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Anyone have experience with Wyeast 2565? I brewed a Kolsch about two weeks ago and I'm pretty sure I'm at FG (gravity readings have been consistent at 1.009 over the past few days), but the krausen is still present. I've seen from some online searches that this is normal, but I'm feeling fidgety and want to rack it to a keg and lager it at 40 F. Thoughts? Should I be okay?
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Feb 3, 2017 18:52
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If your gravity has been the same over multiple readings, the rest doesn't matter.
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Feb 3, 2017 18:56
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Ghostnuke posted:If your gravity has been the same over multiple readings, the rest doesn't matter. Good to know, thanks. I guess I'm just worried about interfering with the "cleanup" functions of yeast. Does that not matter?
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Feb 3, 2017 19:01
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illcendiary posted:Good to know, thanks. I guess I'm just worried about interfering with the "cleanup" functions of yeast. Does that not matter? If your gravity samples taste and smell good, there's nothing to worry about there. You might get a little prettier beer by cold-crashing or otherwise allowing the foam to settle, but that will happen with time whether you do it in the fermenter or the package.
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Feb 3, 2017 19:06
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Der Penguingott posted:I think I have some new favorite dregs. Where are they from? I'm stepping up some Jester King dregs now to make my first ever farmhouse. The smell coming off of the starter is intriguing.
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Feb 3, 2017 20:27
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LaserWash posted:Where are they from? I'm stepping up some Jester King dregs now to make my first ever farmhouse. The smell coming off of the starter is intriguing. BFM √225 saison. http://www.brasseriebfm.ch/en/our-beers/la-saison It is a saison partially aged in lambic barrels. It is very very good and not super hard to find. Binnys by me always has some and it sits on the shelf a while so the bottles frequently have some nice aged on them. It is like $8 for 375ml swing top, which is like 25$ less than the lambic that the barrels come from...
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Feb 3, 2017 21:28
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Der Penguingott posted:BFM √225 saison. I effing love that beer. Have you done your own batch(s) with it already?
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Feb 3, 2017 21:35
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ChiTownEddie posted:I effing love that beer. Have you done your own batch(s) with it already? Yep, my saison is going into a keg whenever I get around to it. Probably tonight or tomorrow. It is totally ready only 7mo or so out. Need to make more because it's only 5 gallons and that is gonna not last.
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Feb 3, 2017 22:10
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Der Penguingott posted:Yep, my saison is going into a keg whenever I get around to it. Probably tonight or tomorrow. It is totally ready only 7mo or so out. I'm only just about to start mixing in the mixed fermentations into my brewing schedule. I think I finally have enough beer in my cellar to hold me over between sessions. I'm going to try out OYL-217 C2C American Farmhouse first, and then I'm going to use those bugs that you sent with the secret santa this year. I still have another lager, two batches of Scotch Ale, and probably a Standard Bitter or APA to mix in there too. I'm buying a table saw and jigsaw and building large shelves, carboy carriers, and bottle crates. It's going to be a crafty year, both in my cellar and the rest of the house, so why not just go the whole way?
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Feb 3, 2017 23:32
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Two unfortunate milestones recently: dropped by first hydrometer (RIP lil buddy) and had my first bottle bomb. Bottle bomb (wheat saison) went off at around 5am on a weekend when I had to be up at 7am anyways (took the better part of 45 minutes to clean everything up, never got back to sleep  ). I had labeled those particular bottles as an experiment, it looks like the one that exploded was the dregs of the bottling bucket... would that have put it at increased risk of overcarbing if it hadn't been mixed well? I went a bit higher on carbonation with this batch than I intended to due to not racking the last few litres to avoid sediment (was a lot more flocculant than other beers I've done), however the several other bottles of it I've had so far have been a little undercarbed if anything. It took two adjacent bottles with it, but could have been worse. Luckily the bottle that blew was in the corner of the crate, with one side against a stainless steel growler. I think I may start sanitising my bottle caps for good measure now. --- My LHBS finally restocked on autosiphons, and I've just managed to scoop up 4x 5L glass demijons on Gumtree for $5 each  Looking forward to doing some more interesting experimentation than my "X drops of ____ extract at bottling" into individual