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Deteriorata posted:Well, copper straps wouldn't corrode (at least not very fast), so they were probably iron to begin with. SS is probably fine. The difference in resistivity is unimportant. The originals are braided copper and corroded into nothing but green stubs where they're bolted to the engine and frame. They're not super old or anything either as the car only has 75k miles on it.
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Feb 3, 2017 17:46
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Can rod knocks be present when the engine is cold and go away as it warms up?
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Feb 3, 2017 17:59
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dyne posted:The originals are braided copper and corroded into nothing but green stubs where they're bolted to the engine and frame. They're not super old or anything either as the car only has 75k miles on it. Well, in doing some research I see that MgCl2 actually is fairly corrosive of copper in the presence of oxygen, so I was wrong about that much. If they were braided copper to begin with, replace them with the same and you're good for another 75k miles, I guess - more if you stay away from road salt.
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Feb 3, 2017 18:23
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scuz posted:Can rod knocks be present when the engine is cold and go away as it warms up? You're most likely hearing piston slap, not rod knock.
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Feb 3, 2017 18:32
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Motronic posted:You're most likely hearing piston slap, not rod knock.
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Feb 3, 2017 19:08
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Calling body guys! best off the shelf remedies for light scratches? Is it all snake oil? Just got some mothers scratch remover doesn't seam to be working
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Feb 3, 2017 20:50
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Christobevii3 posted:What engine and transmission you trying to mate? Jaguar AJ30 V6 to a RX8 6-speed manual.The only compatible bolt patterns I can find is from the Ford Mondeo ST24 or ST200, both have the wrong size ring gear, and I can't find a clutch disc that fits those dimensions. Jag flywheel has 8-bolt, PCD 78mm, Diameter 11mm, outside diameter of ring gear is 30, with 117 teeth. Rx8 flywheel has 1-bolt in the centre. 320mm diameter, 125 teeth ring gear. Transmission has a 23-spline input, 25.4mm diameter.
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Feb 3, 2017 23:58
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Shopping for a used car on craigslist is depressing AF. Is there anywhere else I can look for used cars? Just looking for something under 5k, preferablly somethign like a toyota corolla/matrix, scion tc, etc.
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Feb 4, 2017 03:05
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EAB posted:Shopping for a used car on craigslist is depressing AF. Is there anywhere else I can look for used cars? Just looking for something under 5k, preferablly somethign like a toyota corolla/matrix, scion tc, etc.
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Feb 4, 2017 03:07
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EAB posted:Shopping for a used car on craigslist is depressing AF. Is there anywhere else I can look for used cars? Just looking for something under 5k, preferablly somethign like a toyota corolla/matrix, scion tc, etc. On the same budget as you I recently tried Autotrader, my local newspaper and randomly stopping in to used car lots near me to browse but ultimately ended up finding my car on Craigslist. Good luck.
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Feb 4, 2017 03:13
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EAB posted:Shopping for a used car on craigslist is depressing AF. Is there anywhere else I can look for used cars? Just looking for something under 5k, preferablly somethign like a toyota corolla/matrix, scion tc, etc. Have you expanded your search to other nearby areas? Markets differ and there might be something worth checking out an hour or two down the road (pending a friend or someone to give you a lift, of course). There never seem to be a lack of corollas/civics/etc near me. Try searching for all the models you can think of to be interested in. Car and Driver or such always helps remind me of some forgotten model I forgot to consider.
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Feb 4, 2017 03:39
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EAB posted:Shopping for a used car on craigslist is depressing AF. Is there anywhere else I can look for used cars? Just looking for something under 5k, preferablly somethign like a toyota corolla/matrix, scion tc, etc.
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Feb 4, 2017 05:56
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When am I supposed to replace my cam belt on a KIA Forte 2011 with the 2.0? The KIA forums are trash and there's a lot of conflicting information about belts vs. chains and timing vs. cam. Manual says that "drive belts" need to be inspected for tension, but that's about it. Maybe mine has a chain?
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Feb 4, 2017 17:32
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Does this belt need to be replaced? 89 f150 5.0 v8. http://i.imgur.com/Zjv2Fdf.jpg Edit nvm it is straight up torn... Lol. I think it's also responsible for the tapping noise I've been hearing Razzled fucked around with this message at 19:20 on Feb 4, 2017 |
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Feb 4, 2017 19:03
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Has anyone here ever had issues with the Blend door actuator on chevy impalas? My 2007 LTZ was clicking on the passenger side really bad when we open the door or unlock it with the key fob. I opened the glovebox and lowered it to watch it from the inside and it seems like the vibration is coming from the far right one (there are only three of these right?) I need some help on how to get it out because most of the YouTube videos I've seen have been a bit hard to clarify what's going on. Any help would be appreciated because the repair place wanted to do upwards of 600-900 depending on where I went... the part itself was only 20 and considering we just had a baby we really can't afford to drop that much.
