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As always, cell phone photos don't do it justice. I've never really tried painting almost exclusively grayscale, overall I like how it came out. Looks especially bad with the lighting / phone actually but in person it's much easier to differentiate the details, shading, silver highlights on the armor trim etc. I do need to look up a "lava base tutorial" and fix that up though. Not pleased with how that came out.
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Feb 20, 2017 19:30
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Sorastro has an excellent video tutorial for lava bases, very similar to what you have done here. https://youtu.be/hudimWrlbVQ
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Feb 20, 2017 19:47
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JoshTheStampede posted:Wyrmwood games also makes a fancy wooden padded case designed to carry exactly one miniature, if you really want to spend too much money on it. Those are actually cheaper than I thought they would be at $24, but more than I want to spend. Nice to know they exist at least.
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Feb 20, 2017 20:18
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drat that looks incredible. I wish I had the money or the space for an airbrush setup. Also, I've never heard of this guy but this is a great video. There's just so much "lovely metal over a sped up version of me painting a mini with no or minimal explanation" on YouTube. Sab669 fucked around with this message at 20:28 on Feb 20, 2017 |
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Feb 20, 2017 20:21
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Sab669 posted:drat that looks incredible. Badger airbrushes are reaching $70 (need a compressor separately though) and below, and Master Airbrush ones (solid quality chinese knockoffs of Badger airbrushes) sell a combo brush + compressor pack for $50. So long as you're spraying acrylics you only need a cardboard box, a thin paper filter, and any housefan. As I constantly repeat annoyingly, airbrushing has never been cheaper than it is now.
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Feb 20, 2017 20:35
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One more question for the thread today. I have a kobold bard character that just acquired a warg and I would love to make an accompanying mini. I doubt I am going to find a kobold mini mounted on anything, so what are you favorite small humanoid mounted on dog like creature miniatures that you are aware of? I am going to have to probably get a mounted goblin or halfling or something and mod the figure.
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Feb 20, 2017 20:43
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Neurolimal posted:As I constantly repeat annoyingly, airbrushing has never been cheaper than it is now. The primary issue is that I owe $400 on my taxes this year 
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Feb 20, 2017 21:30
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Sab669 posted:The primary issue is that I owe $400 on my taxes this year Ouch, I'm sorry to hear that man , I hope you get things sorted out, and this hobby will only get cheaper and cheaper with time.
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Feb 20, 2017 21:33
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nesbit37 posted:One more question for the thread today. I have a kobold bard character that just acquired a warg and I would love to make an accompanying mini. I doubt I am going to find a kobold mini mounted on anything, so what are you favorite small humanoid mounted on dog like creature miniatures that you are aware of? I am going to have to probably get a mounted goblin or halfling or something and mod the figure. My proposal is that instead of converting something to be mounted you mount both your character and the warg to one base as if they are dismounted and fighting. The only reason I say this is because basically no one makes good mounted kobold minis and few people make good kobolds at all, so you're looking at buying expensive mounted goblins from someone like GW (holy poo poo the mounted LotR Warg Orc Characters, who would be perfect for conversions, are loving 40 dollars a pop!) and then getting a small kobold head from somewhere (probably clipped from a Reaper one) and attaching it which is going to be time consuming and cost $$$. On the dismounted hand you can buy the bones warg for like four bucks and then spend 15 on something like this guy: http://www.darkswordminiatures.com/shop/index.php/miniatures/visions-in-fantasy-critters/horned-toad-assassin-with-crossbow.html
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Feb 20, 2017 21:35
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Wazzu posted:
From the pics of his base I see that some wash dripped down which is a hint that his brush was loaded. As a beginner, keeping your brush in a constant state of being able to take back applied wash is critical. One thing I do is work section by section and go back an absorb all the wash from the flat spots and edges where they shouldn't be. I think also his wash was watered down too much because getting the wash to stay on flat parts is actually tough. Shake the bottle to mix it back up really well and see how that goes. The dark brown looks like it transitioned into a subglaze where the surface tension is gone from the paint.
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Feb 20, 2017 21:42
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El Estrago Bonito posted:My proposal is that instead of converting something to be mounted you mount both your character and the warg to one base as if they are dismounted and fighting. The only reason I say this is because basically no one makes good mounted kobold minis and few people make good kobolds at all, so you're looking at buying expensive mounted goblins from someone like GW (holy poo poo the mounted LotR Warg Orc Characters, who would be perfect for conversions, are loving 40 dollars a pop!) and then getting a small kobold head from somewhere (probably clipped from a Reaper one) and attaching it which is going to be time consuming and cost $$$. That's a great idea, think I will do, thanks.
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Feb 20, 2017 21:59
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Ditched the fenrisian grey, added glows and highlights and a bit of gold. I feel a little bit more confident in shading and stuff, but I'm still working on reeling it in and not overdoing stuff. Sorry for the cell phone pics, the camera doesn't do it much justice.  
