|
windex posted:I'll throw in this too: Delta 3200 shot at EI 1600 and developed at box speed (e.g. for 3200) works out really well in low light conditions. It's a bit thin and more on the darker side, but will generally tolerate (to a usable image) EI 400 to EI 6400, and Ilford provides specific development instructions for EI 400 to EI 12500. If you want an all-in-one low light film to use, it's more successful for me than Tri-X 400 pushed to 1600 in very low light environments (e.g. mixed street lighting after dark). On the other hand, Tri-x @ 1600 is my go-to set for basically everything and it works fine for me. I've got a lot of grain on low light situations, but never enough that it was what I'd consider a problem. It also has some nice latitude (not Portra 400 like, but quite good) that you can salvage negatives even when the exposure is incorrect. I've underexposed two, sometimes even three stops and developed normally (for 1600, so I was efectively shooting at 6400 at least) and still got useable negatives, so... New page, ahoy, have a picture of the frankencamera! A 6x7 back for large format, rails from a 2x3, large format lens, polaroid COUPLED rangefinder  Primo Itch fucked around with this message at 02:46 on Jan 28, 2017 |
#
?
Jan 28, 2017 02:36
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 26, 2024 20:33 |
|
|
Hello, I purchased a Minolta XG-M and it arrived with a dead battery. I took the ones from my old one and replaced these but i got a working meter but no shutter action. I went and purchased a completely new battery and now the shutter fires but it constantly meters under. Could it be a bad cap in the camera?
|
|
#
?
Jan 30, 2017 18:25
|
|
|
There's no exposure comp on that body right?
|
|
#
?
Jan 30, 2017 18:35
|
|
|
I have an esoteric question I'm having no luck getting answers to on the internet. I've been refurbishing a Yashica Electro 35 GS and have got it just about ready to go. Its an aperture priority camera with a variable speed leaf shutter. The shutter speed can be anywhere from 30 seconds to 1/500th. Numerous folks on other forums have mentioned getting excellent shots with it at night or in moonlight but the camera has no means to manually adjust shutter speed to account for reciprocity failure. Is there some feature of averaging CdS light meters that they inherently behave like film failing in low light and the camera generally behaves correctly for most films or are these folks just forgetting to mention these are all shots done in bulb mode with a stop watch and external meter?
|
|
#
?
Feb 1, 2017 06:38
|
|
|
The latter, also they like to talk about souping their film and they also sell things on forums and then remove the price after it's sold.
|
|
#
?
Feb 1, 2017 07:49
|
|
|
Ferrania (just?) announced a new stock of film is back in an alpha phase http://www.filmferrania.it/p30
|
|
#
?
Feb 1, 2017 22:03
|
|
|
VelociBacon posted:There's no exposure comp on that body right? My thing? Never done the calculations, but I don't think it really needs, it's not intended for close-up work, at most portrait lenght (after that the rangefinder doesn't work). I've always just used an external meter for the currrent ISO or eyeballed the exposure, never had any problems. But them, I'm quite gung-ho with exposure...
|
|
#
?
Feb 4, 2017 21:37
|
|
|
There's a light meter issue on my AE- 1 that I inherited from my parents. It only happens on slow shutter speeds, so it's not really an issue in most situations. Anyway if I set the ISO to something like 400 and half-press the shutter, the meter correctly shows the appropriate aperture to use in the viewfinder. But if I change the shutter speed down to 1/2 second or slower and half-press the shutter, the needle falls down to the bottom and the red light blinks indicating underexposure. Everything above 1/2 second works fine. If I change the ISO to 800, then it no longer works at 1/4 second and slower. 1600, 1/8 second and so on. Same in the opposite direction. Fake edit: just read the manual before posting and this is actually intended functionality. The meter coupling only works in a limited range based on film speed
|
|
#
?
