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what glue should I be using to keep magnets in the holes I drill in my plastic bits? Superglue only works some of the time. Also, I magnetized one Terminator to see if it was difficult and now I want to magnetize entire marine squads help
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Feb 23, 2017 20:21
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Super glue is the answer yeah, I've used both army painter and loctite and they usually sit in there. Just make sure nothing attracts the magnet out as its setting.
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Feb 23, 2017 20:24
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Ayn Marx posted:what glue should I be using to keep magnets in the holes I drill in my plastic bits? Superglue only works some of the time. Also, I magnetized one Terminator to see if it was difficult and now I want to magnetize entire marine squads help You have to make sure that the hole you drill is pretty close to the size of the magnet, or else you run the risk of your opposite magnet pulling it out. Tips: 1) Make sure the hole is only slightly larger than the magnet 2) User plenty of superglue to secure it 3) Wait for the glue to completely dry before attempting to join your magnetized pieces If your glue is not holding against the attraction of the magnet, you need better glue. Loctite and Gorilla Super Glue are good brands.
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Feb 23, 2017 20:29
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What kind of magnets should I be using for magnetizing bases?
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Feb 23, 2017 20:46
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Depending on the model i've actually started making the magnet holes the exact size or 0.1mm smaller and then just pressing them in. In that case i often skip the glue completely.
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Feb 23, 2017 20:47
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Bistromatic posted:Depending on the model i've actually started making the magnet holes the exact size or 0.1mm smaller and then just pressing them in. In that case i often skip the glue completely. Whenever I do that I end up messing up the polarization and it becomes impossible to get back out.
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Feb 23, 2017 21:25
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Put a dab of paint on the outward facing side.
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Feb 23, 2017 21:27
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mango sentinel posted:What kind of magnets should I be using for magnetizing bases? Like to transport on metal trays? For normal infantry I think an N52 3x2mm magnet should be enough to keep it in place.
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Feb 23, 2017 22:11
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ijyt posted:Like to transport on metal trays? For normal infantry I think an N52 3x2mm magnet should be enough to keep it in place. Yep! Just wasn't sure what size to go with that would fit for a normal base.
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Feb 23, 2017 22:16
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Lord Hypnostache posted:I took some pictures of my Kings of War Undead army for a friend of mine, I thought I'd share the pictures here too. Just FYI these are seriously dope. I love the color palette you chose for them with mostly metallics, some brown/tan, and very sparse use of the red and teal. Very awesome.
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Feb 23, 2017 22:38
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Cross posting from Oath thread. I want to be able to say that I finished my goblin team, but I really need some Coach figure to paint for them now. Tomorrow with better lights available I'll try to show off the whole team. Below their latest cheerleader and a ref ready to be bribed.  This is just me trying my hand painting a marine after like 15 years, and it also served as sort of a colour check. All those big flat surfaces, and well defined angles made me enjoy this a lot. Altho I swear this pic makes it look better than it actually is, which is weird. Will see if I can add some markings etc as SRM suggested to make it not so bland looking.  Also I should probably invest in some simple light box, as these images were made with a lovely mobile phone next to a window as light source.
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Feb 23, 2017 22:50
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Anyone know if the Forgeworld knight heads will work with actual GW knight kits? I wanted to use one of the Magaera heads instead of the base ones.
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Feb 23, 2017 23:26
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GuardianOfAsgaard posted:SRM that Guilliman is insane, god drat. Are you gonna do the 40k too one when it comes out? Ordered that exact group of the crew for myself a week or two ago. I almost went for the Tali diorama, but she's not as cool as Alien Girl and Calibrating Man
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Feb 23, 2017 23:46
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Progress! Sorry for the poo poo photos, but here are my lil crisis man's.     Still gotta finish up some minor details, but I'm digging how it came out. Also I tried to do that burnt metal effect on the burst cannon without an airbrush and I think it turned out pretty good.  
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Feb 24, 2017 01:40
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 Working on some gene stealers cults and this is a wip on my test model. Used the GW glaze for the yellow skin and really dig the results. Still need to do highlighting on it, and maybe pick out some details but so far so good I think. What do y'all think?
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Feb 24, 2017 01:44
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I have an odd question... has anyone tried to use Citadel paints (base, layer and washes) on non-miniatures? Like car models and such? I mean, really, I see no reason why not...?
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Feb 24, 2017 02:30
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Horace-Noah posted:What do y'all think? Love it. I dig the yellow alien look, I seldom see that kind of thing and I'm a big fan of when people do something outside the norm.
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Feb 24, 2017 02:31
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Wirth1000 posted:I have an odd question... has anyone tried to use Citadel paints (base, layer and washes) on non-miniatures? Like car models and such? I mean, really, I see no reason why not...? Yeah. They work fine on the typical plastic that models are made of. Gundams, cars, historical ww2 vehicles.
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Feb 24, 2017 02:44
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I'm fitting to follow this guide for my Trollbloods. The tutorial says to apply certain layers as a glaze. What is it about it being a glaze, as opposed to just two-brush blending the colors? http://www.coolminiornot.com/articles/8187-ice-gem-tutorial
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Feb 24, 2017 07:24
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Oath thread crosspost. Yellow and tartan is loving killing me.