Kabuki Shipoopi fucked around with this message at 22:06 on Feb 20, 2017 |
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Feb 20, 2017 22:02
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nesbit37 posted:What is the smallest miniature transport case you are all aware of? When I go to cons for D&D I only need 1 or 2 miniatures, and I don't want to mess up their paint jobs but I don't want to carry around something the size of a text book just for them either. Was thinking about maybe just getting an extra one of those dice cubes and stuffing some foam in it if there isn't already a decent small commercial option. I've used these for transporting single minis. I just wrap the mini in some foam from a blister pack and it keeps it plenty safe.
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Feb 21, 2017 00:47
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Kabuki Shipoopi posted:Ditched the fenrisian grey, added glows and highlights and a bit of gold. I feel a little bit more confident in shading and stuff, but I'm still working on reeling it in and not overdoing stuff. Verrrrry nice. I love the OSL all over this model. Isn't this one of your first minis? That's insane, this is great work.
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Feb 21, 2017 02:09
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 thanks! It is my very first. What is OSL? I've just been looking at pictures of stuff I want to incorporate into my paint scheme and fumble through it until it either looks right, or I convince myself any gently caress ups worked out.
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Feb 21, 2017 02:31
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Kabuki Shipoopi posted:
OSL is Object Source Lighting, aka glowy bits. Some people go super crazy on it, others go more subdued. There's a ton of tutorials out there for it. You've got a good eye for it, going off the model. It's a bit rough in places--namely, the red/white in the barrel--but considering that you'll be seeing the model from three-odd feet away it's completely fine and likely looks great at a distance. Practice and experimentation will grind away any problems, in time. Keep it up!
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Feb 21, 2017 02:41
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I am still scrub as gently caress at painting minis, but I am quite enjoying doing these so far. The first few    The most recent  I am actually quite pleased with my lenses so far 
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Feb 21, 2017 05:41
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I really dig the lenses, and I love that color on tau. Did you just lighten the base color for the highlights?
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Feb 21, 2017 05:55
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Kabuki Shipoopi posted:Did you just lighten the base color for the highlights? yep, I just have a handful of colours at the moment.
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Feb 21, 2017 06:02
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Uh, wow. You really had a drastic improvement from the first few. Nice job. I'm hoping I hit that level myself by going through them all. :/
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Feb 21, 2017 06:36
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 Babby's first scratchbuild/kitbash. Pleased with how the scratchbuild process went by and large, but the paint job is a bit fucky. I really need an airbrush for things this size.
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Feb 21, 2017 10:25
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I broke out the Patriot for the first time this weekend and I noticed that there was a lot of air leakage on it - by way of contrast, the cheap Chinese brush I got with my Master compressor is completely airtight. I'm a little disappointed. I can use plumber's tape to seal the connection where the airhose attaches to the brush, but how do I deal with the leakage from the nozzle and head? The threads are way too small to apply tape to. Also, what needle comes with the brush out of the box? Is it a medium?
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Feb 21, 2017 14:44
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Hmm. I haven't had that issue with my Patriot. E-mail Badger and ask them about it. There might be an easy fix. If not, send it in. They'll only charge you the cost of parts (and it'll be at cheaper-than-retail rates on them).
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Feb 21, 2017 14:55
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JackMann posted:Hmm. I haven't had that issue with my Patriot. Thanks for the advice, but that's pretty crappy service on Badger's part, in my opinion. I've got a brand new airbrush that leaks, so my only option is to pay to mail it it, pay for the replacement part(s), then pay $12 to have it returned? I paid $60 for the brush, so now I'm going to pay at half that again to get a brush that works like it is supposed to? At that point, I'd rather go back to my Master brush, chuck the Patriot in the trash, and never buy Badger again. Maybe I'll bring it to Adepticon and see if they will look at it there.
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Feb 21, 2017 15:38
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If its new just ask for a replacement from wherever you got it Or just ask badger, if its never been used i cant imagine they're going to charge you. Just email them, its free
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Feb 21, 2017 16:07
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Badger claims it tests the units before shipping and there's a card in mine that came with a bunch of supposed employee signatures that do the QC. Is it all a sham?
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Feb 21, 2017 16:16
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Chill la Chill posted:Badger claims it tests the units before shipping and there's a card in mine that came with a bunch of supposed employee signatures that do the QC. Is it all a sham? It's possible for the unit to have been fine at production, but over time in a warehouse pressure, temperature, orrl just age could warp the rubber seals. My cheapo airbrush worked fine for a while, but from liquids seeping in the glue connecting the metal screwcap and rubber hose of the air tube separated, which meant it would randomly and violently pop off the airbrush (luckily it was just a matter of gluing them back together).
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Feb 21, 2017 16:20
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Badgers qc is pretty nuts from what I'm aware of. I'd return it for a new one if that's easy enough. Otherwise just contact them. If you just bought it they'll likely deal with it properly.
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Feb 21, 2017 16:53
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If anyone is interested, I threw up a small Wrath of Kings: Hadross force on eBay i've had sitting around and i'm not going to paint.
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Feb 21, 2017 17:12
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berzerkmonkey posted:The threads are way too small to apply tape to. They do make liquid thread sealers that would be easier for small areas.
