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Speaking of washing cars and paint and stuff, earlier I was washing my 01' ES300 when I noticed these odd black streaks that got everywhere and wouldn't go away. I'd rinse/wipe them off and then they'd be back. It took me forever to figure out that the rubber weather sealing around my driver side door literally melts when it gets wet and it's making it pretty much impossible to wash the car. Is that stuff easy to replace or can it be treated with something?
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Feb 20, 2017 02:50
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If it is actually you rubber door seal, they're usually super easy to pull off and replace. If the rubber is so badly degraded it's coming off in streaks it probably isn't worth trying to save.
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Feb 20, 2017 03:01
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Christobevii3 posted:The Continental DWS might be a good tire then for all season. It is their sporty dry, wet, snow tire. The S will wear to notify they are not recommend for snow anymore. They're utg rated at 560 so won't be monster hard low rolling resistance ones. I had some on my 350z and rode well and wear was long. In a perfect world I would have summer and winter tires but temperatures just bounce around too much here. Especially in Spring and Fall when daytime highs are in the 60s-70s and lows are in the 30s-40s at night. Much like today in the middle of freaking February. I like those DSWs though, thanks. astrollinthepork fucked around with this message at 06:16 on Feb 20, 2017 |
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Feb 20, 2017 06:12
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Geoj posted:A paint shop could mix paint that closely matches whats on your car, but generally if you want it to look good you need to at least shoot the entire panel the damage is on. If they just fix the scratches and paint only the area in the immediate vicinity of the damage you'll be able to tell from probably 5' away or closer. I rechecked the panel. The larger streaks appear to be paint from the dumpster, whereas the finer streaks are paint that's been scraped off the panel. Dropped the car at the shop this morning, fingers crossed. Thank you all for your help! Preoptopus posted:I'm guessing there gonna say replace the panel since it's so close to the line of the car and looks like it's dented . I don't think the panel can even be replaced  
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Feb 20, 2017 12:34
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rear end posted:I rechecked the panel. The larger streaks appear to be paint from the dumpster, whereas the finer streaks are paint that's been scraped off the panel. Dropped the car at the shop this morning, fingers crossed. Thank you all for your help! Plastidip it.
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Feb 20, 2017 13:16
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rear end posted:I rechecked the panel. The larger streaks appear to be paint from the dumpster, whereas the finer streaks are paint that's been scraped off the panel. Dropped the car at the shop this morning, fingers crossed. Thank you all for your help! Replacing it involves cutting it out and welding a new one in. That panel is repairable though. It takes a lot of damage to make it a replace vs a repair job, because of the cutting and welding.
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Feb 20, 2017 14:02
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Pomp and Circumcized posted:Also there is no engine in this car. I love AI 
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Feb 20, 2017 15:08
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Hey y'all. I have a 2006 Nissan Murano SE. The driver door handle snapped. The ridiculous thing is made of plastic... I found one helpful video that shows that the mechanism can be replace fairly simply. However, my model has the smart key entry. I received it used from my uncle and never got a smart key, so I can't use the feature. The smart door handle is an extra $50-$60, and looks like another harness connector is added. My question is: Should I be able to install the "dumb" door handle and leave the harness disconnected? I'd hate to think that if it's disconnected the car freaks out and malfunctions. Thanks everyone! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=J7Bd2BSTGHM
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Feb 20, 2017 15:28
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Reviews for floor jacks on Oreillys and Autozone's websites are pretty bad. Are they all garbage or should I buy something other than the Duralast options for my smaller sedans?
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Feb 20, 2017 18:47
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Is it possible to ID a turbo based solely on casting numbers? I've got a Holset that I'm told came off a dump truck, currently doing duty as a stand mounted jet engine. We're gearing up to redo the control panel and add some more instruments, and I figure having compressor maps and whatnot would be handy. This gallery has all the pics I took the other day. Holset says there should be a stamped data plate, but I don't recall seeing anything like that.
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Feb 20, 2017 19:08
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The Ferret King posted:Reviews for floor jacks on Oreillys and Autozone's websites are pretty bad. Are they all garbage or should I buy something other than the Duralast options for my smaller sedans? I have the cheapest Duralast hydraulic floor jack, it's been living in my trunk for a couple of years. Never had any problems with it aside from not having a whole lot of height. It works fine for getting my car on jack stands, and it's a shitload better for changing a tire than the scissor jack that the car came with. It's fine for a small car, I'd go with a beefier one for a larger car though; it's not the greatest when I use it on my mother's car (Toyota Avalon vs my Saturn). You might check out Harbor Freight and Northern Tool as well.
