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evil_bunnY posted:Yes that's what 3D helis do. Why'd you want one for AP tho? Yeah, I'm aware of what 3D helis do. I just found that particular video to be pretty neat. I'm looking into autonomous helis as they actually seem to be kind of a 'do-it-all' machines. You can get decent endurance (~50mins on a 800 size) along with good payload capability. In addition, you get very good wind resistance. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gj_IASNs5cQ https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9QSMd-j_J7I On top of that helis are cool and it would be a fun project!.
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Feb 13, 2017 10:36
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| # ? Jun 3, 2024 08:39 |
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evil_bunnY posted:Yes that's what 3D helis do. Why'd you want one for AP tho? In my experience all 3d helis do are slam into the ground.
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Feb 13, 2017 17:24
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They can also lop your skull clean in two, like a South Park Canadian, play safe chopper friends!
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Feb 13, 2017 17:35
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 back and now without catching on fire hovers ok.. flying acro LOS is hard. too dark to try to fpv. probably try to fpv tomorrow 
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Feb 14, 2017 05:53
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What props are those? Never seen the hex shape molded in like that.
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Feb 14, 2017 06:02
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My Rhythmic Crotch posted:What props are those? Never seen the hex shape molded in like that. http://store.rotorriot.com/hq-prop-6045-props-pair-black/
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Feb 14, 2017 06:03
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First FPV flight went well, everything very smooth... just need to go to a bigger open space for some more intense flying all my poo poo in one place
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Feb 16, 2017 03:42
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Who was asking about the Pagoda antenna? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Zta0neVS9bw tl;dr, The pagoda won. However, until I find out how well it'll do when filled with hotglue, I probably wont buy one. Also just bought a Protos 500 today and will soon be FPV'ing it 
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Feb 16, 2017 20:30
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I started running some new higher powered motors on my quad and the result was a lot of thrust with warm, puffy batteries and nonstop voltage alarms. I had been running DAL V2 5x45x3 bullnose props so I switched out to Racekraft 5x4x3 and I'm loving the results. Not as much punch to recover from dives, but I feel like my sticks are way more sensitive now in a good way, and the quad moves a lot more smoothly. Propwash is all but eliminated and the best part: an extra minute of flight time and batteries that end the same shape as they started. I had been on a hunt for ultimate power and thrust, thinking everything else would improve around it, but I'm loving all the benefits of going back to a more efficient design. They seem pretty durable as well.
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Feb 16, 2017 22:40
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ImplicitAssembler posted:Who was asking about the Pagoda antenna? Yeah I watched that earlier today, impressed how well it did. Usually those tests are ehhhhhhh at best, with a winner barely squeaking by.
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Feb 16, 2017 22:51
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McMadCow posted:I started running some new higher powered motors on my quad and the result was a lot of thrust with warm, puffy batteries and nonstop voltage alarms. I had been running DAL V2 5x45x3 bullnose props so I switched out to Racekraft 5x4x3 and I'm loving the results. Not as much punch to recover from dives, but I feel like my sticks are way more sensitive now in a good way, and the quad moves a lot more smoothly. Propwash is all but eliminated and the best part: an extra minute of flight time and batteries that end the same shape as they started. I had been on a hunt for ultimate power and thrust, thinking everything else would improve around it, but I'm loving all the benefits of going back to a more efficient design. They seem pretty durable as well. If you're actually puffing batteries you should really consider an OSD
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Feb 16, 2017 23:08
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Google Butt posted:If you're actually puffing batteries you should really consider an OSD I run a MinimOSD Micro, and it shows real-time voltage as well as battery alarm. The puffing is minor, for sure, but it always happened even without torturing the batteries with nonstop punchouts. I had always assumed people just dealt with a little bit of puffing to get the real high speeds.