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Feb 21, 2017 17:49
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darnon posted:They do make liquid thread sealers that would be easier for small areas. In particular, Vallejo sells liquid mask, its in the same sort of bottle as their paints, usually at the bottom of the paint rack if it wasn't put with the non-paint resources in your nearby hobby store. E: lol didnt realize this was related to the faulty airbrush, leaving it anyways because the stuff is really nice and everyone should know about it.
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Feb 21, 2017 17:50
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Just got done watching this video talking about getting started airbrushing. With taxes coming back, I'm gonna have some extra money to fart around with, and I was thinking of picking up a setup. I know I'm not looking to do a ton of work on the regular, just mostly banging out priming, basecoating and maybe some OSL on my Warmahordes Ret army, so I don't want to drop tons of money for something that's not going to see extreme use. From watching the video, what I feel I should probably be using would be a dual-action gravity feed brush with a tankless compressor. For airbrushes, just from lurking I know people tend to recommend the Badger Patriot 105 quite a bit, though there was that one gent upthread who was just saying he had problems with it. If that's a particularly common problem, I'm not so sure I'd really want to pick one of those guys up. On the topic of the compressor, I don't really have a ton of free space inside the apartment I'm in to have a dedicated room, so I'd appreciate something that is either quiet enough to not disturb the neighbors or portable enough to be able to pop outside on nicer days and spray there. Any recommendations/horror stories/brands to avoid?
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Feb 21, 2017 18:54
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I would highly recommend one of the Master compressor/airbrush bundles. You can find them on Ebay or Amazon and they are usually around $100 US. In my experience, the compressor is relatively quiet (you might want to get some of that rubber jigsaw mat to cut down on any vibration if you live on an upper floor) and the brushes are great for priming and basecoating. In addition, the needle is contained within the unit (unlike the Patriot,) so you don't run the risk of accidentally banging it against something and bending the tip (tee hee.) Master also makes an aiirbrush booth that works great and folds up nice and small. You'll have a much better time airbrushing indoors, than trying to fight the weather on a patio. Don't go crazy with an expensive compressor or complicated brush if you're just starting out and only want to do the basics. Unrelated note - I discovered that GW's Leadbelcher is pretty close to bare metal. It was enjoyable to prime black, then turn my models back to almost the original bare metal color they were before I started. 
berzerkmonkey fucked around with this message at 19:06 on Feb 21, 2017 |
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Feb 21, 2017 19:04
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Held off on answering because at this point I probably sound like a Master shill, but yeah; it's a very good starter brush based off a durable Badger brush, and when you upgrade to a better brush it will still be kicking around for dual-color work because of how simple its build is (disassembled for deep cleaning you have four parts: the body, the needle, the needle chuck, and the cap. 5 if you count the trigger that can sometimes get gunked if you mess up thinning paint). The compressor itself is great if you dont mind a small tank, and the bundle one comes with all the addons people usually recommend you get.
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Feb 21, 2017 19:09
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I've recently "graduated" from an Iwata Neo to a Badger Patriot. I still use the Neo for every miniature. It's what I use for my gloss and matte varnishing. That stuff's so nasty and dries so hard I'd rather not risk my more expensive airbrush.
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Feb 21, 2017 19:13
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Kabuki Shipoopi posted:
Chipping in an unrelated comment - it's usually good practice to clear the seams, as they can really detract from the look of a model. For GW's stuff, this is really easy, you run a bead of plastic glue into the seam as you're holding the parts really close, then press the parts together, hard. A bead of melted plastic will ooze out and you can sand that off. Usually sorts out 90-95% of the seamline. Any remainder can be filled with greenstuff, putty or a mixture of superglue and talcum powder.
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Feb 21, 2017 19:29
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Airbrushing is why I'm considering buying metallic paints again, since I can still keep it away from infecting all my normal paints and brushes. Airbrushing is nice. I think my Patriot 105 might have the same problem with the leak since the compressor starts and stops for short periods with no use after a while, but I don't really mind it. The normal operation is fine.
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Feb 21, 2017 19:33
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Thanks for the advice, guys, and once I get paid, I'll look around and see what I can get for the budget I want to spend. quote:Don't go crazy with an expensive compressor or complicated brush if you're just starting out and only want to do the basics.
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Feb 21, 2017 20:53
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Z the IVth posted:Chipping in an unrelated comment - it's usually good practice to clear the seams, as they can really detract from the look of a model. For GW's stuff, this is really easy, you run a bead of plastic glue into the seam as you're holding the parts really close, then press the parts together, hard. A bead of melted plastic will ooze out and you can sand that off. Usually sorts out 90-95% of the seamline. Any remainder can be filled with greenstuff, putty or a mixture of superglue and talcum powder. Thanks for the tips! I'll try to keep that in mind when I build more stuff. I bought the riptide used and pre-primed and I admittedly wanted to dive into painting it.  I think my other stuff came out alright seam wise, I'm gonna go over it again now that you mention this.
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Feb 21, 2017 23:09
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Putting finishing touches on my terminator captain. I've only been doing this since Christmas but I'm feeling a bit more confident. I need to work on my edge highlighting and start playing with proper blending.
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Feb 22, 2017 02:36
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