|
Looking into possibly picking up a '17 or '18 WRX... Are air/oil separators fairly easy to install?
|
#
?
Feb 7, 2017 00:28
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 27, 2024 00:34 |
|
|
jamal posted:On BMWs they pull the intake manifold and use walnut shell blasting to clean them. I'm guessing subaru will come out with a similar procedure at some point. I actually came across this NASIOC thread where someone did some walnut blasting. heh https://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2756556
|
|
#
?
Feb 7, 2017 00:40
|
|
|
Oops, nevermind. Turns out it's supposed to prevent pressurizing the crank case by blocking that port. Words are hard. PabloBOOM fucked around with this message at 01:31 on Feb 7, 2017 |
|
#
?
Feb 7, 2017 01:10
|
|
|
Right, if you take every PCV line and just put it into a can that is generally not the best solution. But given the choice between having vacuum on the crank and not burning oil I would take the latter. Crawford's AOS for example has a top vent that routes back to the intake, and a bottom drain that goes to the crankcase. That will keep a lot of oil vapor from getting back into the intake but it also means that some of the stuff that would normally evaporate out of the oil and burn off gets put right back in. An AOS or catch can without a drain back won't do that, but you have to clean it out regularly. Assuming that it is actually separating oil vapor, a system that goes back to the intake pre-turbo and maintains vacuum on the system will be better. On our race car we found that wasn't happening and a bunch of oil was still getting pulled in and burned anyway. So then the AOS stayed in place but the top vent went into another bottle instead of the intake. There is another downside to an AOS system, and that is the potential for leaks. Any leaks in the can or at the fittings or lines on a recirculated system means unmetered air going into the engine, and that tends to break things. I haven't seen one personally but it seems like perrin is doing a decent setup now and they have brackets and routing options for most Subaru engine bays. Not seeing a perrin 15+ wrx option, but crawford makes them. That's probably the best option currently for a 15 wrx. Mishimoto does have a dual baffled catch can setup meant to fit in the wrx, but they'll have to get drained occasionally. All the options seem to be a little over $300. Kind of a lot for a can and some lines IMO but I guess being pre-made and a direct fit is worth something. jamal fucked around with this message at 01:49 on Feb 7, 2017 |
|
#
?
Feb 7, 2017 01:38
|
|
|
I should mention that I've also seen cheapo AOS cans without coolant lines going to them freeze in the winter during extended highway cruise in -30 Celsius weather. One of those ate an engine from oil starvation.
|
|
#
?
Feb 7, 2017 01:46
|
|
|
Wouldn't a wet nitrous kit also keep the valves clean? 
|
|
#
?
Feb 7, 2017 01:48
|
|
|
Seat Safety Switch posted:I should mention that I've also seen cheapo AOS cans without coolant lines going to them freeze in the winter during extended highway cruise in -30 Celsius weather. One of those ate an engine from oil starvation. Perrin and Crawford cans have coolant fittings. Although I suppose the lines themselves can still freeze if it's cold enough. But I mean, if you block off the whole pcv system I'm not sure how it would oil starve the bearings. Issue with the turbo from not being able to drain I could see. Or maybe crankcase pressure could build up enough to pop out an oil seal? Some links: http://perrinperformance.com/i-14908570-air-oil-separator-for-wrx-sti.html http://crawfordperformance.com/collections/consumption-savers/products/cp-v3-air-oil-separator-dit https://engineering.mishimoto.com/2014/08/mishimoto-2015-subaru-wrx-direct-fit-baffled-oil-catch-can-system-part-3-final-product-reveal/ I should probably have all that on my own site. But if anyone here wants one I can usually do a little better than most advertised prices. jamal fucked around with this message at 23:56 on Feb 7, 2017 |
|
#
?
Feb 7, 2017 01:52
|
|
|
I noticed my rear brakes making some noise last week and since my Forester has 182k miles on it, I thought I should probably replace the calipers too since they're original and the whole kit at RockAuto wasn't too bad. I ordered parts and they should be here this week. Since the weather was nice today I pulled off a wheel to see what kind of job I'm getting myself in to. It looks fairly straightforward as long as I can get the caliper support bolts out to pull off the rotors. How do you remove the brake line from the caliper? I don't think (hope) I will need them, but are aftermarket caliper support brackets available for the rear brakes? Everywhere I looked only stocks them for the front.
|
|
#
?