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Feb 20, 2017 20:22
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I have a 1994 Chevy S-10 pickup. I need a new windshield, due to large crack. I do not have coverage for this with my car insurance. I have never dealt with glass repair or replacement before, so I'm curious if anybody can point me toward any websites or guides for price ranges and comparison shopping. If it helps, I live in Saint Paul, Minnesota.
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Feb 20, 2017 22:00
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Lutha Mahtin posted:I have a 1994 Chevy S-10 pickup. I need a new windshield, due to large crack. I do not have coverage for this with my car insurance. I have never dealt with glass repair or replacement before, so I'm curious if anybody can point me toward any websites or guides for price ranges and comparison shopping. If it helps, I live in Saint Paul, Minnesota. Call a few places and see what they quote you. These guys supposedly will do the work for you.
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Feb 20, 2017 22:06
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Lutha Mahtin posted:I have a 1994 Chevy S-10 pickup. I need a new windshield, due to large crack. I do not have coverage for this with my car insurance. I have never dealt with glass repair or replacement before, so I'm curious if anybody can point me toward any websites or guides for price ranges and comparison shopping. If it helps, I live in Saint Paul, Minnesota. Call safelite to get a baseline quote.
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Feb 20, 2017 22:15
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Yeah, I'm a moron who didn't search online for "windshield replacement cost" first. Safelite gave me a quote of $200 and glass.net had three shops in the $200-240 range. I haven't heard of the shops it turned up though, if that matters.
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Feb 20, 2017 22:35
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The Ferret King posted:Reviews for floor jacks on Oreillys and Autozone's websites are pretty bad. Are they all garbage or should I buy something other than the Duralast options for my smaller sedans? All parts store jacks are all the same and the same as the harbor freight jack stands. Like the exact same jack, just different colors. I sat and compared them all one night while we were dead during closing (O'Reillys). Buy the aluminum racing jack wherever you can get it cheapest (almost certainly harbor freight).
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Feb 20, 2017 22:54
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2007 Toyota Corolla, auto transmission, a little over 100k miles. With no warning, the engine started vibrating roughly while idling. It goes away with a little throttle, there is a slight tapping sound, and there is a small puff of smoke on ignition. All fluids look good, and I didn't see any loose hoses or cables. Any ideas what it could be? e: forgot to mention, NO Check Engine light. (I checked Torque to see if I could spy anything wonky in the sensor readings, but found out my OBD2 scanner is busted. Sad!) GOD IS BED fucked around with this message at 00:24 on Feb 21, 2017 |
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Feb 20, 2017 22:57
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What color smoke? Its possible the two are unrelated - are you 100% certain this is the first time you've seen smoke out the tailpipe on startup?
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Feb 20, 2017 23:00
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Can't say for sure that I've never seen smoke before. It was a lighter color, but so brief I couldn't tell if it was white or light gray.
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Feb 20, 2017 23:25
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GOD IS BED posted:Can't say for sure that I've never seen smoke before. It was a lighter color, but so brief I couldn't tell if it was white or light gray. Is the oil dipstick fully seated down?
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Feb 20, 2017 23:28
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yup. oil was clean and full, too.
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Feb 21, 2017 00:08
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Cop Porn Popper posted:Buy the aluminum racing jack wherever you can get it cheapest (almost certainly harbor freight). Am I the only one who doesn't like those? They always seem rickety, and the lightness isn't really a feature for a floor jack. Maybe if you're actually taking it to the track every weekend. They're not much less expensive than the big beefy steel 3-ton ones, which seem like a better deal to me.
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Feb 21, 2017 00:17
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No, you're not. Now granted mine is an older one (before they added quick-pump to everything) but it makes some really disconcerting creaking noises if I try to use it to lift a vehicle by itself. It is absolutely very useful as a second floor jack, and I grabbed it once when I had to go change a tire on the wife's CR-V. Any hydraulic is way better than a screw jack.
