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Use colors to highlight your black (and shade your whites). It looks more natural and gives a better sense of place. Brown if it's supposed to be indoors or facing the ground, or blues if it's under the open sky. Green can make it look more foresty, while reds and oranges suggest fire. If you look at white or black objects in the real world, you'll see that they tend to pick up some of the color of objects around them. The other thing that helps is to have the black act as your mid-tone as well as your shadow (and with whites, midtone as well as highlight). Like, if you were going to go 20% of the model highlight, 60% midtone, and 20% shadow, you'd paint about 80% of the surface area black and then put your highlights in the remaining 20%. I like to do very light glazes to build up the highlight, and then go with the edge highlights.
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Feb 3, 2017 21:52
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Any pointers on getting this result?
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Feb 3, 2017 22:01
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Zenithal painting with an airbrush would probably work pretty well.
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Feb 3, 2017 22:12
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Electric Hobo posted:Zenithal painting with an airbrush would probably work pretty well. This. Green all over, white with a bit of green at 45 degrees, white at almost vertical. Follow up with a quick wash to get the recesses
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Feb 3, 2017 22:15
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Indolent Bastard posted:Any pointers on getting this result? Grey+white zenethal and green ghost tint.
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Feb 3, 2017 22:21
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0YYFTgeNhCg My biggest reservation is that it is only for a single small model and this looks like a load of effort for a single model. E: I wouln't do as many layers as Les does, but even three seems like alot. Thanks for the advice goons. I'll pick one and give it a go. Indolent Bastard fucked around with this message at 22:26 on Feb 3, 2017 |
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Feb 3, 2017 22:23
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I'm sure you've all heard about PETA's message to Games Workshop. It's been the talk of the mini industry the last day or so. Here's Reaper's response.
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Feb 3, 2017 23:03
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I had to look it up but drat, that's better than when they went after Obama about that fly. OTOH people wearing furs like they do in WH is entirely ahistorical.
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Feb 4, 2017 00:41
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Anybody have any picture guides or videos showing proper drybrushing and highlighting techniques? Also, how do I make streaks and splashes? I have vallejo weather and engine effects but how do I streak them or splash them to make them look proper?
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Feb 4, 2017 18:25
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Drybrushing with black on any color work to make a grimy or lived in look or like a steel look?
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Feb 4, 2017 18:28
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Phi230 posted:Drybrushing with black on any color work to make a grimy or lived in look or like a steel look? Grime tends to accumulate near the base and recesses of things rather than the tip. Not to say it can't be done, but I've never seen anyone drybrush a darker color onto a lighter one.
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Feb 4, 2017 18:41
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Phi230 posted:Also, how do I make streaks and splashes? I have vallejo weather and engine effects but how do I streak them or splash them to make them look proper?
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Feb 4, 2017 18:51
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Electric Hobo posted:I haven't used them, but Vallejo has a set of guides for using their weathering effect. They're all here http://www.acrylicosvallejo.com/en_US/weathering-effects/family/34 as step by step guides. Guess I need an airbrush
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Feb 4, 2017 18:53
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mango sentinel posted:Grime tends to accumulate near the base and recesses of things rather than the tip. Not to say it can't be done, but I've never seen anyone drybrush a darker color onto a lighter one. Well maybe I've been doing drybrushing wrong then. Is it supposed to be an even coat? I thought drybrushing was just supposed to catch raised surfaces or apply like uneven coats for effect I never learned 2 drybrush or highlight
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Feb 4, 2017 18:58
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Drybrushing is to catch raised surfaces. I've always had a hard time with wanting too much paint on my brush for drybrushing because I'm impatient. I don't know of any links to vids but if you're using powders and want streaks I think you build up the powders at the top of the part then use water to pull it down the side.
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Feb 4, 2017 19:06
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You might be better served with an uneven application of wash for grime.
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Feb 4, 2017 19:14
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Phi230 posted:Guess I need an airbrush Im actually just gonna try blowing on my brush manually will post results
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Feb 4, 2017 19:20
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If you want grime and recessed filth you really just need to take a very thinned dirty color of the same type (acrylic/enamel/lacquer), dab an area with an overloaded brush, and let gravity do the rest. If the paints are the same the thinned color will end up staining wherever it travels even if excess gets wiped/absorbed off.
Neurolimal fucked around with this message at 20:02 on Feb 4, 2017 |
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Feb 4, 2017 19:46
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mango sentinel posted:Not to say it can't be done, but I've never seen anyone drybrush a darker color onto a lighter one.
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Feb 4, 2017 19:58
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 Rush job to experiment with pre-heresy colors for Space Wolves - is it just me or did I inadvertently paint a wehrmacht space marine :s
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Feb 4, 2017 21:43
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Ayn Marx posted:
That's really really clean, nice work.