Feb 7, 2017 02:12
|
|
|
Racing brake used to make a kit with taller brackets and bigger rotors for the stock front calipers, not sure if they still do. If you have 16" wheels you can use the WRX brackets and rotors with your pads, they are 294mm instead of 276. There's a similar thing for the rear, where get the brackets for the 00-04 legacy plus the bigger 290mm rotors to go with them (stock are 266). It's what I did on my Legacy GT. Gives more brake torque without changing piston sizes or bias, so it works with the stock MC and bias valve. It can be tricky to get the rotors off the parking brake shoes. Definitely make sure the brake is off when you start, but also you might have to adjust the shoes in, which is done with a screwdriver through a plug in the backing plate. If you yank on it you can bend poo poo in the parking brakes and break the retaining tabs.
|
|
#
?
Feb 7, 2017 02:21
|
|
|
Something that was mentioned to me as another option would be to switch to an e85 tune. I'm not as knowledgeable as most people in the thread but that doesn't sound like it would fix this specific issue.
|
|
#
?
Feb 7, 2017 02:44
|
|
|
Thanks Jamal. I'm keeping stock brakes since the Forester is just a winter daily driver for me. My C7 scratches my performance car itch. I'm hoping I can just reuse the existing support brackets and I don't break off the bolts trying to get them out. I was going to order a spare set just in case but it looks like I may have to get them from a dealer if I do need them. I read up on the E-Brake thing - hopefully everything isn't a giant pile of rust. I didn't have a ton of time to try and see if the adjuster was movable or not tonight. The main thing I couldn't immediately figure out was how to get the brake line off the caliper.
|
|
#
?
Feb 7, 2017 02:57
|
|
|
If you're worried about gummy valves, I'd just do water/meth injection (unless warranty is a concern, then  ). It'll clean everything for you and you get more power, but you'll need tuned for it. But you don't have to dick with the PCV system. Otherwise I'd just get a cheap catch can and source your own lines and clamps vs. paying $300 for those kits. It's not rocket surgery to DIY that. And no, E85 won't change anything. The problem is the fuel is being injected directly into the cylinders (Direct Injection, DI) vs. before with port injection (Port fuel injection, PFI) the fuel injectors were in the intake manifold ports before the cylinder and could spray directly on the valves. Now, fuel is injected past them and they build up with EGR and PCV gunk which gets put into the tract further upstream. It's pretty common on DI engines anymore. You gain a little bit of fuel economy, power, and knock threshold with DI vs PFI but it costs more and the servicing for it is obviously worse...Just in case you were wondering why it was done in the first place. Suburban Dad fucked around with this message at 03:38 on Feb 7, 2017 |
|
#
?
Feb 7, 2017 03:35
|
|
|
I don't know why the BRZ's method of port and direct injection isn't used more often.
|
|
#
?
Feb 7, 2017 03:39
|
|
|
And here I was thinking the time of the yearly engine head job was looooong gone. Nooooope, thanks to DI you too can roll back to when Cat Interceptor was a child and cars literally had to have their cylinder heads and intake stripped down and de-coked / deoiled every year. Kinda wonder if a good old fashioned Italian tune might help out.
|
|
#
?
Feb 7, 2017 04:34
|
|
|
I'm at 19k miles on my 2015 and it seems to be driving fine. I use 93 octane from well major gasoline brands. How will I know if/when my valves and cylinders are all nasty?
|
|
#
?
Feb 7, 2017 04:46
|
|
|
Yeah water injection would help. With straight water you don't really need tuning but then of course it can freeze. With a meth mixture you do need to tune, plus a good system with flow sensors and failsafes. A cheaper system with straight water would be pretty useful during the summer and at track days, then when it gets cold you can just turn it off and drain the tank. That's still like $400 though.bull3964 posted:I don't know why the BRZ's method of port and direct injection isn't used more often. Toyota probably knew this would happen and made them do it. Fuel quality and type isn't really going to have anything to do with it. The build up is mostly oil vapor from the pcv system. jamal fucked around with this message at 05:00 on Feb 7, 2017 |
|
#
?
Feb 7, 2017 04:55
|
|
|
Honestly just get an AOS if you're worried about it. I got mine installed for less than $500 parts/labor. Well worth the peace of mind and it absolutely smooths out the power delivery.
|
|
#
?
Feb 7, 2017 05:02
|
|
|
bull3964 posted:I don't know why the BRZ's method of port and direct injection isn't used more often. I want to say toyota owns the patent.
|
|
#
?
Feb 7, 2017 07:13
|
|
|
The best thing about a Liberty Spec.B? Realising that when I look under it, I have a godawful load to learn all over again. I know so little about the H6 and also about the rear suspension.... no idea what size the brakes are or what I need to do to upgrade them, no idea what's under the dash..... This is fun to read and learn all over again.
|
|
#
?
Feb 7, 2017 11:31
|
|
|
bull3964 posted:I don't know why the BRZ's method of port and direct injection isn't used more often. It's 100% cost. Another fuel rail, injectors, wiring, calibration effort, diagnostic programming, algorithm development, etc. It's not something most OEMs are used to with controlling which injectors are used for which load range. Then there's making that transition from one to the other smooth. It's much easier to make sure that it makes it through the warranty period without rough running and then pass on the service cost to the consumer. 
|
|
#
?