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Feb 4, 2017 21:20
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scuz posted:Oh, well that's not as bad I guess. How can I tell for sure? I have plans to re-ring the pistons at some point. If you're going to re-ring them you'll be able to tell by measuring the skirts when you have them out (they are compressed, allowing the pistons to slap around until they warm up and expand). Ford modular motor?
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Feb 5, 2017 15:46
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Gonna bet on it being his VW 2.0 with oil consumption issues.
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Feb 5, 2017 19:29
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So this morning my Miata's battery was flat - central locking barely worked, the dash lights are very dim and it wouldn't crank of course. It was fine when I parked it on Friday and there were no signs of a dead alternator or anything else. I'm parked on a hill so I'll try to roll-start and if that doesn't work, I'll get a charger and try that. However, what the hell could've caused it to go flat? The headlights were off and the interior light was in the auto position (with the doors clearly well shut) so a pretty decent draw must've been coming from somewhere. What are some typical things to check in a case like this?
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Feb 6, 2017 11:00
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mobby_6kl posted:So this morning my Miata's battery was flat - central locking barely worked, the dash lights are very dim and it wouldn't crank of course. It was fine when I parked it on Friday and there were no signs of a dead alternator or anything else. Was the battery nice and charged when you left it? (i.e have you been doing decent length runs?) First and easiest test is to get the battery tested at Autozone
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Feb 6, 2017 11:10
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First thing I'd check, aside from anything left on, is... how old is the battery? Is the battery bulging at all? Second thing I'd check - after verifying the battery is good (by having a parts store put it on their bench tester) - is check any aftermarket components. Radio and amplifiers in particular, to make sure they're not staying on.
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Feb 6, 2017 12:03
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Yeah I drove 500km straight on Friday before leaving it for the weekend, so I think it was charged  We don't have autozone here so I just got back and had a go at it with a multimeter: 8V now and about 4V while it was still hooked up. Is that even salvageable at this point? I know LiPos are hosed if they go too low, though I've recharged some of them successfully in practice. Also some rear end in a top hat parked below me so I can't even roll downhill to try that  E: The battery is probably about 3 years old, I replaced it myself with a new Varta but don't remember the exact date. It looks fine. The only non-stock thing is an amp I put instead of the radio. It's hooked up to switched power and I never had issues even when leaving the car for a month-long vacation, but it wouldn't hurt disconnecting it. mobby_6kl fucked around with this message at 12:37 on Feb 6, 2017 |
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Feb 6, 2017 12:14
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Can u but a trickle charger in it?
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Feb 6, 2017 12:42
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What?? I found a small parts store within walking distance so I'll try to carry it there. They have a tester and if that fails I could just get a replacement.
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Feb 6, 2017 13:07
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mobby_6kl posted:Yeah I drove 500km straight on Friday before leaving it for the weekend, so I think it was charged It's possible the battery was fine but the alternator/regulator weren't charging it properly, draining it slowly as you drove. When you get the car started, double check that it actually charges. mobby_6kl posted:8V now and about 4V while it was still hooked up. Is that even salvageable at this point? Most likely, unless it has been really cold. Discharged batteries can freeze, and that usually kills them. Though as long as there is some voltage left it still has a pretty low freezing point. While repeated deep discharges aren't good for the battery, doing it just a couple of times usually doesn't do much damage (unless it's a crap battery to start with). If you put a charger on it, that is sometimes a problem with these new fancy smart chargers. Unless the battery has some kind of initial voltage they often refuse to deal with them, but it's fine once it decides to get going. 4-8V might be enough though.
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Feb 6, 2017 13:07
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4-8v sounds like one or more shorted cells, really. Even a dead battery is above 10.
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Feb 6, 2017 13:24
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I've never been able to save a battery under 10v.
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Feb 6, 2017 17:10
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Motronic posted:If you're going to re-ring them you'll be able to tell by measuring the skirts when you have them out (they are compressed, allowing the pistons to slap around until they warm up and expand). Yu-Gi-Ho! posted:Gonna bet on it being his VW 2.0 with oil consumption issues.