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Feb 16, 2017 23:15
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McMadCow posted:I run a MinimOSD Micro, and it shows real-time voltage as well as battery alarm. The puffing is minor, for sure, but it always happened even without torturing the batteries with nonstop punchouts. I had always assumed people just dealt with a little bit of puffing to get the real high speeds. What batteries and how many amps on punch outs? Google Butt fucked around with this message at 23:19 on Feb 16, 2017 |
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Feb 16, 2017 23:16
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Google Butt posted:What batteries and how many amps on punch outs? Lumenier Graphene 4s 1300 80C Tattu 4s 1300 75C Venom 4s 1300 75C ThunderPower Adrenaline 4s 1300 80C As stated, the props were DAL V2 Bullnose Motors are Gartt 2205 2300KV I don't know the amount of amps on punchouts, not running a current meter (Spektrum) EDIT: The Tattu used to sag the most on punchouts and get the shortest flight time, but I swear it never puffed even once. I've had a few of their batteries and they're really super tough. McMadCow fucked around with this message at 23:26 on Feb 16, 2017 |
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Feb 16, 2017 23:23
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ImplicitAssembler posted:Who was asking about the Pagoda antenna? I use this pair of antennas on my Diversity RX, one of which is a Pagoda-style, but cased: http://menacerc.co.uk/product/raptor http://menacerc.co.uk/product/invader-antenna-5-8ghz-polarized-receiver-patch They work great. New airframe arrived today: http://www.banggood.com/X-uav-Mini-..._content=227736 ... it's going to be a medium range FPV plane, probably with pan/tilt and possible headtracking eventually. Going to take my time building this one, and I think i'm going to use an Eagletree Vector autopilot/OSD. Can carry a huge amount of battery, I'm going to start with a 5200mAh 4S.
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Feb 17, 2017 10:23
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DveALWVWCYc I finally got to fly for realsies.
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Feb 19, 2017 16:23
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McMadCow posted:I started running some new higher powered motors on my quad and the result was a lot of thrust with warm, puffy batteries and nonstop voltage alarms. I had been running DAL V2 5x45x3 bullnose props so I switched out to Racekraft 5x4x3 and I'm loving the results. Not as much punch to recover from dives, but I feel like my sticks are way more sensitive now in a good way, and the quad moves a lot more smoothly. Propwash is all but eliminated and the best part: an extra minute of flight time and batteries that end the same shape as they started. I had been on a hunt for ultimate power and thrust, thinking everything else would improve around it, but I'm loving all the benefits of going back to a more efficient design. They seem pretty durable as well. McMadCow posted:I run a MinimOSD Micro, and it shows real-time voltage as well as battery alarm. The puffing is minor, for sure, but it always happened even without torturing the batteries with nonstop punchouts. I had always assumed people just dealt with a little bit of puffing to get the real high speeds.
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Feb 19, 2017 18:37
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Anybody have opinions on 3" frames? I managed to destroy an arm on my Rasvelg in about 30 flights.
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Feb 19, 2017 22:57
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Yoooooo KISS is fuckin' good. I finally got to put this v1 AIO thingy through some tests today and it's all just so smooth and quiet. And takes off like a god drat rocket. The ends of flips and rolls feel different too, just nicer, I don't know. Less bitey? There are puddles and mud everywhere so I didn't do any FPV, just a bunch of LOS over the least soggy ground I could find. I'm super excited to see what FPV looks like in this thing. Weather sucks.  RCX 1304-4000kv motors DYS 3045 t mount props Kiss AIO v1 8a newest FC firmware but have not updated ESCs to the DSHOT version yet. Team Legit ZMR150 base plate/custom top LT200 VTX / FuriousFPV microcam Tattu 450mah 4s AUW: 202g I have a v2 AIO as well, but it's going to be a 3.5" stretch X setup with a built in mobius mini. bring back old gbs fucked around with this message at 23:03 on Feb 19, 2017 |
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Feb 19, 2017 23:00
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If I solder an LED to the dedicated buzzer pads on my FC, will it blink if I have the low voltage warning set up in BF?