Feb 7, 2017 12:39
|
|
|
pctD posted:Honestly just get an AOS if you're worried about it. I got mine installed for less than $500 parts/labor. Well worth the peace of mind and it absolutely smooths out the power delivery. This is probably the route I'll end up going also. I was definitely educated so thanks again thread! Water injection would also work for me since I live in South Florida and have 0 concern for it freezing. I'll price both options out though and see what's best. net work error fucked around with this message at 13:34 on Feb 7, 2017 |
|
#
?
Feb 7, 2017 13:24
|
|
|
A crawford AOS is just over $300, the Mishimoto dual baffled set up about the same. The MM seems like a decent product but you do have to empty the cans yourself. For water injection, snow seems to be the cheapest option, with AEM a close 2nd. They are both fairly similar, when you hit a pre-set boost amount the pump comes on. You can change the amount of flow with different/more nozzles. Aquamist does a way nicer system that monitors IDC, has a flow sensor, and uses a PWM based valve to inject. They also have a kit specifically for the 15+ wrx. More expensive, but the only way to go if you ever want to also inject meth and tune for power with it. But if I just wanted to spray a bit of water I would go with AEM. Anyway, I'd suggest just getting an AOS. If you want pricing/other info send me a pm or email. CAT INTERCEPTOR posted:The best thing about a Liberty Spec.B? Realising that when I look under it, I have a godawful load to learn all over again. I know so little about the H6 and also about the rear suspension.... no idea what size the brakes are or what I need to do to upgrade them, no idea what's under the dash..... Brakes should be 316mm up front and 290mm vented rear rotors. Those fronts started with the 2005 Legacy GT and also go on the tribeca and current WRX. I have a sheet with piston and rotor sizes for pretty much all the subaru brakes to calculate bias changes on my google drive if you want to take a look. Rear suspension is kind of funny, and unique to the 3rd and 4th gen Legacy- Subaru's first attempt at a multi-link from 2000. The spec-b gets an aluminum upright/trailing arm, which are one big piece. I think the spec-b upper arms might be AL as well. Downside is that toe adjustments then are based on moving the upright in relation to that front mounting point so it has a bigger effect on camber and even the track width. Plus side is probably minimal bump steer. Camber cure should be decent. The aftermarket makes adjustable links, all the bushings, and swaybars for them. The struts/shocks/springs are also nearly compatible with newer Impreza stuff. jamal fucked around with this message at 23:58 on Feb 7, 2017 |
|
#
?
Feb 7, 2017 20:10
|
|
|
Guinness posted:Is this a stock motor? If so, fuuuuuuck. Was thinking about the WRX after the MY18 refresh but uhhhhh. Yea Stock and under Warranty. Next time I talk to my son I'll ask him if he sees a lot of these. Might be a little early, to see if it's a trend. Also, when I modify my car I just do whatever Jamal says to do.
|
|
#
?
Feb 8, 2017 01:32
|
|
|
Just ordered a Crawford AOS from jamal. Super helpful and quick responses. Excited to get it and get it on so I don't have to think about the carbon anymore. I've only got 2500 miles on my '17 and i would like to keep it healthy for a long time.
|
|
#
?
Feb 9, 2017 16:07
|
|
|
Another day, another snowstorm, another good time to have Blizzaks. Lose traction making a turn? Power through it and giggle.
|
|
#
?
Feb 9, 2017 16:15
|
|
|
Another swing and a miss for Western PA. Oh, we got about 6 inches, but the timing meant that it come overnight and stopped early enough for them to get the roads clear before morning. Gonna be 64 by Sunday.
|
|
#
?
Feb 9, 2017 16:22
|
|
|
Naked Bear posted:Another day, another snowstorm, another good time to have Blizzaks. Lose traction making a turn? Power through it and giggle. Putting my X-Ices on tomorrow for a weekend Tahoe trip. Gonna be fun as hell.
|
|
#
?
Feb 9, 2017 17:24
|
|
|
Nearly got stuck here in Hartford CT. Still 5 more hours to go. Unplowed areas are up to the underside of my car, and it's lifted about an inch!
|
|
#
?
Feb 9, 2017 17:38
|
|
|
bull3964 posted:Another swing and a miss for Western PA. Oh, we got about 6 inches, but the timing meant that it come overnight and stopped early enough for them to get the roads clear before morning. I live in central PA and we got about 9" and it didn't stop till about 8am. Roads this morning were white and packed. I don't have to go to work till around 2 but it's nice to have new winter tires. It's supposed to be around 50 here this weekend as well.
|
|
#
?
