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rdb posted:What was the cost of the whole assembly compared to the bearing? When I did my 2500HD it was only $66 off eBay with the bonus of a new abs sensor. The bearing came with the abs sensor, too. Not sure what you mean by the "whole assembly" but no way that includes the spindle and bearing for that price unless it's chinese cast poo poo that already broke in half. I bought Moog bearings for about $110 each from rockauto. I didn't want to use a no name bearing and do this job again for awhile (ever).
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Jan 24, 2017 01:21
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They were off eBay and had 70k on them when the truck was totaled. It came in the same box and looked/was packaged the same as the parts store brand. A mechanic friend suggested doing that because in his opinion the timken replacements didn't seem to be any better than the cheap ones. Lifespan tended to be random overall.
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Jan 24, 2017 01:34
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Seminal Flu posted:Gotcha. I wasn't thinking about 4wd, and I would never think of re-using a bearing in that case. See, I like my cars. I like fixing cars the first time. And the people who ask if they can 're use them are dumb or super poor.
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Jan 24, 2017 03:27
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HandlingByJebus posted:They were not missing when I bought the car. They were not missing when I took the wheels off and rotated the mismatched tire to the rear. They were not missing when I put the wheels back on. yeah fair enough then. I replaced all my lovely tuner nuts with steel ones. they are cheaper, stronger, and I dont have to keep a weird-rear end key in the glovebox that inevitably gets left at the tyre shop.
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Jan 24, 2017 07:02
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Replaced the OEM plugs and wires on the Prelude today. The plugs were dry and just lightly grey, with no wearing on the electrodes. Neither the plugs nor the wires really needed to be replaced but they were 20 years old. Every time I do any routine maintenance on this car I wonder why I'm even doing it if everything looks so new on it all the time.
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Jan 27, 2017 23:33
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Un-lowered the Fit and (hopefully) made the brakes not dangerous. New discs / drums; new pads / shoes; new calipers up front; KYB struts / shocks all around; Eibach springs all around. Ordered new driveshafts because the left one had a torn boot with creaky / loose joint under it. Hilariously cheap, but won't be here until Tuesday, so the car is still on the lift. God I love having a lift.  Parts:  New poo poo up front:  New poo poo out back:  Box o'axles:  I am slightly embarrassed to admit that completely overhauling the brakes and suspension on the Fit has cost less than the brakes alone on a single corner of the Z4M...
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Jan 29, 2017 07:03
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Imperador do Brasil posted:Replaced the OEM plugs and wires on the Prelude today. The plugs were dry and just lightly grey, with no wearing on the electrodes. Neither the plugs nor the wires really needed to be replaced but they were 20 years old. Every time I do any routine maintenance on this car I wonder why I'm even doing it if everything looks so new on it all the time. Preludes all seem to be bombproof, my friend's 89 has only required a spot of welding and an alternator. Outside of your usual services it's needed nothing.
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Jan 30, 2017 10:54
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Changed the spark plugs and oil/filter and air filter in my sputtering 2002 Golf 2.0. The old plugs (just installed ~3k miles ago) look like burnt popcorn and there was only 1 quart of oil in the crankcase  I need the weather to improve so I can ride my bike to work and finally try to re-ring the pistons in this fucker because this is just saaaaaaad.
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Jan 30, 2017 17:45
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Are you absolutely sure it's not valve stem seals? Re-ring is the last thing I'd consider. Rather than turd-polishing my RENIX 4.0L Comanche, I dungbeetled it.   Apparently the idiot who owned this truck was dumb enough to never change the oil or transmission fluid and fix the electrical system with random garbage and 40-amp fuses in every socket, but smart enough to change the coolant often enough that the water pump impeller remains spotless 29 years later. New pump! Cross your fingers, it's a Duralast. 
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Jan 30, 2017 19:20
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kastein posted:Are you absolutely sure it's not valve stem seals? Re-ring is the last thing I'd consider. *"this problem" means oil getting into the cylinders and burning and gakking the plugs. Full history: got a CEL just two weeks after buying it and the code was "P0420 post-cat o2 sensor below threshold". A few months after that, the car starts misfiring. Replace spark plugs, all is well. Repeat every 3 months or so.
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Jan 30, 2017 19:38
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Went to the junkyard yesterday to grab the torque converter off an 85. That year they were higher stall so I thought that might wake my car up a little, to be able to power brake it up to 2500 rpm instead of 2k. Need to do the front pump seal anyway. 2 hours of rolling around in dirt later and I have it out and cross reference the part number online... only to find it's out of an 88 190e 2.6. gently caress. Try googling stall speed of one of those, just find forum posts about how it's one of the first things people replace because of its low stall speed. At least I left with a brand new looking aftermarket radiator for $50. Here's the Snapchat I sent out while at yard. 