bottles. At the moment I have two projects in mind:1) I was thinking one of them would be perfect for having a crack at a small batch of JAO mead, but given that the Fleishmann's yeast isn't available in Australia, thought I'd try a proper brewing yeast. Assuming I can't get the mead yeast at my LHBS (likely), what would be my next bet? I am going to use cheaper honey for this one, but would like to try leatherwood ($$$, local stuff with a very distinctive taste) if it turns out well. 2) My "house" beer is just a modified Cooper's Pale Ale kit , basically adding 25g of Cascade and Amarillo hop tea to the kit, and doing 19L instead of 21 since I found 21L too watery. In the past I've reconstituting the CPA yeast from bottles, which is supposed to throw off (in this case desirable) banana-y esters at the 24C suggested ferment temp. I grabbed a Canadian Ale Yeast at LHBS for a third, wildcard comparison. Ethics_Gradient fucked around with this message at 22:51 on Feb 4, 2017 |
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Feb 4, 2017 22:48
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First brew day on the new natural gas brew rig trip report: Went fine. I did have one wiring issue - the second pump has the plug wired backward (a manufacturing defect, not my screwup), so the black wire is the neutral leg, not hot. As soon as I plug it in, it trips the GFCI outlet I use in the brew area, so I ended up limping along with only one pump. I'll have to go ahead and rewire that second pump before the next brew day. But really, that's sort of an expected level of trouble on the shakedown run. No big deal, and I ended up with wort in the fermenter anyway. The rig as it is currently set up seems to heat a trifle more slowly than the old propane rig, but not differently enough to cause any issues. I got started a little earlier than usual, but I also finished a little ahead of schedule, so I'm not griping. I may eventually replumb some restrictive bits to free up the gas flow some, but it's kind of a low priority.
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Feb 5, 2017 00:58
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So I'm thinking about my next brew and I think I want to do something with cherries that is very cherry-forward. Tart, lots of flavor. Basically I want to bury my sadness about not having the real estate for a true sour beer with cherries and beer. What makes sense? I see some recipes for Cherry Pale Ales which might fit the bill. I'll be doing all-grain and prefer real cherries to extract but I'm not caught up on that if there's really no difference. Looking around it sounds like there is though.
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Feb 5, 2017 01:18
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Fork of Unknown Origins posted:So I'm thinking about my next brew and I think I want to do something with cherries that is very cherry-forward. Tart, lots of flavor. Basically I want to bury my sadness about not having the real estate for a true sour beer with cherries and beer. What makes sense? I see some recipes for Cherry Pale Ales which might fit the bill. I'll be doing all-grain and prefer real cherries to extract but I'm not caught up on that if there's really no difference. Looking around it sounds like there is though. If you really want the cherry to shine though, keep the base beer fairly unobtrusive, ie. A simple non hoppy wheat beer. Unless you want to spent 40$ on two three lb cans of tart cherry puree, your best bet is tart cherry concentrate. Steer clear of a flavor extract. Or live in Washington state in cherry season. Whole fruit is not going to be as good unless you have access to really good cherries.
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Feb 5, 2017 02:03
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Der Penguingott posted:Or live in Washington state in cherry season. Or Door County, Wisconsin.
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Feb 5, 2017 02:50
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Jo3sh posted:Or Door County, Wisconsin. Or Western Michigan. Or Virginia and Maryland. There are a bunch of places that have great cherries. Cherries are great to buy during harvest and then freeze for the next year's beer.
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Feb 5, 2017 03:13
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Jhet posted:There are a bunch of places that have great cherries. Cherries are great to buy during harvest and then freeze for the next year's beer. Last summer I was picking cherries and kept like 5kg of rejects one day (too small/no stem), I froze 'em and used them in a cherry wheat beer a few months later. Thing was great and a hit with non-beer drinkers, I went a bit heavy on the carbonation so it was almost like champagne. Can't remember if I dunked them in sanitiser or not, but I definitely didn't pasteurise them and everything was fine.
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Feb 5, 2017 03:31
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Jhet posted:There are a bunch of places that have great cherries. There's a lot to love about Southern California, but the availability of local fruit (apart from citrus and avocados) is not one of the strong points.
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Feb 5, 2017 03:47
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Look for Montmorency cherry concentrate. I used 16oz in my dark saison and it came out great.
