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So this Outback XT caught my interest while looking for potential project candidates. https://cnj.craigslist.org/cto/5992464716.html The project being a 2006-2009 Legacy Wagon or Outback with an EZ36 running on a Haltech ECU and a manual transmission. My prior potential candidate was a 2006 Legacy Wagon with 218k miles and an automatic transmission for a little over half the price of that Outback XT. However being that I need to swap the transmission, probably the axles and rear diff, the pedal assembly and gear lever, and rewire the car to run like a manual, the price will likely come closer to $5000 plus a lot of work and a lot of downtime for a car I don't exactly have a place to store it or work on it right now. With the Outback XT, while I would have preferred a Legacy Wagon and I kind of like the pre-facelift look more, it has almost everything I need except the engine and seems to be in decent condition. (Yeah, I can see that part of the front-right cladding is missing and there's scratches on the rear-left bumper but that's probably trivial to fix.) That means less things I need to swap and I can actually use the car now and take my time planning the swap Plus, it's a lot more local to me compared to the Legacy Wagon near Yonkers.
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Feb 11, 2017 06:03
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| # ? May 29, 2024 22:58 |
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I don't know a lot about the 6 cylinders, but i think i like the 3.0 better because it doesn't have the funky offset rods and did have a shorter stroke with thicker cylinder walls. So better for revs and boost. Plus i think more 3.0s have been built and turbocharged so there should be more parts available. There are some spacers and different parts for the drivetrain and suspension with the outback. If you want it legacy height or lower you can swap and take parts out but starting with a legacy skips all that. Send me an email some time if you feel like it, i may or may not be able to help. It's peter at functionauto.com jamal fucked around with this message at 06:36 on Feb 11, 2017 |
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Feb 11, 2017 06:33
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There is a few places doing 3.6 turbo drive in / drive out kits, 300+Kw ATW is no real problem with built internals. Mighty Car Mods proved the 3.6 will take a low boost setup and make for a hugely fast car without opening the block at all and you can get 270Kw ATW but also with some biiiig and fat torque curve. The 3.6 is the base that gets used here just simply because big power, not much boost required (like as in 5-6psi) and with that boost level the engine hangs together perfectly well. IF you want more boost then building the bottom end does need to be looked at. Keep the tailshaft, that will be required for I presume the six speed swap. Everything else just bolts right in. The only real issue with the wiring is the neutral switch but that's now a known rewire / loopback.
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Feb 11, 2017 09:35
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CAT INTERCEPTOR posted:There is a few places doing 3.6 turbo drive in / drive out kits, 300+Kw ATW is no real problem with built internals. Mighty Car Mods proved the 3.6 will take a low boost setup and make for a hugely fast car without opening the block at all and you can get 270Kw ATW but also with some biiiig and fat torque curve. The 3.6 is the base that gets used here just simply because big power, not much boost required (like as in 5-6psi) and with that boost level the engine hangs together perfectly well. IF you want more boost then building the bottom end does need to be looked at. Now I hope my Dad gets bored with his outback 3.6R so I can have some fun.
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Feb 11, 2017 12:08
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Forced induction for the EZ36 didn't really cross my mind at first until I saw MCM do it. As cool as that is, though, turboing the EZ36 is much further down the line for me. Modifying the head unit with a double DIN adapter, reworking and lowering the suspension, and swapping to the 6-speed will be further up the list of things to do. In fact, my original intent for the car was a fast, fun, and practical daily driver without all the fussiness of the EJ255. I intentionally chose the EZ36 over the EZ30 because the stock EZ36 makes just as much power and torque as the EZ30 while running on 87 gas. The EZ36 is also apparently more responsive compared to the EZ30 even when jerryrigged to run on an EZ30 ECU. With a tune and aftermarket headers, I can probably get a reasonable amount of power for street driving. I never really intended to track or race the car though I'm purposely keeping my options open if I change my mind. So other than the external blemishes I previously noted and some worn out buttons and labeling, is that Outback XT otherwise good for what I want to do?
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Feb 11, 2017 18:06
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It's a Gen IV so...... yes. Best Liberty. Also that car in question doesnt look too bad at all
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Feb 11, 2017 22:00
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Up I Tahoe for the weekend and drat, I can't get my WRX to slip in snow with Michelin X-Ice 3 tires unless I just stomp on the gas.