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Jan 30, 2017 19:55
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Sounds like bad cat, car compensates for a few months, finally gives in and throws a code, but the mix compensation killed the plugs in the meantime anyway.
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Jan 30, 2017 19:55
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Metal Geir Skogul posted:Sounds like bad cat, car compensates for a few months, finally gives in and throws a code, but the mix compensation killed the plugs in the meantime anyway. ...so it's possible that the rings and valve stem seals are fine? Goddammit. I don't wanna buy a new cat, I already have all the other things 
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Jan 30, 2017 20:00
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If compression is good it's definitely not the piston rings causing that. What's the intake look like? Something might be causing tons of oil to go through the PCV.
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Jan 30, 2017 20:25
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1500quidporsche posted:If compression is good it's definitely not the piston rings causing that. What's the intake look like? Something might be causing tons of oil to go through the PCV.  Intake looks fine, I did a couple of PCV checks, too: idle changes when the oil cap's removed.I'm ready to give up on this thing but I have a year's worth of car payments left.
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Jan 30, 2017 20:35
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Have you tried doing a full leak down test? Would be a lot easier to specifically nail down what the issue is without starting to throw parts at it.
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Jan 30, 2017 20:46
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1500quidporsche posted:Have you tried doing a full leak down test? Would be a lot easier to specifically nail down what the issue is without starting to throw parts at it.
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Jan 30, 2017 20:47
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Y'all know you have two different types of ring on each piston. You compression rings can be a-ok and the oil control rings stuck or worn out. An engine in this state will pass a compression test all day long. Early 2000s corollas are famous for this, as is the 2.0 in his golf. It's best to pull the head and do them all. If your worried about the cat being clogged drive with open headers and see if it's improved. A bad cat won't cause oil to burn at the rate he loses it. https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=2LJfKMDLtwA The video I linked is a long one in a 4 part series but a good example of what you can do at home with minimal tools.
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Jan 30, 2017 21:13
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I use NGK Iridium IX plugs in my piece of poo poo oil burning, craigslist crapcan corolla (loving 1ZZ-FE). They seem to live up to the packaging claim of not fouling easily. I even have the plug number memorized at this point, BKR5EIX-11 Vanagoon fucked around with this message at 00:29 on Jan 31, 2017 |
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Jan 31, 2017 00:27
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rdb posted:Y'all know you have two different types of ring on each piston. You compression rings can be a-ok and the oil control rings stuck or worn out. An engine in this state will pass a compression test all day long. Early 2000s corollas are famous for this, as is the 2.0 in his golf. It's best to pull the head and do them all. That guy is pretty drat good at diagnostics, and has a lot of interesting stuff on youtube. Takes the long way around sometimes, but that's probably more because he's doing videos and taking time to explain everything. Kind of a switch from an ivy league degree in engineering though.
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Jan 31, 2017 01:22
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scuz posted:...so it's possible that the rings and valve stem seals are fine? Goddammit. I don't wanna buy a new cat, I already have all the other things buy a new cat? Is it clogged? That can be fixed with a broom handle AND you can sweep up and sell the platinum. edit: I always giggle when I respond to you. <--- Literally a picture of scuz.
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Jan 31, 2017 02:46
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Yu-Gi-Ho! posted:That guy is pretty drat good at diagnostics, and has a lot of interesting stuff on youtube. Takes the long way around sometimes, but that's probably more because he's doing videos and taking time to explain everything. Yeah him and south main auto are my 2 current favorite YouTube time sinks. Very thorough electrical diagnostics, they both solve the hard stuff without throwing parts at it.
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Jan 31, 2017 03:25
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scuz posted:I mean it passed a compression check,... Repeat every 3 months or so. I'm sorry you own this. It is possibly the most depressing motor on earth. I had my coil go bad on mine and it acted similar; I was able to trigger this reaction actutely when I attempted to sea foam the motor. I got a tiny bit of crude on the plugs and that was the final straw for the coil that was on its last leg. It began running on <4 cylinders. Unfortunately I replaced it with a URO coil which only lasted a weak. I got another coil and then sold the car. Poo poo coil--> Weak spark --> plugs build up --> increased resistance --> too much for the coil to handling and subsequent misfiring. Anecdotal but worth checking out. ThirstyBuck fucked around with this message at 04:00 on Jan 31, 2017 |
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Jan 31, 2017 03:57
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Edit: wrong thread
MrOnBicycle fucked around with this message at 14:19 on Jan 31, 2017 |
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Jan 31, 2017 14:14
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Back when I got the car last summer first thing I did was throw an oil catch can on it since throwing oil down the intake is dumb on many fronts. However the piping supplied was too short so it was at an odd angle but it worked so whatever. I finally remembered about this so went out to get some replacement rubber pipe so it would sit correctly. Four parts stores later I was able to find the correct size and grade of hose for hot oil on a drum so I could cut the correct length of it. I ended up going to an Autozone, two Advanced Autoparts before a Pepboys had some. One of the Advance Autoparts places had trouble understanding I just wanted some hose not a specific hose for my car, going as far as to search for the year and model and say there was no oil catch pipe in the parts list. This would of course not happened if the supplier sent the right length hose to begin with and didn't believe me when I said it was too short as they claimed everything was cut on a jig to be exactly right blah blah blah. So yes a simple job turned into a journey into why doing anything to a car is like pulling teeth.