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Feb 4, 2017 21:47
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Phi230 posted:Well maybe I've been doing drybrushing wrong then. Is it supposed to be an even coat? I thought drybrushing was just supposed to catch raised surfaces or apply like uneven coats for effect Drybrushing does well at doing wear effects - things one exposed edges tend to wear quickly, so drybrushing base colour over the paint colour (i.e. metallic paint on a surface that's supposed to be painted metal) works to simulate wear. But grime and rust and corrosion and grossness tend to accumulate in recesses and dips, so washes are your friend there. Typically movie propmakers will do a thick wash then wipe off the raised surfaces, but that;s tough to do at mini scale. You can also do a nice job of weathering with coloured pencils if you're careful.
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Feb 4, 2017 21:49
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TTerrible posted:That's really really clean, nice work. Thanks! I'm considering painting the whole 40k army with these colors, I don't like the modern scheme that much...
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Feb 4, 2017 21:53
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thespaceinvader posted:Drybrushing does well at doing wear effects - things one exposed edges tend to wear quickly, so drybrushing base colour over the paint colour (i.e. metallic paint on a surface that's supposed to be painted metal) works to simulate wear. The painting guide I am using says to basecoat + wash + then drybrush the flat surfaces again, and then drybrush with a lighter mix of the basecoat color is this the type of thing? Or lets say I use Castellan Green (Generic dark green) as a basecoat. I wash, then drybrush the flat spaces and edges? Another question. When painting 15mm minis, how do I affix them to the popsicle stick for painting? Like just use PVA glue or tape?
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Feb 4, 2017 21:54
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You're trying to weather 15mm minis? You're a braver man than I...
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Feb 4, 2017 22:28
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Phi230 posted:Another question. When painting 15mm minis, how do I affix them to the popsicle stick for painting? Like just use PVA glue or tape?  Sticking them to something you grab with your whole hand means you're using your wrist to stabilize instead of your fingers and I find it a good bit easier to manage, personally.
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Feb 4, 2017 22:40
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Interesting. That should apply to 28mm just as well.
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Feb 4, 2017 23:05
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Cross Post. I painted!DiHK posted:I managed to paint a significant number of uniformed dudes for the first time in about a decade. Too bad I am not at all happy with them. I suffered from bad mold/flash and fragile bayonets and by the time I got around to painting I just wanted to get them done and move on. I think I'll avoid metal mini's armed with muskets & bayonets in the future.
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Feb 4, 2017 23:08
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Ayn Marx posted:
Nah dude that grey isn't the right shade for German tanks in July of 1941. 
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Feb 5, 2017 00:41
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thespaceinvader posted:You're trying to weather 15mm minis? Vehicles mostly.
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Feb 5, 2017 00:50
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My favorite things to sticky-tack minis to are those rectangular containers that chessex dice come in. They're big enough that you grab them with most of your hand. They also have the added benefit that you can stick the mini to the lid and flip the lid around to protect the mini inside the case if you need to be mobile.
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Feb 5, 2017 00:59
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Ayn Marx posted:
I want to paint as clean as you do when you "rush" stuff.
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Feb 5, 2017 01:25
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So apparently badger's 10' hose includes a water trap. But nowhere does it show that on the Amazon picture or description. So now I have this extra water trap that's not worth the hassle of returning to Amazon and I might just hook it up to the compressor anyway for a comically long triple water trapped hose. The extra water trap is huge, probably made for paint sprayers, but still fits the 1/4 outlet. 
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Feb 5, 2017 04:03
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I got the same hose, and was surprised as well. but luckily I needed a second water trap. The worst thing about doing power weapons. Anyone have any cool other ideas for power weapons? It looks good on the claws but I think it's getting a little outdated for the swords anyway. It takes forever too.
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Feb 5, 2017 08:11
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Floppychop posted:My favorite things to sticky-tack minis to are those rectangular containers that chessex dice come in. They're big enough that you grab them with most of your hand. This is feeling like a blow my mind life hack. 
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Feb 5, 2017 09:56
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MasterSlowPoke posted:I got the same hose, and was surprised as well. but luckily I needed a second water trap. How about an iron sword with neon green blood? Would compliment both the dusty orange and ice blue claws well IMO.
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Feb 5, 2017 15:12
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MasterSlowPoke posted:I got the same hose, and was surprised as well. but luckily I needed a second water trap. The red on that terminator is really nice. What legion? BA?
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Feb 5, 2017 16:08
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Painted up this fat lad over the weekend, I'm usually not one to boast but I'm pretty proud of how it turned out. Just need to figure out what scenic base to do for him!
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Feb 5, 2017 18:14
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You should be proud - he turned out revoltingly awesome!
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Feb 5, 2017 18:33
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My only complaint with that model is that I feel like more than the guts should be glossy. Good job!
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Feb 5, 2017 18:36
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