Feb 9, 2017 18:44
|
|
|
Back in the good ol' days, when Subaru made proper wagons. https://www.9news.com/news/local/next/most-colorado-thing-coloradans-are-begging-to-buy-this-subaru/401397109
|
|
#
?
Feb 9, 2017 20:17
|
|
|
Slick, wet, slushy roads on the way home this morning with freezing glazing on everything. Forester, Blizzaks ... meh. Pretty dull drive.
|
|
#
?
Feb 9, 2017 23:10
|
|
|
Had an enjoyable drive up to the ski hill yesterday. Now everything is a wet/frozen disaster depending on elevation. I was going to ski again but it was raining this morning up there and then they had a power outage. I-90 west of town is closed and underwater.
|
|
#
?
Feb 9, 2017 23:41
|
|
|
Naked Bear posted:Back in the good ol' days, when Subaru made proper wagons. I get notes left on the LGT wagon all the time. I'm sure they want to low ball the poo poo out of me (not thank a 150k mi subaru is worth much no matter how unicorn it is).
|
|
#
?
Feb 9, 2017 23:53
|
|
|
Naked Bear posted:Back in the good ol' days, when Subaru made proper wagons. The place where I get oil changes leaves your car out front, sometimes parked on the grass if the parking lot is full and I always get notes left on my car, or the techs themselves saying "someone came by and wants to know if you want to sell your car/how much do you want to sell it for"
|
|
#
?
Feb 9, 2017 23:59
|
|
|
If they are that desperate for a subaru why dont they buy one from where it doesnt snow?
|
|
#
?
Feb 10, 2017 00:18
|
|
|
So I'm looking at a 2010 outback sport and a 2009 forester 2.5x this weekend. Are there any common issues I need to be aware of? Any other general advice would be appreciated, as well.
|
|
#
?
Feb 10, 2017 01:38
|
|
|
Awww yiss, my WRX arrived today and it's pretty drat good. A lot better than I was expecting seeing as it came from one of the colder snowier parts of the country. It's rust free and has been undercoated recently but the rear right fender is just about on the edge. Nothing rusts that badly in this part of the country so it's not in immediate danger but what's a good action plan to catch it before it needs new plate? Sand down to metal, treat, then prime/paint?
|
|
#
?
Feb 10, 2017 06:02
|
|
|
RillAkBea posted:Awww yiss, my WRX arrived today and it's pretty drat good. A lot better than I was expecting seeing as it came from one of the colder snowier parts of the country. Must be super weird driving a GD WRX in Japan. It is probably a huge car over there. And yeah, do basically what you said. In my experience they rust from the inside, though, from trapping wet leaves and grit behind the fender liner (bugeyes are worse for this than other GD/GGs for some reason). The other fender is probably not far behind, so it'd behoove you to remove both. It looks clean. Are the little vents on the grille surrounds factory on the WRX over there? I don't think I've even seen them on the RHD 02 STIs that are showing up on our shores now, just the HIDs. If the JDMs have a pre-cat you might also want to look at a catless up-pipe. The coilpacks and rad endtanks are probably getting pretty old now, too. Love that car. Seat Safety Switch fucked around with this message at 06:19 on Feb 10, 2017 |
|
#
?
Feb 10, 2017 06:15
|
|
|
Seat Safety Switch posted:Must be super weird driving a GD WRX in Japan. It is probably a huge car over there. It is pretty big for Japan, slightly more so than I was expecting but the roads aren't TOO bad around these parts these days. There's only about one road on my usual schedule I'm gonna bother to find an alternate route for. Understood on the fenders and I'll give the rest a more thorough check when the weather stops being stupid. I'm not entirely certain about the "vents" but I think they're aftermarket. Mainly because they're actually black stickers.  Used stock replacements are only 10-20 bucks on Yahoo Auctions though so I'm looking out for some color matched ones. Otherwise it's pretty drat clean though, yeah. Only other mods I've noticed without crawling under it are an electronic boost gauge, a larger than stock muffler, a  grounding kit, painted stock floating calipers, and for some reason purple anodized hub spacers which doesn't make an awful lot of sense because it's on Legacy 17" rims.
|
|
#
?
Feb 10, 2017 07:59
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 27, 2024 00:34 |
|
|
underage at the vape shop posted:If they are that desperate for a subaru why dont they buy one from where it doesnt snow?  That type of outback is all over houston craigslist for a pittance. Stupid ex-Californians, loving up my home state.Speaking of stupid, I just dropped a stupid amount of money on headgaskets, timing, and assorted poo poo for my '08. It drives great and I'm happy to have it back. Hopefully I can squeeze another 100,000 miles out of it.ProTip: dealers will charge you dearly for this (as well as FCABs)
|
|
#
?
Feb 10, 2017 13:11
|
|