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Feb 21, 2017 00:19
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GOD IS BED posted:yup. oil was clean and full, too. Without anything else to go on I would hazard a guess the smoke you saw was water vapor, which is fairly common on startup especially if its cold. As far as the increased vibration goes - you probably have a worn out engine mount. Its hard to imagine a scenario in which you have increased vibration and smoke being caused by the same issue that isn't followed shortly thereafter by catastrophic failure.
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Feb 21, 2017 01:13
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I know it's not remotely the same engine but when my Lexus (1MZ-FE) picked up some odd vibrations at idle, cleaning the EGR smoothed it back out. Worth a try as it's pretty easy to do.
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Feb 21, 2017 01:15
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GOD IS BED posted:2007 Toyota Corolla, auto transmission, a little over 100k miles. With no warning, the engine started vibrating roughly while idling. It goes away with a little throttle, there is a slight tapping sound, and there is a small puff of smoke on ignition. All fluids look good, and I didn't see any loose hoses or cables. Any ideas what it could be? Check your engine mounts. Probably the top or bottom is rotting out the bushing inside. Puff of smoke could be a leaky injector. I'd get the coolant checked for head gasket leak to rule that out.
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Feb 21, 2017 02:40
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Hey guys I wanted to know if its possible to customize an old car computer? I'm asking because I always heard about "chips", but who makes the chips? How do they know how to modify the computer?? I know you can play the the computer on a OBD II GM with the scan tool, but what about old cars like an 80's ford that has less computing power than a NES cartage? How come in all the "tuner" movies they have a laptop?
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Feb 21, 2017 04:09
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It depends entirely on what hardware lives in the computer, and whether or not anyone has figured out how to reprogram it. Old GM computers used PROMs that I think had to be either removed to be reburned, or replaced with one that was writeable at all. Current (LS1+) GM computers are ridiculously easy to reprogram. The poo poo in the middle is either difficult (LT1) or nearly impossible (L31) to do anything useful with. In this day and age, unless you have a very good reason to keep the factory computer, you'd be better off going with Megasquirt or Speeduino or some developed aftermarket system, rather than trying to reinvent the wheel.
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Feb 21, 2017 04:14
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GOD IS BED posted:2007 Toyota Corolla, auto transmission, a little over 100k miles. With no warning, the engine started vibrating roughly while idling. It goes away with a little throttle, there is a slight tapping sound, and there is a small puff of smoke on ignition. All fluids look good, and I didn't see any loose hoses or cables. Any ideas what it could be? Geoj posted:Without anything else to go on I would hazard a guess the smoke you saw was water vapor, which is fairly common on startup especially if its cold Can I ask a few questions: Is the car idling rough in Park and Drive? Does the tapping get faster when you push on the accelerator? Autozone/pepboys/Advacnedauto will do a OBD II scan for you for free I think?
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Feb 21, 2017 04:22
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bikesonyx posted:Hey guys I wanted to know if its possible to customize an old car computer? I'm asking because I always heard about "chips", but who makes the chips? How do they know how to modify the computer?? IOwnCalculus posted:It depends entirely on what hardware lives in the computer, and whether or not anyone has figured out how to reprogram it. Old GM computers used PROMs that I think had to be either removed to be reburned, or replaced with one that was writeable at all. Current (LS1+) GM computers are ridiculously easy to reprogram. The poo poo in the middle is either difficult (LT1) or nearly impossible (L31) to do anything useful with. Johnny 5 need input!!! Do you have any more information on this?
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Feb 21, 2017 04:25
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bikesonyx posted:Can I ask a few questions: The tapping seems consistent with engine speed, yes. It may be normal noise though, because the idle is doing fine now. I really think I'm a goofus and forgot that I had the battery unhooked for a few hours when I installed a new radio yesterday. The ecu seems to have relearned how to not suck, and the car idles fine now. e: tapping went away when the engine warmed up. I'm a goofus. GOD IS BED fucked around with this message at 04:47 on Feb 21, 2017 |
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Feb 21, 2017 04:39
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bikesonyx posted:Johnny 5 need input!!! Do you have any more information on this? It depends enormously on the make and year. Computing power in cars changed rapidly through the years. One of the reasons that '80s cars are such a nightmare of vacuum lines is that they were essentially acting as an analog computer, turning various things on and off as the conditions warranted. That got replaced by sensors and electronics through the '90s. That makes it kind of difficult to do much with old cars' computers, because they just didn't do or control all that much. Today it's a different story. The ECU runs everything, and what used to be done with vacuum is now done with solenoids and servos.