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Feb 12, 2017 06:08
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Who knew the ez30 could sound so...  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uod6avfs4AM
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Feb 12, 2017 12:37
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My gf's Forester just hit 250k and the rear u-joint finally snapped so I pulled the whole shaft out. I guess its front-wheel drive only now and it solved the problem of being undriveable but from the mile or two that I went from where I broke down and back to the house it started smoking really bad. Smells like transmission fluid and I'm pretty sure its leaking out from where I disconnected it. Is there any makeshift way to fix this other than constantly refilling it? It drives fine aside from this. Gonna trash the car in like a month so if I can just like shoot a bunch of glue up in there or something and seal it without blowing the car up somehow I will just do that. Anyone have experience with this janky business?
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Feb 13, 2017 17:34
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Thief posted:My gf's Forester just hit 250k and the rear u-joint finally snapped so I pulled the whole shaft out. I could be wrong, but I think you will destroy the center diff if you drive it like that.
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Feb 13, 2017 18:08
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What if I disconnect the u joint and reattach the shaft?
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Feb 13, 2017 18:18
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I'm gonna go out on a limb and assume that this is an automatic subaru with a 4EAT in it. Pull the fuse to turn off AWD at least.
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Feb 13, 2017 18:42
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Go buy an axle, they're under $100 at a parts store. The wheel will fall off without a cv joint bolted through the hub.
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Feb 13, 2017 19:09
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jamal posted:The wheel will fall off  Normally I would but I have a couple other cars to get around in so I don't think I'm gonna put any more money into it. It's getting donated in May regardless of the condition it is in for non-driving related stuff. Was fun seeing how far that thing would go though! Thanks for the quick replies.
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Feb 13, 2017 20:32
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So Ive been working on putting headers, up pipe, P&Ped stock turbo, and down pipe on my 04 WRX. And I found my turbo inlet tore. Is there a go to replacement? OEM, or a brand of silicone? Also gently caress THIS CAR! Ive yet to own a car that takes skin off my hands like a loving Subaru.
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Feb 14, 2017 04:41
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Just don't get one of the hard turbo inlets. They are an immense pain to put on.
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Feb 14, 2017 04:48
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I've been happy with the perrin inlets. You can jam them in there without removing the manifold. They've had a few tries at getting them right while some of the others wind up a little bit off and somewhat likely to slip off the turbo. The hard inlets are cool but yeah, you have to take off the manifold and futz around with the fuel rails and also a little grinding to the tgv housing helps. And if you think Subarus are bad, try working on an evo x. Those things always cut the poo poo out of my hands.
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Feb 14, 2017 05:09
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jamal posted:You can jam them in there without removing the manifold. I think you and I know well how important this is, unless you're doing TGV deletes or E85 rated fuel hose at the same time. DJ Commie fucked around with this message at 05:33 on Feb 14, 2017 |
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Feb 14, 2017 05:30
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Finally got my fuggin' car back from the dealer. I have given him a hug every day since getting him back, so atrocious was what basically amount to a week-long test drive in that god-awful 2017 Outback. I swear I thought I was going to roll the loving thing every time I nudged the wheel to either side... I didn't actually think it was physically possible to hate a Subaru, but here we are...
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Feb 14, 2017 06:35
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SwissArmyDruid posted:Finally got my fuggin' car back from the dealer. I have given him a hug every day since getting him back, so atrocious was what basically amount to a week-long test drive in that god-awful 2017 Outback. I swear I thought I was going to roll the loving thing every time I nudged the wheel to either side... That's weird, because my Forester is the same ride height with two inches more height and five inches shorter wheelbase, and it feels pretty well planted, even on the squishy 17" Winter tires. I didn't test-drive an Outback, though, so maybe they feel worse somehow.
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Feb 14, 2017 09:50
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The suspension geometry would be different between the 2 cars.