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Jan 31, 2017 14:36
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TheFonz posted:buy a new cat? Is it clogged? That can be fixed with a broom handle AND you can sweep up and sell the platinum.   I don't think the cat is clogged. Exhaust still comes out the back, that means it's okay, right? 
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Jan 31, 2017 18:19
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BigPaddy posted:Back when I got the car last summer first thing I did was throw an oil catch can on it since throwing oil down the intake is dumb on many fronts. However the piping supplied was too short so it was at an odd angle but it worked so whatever. I finally remembered about this so went out to get some replacement rubber pipe so it would sit correctly. Four parts stores later I was able to find the correct size and grade of hose for hot oil on a drum so I could cut the correct length of it. I ended up going to an Autozone, two Advanced Autoparts before a Pepboys had some. One of the Advance Autoparts places had trouble understanding I just wanted some hose not a specific hose for my car, going as far as to search for the year and model and say there was no oil catch pipe in the parts list. This would of course not happened if the supplier sent the right length hose to begin with and didn't believe me when I said it was too short as they claimed everything was cut on a jig to be exactly right blah blah blah. Try to find an independent auto parts shop - they tend to stock more generic/general use items. Autozone and Pep Boys tend to be just the most common parts. I usually don't have too many issues with my local O'Reilly Auto Parts - they have bulk stuff in the back, hose, brake tubing, fittings, etc., and the counter guys aren't idiots. It helps that I've been using them long enough that the manager recognizes me. NAPA used to be good for such things as well, but I've not used the one near me too often. They did have a nice selection, and actual catalogs, of interior trim clips when I needed some.
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Jan 31, 2017 20:46
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Removed the new intake manifold I just put on the Grand Marquis. It's cracked even though I torqued the bolts to spec and in the correct order...but I didn't give it a good look before installing, so I'm not sure if I somehow cracked it. Definitely leaked though! Sooooo now the car's out of commission for a few more days. I can change a manifold in like three hours now! Also changed the power steering fluid and topped up the others on my shitbox Corolla. Replaced the brake light. Now it will pass inspection, yaaaaay. Still needs a clutch...but that's its only major issue.
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Jan 31, 2017 23:02
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The car hasn't been driven in at least five years so I spent half the day replacing points, condenser, distributor cap, plugs, wires, coolant, oil & filter well as draining the gas tank. Spent the next half of the day diagnosing a bad mechanical fuel pump and bypassing it with cheap electric pump. At the end of the day, the motor fired up and sounded sooo nice. Almost sprained my arm patting myself on the back so hard. Decided to take it for a victory lap around the block only to find the clutch is only pushing air. I'm in a rush to get it back on the road because I wanted to drive it to a car show/swap meet this weekend and there's no way I'll be able to get a replacement master cylinder in time. Please enjoy the fruits of my hubris. '76 BMW 2002
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Feb 1, 2017 06:22
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Fixed the janky battery terminals the shithead po put in, ran wiring for the amplifier, tried to fit 6 3/4" speakers in a spot for 6 1/2" speakers (It didn't end well) and prepped the new head unit for install. Its my first time ever doing this kind of work and I'm way outside my element, but I'm not loving up too bad yet!
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Feb 1, 2017 07:31
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Broke it. Clutch no longer fully disengages. The pedal has been going further and further down with no resistance for a lot longer than I'd like to admit, and for a couple of months it's only been fully releasing if I'm standing on the pedal. Guess I need to finally figure out what's going on. I can force it into gear while stopped, but it's not happy about it. please don't be the slave cylinder, I don't feel like pulling the subframe and yanking the trans
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Feb 1, 2017 09:49
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Yu-Gi-Ho! posted:Broke it. sounds exactly like the slave cylinder (or your master is leaking too)
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Feb 1, 2017 20:34
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Nodoze posted:sounds exactly like the slave cylinder (or your master is leaking too) Flush and fill and bleed first, but, yeah, sounds like it. And gently caress any manufacturer that puts a hydraulic component inside another difficult to remove component. At least my XJ Cherokee's was external, if plastic. And only replaceable as a unit, prefilled and bled, with the master cylinder and fluid line. First time I'd ever seen that. Still working for my buddy who bought it, and as far as I know it's original. I guess the plastic is easier on the seals, and less likely to have problems with a little moisture than the traditional cast iron.