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Feb 19, 2017 23:08
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What's the expected voltage at the buzzer pads? What's the signal that comes out? (theoretically yes, but you will probably need at least a resistor and maybe some other stuff too)
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Feb 20, 2017 05:37
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Sagebrush posted:What's the expected voltage at the buzzer pads? What's the signal that comes out? I figured it out and it works great, thanks. I do have another issue now, I have a solid red led on my FC (Piko BLX). It communicates with my PC fine, arms and flies fine. Anyone know what's up with that?
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Feb 20, 2017 08:07
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Google Butt posted:I figured it out and it works great, thanks. Doesn't that just show that your Transmitter and Reciever are bound? That's what a cursory glance at the manual tells me.
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Feb 20, 2017 12:43
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It feels nice to day dream about flying around like a bird but actually I'm just remembering last weekend.
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Feb 20, 2017 21:28
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My Rhythmic Crotch posted:Anybody have opinions on 3" frames? I managed to destroy an arm on my Rasvelg in about 30 flights. I have a Lantian LT130 that I like a lot. Looks like it has beefier arms than that one and it's been super durable through countless crashes for me. I don't think it's quite apples-to-apples though, because mine is set up with 1104 motors and low-pitch props for indoor flying. So it gets smashed around all the time, but I've never put it through a super brutal high-speed crash like I would with a 4s setup and more power.
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Feb 21, 2017 07:32
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Google Butt posted:If I solder an LED to the dedicated buzzer pads on my FC, will it blink if I have the low voltage warning set up in BF? This worked great btw  
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Feb 22, 2017 08:48
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So, I bought a Protos 500 and are now setting it up with a Pixhawk I'll most likely change this to a Pixracer later on, but will get this flying 'as is' for now. This should be a fun project and yes, I will FPV it 
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Feb 24, 2017 20:59
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Neat!
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Feb 24, 2017 21:11
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ImplicitAssembler posted:So, I bought a Protos 500 and are now setting it up with a Pixhawk Plz don't decapitate yourself rc-goon bro
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Feb 24, 2017 22:03
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I'll treat it with the same respect as you would with a large multi .
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Feb 24, 2017 23:24
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I briefly flew my T Rex 500 FPV, it was terrifying.
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Feb 25, 2017 04:48
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i own every Bionicle posted:I briefly flew my T Rex 500 FPV, it was terrifying. Again, this will large behave the same as a multirotor.
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Feb 25, 2017 05:05
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The pixhawk power modules are dogshit and seem to fail a lot, sometimes catastrophically, just fyi. Here's one melting down midflight on a Mini Talon.
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Feb 25, 2017 05:37
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I just reached a milestone in the hobby yesterday when I began construction on a QAV210 made from 100% spare parts. I'm going to set it up as a slow/docile flyer to navigate tight spaces and let friends try to fly something that isn't trying to get into orbit.
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Feb 25, 2017 21:28
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Looking to get back into quads after rage quitting three years ago when my frame cracked midflight and killed the flight controller with it (it was a piece of poo poo KK board, back when that was hot) I'll be printing out this frame to replace the chinese knockoff DJI flamewheel 450 I used to have http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:261145 I like the design of the tubular arms for cable routing and how it resists flex/twist better than normal arms. It also looks pretty spacious for the extra FPV gear I'll want to load onto the quad. So I'm looking to buy new electronics and wow, prices have dropped a lot since. What's some good entry level gear to buy nowadays for a big FPV quad (12" props, 750kV motors)? I don't need a crazy long range setup here, I'll be mostly flying within LOS but FPV feels more natural to me because I'm a disgusting video game playing nerd. (I'm much better at the FPV mode in freerider than LOS) Here's some of the stuff I'm considering Flight controller: Anything's probably better than my KK board I used to have. CC3D was hot back then, but plagued with supply issues and the project looks defunct now? I don't think I need an all-in-one setup since I still have my ESCs but a board with FPV features like OSD with battery voltage would be nice. Or it might be cheaper to buy a basic FC and just slap a separate OSD module on? FPV TX/RX: The only stuff available back then was 900MHz, so I have old TX/RX with huge antennas. 5.8GHz equipment looks to have gotten a whole lot cheaper, so I'll be looking to upgrade to that to save on weight and be able to use clover/skew planar antennas. FPV goggles: Wow this stuff is really cheap now that fatshark isn't the only player in the market. I'm looking at Eachine's offerings but can't really tell the difference between them. The Googles One/Two looks neat but I don't think I need to pay the premium for HD when my TX won't even be an HD feed. I'm thinking about the VR-D2 since it offers diversity.