Feb 6, 2017 18:42
|
|
|
Somebody posted on a local bulletin board that they're selling two Hasselblad C/M bodies with a 150 portrait lens, a 80 lens, three 220 backs, two 120 backs and ~50 rolls of expired but refrigerated film for $900. I'm trying to get back into film photography. In high school I used to shoot nearly every day, but that was nearly a decade ago and I never had access to nice cameras so know very little about Hasselblads. Assuming this equipment is in good shape and you were in my position (starting out with no camera at all and $900 is just kind of within my budget) would you buy it?
|
|
#
?
Feb 13, 2017 23:36
|
|
|
It's a real good deal, if everything works. 500cm bodies are about 500 each alone. 220 backs are cheap because nobody makes 220 film anymore, but 120 backs are still closer to $150. basically you could buy that, separate it into two full setups, and sell one to pay for the other. you'll definitely need a handheld lightmeter as well.
|
|
#
?
Feb 13, 2017 23:47
|
|
|
seems like a good deal to me.
|
|
#
?
Feb 13, 2017 23:48
|
|
|
Awesome, I'll go investigate. Are there any particular issues I should keep an eye out for? Of course I'll study up more on the peculiarities of these cameras before I make a decision but thanks for the quick help.
|
|
#
?
Feb 13, 2017 23:55
|
|
|
I suppose I'll be eating nothing but ramen and potatoes for a while after this   They need a little cleaning but man I can't wait to start shooting. I'm glad they came with a cache of film for me to ruin while I learn the ropes. The color film will probably get sold, I have little use for it at this time. Maybe in the far future I'll rig up a C-41 process in my bathroom but I can't imagine that will happen for years.
|
|
#
?
Feb 14, 2017 01:48
|
|
|
You could probably offload the color film ez pz in the buy/sell thread.
|
|
#
?
Feb 14, 2017 02:01
|
|
|
Yeah I'm always buying film to fill my freezer
|
|
#
?
Feb 14, 2017 03:31
|
|
|
meatpotato posted:I suppose I'll be eating nothing but ramen and potatoes for a while after this Those are some slick cameras. I always go back and forth on whether I'd get all-black or silver trim if I bought one. Looks like you didn't have to make that choice! Here's hoping that they work as well as they look. Did the haul include a waist level finder? Might be worth getting one, as they cut down on weight. Plus it's just fun to compose with the giant image straight off the focusing screen. Also, you might not want to work with color film, but it's actually very simple to develop at home. Don't let the processing aspect put you off, if that's why you're not doing it. Of course if you have a young child in the house, it might be better to just not risk keeping containers of blix anywhere, even if they're supposedly in a kid-proof location. SMERSH Mouth fucked around with this message at 04:06 on Feb 14, 2017 |
|
#
?
Feb 14, 2017 04:03
|
|
|
Lemme know if you want to sell the 150mm or one of the a12 120 backs 
|
|
#
?
Feb 14, 2017 06:26
|
|
|
SMERSH Mouth posted:Did the haul include a waist level finder? Might be worth getting one, as they cut down on weight. Plus it's just fun to compose with the giant image straight off the focusing screen. I have one waist-level viewfinder. I also think prefer using it over a prism too! I bought a camera strap so I can use it without fear. Also thanks for the advice, I might decide to keep all that 220 color film. I thought processing C-41 was extremely difficult, but if it's not then I'm all for giving it a try. Photos shot on Portra look so dreamy on the flickr groups I've browsed, I love it. Another reason I'll probably keep the 220 color film is that I have five 220 backs and only one 120 back  I have no kids and my house is already full of dangerous stuff so blix would be right at home on my chemical shelf. Finally, that 150 lens has a small pit in the glass on the camera body side, which is kind of sad but it's nearer to the edge than the center so it may not be too nasty.
|
|
#
?