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Feb 6, 2017 17:25
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Godholio posted:I've never been able to save a battery under 10v.
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Feb 6, 2017 18:35
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mobby_6kl posted:Well I don't know if it's completely saved but the dude left it charging and by the end of the day it was at 12.9v and successfully started the car. Once running, I measured ~14v across the terminals and was able to restart twice more after refueling and some shopping. So maybe it's not at full capacity but works well enough for now. Thanks everyone for the help! Neither of those tests actually test whether the battery is good: you need to do a load test. I'd still get it properly tested: if it let you down once, it may do it again and in the worst possible time/place. I'd be surprised if you can't find a garage that would do it for a nice smile.
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Feb 6, 2017 18:50
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mobby_6kl posted:Well I don't know if it's completely saved but the dude left it charging and by the end of the day it was at 12.9v and successfully started the car. Once running, I measured ~14v across the terminals and was able to restart twice more after refueling and some shopping. So maybe it's not at full capacity but works well enough for now. Thanks everyone for the help! I would only trust that battery to get you to an auto parts store, where you will buy a replacement.
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Feb 6, 2017 19:02
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I'm going to be parking a trailer on dirt/mud. I was thinking about ripping some plywood and putting that under the wheels and jacks to keep them from sinking. I will also have to service the brakes and bearings. Should that be stable enough to work with? Is there a better idea I'm overlooking?
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Feb 6, 2017 19:05
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Boys who love boys
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EightBit posted:I would only trust that battery to get you to an auto parts store, where you will buy a replacement.
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Feb 6, 2017 19:14
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mobby_6kl posted:We don't have autozone here so I just got back and had a go at it with a multimeter: 8V now and about 4V while it was still hooked up. If that battery was actually as low as four volts you should replace it ASAP. Nthing the sentiment that it's a matter of when, not if, it leaves you stranded again and if you let it go long enough it may take your alternator with it - which will be working double or triple its usual load to keep the charging system at 13.8+ volts.
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Feb 6, 2017 19:19
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EightBit posted:I would only trust that battery to get you to an auto parts store, where you will buy a replacement. Think of that battery as Internet Explorer.
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Feb 6, 2017 21:05
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Godholio posted:I've never been able to save a battery under 10v. I left my car untouched (had a dead motor) for three years, then when I swapped the motor I tested the battery. 5V. I charged it for a couple days, then started driving it. That was 4 years ago, and it's still going strong 
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Feb 6, 2017 23:55
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Tunicate posted:Think of that battery as Internet Explorer. Alternatively, a first wife.
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Feb 7, 2017 04:57
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IOwnCalculus posted:Seems legit to me, but three years is a long lifespan for any battery here in AZ. I replaced the one in my 2013 CR-V in the summer of 2015, and I won't be surprised if I have to replace it again this summer. I jinxed myself. Turns out I replaced that OE battery in March of 2015, so not quite two years old. That battery died this morning. It was the strangest, most mild failure mode too. Still at 12.3V at rest, but fell to 4V while cranking. It had enough to get the engine around once but not enough to fire. At least Costco is stupid easy to deal with, and they reset the warranty term on the replacement for a fresh three years. I might have to keep the Honda long term to see if I can beat the Firestone Forever record I have on the C10.
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Feb 7, 2017 05:30
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I thought I remembered reading something about JCP/Firestone doing buyouts on the lifetimes now? Or something about having to buy the new battery and get reimbursed?
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Feb 7, 2017 06:44
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I moved to a new state about 4 months ago. Right before I left, I sold my car to someone (an ex-coworker who sent me 2 payments spaced about a month apart). I signed the title etc. and he promised to go file the paperwork. Everything I had read online re: my state's procedures lead me to believe that things were kosher and that it was his responsibility from that point on. Fast forward to now and I have hounded him a fair amount about it, but he still has not gotten it done -- and I'm receiving email/letters about reregistring my car and stuff like that. I don't even think he has put new plates on the car (and I'm pretty sure I threw the old ones out). So this dude is driving around in my old car, with no plates, over 2,000 miles away and I have no clue if I am liable or not. I filed a notice of transfer online with my state's DMV and it didn't seem to do anything. Anyone have any advice? yes, I do feel dumb, thanks for asking.
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Feb 7, 2017 07:23
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Not getting much love in the genchat thread, so trying here:bolind posted:Does anyone know the torque specs for a front brake job on a first gen Hyundai i20? Caliper-to-bracket-bolts and bracket-to-knuckle-bolts.
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Feb 7, 2017 13:42
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