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Feb 25, 2017 22:19
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I'd never fly a printed frame on something big like that, holy poo poo. On a itty bitty brushed copter, okay sure. Anyway, I have two of these: http://www.readytoflyquads.com/flip-32-f4-omnibus-v2-pro They are pretty cool. LC filter for good video quality, OSD directly attached to CPU, current sensor, SD card, you really can't go wrong. If you are into any GPS-related flight modes, there's a firmware stack called iNav which is very oriented towards that. Otherwise you can run Betaflight, etc on it. Trolling the rcgroups classifieds can get you cheap stuff that is either new or barely used, kinda wish I had done that from the beginning. Edit: Oh yeah, if you have a Taranis radio, these XM+ receivers are great and cheap: http://www.getfpv.com/frsky-xm-sbus-mini-receiver.html They got popular really quickly and are hard to find in stock right now. They have RSSI output on channel 16 by default, which is awesome for OSD use. My Rhythmic Crotch fucked around with this message at 23:08 on Feb 25, 2017 |
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Feb 25, 2017 22:53
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yergacheffe posted:Looking to get back into quads after rage quitting three years ago when my frame cracked midflight
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Feb 25, 2017 22:57
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Don't 3d print a frame. I wasted a ton of filament doing that. You'll get one, 2 flights tops out of it before you crash it, or most likely just land it slightly askew and it'll break. No matter the filament, it's all weak. As you've said, prices have come down a lot and 350-450 sized carbon tube frames should be pretty accessible. The 3D printer should be for your camera and component mounting, use it to make everything completely clean mounted and integrated with no double sided foam tape or anything like that. Use carbon and metal for the crash zones. At that size I think every crash is pretty catastrophic.
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Feb 25, 2017 23:07
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Also a 6incher will carry all your poo poo and be way, way less susceptible to battle damage.
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Feb 25, 2017 23:24
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Noted on the 3d printed frame guys, thanks. If I'm doing anything that sounds idiotic/misguided please don't hesitate to tell me. I think I would've ragequitted even harder if I had to wait 6 days for a print and then it cracked on the first flight haha. The printed frame for my Eachine H8 worked pretty well, it must scale up with no problems right?  I'm definitely open to the idea of sizing down from 450mm to 250mm but I'm not sure how well my 750kV motors will perform. Any suggestions for websites to buy frames from or recommendations for a particular frame? The options back then used to be HobbyKing/Chinese AliExpress-likes/one-off websites that would sell something for two months then disappear because of supply issues or whatever. I'll also be trolling RCgroups since the market's probably way bigger now. My Rhythmic Crotch posted:Anyway, I have two of these: http://www.readytoflyquads.com/flip-32-f4-omnibus-v2-pro They are pretty cool. LC filter for good video quality, OSD directly attached to CPU, current sensor, SD card, you really can't go wrong. If you are into any GPS-related flight modes, there's a firmware stack called iNav which is very oriented towards that. Otherwise you can run Betaflight, etc on it. This FC looks neat! There's a lot of integrated features that'll really tidy up my build and it's cool that I can run other STM32 firmware on it if I want to try that out in the future. Sadly, the Taranis didn't exist back when I started so I have a Turnigy 9X v2 with er9x flashed on it. I'd probably have to do some telemetry mods to make it work. If I get back into this hobby though, I'll probably try to sell it and put the money towards a Taranis.
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Feb 25, 2017 23:59
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