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GM at NTB agreed to.compression test but basically said gently caress you to a tear down.
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Feb 16, 2017 20:44
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Tell him it's that or replace the motor outright. Compression testing won't tell you anything about low oil pressure damage and he knows that. If he doesn't play ball I would personally get a lawyer. You have the VW diagnosis to back you up.
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Feb 16, 2017 20:47
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Yep that's bullshit, compression test won't tell you anything you need to know about the situation. I would go to NTB corporate before going to a lawyer, but I'm not sure if that's the best order of escalation. The manager at this point probably does not want to implicate his store or employees, but he needs to face the music.
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Feb 16, 2017 21:00
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NTB wants me to have VW contact them because the NTB guy sounds like a jackass who wants to get VW to say nothing is wrong at this time. Probably not gonna do that. This is escalating at an exciting pace!
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Feb 16, 2017 21:01
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If they won't agree to at least a tear down, and you have comp/coll on the car, file a claim.
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Feb 16, 2017 21:01
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Could a couple minutes really do that much damage?big crush on Chad OMG posted:If they won't agree to at least a tear down, and you have comp/coll on the car, file a claim.
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Feb 16, 2017 21:01
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Also, these conversations are best had in person, in their customer area. But yes, the GM of NTB is trying to blow you off, and you need to push back. Don't be afraid to call corporate from the store either.
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Feb 16, 2017 21:03
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big crush on Chad OMG posted:If they won't agree to at least a tear down, and you have comp/coll on the car, file a claim. My dad is my insurance agent  I dont know if any kind of auto insurance applies to this though.
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Feb 16, 2017 21:04
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Josh Lyman posted:Could a couple minutes really do that much damage? Figure your average engine idles around 800 RPMs, 1600-2400 revolutions of soft metal against steel without enough/any oil is plenty to gently caress things up.
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Feb 16, 2017 21:06
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Cant do an insurance claim on this kinda stuff. Lawyering up.
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Feb 16, 2017 21:25
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Josh Lyman posted:Could a couple minutes really do that much damage? Absolutely. All of the critical friction surfaces in an engine - piston rings against the cylinder wall, cam bearings, crank bearings, and rod bearings - are designed around requiring oil pressure to keep oil between them. These surfaces can be nearly instantly damaged by running with no oil pressure. There's other systems that require oil pressure to work properly (hydraulic valve lifters / adjusters, variable valve timing) but a lack of oil pressure won't necessarily trash them. The metal confetti made by the metal-on-metal happening elsewhere in the engine sure will!
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Feb 16, 2017 21:36
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cr0y posted:Cant do an insurance claim on this kinda stuff. Lawyering up. You absolutely can. The shop has insurance against this. They don't want to involve them because it'll raise their rates but they have to have insurance. A chain like NTB will have a CGL and garage keepers policy.
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Feb 16, 2017 21:40
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cr0y posted:Cant do an insurance claim on this kinda stuff. Lawyering up. Good luck! Have the lawyer draft a letter up to send the GM and I bet they cave. I'd be on a warpath if somebody had oil spewing out of my filter housing with a low pressure light and gave the keys back to me. Especially on a 3 year old car. Also make drat sure you get VW's diagnosis in writing, and soon.
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Feb 16, 2017 21:41
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Lawyers basically said it's hard to proactively sue for damages. So I am going to document the fact that they hosed up and drive the car normally, in the event it breaks I drop the hammer for stupidity. Not ideal, but two different attorneys agreed this is the best course of action.
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Feb 17, 2017 01:30
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That's retarded. Get different attorneys. Do not drive the car! Do not take possession of the car! Holy poo poo how much can we pound this in?
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Feb 17, 2017 01:33
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Have someone pop the valve cover off and inspect the cam lobes? If they're scored there's your damages. Shouldn't cost any more than a valve cover gasket job. poo poo. Would've been better if she drove off and had it die at this point. Adiabatic fucked around with this message at 02:00 on Feb 17, 2017 |
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Feb 17, 2017 01:57
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Car is still in posession of VW at the moment.