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Feb 5, 2017 03:57
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Learned a new lesson today: Make Cheat Sheets In the throes of brewing, I thought I was doing everything before I realized I forgot my Mash pH Acid addition and First Wort Hops. Despite knowing wtf I'm doing, I still forget to do some of the extraneous things that make beer better. Hubris, and such. Either way, I had a lot of success with my weird Midwest IPA Grainbill experiment, with 21% grist of Corn Masa. Its smelled like Tortillas, but I got a really good efficiency, even skipping a sparge, hit my volumes, and overshot my OG calculation (I calculated ~80% planning no sparge, but his hitting almost 87%)
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Feb 5, 2017 04:17
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Probably my dumbest brewing mistake. Yesterday I decided to turn a saison that's been a total pain in the rear end for me (I used 3724 because my LHBS didn't have 3711...) into a blueberry saison. I put a couple pounds of Alaskan blueberries that I spent hours picking into a glass carboy and poured half a gallon of boiling sugar water on top to sterilize. I then thought that it's probably too hot to rack the beer onto without killing/stressing a lot of the yeast, so I had the brilliant idea of taking the carboy and putting it in the -10* F snowbank out side. Predictably when I did the bottom immediately exploded and I lost the $60 carboy and all of the contents. Don't brew while drunk. Also another reason glass carboys are bad. I think all my future purchases will be BB.
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Feb 5, 2017 09:11
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arcticthunder posted:Probably my dumbest brewing mistake. Yesterday I decided to turn a saison that's been a total pain in the rear end for me (I used 3724 because my LHBS didn't have 3711...) into a blueberry saison. I put a couple pounds of Alaskan blueberries that I spent hours picking into a glass carboy and poured half a gallon of boiling sugar water on top to sterilize. I then thought that it's probably too hot to rack the beer onto without killing/stressing a lot of the yeast, so I had the brilliant idea of taking the carboy and putting it in the -10* F snowbank out side. Predictably when I did the bottom immediately exploded and I lost the $60 carboy and all of the contents. Next time, just use some sodium metabisulfite or some potassium metabisulfite in the crushed blueberry must and let it off gas for 24 hours. Your carboy was pretty much screwed the moment you dumped boiling water into it. The depressing thing is that it wouldn't sufficiently sanitize the blueberries like you're hoping either.
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Feb 5, 2017 17:32
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arcticthunder posted:Don't brew while drunk. Also another reason glass carboys are bad. I think all my future purchases will be BB. Plastic wouldn't have survived that abuse either.
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Feb 5, 2017 17:43
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Gotta say, I'm a little giddy over today's brew. I'm doing my first ever farmhouse/saison on some Jester King Dregs that I collected off a bottle of La Vie En Rose last year. I've been trying to plan a farmhouse for at least a year now, but always get turned back by trying to create "the perfect" farmhouse. I settled on going simple'ish being inspired by the "Bill's Farmhouse Ale" recipe that the AHA has listed as one of their highlighted recipes. code: Also, moving my last summer's planned Märzen, that ended up being brewed this January :-( into secondary for some extra time in the carboy, lagering. A little excited about that too, since it's the first lager I've made since moving in August. Update: This is also the first time I'm working with RO water that I treat with brewing salts, chemicals, and lactic acid to adjust PH using BrunWater.  Water chemistry is a thing! I ALWAYS get 70% efficiency on my system, this time around I'm getting 75%.
LaserWash fucked around with this message at 22:14 on Feb 5, 2017 |
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Feb 5, 2017 20:32
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Yikes. Bottling my sour quad today. My house sour culture took it from 1.092 to 1.002. I guess I'm safe from bottle bombs...
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Feb 5, 2017 22:21
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robotsinmyhead posted:I had one: We brewed this yesterday. I'll check in next Saturday to say how it was.
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Feb 6, 2017 05:44
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Jhet posted:Next time, just use some sodium metabisulfite or some potassium metabisulfite in the crushed blueberry must and let it off gas for 24 hours. Your carboy was pretty much screwed the moment you dumped boiling water into it. The depressing thing is that it wouldn't sufficiently sanitize the blueberries like you're hoping either. Heating fruit above 165 for a few minutes should kill nearly everything from what I've read. I didn't want to boil it because at higher temperatures for extended time you get pectin and tannins and other stuff you don't want. And yeah campden tablets would have been ideal but I didn't have any at the time. Plus I was trying to up the ABV/ get the yeast going again with sugar anyway. Are you really not supposed to put boiling water in glass carboys at all? That's how I've cleaned mine literally every time and never had an issue.
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Feb 6, 2017 07:57
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Der Penguingott posted:BFM √225 saison. Oh great, this brewery is like 1 hour from me, I'll give it a try one of these days.