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Feb 14, 2017 11:09
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underage at the vape shop posted:The suspension geometry would be different between the 2 cars. I'm not sure they change much other than spring stiffness, and both my car and the softer 2.5i felt fine. But like I said, I didn't drive an Outback, maybe they go for some real cushiness there since it's supposed to be a little more upscale. Edit: Looking around, it's hard to find some good hard info on the differences between the suspensions. I would have thought someone would have tried swapping bits already. tetrapyloctomy fucked around with this message at 13:08 on Feb 14, 2017 |
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Feb 14, 2017 11:56
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tetrapyloctomy posted:That's weird, because my Forester is the same ride height with two inches more height and five inches shorter wheelbase, and it feels pretty well planted, even on the squishy 17" Winter tires. I didn't test-drive an Outback, though, so maybe they feel worse somehow. I am 100% hyperbolizing, but consider that my usual ride is a 2013 Impreza hatch: It is 11-and-change inches shorter, 3 inches less ground clearance, and 600 pounds lighter than the Outback. Even AWD couldn't make me feel safe driving the the SUV. And it was the 2.5i model, too. It definitely needs the 3.6R to be halfway to not-terrible. About the only nice thing that I can say about the car was that they addressed road noise greatly, and I *think* you can't hear what I'm playing on the sound system through closed windows at a moderate volume anymore. (This occasionally makes for some very dirty looks in my current car when I listen to blue comedy albums piped from my phone.) Otherwise, the 2017 Outback seems to suffer from too much "this is a clever little add" and not enough "this is a good design". SwissArmyDruid fucked around with this message at 14:25 on Feb 14, 2017 |
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Feb 14, 2017 14:04
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SwissArmyDruid posted:I am 100% hyperbolizing, but consider that my usual ride is a 2013 Impreza hatch: It is 11-and-change inches shorter, 3 inches less ground clearance, and 600 pounds lighter than the Outback. Even AWD couldn't make me feel safe driving the the SUV. And it was the 2.5i model, too. It definitely needs the 3.6R to be halfway to not-terrible. I'm so glad I kept my '06 wagon, despite the fact that it certainly was a bad financial decision. The FXT is fast, even keeping it under 4k during the break-in period. The FXT is comfortable. The FXT, other than a few irritating quirks, is surprisingly well-designed given the massive number of technologies it possesses that the wagon does not. The FXT is almost certainly better in extremely foul weather than the wagon, by virtue of the three inches of ground clearance you mentioned as well as a much more sophisticated drivetrain than the wagon, which doesn't even have great ABS, let alone any traction control, stability control, etc. The FXT is pretty much objectively just a better car, even taking into account the eleven years difference in age. But man, that wagon is just great. Sure, it would be nice if it had heated seats, and mechanically it's seen better days, but if ever I owned a car that was **me**, it's that one.
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Feb 14, 2017 15:03
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underage at the vape shop posted:The suspension geometry would be different between the 2 cars. Pretty much identical. My thought is better struts, a better alignment, and an sti 18 or 20mm rear swaybar would be helpful on the forester and outback without going through the work of lowering them to standard impreza/legacy height. And better tires.
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Feb 14, 2017 18:30
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Speaking of which, anyone have any experience with Michelin Premier A/Ses? They seem to be the top-rated tire in the FXT stock size, but choices are slim.
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Feb 14, 2017 21:38
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Got my Crawford AOS (thanks jamal) and Cobb SF Intake installed today. I also loaded an off-the-shelf stage 1+ map from Cobb to compensate for the Intake. The Intake is definitely much louder, which is actually nice since the turbo is actually audible now. The Cobb tune took care of the 1-2 rev hang that the car had from stock, and it feels smoother to drive now, if not necessarily a ton more powerful. 
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Feb 14, 2017 22:45
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Imperador do Brasil posted:The Cobb tune took care of the 1-2 rev hang that the car had from stock This is the main reason why I want to tune mine. Fuckin 7-year warranty though! 
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Feb 14, 2017 22:49
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Henrik Zetterberg posted:This is the main reason why I want to tune mine. Fuckin 7-year warranty though! Yeah you can always unmarry the accessport though.
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Feb 14, 2017 23:00
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Subaru has done a few intake based repairs on my car with the Cobb intake and accessport. They even offered an alignment once for my coilovers lol. But a lot of it is dealer dependent and I have been turned down at other dealers for the same repair so YMMV.
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Feb 15, 2017 00:01
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Imperador do Brasil posted:Yeah you can always unmarry the accessport though. Yeah, but somewhere earlier in the thread, someone said they can still tell it was flashed at one point.
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Feb 15, 2017 00:04
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Henrik Zetterberg posted:Yeah, but somewhere earlier in the thread, someone said they can still tell it was flashed at one point. That's what I've mostly read, but I could never find an answer that included any sort of details other than mentions of checksums. Of course there are almost as many people saying there's no way they could tell. If it turns out they can't tell once it's umarried, then I'm going to be $650 poorer.