Feb 15, 2017 00:41
|
|
|
In my experience, blemishes, spots, and fungus patches in glass don't have much of an effect on the image unless the light happens to catch it at just the right angle. Then you might possibly see some localized softening or smearing. Maybe. If you stopped down. If it's towards the edge of the glass, you may never see any effect from it at all. Then again, since it's on the rear element, whatever effect there might be, it could be noticeable. But, again, in my experience, I've had a much worse time of it from de-centered (or just poorly centered at the time of construction... "sample variation") lens elements than haze, fungus, dust, tiny insects, minor scratches, 'cleaning marks', stray glue, fingerprints, and other stuff that affects the surface of glass. Good optical construction counts for the vast majority of optical performance, in my experience. I'm no opticsologist; just my observations. SMERSH Mouth fucked around with this message at 01:56 on Feb 15, 2017 |
|
#
?
Feb 15, 2017 01:54
|
|
|
Processing C-41 is not difficult; it just requires more effort and care than most people are willing to put/they don't enough shoot color neg for the hassle to be worth it. While B&W can be processed at pretty much room temperature (and one can adjust dev times to fit pretty much any definition of room temperature), color development doesn't work that way, as the actual dye couplers that make up the color are part of a specific chemical reaction designed around 100°F/38°C. Developer itself has something like ±1°F tolerance, which means you need to watch your temperatures pretty closely. You can develop outside that range, but there's no promise you won't get color shifts. A sink/bath/cooler is a good way to maintain it for the whole process. Bleach, fix, and stop baths have much looser tolerances, so it's really only the developer that you have to closely watch. There are also more systematic (and expensive) ways like a rotating drum in a tempering bath (i.e., a JOBO). You can also take advantage of Sous Vide technology and create a controlled tempering bath that way (I have done this with great results). The nice part about C-41 is that its a completely standardized process, so once you nail your temperatures, you can chuck in whatever C-41 film you want into your tank and develop them all together. E-6 is a lot like this, except the chemicals are more expensive (and if I recall correctly, even more toxic). In summary, C-41 development was designed for robots to take care of. It's not like B&W where there is an actual element of craft and artistic choice. You can develop at home it if you want, and you might even save money doing it if you shoot enough. But I would say for like 90% of shooters out there, it's not worth the hassle. BitesizedNike fucked around with this message at 02:14 on Feb 15, 2017 |
|
#
?
Feb 15, 2017 02:11
|
|
|
That's good information. I'll add that I would pay around/a little more than $10/roll to have 120 color negative film developed & scanned at either of my semi-local labs. The drive to and from the lab adds even more to the cost. (Although I guess I could just start mailing it in.. they're only about 45 minutes away though) In contrast, I pay about $25 for a 1L C41 chemical kit, or $35 for 2L. I get about 5 rolls out of each liter. Maybe six or seven if I develop multiple rolls in one sitting while the chemicals are still hot and fresh. The instructions that come with the chemical kit say that it has a capacity of 8 rolls/L so I'm being conservative. But that still cuts the cost per roll significantly. Of course I also scan at home, so that makes it easy to to everything in-house. But the scanner is another sunk cost to consider. Then another $70-80 if you want to go all out and build a temperature control bath. Real talk though, I would be developing that expired film at a lab if I cared about the results. If it came out looking too funny, I would always wonder if it was down the film being expired, or just my shoddy development timing.
|
|
#
?
Feb 15, 2017 03:56
|
|
|
I would also add that scanning is another skill itself to develop and there is no (and will likely never be) a set-it and forget it solution other than something like the Pakon (which still requires more work than say, putting your film in a mailer and finding stamps). I spend a couple hours every other weekend doing scans — this is time a lot of people would rather use... to go out and shoot. I actually spent more time scanning when I shot more 35mm since I had more negatives to work with and 35mm scanners are infinitely more fiddly than the flatbed I use for 120.
|
|
#
?
Feb 15, 2017 04:07
|
|
|
I bet temperature control would be pretty easy with a water bucket and fish tank heater. Set heater to 38 Celsius chuck bottles of chems in and go play games for a while.
|
|
#
?
