|
Hello thread so I've done the autocross thing and was looking at possibly doing a trackday or two through Track Night in America this year. So far the things I'm pretty sure I need to get/update on my car ('17 WRX) is better brake fluid and pads. What other things should I look into improving for an event? Currently the car is stock but with good tires. What is the recommended brake fluid to upgrade to?
|
# ? Feb 17, 2017 22:05 |
|
|
# ? May 23, 2024 16:50 |
|
net work error posted:Hello thread so I've done the autocross thing and was looking at possibly doing a trackday or two through Track Night in America this year. At least DOT 4 brake fluid, DOT 5 if you want to be really safe and depending on how good your brakes are vented. I use Motul in my 09 WRX but I'm sure there's a cheaper alternative. SS brake lines would be good while you're doing all this as well. What tires do you have? Honestly with those things you should be fine for your first track day. You'll probably need a helmet (even if it's not required you should wear one), and I recommend gloves if you're a sweaty idiot like me. Don't forget (a lot of) gas money or a gas can!
|
# ? Feb 17, 2017 22:53 |
|
Motul rbf600 is pretty good and not too expensive. Finding a pad that will be drivable on track is a little harder, and depends on the track. In some cases a good performance street pad will survive, in others it's better to swap in a track pad. So you could try something cheap like stoptechs. I have them on my car and have seen them used on track and work. On the other hand i seem to see more and more complaints about them not working well and constantly leaving uneven deposits. Hawk's "new" street-race 5.0 might be a good option, it's a relabled dtc-30. The -60 and -70 are great race pads, but with higher friction and heat capacities. Ferodo and CL also make great pads that i have experience with. The ds2500 and cl rc5 would be my first choices but are more expensive. And i haven't checked on what's available for the wrx. It's not using new shapes so I'd guess most of those.
|
# ? Feb 17, 2017 22:55 |
|
stock fluid should be fine for autocross but you might try motul or ATE for track day fluid. If you think that you'll be bleeding your brakes a lot, replace your bleeders with speedbleeders they are amazing and make it much easier to change your fluid.
|
# ? Feb 17, 2017 22:56 |
|
BraveUlysses posted:If you think that you'll be bleeding your brakes a lot, replace your bleeders with speedbleeders they are amazing and make it much easier to change your fluid. Also, I ran DTC60s for my first two trackdays - they were great. Old fluid did fine. I got stuck behind a 370Z for a few laps and managed to accidentally push him into smoking (literally) his stock brake pads. I would never dream of trying to track stock pads. You can drive the pads on the street... but sounding like a bus gets old fast.
|
# ? Feb 17, 2017 23:31 |
|
i get great joy from driving around in my dump truck brake package in the city and confusing peopleGigi Galli posted:At least DOT 4 brake fluid, DOT 5 if you want to be really safe and depending on how good your brakes are vented. DO NOT MIX DOT5 WITH DOT4. DOT5.1 is what is actually compatible with the other DOT specs.
|
# ? Feb 18, 2017 00:02 |
|
Gigi Galli posted:What tires do you have? I got Pilot Super Sports at a good price at Costco so those are on currently. I don't drive much so they have 0 wear on them still. I also have gloves because I too am a sweaty person. I'll take a look at Ferodos for pads. Assuming I don't want to be a squeaky braker at all times would the right thing be to swap off/on the street pads before and after the event with the better race ones?
|
# ? Feb 18, 2017 01:49 |
|
net work error posted:Hello thread so I've done the autocross thing and was looking at possibly doing a trackday or two through Track Night in America this year. Your fluid should be just fine, considering the age of the car (it's brand new fluid!). Pads might even be OK if you aren't pushing really hard, or are regularly getting stuck in traffic. Wouldn't hurt to throw on a good dual-purpose pad like Hawk HP Plus. Get track-day insurance from Lockton.
|
# ? Feb 18, 2017 02:00 |
|
net work error posted:I got Pilot Super Sports at a good price at Costco so those are on currently. I don't drive much so they have 0 wear on them still. I also have gloves because I too am a sweaty person. If you don't mind doing that than yes, 100%, swap pads before and after. Wouldn't hurt to have a set of rotors to match the pads too. Mark them LF, RF etc. Then you can go for full race pads without thought to how streetable they are. Having a lot of confidence in your brakes makes track days way more fun. Stock style rotors are fine, no need for drilled or slotted. Also full race brake pads dust is hell on wheels. Clean them as soon as you get home. You're fine to drive to and from the track in them though. I'll add my n+1 too for cl, dtc-60s, and the hawk stuff from personal experience. In lighter cars (Hondas) hawks were a good balance, dtcs were better brakes for more downsides, and the cl pads were amazing but horrific for street use. YMMV. That being said I've got hawk hp+ on my street car now. Once you try better brake pads it's hard to go back.