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Feb 15, 2017 02:50
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CrzyDTpBoy posted:That's what I've mostly read, but I could never find an answer that included any sort of details other than mentions of checksums. Of course there are almost as many people saying there's no way they could tell. Depends on how much they want to detect it and whether returning it to stock genuinely overwrite every scrap of ROM AND reset every flag and counter back to something that looked like normal driving, A return to stock could look to be suspiciously clear of counters. There can be counters that increment the number of times the ECU sees that it is being written to with a record of checksums. Also the auto learning tables where the ECU maps runtime changes it sees are required will be blanked out or not populated with enough data. That's just ideas off the top of my head., there's other ways. So yes, of course they can tell. Whether they want to search to the nth degree is another question, so presume it can be detected. A piggyback / interceptor module cant be detected, as far as the ECU is concerned it's seeing data that looks right
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Feb 15, 2017 03:52
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My little brother is in the coast guard and he doesn't drive much. Fortunately he made the bright decision to buy a 2016 STI last year and pay a poo poo ton of money for a car he will never use. Mind you I bought this kid his first car(integra) and did a full type R swap(itr motor all the way down to stitch welding and bracing) for him so I was just glad to be released by the wonderful Subaru warranty from the hell that was fixing his car while he pretended to not know how to do anything. Fortunately he wasn't a bad driver so his clutch and trans survived the 8000 rpm shifts and general teenager hooniery. Well today I got the funniest call he has ever given me. At the wonderful number of 6690 miles his clutch went on a 10 hour highway drive on I95 back to base in Maine. Has anyone else heard of a clutch issue with these cars? Do they use any type of modulated cylinder for traction control? It might just teenage morony, but the highway bit has me stumped. As a side note he got a sti without the wing which I continually refer to as an accord just to piss him off. Why anyone would do that I couldn't guess.
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Feb 15, 2017 06:32
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No idea if they've got a clutch damper valve, but if he's blown the clutch at 6700mi I'd be very inclined to call it a liveware problem.
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Feb 15, 2017 07:07
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I have a friend who went from an EG Civic to an 04 STI and blew the clutch in 3000 km of driving. He had developed a habit of resting his foot on the clutch pedal when he was learning, which presumably is fine with a low-torque car like an EG but did not do the clutch in the STI any favours. I would assume an ITR engine has a little bit more guts than a non-VTEC B18.
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Feb 15, 2017 07:11
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Seat Safety Switch posted:I have a friend who went from an EG Civic to an 04 STI and blew the clutch in 3000 km of driving. His motor made 203whp out of the itr trans so it was a pretty quick car. I also had a exedy twin disc in it so he had pedal feel and it wasn't like a comp heavy clutch which would make total sense with your theory.. So I have to discount the resting foot, but it's a good idea. I'm beting on some failed attempt at a 60mph three footed brake boost scenario. I wonder if all the vaping has caused brain damage.
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Feb 15, 2017 07:22
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Sti has had the same clutch since the 6-speed came out in like 2002 and they are pretty durable.
jamal fucked around with this message at 07:49 on Feb 15, 2017 |
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Feb 15, 2017 07:46
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6600mi sounds like either a defective driver or a defective part. If it was way less, I'[d say part for sure, but this is in this weird point.
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Feb 15, 2017 08:45
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| # ? May 29, 2024 22:58 |
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So I ended up buying the 04 Impreza RS a few days ago. Today, I went to a client meeting, got back in the car to drive home, dead battery. Cue me raging against the dealer for loving me over with a busted battery or alternator, or worse some power-sapping electrical gremlins. Everything was turned off, checked all interior lights, headlights, car was locked etc. Eventually got roadside assistance to come out, and he was helping me load test it after it was running to see if it was the alternator or battery. He asked me to turn the lights off, I check the stalk, and they are off. But the bulbs are definitely lit. Then I remember the switch on top of the steering column. On the way out to this meeting, my workmate was being a joker and trying to put my phone in random places in the car, one of which was the steering column, so he must have bumped it then. I didn't think to check the switch when I left the car (because why would I turn this on), and there was no beep reminder, I guess because its for crazy people who want to leave their parkers on when they leave their car  Anyway just sharing this story because there's no way I'm the first person to have done this. Also considering disconnecting this switch because I can imagine no scenario where I would want to do this without just using the loving stalk. Also, I was thinking of getting a double-din CarPlay/Android Auto head unit to replace the stock one. How attractive would this be for a thief, considering you can't detach the face or anything? While the car has an immobiliser it doesn't have an alarm. I never worried about this with my BMW because it had one of those head units made to look just like boring stock ones, and now I'm paranoid again. I had a detachable face on in my MX5 but that was because I didn't want my top slashed just so some fuckhead could steal my $50 head unit and $3.20 in change.
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Feb 15, 2017 10:40
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