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Feb 21, 2017 04:45
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2004 Ford F-150, 96k miles, V8. My passenger side rear light assembly is having some issues. Running light turns on. Brake light doesn't work. Turn signal doesn't work. Hazard light doesn't work. Reverse light doesn't work. Everywhere else is working as normal - turn signals work, hazards work, brake lights work, reverse light works. Checked my fuses, replaced bulbs, no change. Reading online from other people has made it sound like an issue with the multifunction switch inside the steering column coming loose and to test it, raise and lower the steering wheel with the turn signal on. I've done so, no change. Picking up a multimeter tomorrow to see if I'm getting power to the light socket or not. What else can I check before I take this to a mechanic? I'm not really loving the idea of driving around for a while with half my brake lights and turn signals not working while I dick around with this for a couple hours after work. Edit - drove to work this morning (Tuesday 2/21) and the cruise control doesn't work. All my problems seem to be coming from the steering column, figure that's as good of a place to start as any. Time to see what Google says. americanzero4128 fucked around with this message at 14:57 on Feb 21, 2017 |
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Feb 21, 2017 04:46
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GOD IS BED posted:The tapping seems consistent with engine speed, yes. It may be normal noise though, because the idle is doing fine now. Go check your oil anyways. You might need to top up.
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Feb 21, 2017 05:28
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americanzero4128 posted:2004 Ford F-150, 96k miles, V8. The multifunction switch won't affect the reverse light, only the brake/turn/hazard.
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Feb 21, 2017 07:24
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2005 Honda Accord 4cyl 2.4L manual transmission 154k miles So today I went out and started my car 10 minutes before leaving for work to let her warm up. I hopped in and began my commute. The first red light I came to, I put it in neutral and I felt her rumble a couple time before stalling out. I start her back up and keep on going. The next red light the same thing happens. However, this time I notice the RPMs dropped to 250ish 2-3 times before finally cutting. Both times it stalled out within 15-20 sec of being idle in neutral She tried to do the same thing a couple more times; however I was able to prevent her from stalling by revving the engine. Another 2-3 times when I was at a full stop, it was fine. When I got to work, I sat idle for about 2 minutes without stalling. One thing to note: I changed the air filter yesterday. When I changed it, there were quite a few dead leaves. I thought I did a pretty good job of cleaning it out, though. My knowledge is pretty limited in car maintenance and repair; however the coincidence of changing air filter and my car seemingly 'choking' within 24 hours seems fishy. Is it possible that these two events are related? If not, what else can it be? How can I further diagnose/fix?
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Feb 21, 2017 14:48
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Check everything between the air box and throttle body. Sounds like you have a major vacuum leak somewhere.
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Feb 21, 2017 15:09
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I have a 97 M3 and getting a weird bit of "play" when I made slow turns. The last couple of days I noticed a bit of "lag" at times when turning the wheel and there is a bit of extra resistance - but nothing major. No sound, or any indication that something is out of place. But it feels wrong. I just had most of the front-end (tie rods, control arms, bushings) replaced a few months ago and have only put on about 350 miles since then. I have an appointment in a few days to get my car inspected anyway, but wanted to know if there is anything I can point out to my mechanic. Or could it be something simple like power steering fluid is low?
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Feb 21, 2017 16:15
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AIIAZNSK8ER posted:Hey y'all. I have a 2006 Nissan Murano SE. The driver door handle snapped. The ridiculous thing is made of plastic... I found one helpful video that shows that the mechanism can be replace fairly simply. However, my model has the smart key entry. I received it used from my uncle and never got a smart key, so I can't use the feature. The smart door handle is an extra $50-$60, and looks like another harness connector is added. You can definitely install the dumb door handle and have a completely functional dumb door. Unfortunately it's a Nissan, so all bets are off when it comes to it not breaking something else or creating additional problems. You may want to check a Nissan forum and/or bribe a Nissan tech with some brownies to confirm. edit: I'm trying to find the article where the Nissan owner needed a new transmission to fix their malfunctioning wing mirrors.
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Feb 21, 2017 17:36
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Geoj posted:Check everything between the air box and throttle body. Sounds like you have a major vacuum leak somewhere. Thanks. This thing was loose. Not sure what it is, but hopefully putting it back on fixes the issue http://m.imgur.com/a/jAPBw
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Feb 21, 2017 17:42
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