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Feb 6, 2017 09:42
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arcticthunder posted:Heating fruit above 165 for a few minutes should kill nearly everything from what I've read. I didn't want to boil it because at higher temperatures for extended time you get pectin and tannins and other stuff you don't want. And yeah campden tablets would have been ideal but I didn't have any at the time. Plus I was trying to up the ABV/ get the yeast going again with sugar anyway. It isn't tempered glass, and due to the thickness of it, the glass can easily hit shock point with boiling water. Use hot water to clean and you should be fine. Thermal shock is really a thing. Even Pyrex measuring cups can succumb to it. You can also get a pound of sodium or potassium metabisulfite for pretty cheap. I keep it on hand in a mason jar for killing things and removing chorine from water.
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Feb 6, 2017 15:28
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Has anyone successfully frozen fresh wort to use for starters? I'm making a gallon today for starter/bug feeding use this week on my stovetop and the thought crossed my mind. It might be easier to can it in mason jars and then just pop one when I need it, but there's no start up cost for freezing it in sanitized plastic soda bottles and I could probably just refill them after brewing by rinsing my grain again on most brew days. Honestly, I don't know why I hadn't thought of this before. It's one more thing to do while brewing, but can be accomplished while the boil is going so it's not really a time problem.
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Feb 7, 2017 00:03
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I boil dme starter wort, sanitize a jar, and keep the wort in the fridge. It lasts for as long as I've tried (3 months +). One tip though, it will go bad if you leave it on the countertop for more than 2-3 days.
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Feb 7, 2017 00:18
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Unless you are pressure canning, there is a risk of botulism. If you pressure can, it is shelf stable and sterile at room temp. I picked up a cheap presto pressure canner for the task. You can do seven of the big Mason jars at a time in it. It is also good for chili.
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Feb 7, 2017 02:57
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LaserWash posted:I boil dme starter wort, sanitize a jar, and keep the wort in the fridge. It lasts for as long as I've tried (3 months +). One tip though, it will go bad if you leave it on the countertop for more than 2-3 days. It definitely would go rancid. I've been doing DME, but I guess I'm just trying to stop the cycle of "Oh crap, out of DME, order it" -> "Starters!" -> "Need to buy more next time I order stuff" -> Forget to buy more. -> Repeat at Step 1.
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Feb 7, 2017 03:05
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Jhet posted:It definitely would go rancid. I've been doing DME, but I guess I'm just trying to stop the cycle of "Oh crap, out of DME, order it" -> "Starters!" -> "Need to buy more next time I order stuff" -> Forget to buy more. -> Repeat at Step 1.
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Feb 7, 2017 05:56
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Jhet posted:You may have underpitched. It depends on how you made the starter. It won't negatively affect Belgian yeast, and it might actually positively affect it. They produce more esters when stressed which tends to be a good thing. tbh i underpitch anything I want ester production in by around 10-15% to add a little stress in there. Usually, but when your yeast goes from 6 smack packs to a 2l starter to a 5l starter to 50l of dubbel to 50l of quad then another 50l of quad it becomes incredibly hard to underpitch! Fork of Unknown Origins posted:I have those but I'm loathe to open up the fermenter. I may do it anyway though just to see. If I had the same OG rating today and Sunday would that mean I was clear to bottle Sunday? Which yeast? I've had some Belgian strains slow to finish. Trappist high gravity caught me off guard in our first batch of quad for the barrel, it hadn't quite finished but was just laying dormant for a few days and then we bottled it. Thankfully it must have only had another 2-3 points to go but it was definitely on the higher side of desirable carbonation levels!! Ethics_Gradient posted:My LHBS finally restocked on autosiphons, and I've just managed to scoop up 4x 5L glass demijons on Gumtree for $5 each If you can't get a champagne yeast my lhbs has some, toowoomba home brewers. I have a pack sitting around for gently caress knows what reason, I picked it up at one point for something and forgot what. Maybe a super dry apple cider? But I reckon a champagne yeast would go well, higher alcohol tolerance and fairly neutral if somewhat fruity esters would suit a mead. arcticthunder posted:Don't brew while drunk. Also another reason glass carboys are bad. I think all my future purchases will be BB. Or stainless  I'm looking at a single brewmaster chronical for only doing lagers in, probably double batches, and also a couple stainless brew bucket conicals for non-bugged stuff. On the other side of the pond, most of my poo poo has arrived for my eccentric beekeeper bulldog (pressurised racking siphon), so 40-odd litres of dangerously drinkable barrel aged quad is about to get split into two cornies split between myself and my brewing partner. Oh boy oh boy! About 1/2 the keg will go into bottles for me, I have four from the first bottling run in the fridge already. Super pumped to get it moving! Also had my order of oak spirals show up, the plan is to do a lambic on mild toast, maybe an old ale on dark toast, some sort of brown on medium, a RIS on charred and as for medium plus, maybe a Flanders brown. Pretty excited tbh
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Feb 7, 2017 13:26
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I'm looking to pick up a stir-plate and flask to start making proper starters, anyone have one they can recommend? No looking to spend too much, but I'd rather buy something that'll last over one that will break in a year.