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Feb 1, 2017 21:10
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Cop Porn Popper posted:Fixed the janky battery terminals the shithead po put in, ran wiring for the amplifier, tried to fit 6 3/4" speakers in a spot for 6 1/2" speakers (It didn't end well) and prepped the new head unit for install. Its my first time ever doing this kind of work and I'm way outside my element, but I'm not loving up too bad yet! Head unit wrestled into position, amp wired in and tested to verify it works and refixed the battery terminals from my terrible crimp job before. Grabbed the biggest channel locks I had and reefed on it. It no longer wants to slide out, no matter how hard I yank on it. Next day off is running speaker wiring and mounting speakers. There is finally a light at the end of the tunnel. (Its probably a train bout to run me over). Edit: and I did test it out with the worlds shortest speaker wire. It chooches right along, but the amp needs adjustin. Elmnt80 fucked around with this message at 02:36 on Feb 2, 2017 |
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Feb 2, 2017 02:34
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Cop Porn Popper posted:Grabbed the biggest channel locks I had and reefed on it.  Get yourself one of these.
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Feb 2, 2017 02:44
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Darchangel posted:Flush and fill and bleed first, but, yeah, sounds like it. It's been a very gradual deterioration, so if it is the slave, I'm hoping I can just bleed it and get it going again for now. The master is plastic and a known weak spot, so if bleeding it doesn't fix it, that'll be my first step. Slave will be the last act of desperation.  I can still drive it, it's just difficult to get into gear from a stop, and gets a little crunchy if I don't rev match when shifting.Of course.. of all the cars they built on the delta platform, mine is a special snowflake that uses a master cylinder specific to the Ion. And the original (non-platform-shared - SC, SL, SW) Saturns also sold the master/slave/hardline as a set.
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Feb 2, 2017 06:34
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Metal Geir Skogul posted:
It wasn't a copper lug, despite my preference for using them (properly crimped) + marine terminals. There isn't enough vertical clearance for that unfortunately, it literally becomes the highest point in the car. Instead it was one of these turds: http://m.oreillyauto.com/h5/r/oap/site/c/detail/SS01/01346/N0365.oap?ck=Search_N0365_-1_4895&pt=N0365&ppt=C0005 It works well enough when you attack it with 18" long channel locks and 0 fucks given about anything else besides getting it fixed. I'd replace the whole thing with a new factory style one, but  .
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Feb 2, 2017 06:51
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Darchangel posted:Flush and fill and bleed first, but, yeah, sounds like it. I actually like the plastic ones. As you said, less corrosion andit handles the pressure fine. You can replace the cylinders and pipe individually I think... could swear rockauto has them. Some don't have bleed ports which makes things interesting.
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Feb 2, 2017 14:50
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Yu-Gi-Ho! posted:It's been a very gradual deterioration, so if it is the slave, I'm hoping I can just bleed it and get it going again for now. The master is plastic and a known weak spot, so if bleeding it doesn't fix it, that'll be my first step. Slave will be the last act of desperation. That sucks, but isn't surprising. Your clutch has probably seen triple the number of actuations compared to an average car with that mileage. Delivery duty is brutal for vehicles.
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Feb 2, 2017 14:56
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EVERYWHERE 
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 Apparently Hans thought it would be cool to just let my checkvalves and brake booster sit in a warehouse in Germany all week after telling me they would be dispatched that day. Tut tut Hans! I need to start up on fixing my recent suspected vacuum leak leading to a rough idle and pending lean codes. Turns out I need more parts anyway.  Ugh, here we go  I yanked the dodgy carbon fibre airbox/shield and maf, and then cleaned out the last of the poo poo old dryer hose that used to pretend to be a cold air intake. Next I followed all the vacuum lines I could get to without yanking the intake off, I knew some were bad but almost all the vacuum lines are hard, aged and brittle looking and then I found my crankcase breather valve is hosed (feels odd, oil cap/dipstick sucked back on while engine running), so that's probably the major cause of the vacuum leak/dodgy idle found. Also realised I hosed up and only got 3mm hose where half the repairs need 8mm. Started to rain, gave up on that- no point getting wet when I can't finish the job anyway.  Ordered more parts and I'm now working on taking apart the airbox and maf where it's warm to see what lurks within, with a view to just having one end of the airbox removed inside the engine bay to allow air to the filter easier but also shield it from the turbo heat a bit, then running some duct where the CAI used to be to provide some cold air to the general area. Not looking forward to replacing the vacuum lines (I swear they multiplied each time I looked) but they have to go.
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Feb 2, 2017 16:57
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