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Feb 17, 2017 02:31
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Update: "well if the car is so awesome make me a trade offer"
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Feb 17, 2017 02:33
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VW dealer said this?
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Feb 17, 2017 02:34
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This whole situation makes me feel like I'm not enough of a cutthroat prick for this world.
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Feb 17, 2017 02:37
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Josh Lyman posted:This whole situation makes me feel like I'm not enough of a cutthroat prick for this world. Just a weird creepy one right? (USER WAS PUT ON PROBATION FOR THIS POST)
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Feb 17, 2017 03:10
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Hire an independent mechanic ffs. If oil from the fuckup is there send off for analysis.
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Feb 17, 2017 03:25
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cr0y posted:Update: "well if the car is so awesome make me a trade offer" "If running an engine for a bit with no oil pressure is no biggee, then ima just go loosen all the filters in the cars on your lot. Mk?"
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Feb 17, 2017 03:26
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RE: 1998 Mazda B4000 pickup with a manual My beater truck has started to give me some grief. It's still running well, but the clutch is acting up. The symptom list is getting mixed results from my own deductions, my coworkers, the local tranny shop and the internet. Here's what's happening: -From cold, everything is dandy. Shifts well and clutch operation is normal -After driving between 30 and 60 minutes, it might develop an issue where the clutch pedal has normal resistance feel, but you cannot shift easily. It becomes 'notchy', and if you're stopped at a light, you cannot shift into first with the clutch in. You must stop the engine, shift into gear and then restart. -You can keep the clutch in when it's like this, and it won't grab more as you sit there and eventually stall. The clutch keeps working well enough to not lug or stall. -Pumping the clutch has no effect on function, and feel remains constant -Fluid level is normal, bleeding has had no effect -Sometimes, but not often, that is a clashing/grinding/rattling sound possible from the transmission area. It only lasts a second -On drives longer than an hour or so, a medium pitched howl will develop, but is only present when the clutch is depressed. Driving along in gear causes the howling to stop So, this happened about two years ago, and I assumed slave cylinder failure and noise from the throw out/release bearing, or maybe pilot bearing. I replaced the clutch disc and pressure plate, the pilot bearing, throw out bearing and slave cylinder, and the master cylinder and hydraulic line (because the line fitting at the slave wouldn't come off and I had to cut it). The flywheel looked good, and was given a light once-over by a machine shop. Tell me, do I have a box full of bad parts giving me the same failure as before, or have I never solved the original problem? This truck only sees about 2000 miles/year. It won't be normal wear and tear. But I'm being told to replace the slave cylinder, or the bearings, or the pressure plate, or bleed the master, etc etc. I don't want to just throw parts at it without understanding the issue.
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Feb 17, 2017 03:54
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Symptoms are classic worn master cylinder that leaks when hot, but you said you replaced that.
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Feb 17, 2017 03:56
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It's the loving slave cylinder on the tranny input shaft.
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Feb 17, 2017 04:00
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I think it's the normal slave cylinder. The loving ones haven't been built since the fifties.
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Feb 17, 2017 04:01
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Nope slave. Clutch and tranny heat up and expand. I replaced the slave for barely being able to hit first before I sold it. It is normal, gently caress em.
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Feb 17, 2017 04:03
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Feb 17, 2017 04:04
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God the oilchange saga is a sick nightmare, good luck with that cr0y. I am so thankful I have a place and tools and knowledge so I can do them myself. I tried to convince a friend to let me show him how when he got his brand-new truck, but he was all FREE DEALER OILCHANGES MAN!! which lasted through two, until he witnessed the one of the oil jockeys destroy the passenger side of a new Tundra on a pylon as it came out of the bay. His truck was next in line. He comes to my place now and loves it.