|
# ? Feb 18, 2017 02:35 |
|
net work error posted:I got Pilot Super Sports at a good price at Costco so those are on currently. I don't drive much so they have 0 wear on them still. I also have gloves because I too am a sweaty person. I use Carbotech XP-10s. I tried the XP-8s first, and they felt no different from street pads. The XP-10s were a noticeable step up. They both make the car sound like a bus, which I hate. I also have a track-only set of cheapo rotors from rockauto. I've warped rotors more than once, so I'd hate to buy expensive ones. I swap the pads and rotors before track day and swap back after I get home. It's a pain, but after a few swaps, it takes less than two hours to do all four corners, including getting the car up on jacks and cleaned up after. I have been changing my brake fluid every spring, but I only did one or two track days last year, so I'll probably skip the change this year. I use ATE TYP 200, my car needs about a half-liter per change. For your very first track day, you'll be fine on your stock fluid. You won't be going full tilt on your first day anyway. I haven't yet done steel brake lines, but it's on my todo list. What track(s) are you going to be driving?
|
# ? Feb 18, 2017 17:33 |
|
net work error posted:I got Pilot Super Sports at a good price at Costco so those are on currently. I don't drive much so they have 0 wear on them still. I also have gloves because I too am a sweaty person. The ferodo 2500s are not a full on track pad and will be fine to just drive on the street. You might get some noise but it's not going to be like driving on a cold track pad. Looks like they make them for the 15+ now too (last time I checked, they didn't). There's some thought that for swapping street to track pads and back they should be similar. The track pads will tend to scrub off all the street pad material and then deposit their own layer on the rotors, but the street pads will not be able to do the same. So if the street pad is some completely different kind of compound you can wind up with noisy brakes that don't grab very well. So for example- using the ds2500s on the street and then ds3000s or 1.11s on the track. And as far as Ferodos go, the 1.11 are newer and a better choice for the 3000s on the track, if available. jamal fucked around with this message at 20:45 on Feb 18, 2017 |
# ? Feb 18, 2017 18:48 |
|
Anyone going to Laguna Seca on 6/24 - 6/25?
BlackMK4 fucked around with this message at 21:32 on Feb 18, 2017 |
# ? Feb 18, 2017 21:08 |
|
Is Harry's laptimer still the best budget option for data logging and video recording? My car does not have obd2 since it's too old.
|
# ? Feb 19, 2017 16:18 |
|
A burner Android phone, RaceChrono, and a Bluetooth GPS.
|
# ? Feb 19, 2017 16:27 |
|
jamal posted:There's some thought that for swapping street to track pads and back they should be similar. The track pads will tend to scrub off all the street pad material and then deposit their own layer on the rotors, but the street pads will not be able to do the same. So if the street pad is some completely different kind of compound you can wind up with noisy brakes that don't grab very well. So for example- using the ds2500s on the street and then ds3000s or 1.11s on the track. And as far as Ferodos go, the 1.11 are newer and a better choice for the 3000s on the track, if available. Driving on the track pads cold will also scrape the track pad transfer layer off. So, drive on them on your way home and then swap back to regular pads.
|
# ? Feb 19, 2017 16:42 |
|
That method works best with street pads that don't need bedding. OEM BMW pads are like this. I run DTC60 track pads and textar on the street.
|
# ? Feb 19, 2017 16:48 |
|
Carbotechs are the only pads that are super picky about rotors. Centric blanks are cheap, go for those.
|
# ? Feb 19, 2017 18:52 |
|
Phone posted:A burner Android phone, RaceChrono, and a Bluetooth GPS. I've got a spare android phone but the video quality obviously wont be as good is my ip7, is the racechrono software significantly better than harry's laptimer?
|
# ? Feb 19, 2017 19:26 |
|
It's only $5 for most of the additional features vs $20. Also, it interfaces with RaceRender p good.
|
# ? Feb 19, 2017 19:40 |
|
What do you guys do with rotors that are done? Just throw them in the trash? I have a set of C6 Z06 fronts that were turned and are ok, but I don't think it makes much sense to try to ship something so heavy.
|
# ? Feb 20, 2017 06:02 |
|
Recycle bin
|
# ? Feb 20, 2017 06:42 |
|
They hold the umbrellas in my backyard down.
|
# ? Feb 20, 2017 16:23 |
|
Ammo for the trebuchet.
|
# ? Feb 20, 2017 16:25 |
|
Use them as the base for one time fixtures then recycle. Add exhaust tubing for a heavy bottle rocket stand.
|
# ? Feb 20, 2017 19:06 |
|
In the case of the custom six-lug rotors off of my C10: drive on them for 18 years and 50k+ miles, then sell on Craigslist for $100 If I don't have a future use for them (i.e. I'm not going to save them and have them turned next time I need to do brakes) then they go in the pile for the next time I haul poo poo to the scrapyard.