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Feb 7, 2017 16:59
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Toebone posted:I'm looking to pick up a stir-plate and flask to start making proper starters, anyone have one they can recommend? No looking to spend too much, but I'd rather buy something that'll last over one that will break in a year. You can find myriad flasks on Amazon, I'd just suggest one with a flat bottom rather than slight concave; I've read (and my experience seems to corroborate) that actually flat ones work better with a stir plate.
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Feb 7, 2017 18:09
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Stir plates are super easy and cheap to build. I've been using my lame one for several years now without issues. If you can scrounge up a computer fan, an old USB charger, and a cigar box, you're halfway there. Get some magnets from Home Depot or even scavenge them from a dead hard drive for the rest. If you have a robust scrap pile, you can build one for next to nothing.
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Feb 7, 2017 18:17
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It's been a while since I've used a blowoff tube but this last batch went a bit high on volume so I was worried about headspace. Even with the low-ish 1.054 OG, my MWIPA was bubbling so hard it scared the cat and I could hear it from downstairs. I was actually a bit worried because the Pure Pitch package said no starter needed up to 1.048 and I went above that. 36 hours of lag time, then it took off.
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Feb 7, 2017 18:55
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robotsinmyhead posted:It's been a while since I've used a blowoff tube but this last batch went a bit high on volume so I was worried about headspace. Even with the low-ish 1.054 OG, my MWIPA was bubbling so hard it scared the cat and I could hear it from downstairs. I honestly can't remember the last time I pitched straight from the package, but I've never had quick starts when it comes from the package. I did overpitch on the ESB that I made in January with Wyeast 1968 ESB. It worked hard, but it would need to be right up near the lid to need a blow off. On the other hand, everytime I use 1084 Irish Ale I need a blow off tube. Doesn't matter if the beer is a small stout or a 8.5% ABV+, it needs a blow off tube. I apparently need to do some research on all these different IPA styles, because between NEIPA, MWIPA, NWIPA, IPA, IIPA, etc, I'm sort of lost about the differences in that style. So long that I can throw some tasty hops in at the end and call it a day, I think I'll survive.
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Feb 7, 2017 20:18
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Jhet posted:I apparently need to do some research on all these different IPA styles, because between NEIPA, MWIPA, NWIPA, IPA, IIPA, etc, I'm sort of lost about the differences in that style. So long that I can throw some tasty hops in at the end and call it a day, I think I'll survive. My MWIPA is kind of a joke / twist on the NEIPA thing, only instead of Wheat/Flour to get some haze going, I'm using Corn (cause midwest) in the form of Corn Masa. It's about 21% of the grist by weight, so there's a lot in there and I'm hoping for something interesting. Otherwise, it's a NEIPA as far as the hop additions go. My cheatsheet goes like this usually: NWIPA - Piney / Herbal, usually very bitter NEIPA - Juicy, less bitter, citrusy hops - often cloudy MWIPA - I guess the REAL MWIPA is probably Bell's Two Hearted, but I liken modern MWIPAs to most of the Pale beers from Three Floyd's (I'm in that area, I drink mostly these) IPA - 'Whatever' w/r/t BJCP style guidlines IIPA - Double/Imperials - High ABV, usually high IBU to balance the malt backbone IIIPA - A few of these lurking around like Green Bullet from Green Flash Brewing, Hi-Res from Sixpoint. See IIPA ++ edit: I should always put a "PS: YMMV" at the end of posts like this because it's more opinion than official rules. robotsinmyhead fucked around with this message at 21:18 on Feb 7, 2017 |
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Feb 7, 2017 21:07
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