Feb 15, 2017 04:26
|
|
|
From what I've read, fish tank heaters don't even get warm enough. I made my own water bath using a threaded mount heating element from the hardware store and a temperature controller. Drilled a hole in the side of a bucket, stuck the heating element through, siliconed it tight, and wired up the temp controller. I get 0.3 deg C precision and the temp controller learns when to shut off early to prevent overshoot. I've done C-41 and E-6 this way and the results are incredibly consistent
|
|
#
?
Feb 15, 2017 04:31
|
|
|
immersion circulator for sous vide cooking is double purpose if you like to eat food and develop film
|
|
#
?
Feb 15, 2017 07:41
|
|
|
SMERSH Mouth posted:That's good information. I'll add that I would pay around/a little more than $10/roll to have 120 color negative film developed & scanned at either of my semi-local labs. The drive to and from the lab adds even more to the cost. (Although I guess I could just start mailing it in.. they're only about 45 minutes away though) You said you do your own scanning... but also would pay a lab to scan for you? What's your lab charge for develop-only? In my case it's the same exact price as the chemicals to do it myself, except they use a 6-bath process instead of the inferior 3-bath powder kit I'd have to use.
|
|
#
?
Feb 15, 2017 08:26
|
|
|
My local lab charge 2.95 per C-41 roll (120 or 135) for developing only and it's done overnight. It's 6.95 for E-6 because they send it away to Germany. I guess it costs me about 60c per roll to develop my own B&W 120. A set of C-41 chemicals would cost me about $2 a roll.
|
|
#
?
Feb 15, 2017 13:07
|
|
|
ansel autisms posted:immersion circulator for sous vide cooking is double purpose if you like to eat food and develop film thats actually pretty cool
|
|
#
?
Feb 15, 2017 15:40
|
|
|
Dang, those are some good prices. MrBlandAverage posted:You said you do your own scanning... but also would pay a lab to scan for you? What's your lab charge for develop-only? There are two places in my area that do film processing. The closer one, with sales tax comes to about $8/roll for 120 C-41. Scanning is another $7 per roll. The other place is about $6.50 for processing and $9 for high-res scans. The scans from either place are definitely better than my v550's, so I usually just go for develop+scan if I'm making the trip to the store anyway. The labs definitely do a better job than I can at home, but I'm also impatient and like DIY poo poo, and the results from my bathroom lab and flatbed are satisfactory to me for sharing online. Plus I can always get them scanned at the lab if I need higher-resolution versions. Are you in the northwest? If there was a place like Citizens Photo nearby, I would have less of a need to develop at home, I guess. Helen Highwater posted:My local lab charge 2.95 per C-41 roll (120 or 135) for developing only and it's done overnight. It's 6.95 for E-6 because they send it away to Germany. I guess it costs me about 60c per roll to develop my own B&W 120. A set of C-41 chemicals would cost me about $2 a roll. That's a hell of a price. Or maybe I'm just overpaying. Seems like everything's expensive in Austin, though. BANME.sh posted:From what I've read, fish tank heaters don't even get warm enough. I made my own water bath using a threaded mount heating element from the hardware store and a temperature controller. Drilled a hole in the side of a bucket, stuck the heating element through, siliconed it tight, and wired up the temp controller. I get 0.3 deg C precision and the temp controller learns when to shut off early to prevent overshoot. I've done C-41 and E-6 this way and the results are incredibly consistent I've read about people using an 85º process for C41 development with powder kit chemicals, and claims that the results are just as good. For that temperature, you can use an aquarium heater. Plus since the required times are longer there's a little bit more room for error. I've never really looked into it any further. I built this temperature-controlled bucket that keeps everything at exactly 102º and by god I'm going to use it. SMERSH Mouth fucked around with this message at 17:09 on Feb 15, 2017 |
|
#
?