|
# ? Feb 20, 2017 19:11 |
|
my shop gives me a little discount to let them recycle or use them for bullshit.
|
# ? Feb 20, 2017 19:37 |
|
kimbo305 posted:What do you guys do with rotors that are done? Just throw them in the trash? I have a set of C6 Z06 fronts that were turned and are ok, but I don't think it makes much sense to try to ship something so heavy. There's a metal recycling/buying place across town from me. I've been meaning to stop by and ask if they buy (or just take) rusty ol' rotors.
|
# ? Feb 21, 2017 02:29 |
|
kimbo305 posted:What do you guys do with rotors that are done? Just throw them in the trash? I have a set of C6 Z06 fronts that were turned and are ok, but I don't think it makes much sense to try to ship something so heavy. Throw them in the back of the pickup truck with the other scrap metal and garbage. 6-18 months later (whenever I sell the truck) do a run to the metal recyclable and get a couple bucks for them.
|
# ? Feb 21, 2017 12:42 |
|
.
puberty worked me over fucked around with this message at 04:01 on Jan 4, 2020 |
# ? Mar 29, 2017 23:34 |
|
an umbrella, a fold up chair, a cooler, and a torque wrench
|
# ? Mar 29, 2017 23:36 |
|
Plenty of water/gatorade, and maybe some spare brake pads and stuff to bleed the fluid.
|
# ? Mar 29, 2017 23:52 |
|
When I head to the track I bring a duffel with engine oil, torque wrench, tire pressure gauge, spare key, snacks, water bottle (I've gone through 2 gal in one day before), sun screen, hat... Maybe other stuff I'm forgetting.
|
# ? Mar 30, 2017 02:35 |
|
I bring a 2.5gal container of distilled water and some Gatorade powder. Serves dual uses! Otherwise: Two bags of grass, seventy-five pellets of mescaline, five sheets of high powered blotter acid, a salt shaker half full of cocaine, and a whole galaxy of multi-colored uppers, downers, screamers, laughers... and also a quart of tequila, a quart of rum, a case of Budweiser, a pint of raw ether and two dozen amyls.
|
# ? Mar 30, 2017 06:21 |
|
ColdPie posted:When I head to the track I bring a duffel with engine oil, torque wrench, tire pressure gauge, spare key, snacks, water bottle (I've gone through 2 gal in one day before), sun screen, hat... Maybe other stuff I'm forgetting. + A tarp to sit your stuff on / cover it if it rains and a folding chair.
|
# ? Mar 30, 2017 08:40 |
|
honda whisperer posted:+ A tarp to sit your stuff on / cover it if it rains and a folding chair. The guys with tarps and chairs in the paddock are like several castes above others.
|
# ? Mar 30, 2017 09:43 |
|
Become good friends with those people. They will let you under their ez up. It is not the surface temperature of the sun under the ez up.
|
# ? Mar 30, 2017 09:47 |
|
I also bring a hospital gurney to wheel DJ Commie's effervescing corpse around the paddock.
|
# ? Mar 30, 2017 19:30 |
|
Phone posted:Become good friends with those people. It is still close to the surface temperature of the sun though. But the lack of the sun's rays will help prevent you turning pink. I don't have room in the car for an ez up. I bring heavy duty garbage bags and put my stuff in them if it rains, they take up less room than a tarp. Also included: -8L of water -2L of Gatorade -double the food I think I'm going to need. -sunscreen, spf 50 as I resemble a ghost. -Torque wrench, jack, axle stand, brake fluid, bits to bleed the brakes, small socket set, shop rags. -20L & 10L gas cans, full of non-retarded-priced gas -rain jacket -spare socks and shoes and an extra t-shirt -helmet There's probably more I'm forgetting, I get all of that into a Miata. Use of the passenger seat for gear is required, but it all fits without a trailer or luggage rack.
|
# ? Mar 30, 2017 23:56 |
I figured this would be the place to ask: I am having a chassis built and I would like to do track days with it. I have some options regarding brakes and shocks. Is it worth it to pay the price difference from a standard shock, to Penske double adjustable front and rear at +$1400 or to Penske triple adjustable front and rear with remote reservoirs at +3300? These would come adjusted for the car's roll center and so on if they are installed at build. The same question goes for brakes. The options are Baer Pro+ 14" 6 piston fronts and rears for $4540, Baer Extreme 14" 6 piston monoblock fronts and rears for $7260, or Brembo 14" 6 piston monoblock fronts with 13.5" 4 piston monoblock rears for $8290. All of those are drilled and slotted. Are the upgrades worth the price, assuming that I could buy any of the options without it killing me?
|
|
# ? Mar 31, 2017 00:41 |
|
|
# ? May 23, 2024 16:50 |
|
just casual track days? unless $ really is no object id just go with single adjustables shocks at most and and much less expensive brakes. out of curiosity, what are you having built?
|
# ? Mar 31, 2017 01:26 |