mainly consisted of him wandering around the house taking measurements of stuff. Yeah, my energy audit was free through one of my utilities, either Columbia Gas or AEP. But the guy was awesome and did the blower door test, thermal camera inspection, etc etc etc and wrote up a complete report with estimates and numbers to call for various things. Plus I got a nest thermostat for 50$ off retail. Tl;dr, check with your utilities for those kinds of programs. That guy sounds like a fraud. Unqualified people like that make me wary because occasionally they're just there to scope out valuables in your house.
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Jan 11, 2017 03:36
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Calus fucked around with this message at 11:08 on Jan 11, 2017 |
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Jan 11, 2017 10:54
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OSU_Matthew posted:Yeah, my energy audit was free through one of my utilities, either Columbia Gas or AEP. But the guy was awesome and did the blower door test, thermal camera inspection, etc etc etc and wrote up a complete report with estimates and numbers to call for various things. Plus I got a nest thermostat for 50$ off retail. Nah, nothing from the utilities here. This guy had BPI certifications, so I was expecting more. I guess certifications don't really mean you do a good job! I really should have known better when they said they don't charge for the "audit"
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Jan 11, 2017 14:39
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My energy audit was a least-effort walkthrough, but it was free and supplied me with like $100 of free LED specialty bulbs for my bathrooms. Remember that stuff like insulating hot water pipes is a tax credit (even if only a few dollars since it's a percentage): quote:Qualified energy efficiency improvements are the following: building envelope components installed on or in your main home that you owned during 2016 located in the United States if the original use of the component begins with you, the component can be expected to remain in use at least 5 years, and the component meets certain energy standards. Any insulation material or system that is specifically and primarily designed to reduce heat loss or gain of a home when installed in or on such a home. Exterior windows and skylights. Exterior doors. Any metal roof with appropriate pigmented coatings or asphalt roof with appropriate cooling granules that are specifically and primarily designed to reduce the heat gain of your home. For purposes of figuring the credit, don't include amounts paid for the onsite preparation, assembly, or original installation of the building envelope component.
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Jan 11, 2017 14:50
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So it's raining very hard tonight- unusually hard for a winter evening. I'm reading a book in my living room when I hear a faint trickling sound. Fearfully, I realize this isn't coming from the outside and I check my basement. Sure enough, water is finding its' way inside thru the window. gently caress... The rain has let up, and I think the water has stopped coming in. And thankfully my basement is unfinished and mostly empty so nothing aside from the floor and walls got wet. It looks like a minor leak as far as I can tell- only the right side is letting water seep in. So, how should I handle this? Can I get away with running to home depot, buying window caulk and sealing it up? Or should I have a handyman/contractor look at it and determine what the course of action should be? Keep in mind I live in a townhouse/condo, so my options are limited- I can't alter the grading around the window, the gutters/roof are the association's responsibility, etc.
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Jan 12, 2017 05:51
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Our power company has this program where if you sign up (for free) they send you a couple of LED bulbs and one of those nice power strips with control sockets, where most of the sockets won't energize unless power is being drawn from a specific socket. I didn't even know this kind of thing existed and it caused me to buy a second one for upstairs (upstairs: computer in control socket, 2 monitors and speakers in controlled sockets; downstairs: TV in control socket, fancy speakers and game consoles in controlled sockets)
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Jan 12, 2017 06:48
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Vinny the Shark posted:So, how should I handle this? Can I get away with running to home depot, buying window caulk and sealing it up? Or should I have a handyman/contractor look at it and determine what the course of action should be? Keep in mind I live in a townhouse/condo, so my options are limited- I can't alter the grading around the window, the gutters/roof are the association's responsibility, etc. Pictures may help, and try checking in with the fix it fast thread.
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Jan 12, 2017 13:22
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OSU_Matthew posted:Pictures may help, and try checking in with the fix it fast thread. Which subforum is this located? Thanks!
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Jan 12, 2017 14:33
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Vinny the Shark posted:So it's raining very hard tonight- unusually hard for a winter evening. I'm reading a book in my living room when I hear a faint trickling sound. Fearfully, I realize this isn't coming from the outside and I check my basement. Sure enough, water is finding its' way inside thru the window. gently caress... On the bright side... better to be coming in through the window than the foundation?
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Jan 12, 2017 15:00
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EAT FASTER!!!!!! posted:Which subforum is this located? https://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=2734407
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Jan 12, 2017 15:46
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Does the "Do You Even Grill" thread hivemind have a particularly favorite grill? I searched the thread and only saw a couple of posts mentioning the Weber Summit ($$!) and Weber Spirit lines. Any particular models I should look at? I don't really know my budget, but I much prefer the $500 idea than the $1900 ones. 2-person family, but sometimes entertain 2-5 extra people. I am thinking a 3 or 4 burner would be plenty. I have a 6x2ft paving stone pad to put it on, and there is a natural gas hookup but I am open to propane tanks.
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Jan 23, 2017 23:53
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I love my Weber Genesis I got last year. My parents won a Weber Summit 12 or so years ago and theirs is still going strong.
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Jan 24, 2017 00:00
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I have a Summit because I am literally made of money and I really used it quite a bit more than I thought I would. The rotisserie is loving awesome and you can do some smoking in it too - you can fit 2 birds on the spit, probably did 12 of them over the summer and even did the second turkey for Thanksgiving on it (and a practice turkey the prior month). It is a beast.
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Jan 24, 2017 00:16
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Spirit is supposed to be the best bang for your buck http://thesweethome.com/reviews/best-gas-grill/
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Jan 24, 2017 00:45
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I have a 2 burner Webber Spirit, gets the job done, durable and affordable. My parents had pretty similar grills, so I don't know what a higher end one would be like, but I've had no complaints.
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Jan 24, 2017 02:28
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It's also worth checking craigslist for grills. I got one several years ago for $40, and while it is rusting a bit now, can't argue with <$10/yr running costs. It worked great for burgers and such. I'm sure a new one is better, but for what I used it for, I didn't notice a difference.
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Jan 24, 2017 02:54
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Awesome, looks like Weber is the way to go. I like what I am reading about Spirit E-310, and there is a never-used one on Craigslist for $125 off list 
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Jan 24, 2017 17:39
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You need a grill that can make and hold fire. That's about it. I use a chargriller duo that I've had to replace some parts on, but it's cheap and lets me do charcoal or gas so whatever.
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Jan 24, 2017 19:32
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