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Feb 17, 2017 04:32
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Alarbus posted:Also, unless you drove your car out of the bay itself, they drove it from the bay to the parking space, presumably with it screaming at them, and then they told you ALL SET BRO. So, that plus however long you had it running. Someone needs to pay for a full teardown of the engine before handing it back to you, and that would probably lead to a new engine. As someone who had over 5 quarts of oil pump directly onto the floor of my garage (I accidentally double-gasketed my oil filter) I can assure you that it rapidly becomes clear SOMETHING IS WRONG. Josh Lyman posted:Could a couple minutes really do that much damage? cr0y posted:Update: "well if the car is so awesome make me a trade offer"  Oh my god.
Godholio fucked around with this message at 06:26 on Feb 17, 2017 |
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Feb 17, 2017 06:22
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One thing I've seen work is complaining on their Yelp, BBB, Facebook, and Twitter pages. Also some companies you can Facebook Message and it gets up the chain pretty quickly. I got my girlfriend's power turned on by bitching in Facebook messenger from several states away.
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Feb 17, 2017 06:46
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On my Fiesta, I'm getting an intermittent fast blinking turn signal. Something is fucky in the rear, but I can't figure out what. The Fiesta here uses the same bulb for the brake light, tail light, and turn signal. When the headlights are on it sits at a low voltage for the tail light, increases to bright for brake, and blinks between high and low V for turn indicator. On the side with the failure, the low V (tail) light portion is fine, but it does not go into the high V mode at all. So it doesn't change brightness and the brake light doesn't trigger nor does the turn indicator on that side. In the front, the indicator will blink rapidly. The bulb seems fine. I've screwed with the connector, cleaned out the contacts, replugged it in several times. It doesn't blink fast ALL the time but seems to inexplicably change from working fine for 5 minutes to malfunctioning for 5 minutes and back to working. The switch between malfunctioning and working does not seem to be tied to a loose connector as it will still fail after reconnecting. I'll buy a new bulb even though the old one seems fine and see if that fixes it. Any other ideas? (read voltage/V as brightness) Michael Scott fucked around with this message at 17:43 on Feb 17, 2017 |
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Feb 17, 2017 17:30
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It's a dual-element bulb, they don't run it at "different voltages".
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Feb 17, 2017 17:40
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Oh are there two different filaments? I'm not sure how they work, was just guessing on the different voltages  Then the new bulb should probably fix. I was just surprised to see a dead filament on a car from 2015. Michael Scott fucked around with this message at 18:17 on Feb 17, 2017 |
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Feb 17, 2017 17:42
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Michael Scott posted:On my Fiesta, I'm getting an intermittent fast blinking turn signal. Something is fucky in the rear, but I can't figure out what. The Fiesta here uses the same bulb for the brake light, tail light, and turn signal. When the headlights are on it sits at a low voltage for the tail light, increases to bright for brake, and blinks between high and low V for turn indicator. Fast flashing is always a sign of a dead filament. Change the bulb.
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Feb 17, 2017 19:06
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What might cause a tyre to lose around 7 kPa (1 psi) per week? A really considerate nail? It’s not just losing pressure due to temperature. It’s definitely actually losing air because it’s only happening to one out of four tyres.
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Feb 17, 2017 19:13
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Platystemon posted:What might cause a tyre to lose around 7 kPa (1 psi) per week? A really considerate nail? That would do it.
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Feb 17, 2017 19:23
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Platystemon posted:What might cause a tyre to lose around 7 kPa (1 psi) per week? A really considerate nail? find the leak with some soapy water - it'll blow bubbles. Also check the valve stem - it can leak where it goes into the wheel, or even from the valve core. also put the wheel flat on the ground, and pour the soapy water around the edge of the rim to check for bead leaks where the tire touches the wheel. There's nothing you can really do about this aside from take it to a shop and have them dismount and grind off any corrosion and use bead sealer to stop that leaking.
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Feb 17, 2017 20:27
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03 protege just started flashing the airbag light while driving. It's just a constant repeated series of six flashes. Should I be concerned? I just got a clutch line and slave cylinder replaced, could they have jostled something to cause this?
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Feb 17, 2017 20:31
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