Feb 15, 2017 17:02
|
|
|
SMERSH Mouth posted:Are you in the northwest? If there was a place like Citizens Photo nearby, I would have less of a need to develop at home, I guess. I live walking distance (less than a mile) from Citizens 
|
|
#
?
Feb 15, 2017 18:54
|
|
|
Citizens also does by-mail development
|
|
#
?
Feb 15, 2017 20:20
|
|
|
ansel autisms posted:Citizens also does by-mail development Yup and its usually less than a week turn around for me.
|
|
#
?
Feb 20, 2017 04:39
|
|
|
The 350mm f/2.8 is a fuckin' boat anchor to lug around, but man it is good times 00000019 by Ben Wilcox, on Flickr 00000018 by Ben Wilcox, on Flickr
|
|
#
?
Feb 27, 2017 21:43
|
|
|
That bird has the same hair I did in the eighth grade. Not a film comment but I can't get over it.
|
|
#
?
Feb 27, 2017 23:55
|
|
|
Do you guys think it's safe to buy a MF camera off of ebay from sellers that ship from Japan? It seems like all the good condition/tested items are shipping from outside the US. I'm afraid of getting burned/having a money pit after my first few shots and I'm getting impatient watching Craigslist like a hawk. I know I want to move into the MF realm for sure, but I still really don't know what to buy. I was about to jump on a Bronica etrsi last weekend that showed up on Craigslist, but after some feedback I think I'm going straight to 6x6/6x7. The Pentax 67 was suggested, which I really like and would probably move into pretty easily, but I also kinda have lust for a Mamiya C330 for the TLR and square format fun. I really just want to get something solid that's not going to need overhauled right off the bat.
|
|
#
?
Feb 28, 2017 00:24
|
|
|
This question is asked every few months and I think the consensus is that cameras from Japan on ebay are an overwhelmingly good bet.
|
|
#
?
Feb 28, 2017 00:28
|
|
|
Lenses from Japan seem to frequently be petri dishes though. Have to carefully inspect them to find one that isn't fungus infested.
|
|
#
?
Feb 28, 2017 01:49
|
|
|
Thinking of a film camera I can take on a kayak trip. There's a non-zero chance it might end up in the drink. Anyone have any experience with a Pentax 90WR? They seem fairly cheap on eBay and are marked water resistant which often means something different based on who said it. Obviously I don't expect one to keep my film dry if it spends any significant time underwater but what would my chances be if it just fell overboard or if I overturned or something like that? I'm guessing it's like a 50/50 unless someone tells me they're literally just good enough for splashes and will definitely leak if submerged for even a split second. I'd prefer not to get one of those clunky underwater cameras but I feel like for $30 I can afford to take a chance. Just wondering if I'm way off base. So I guess I'm trying to figure out whether it's "DIY car sunroof" water resistant (i.e., not at all lol), or "apple watch series 0" water resistant (i.e., we can't guarantee it's waterproof but thousands of people have no problem swimming with it on).
|
|
#
?
Feb 28, 2017 02:16
|
|
|
I remember looking at a couple years ago and I saw them marked as "rain/splash" proof, which told me they shouldn't be submerged. Some quick googling shows a couple people in your situation claiming a quick dunk from boats/kayaks isn't going to kill it though.
|
|
#
?
Feb 28, 2017 02:25
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 26, 2024 20:33 |
|
|
Martytoof posted:Thinking of a film camera I can take on a kayak trip. There's a non-zero chance it might end up in the drink. Anyone have any experience with a Pentax 90WR? They seem fairly cheap on eBay and are marked water resistant which often means something different based on who said it. Obviously I don't expect one to keep my film dry if it spends any significant time underwater but what would my chances be if it just fell overboard or if I overturned or something like that? I'm guessing it's like a 50/50 unless someone tells me they're literally just good enough for splashes and will definitely leak if submerged for even a split second. I'd just get a disposable "underwater camera".
|
|
#
?
Feb 28, 2017 02:47
|
|