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Feb 24, 2017 11:46
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We've started on This Is Not A Test at my local club, and here's a dry fit of something I'm building for it (will also work in Necromunda). It's supposed to be close to NCR from Fallout NV - but as I've not played that game for longer than 30 minutes, I'm wondering if there are any details I've missed that would make it more accurate?
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Feb 24, 2017 13:17
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glitchkrieg posted:We've started on This Is Not A Test at my local club, and here's a dry fit of something I'm building for it (will also work in Necromunda). It's looking pretty good, but in the game they wore the duster jacket over the armor, not under.  As from the image, the helmet also lacks the WW2 flared ridge (which should be pretty easy to sand down), the arms have armor wrappings as bracers and the coat splits a good deal in the back (along with a super popped collar). Aside from that it's looking pretty cool 
Neurolimal fucked around with this message at 13:29 on Feb 24, 2017 |
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Feb 24, 2017 13:26
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So after my mom saw the pictures of my Tau army, (and after a brief explanation to her of what it was) she bought me one of these:  It's a hand held plastic extruder or "3d doodler" She was thinking it would be useful in customizing the minis or making my own. After loving with it for a little bit, it seems pretty unwieldy as the plastic hardens almost immediately. I could see it being used to make Tim Burton-esque trees, maybe muzzle flashes/beam weapon blasts? Have any of you used one of these, or alternatively, can you think of a good use for it? I tried to Google around for some uses, but other than very Dr. Katz-style children's art projects, I haven't found any 40k/mini related uses. I did consider perhaps making small scale molds, and using it as a mini injection molding machine for small skulls, or maybe even infantry weapons, but I'm not sure about how well it would work given how quickly it cools. Any suggestions I can get would be appreciated. I'd like to find a 40k related use for it as it seems like it has some potential, and how happy my mom was when she gave it to me.
Kabuki Shipoopi fucked around with this message at 16:48 on Feb 24, 2017 |
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Feb 24, 2017 16:45
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If you got into customizing vehicles with styrene you could use it to add raised elements (with how fast it sounds like it cools it could work for making rivets), as well as outlining shapes to cut out without loving ot up with bad x-acto handling. Depending on how hot it gets you might be able to get away with simple raised emblems and other embellishments by applying directly to the mini, then sanding it flat. And yeah, with clear plastic/resin I could see it working very well for making multi-piece effect parts.
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Feb 24, 2017 16:55
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The hardest part about it is controlling the speed at which it comes out. It has 2 settings and both are faster than I'd like them to be. Most everything I see made with it are super squiggly, but it seems like the faster you are with maneuvering it, the more precise it comes out. I did find this:  Which would help make things more exact, maybe for making custom marker tokens and stuff. I do have clear rods as well as every other color of the rainbow, but I'm sure the plastic bonding primer I have would work well for applying paint afterwards. Edit: It looks like there is a pro version of the pen, that allows for temperature control as well as extrusion speed controls. I can see that solving the precision vs. hand speed issues and allow for more fine details. Kabuki Shipoopi fucked around with this message at 17:17 on Feb 24, 2017 |
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Feb 24, 2017 17:10
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Neurolimal posted:It's looking pretty good, but in the game they wore the duster jacket over the armor, not under. Thanks for the info! Annoyingly, the only arms I've got are the ones for standard Imperial Guard, so they'll all have the little shoulder pads on - which looks weird with the armour-less torsos I've got for the body (which are closed jackets anyway). I'll look at doing the other details, the bracers and the split probably won't be too difficult to do, so I might do those and have it as an "inspired by" rather than "accurate rendition".
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Feb 24, 2017 18:32
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Finished up my Dunecrawler for the most part. I have some basing material that's coming in the mail that i'll be adding to it. Overall, I'm pretty happy with how this turned out. I hit all the cables with a gloss varnish so they shine like cords. (I thought about taking advice on here and painting the rims black, but I still like my turquoise rims.)      And completed with transfers  I have a lightbox coming in the mail as well, so hopefully i'll be able to snag better pictures of my stuff.
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Feb 24, 2017 21:16
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Zuul the Cat posted:Finished up my Dunecrawler for the most part. I have some basing material that's coming in the mail that i'll be adding to it. Whatever you do, though, you've done a good job with the model.
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Feb 24, 2017 21:24
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berzerkmonkey posted:Looks good! My criticism of the turquoise is that the reds are very similar and you don't have anything to contrast. I think by painting the rim black, you'll get that extra pop. Yeah, i did take that to heart and drybrushed the raised parts of the rocky ground with a golden-brown color. Just to break up the large amounts of red.
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Feb 24, 2017 21:31
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That's a great-lookin' crab-tank, but I've gotta pile on and say I'm not a huge fan of the turquoise base rims.
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Feb 25, 2017 01:52
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Ilor posted:That's a great-lookin' crab-tank, but I've gotta pile on and say I'm not a huge fan of the turquoise base rims. Same, it's the one thing that detracts from an otherwise appealing paintjob.
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Feb 25, 2017 06:17
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I like the turquoise + red in terms if general color matching, but I will agree that the mini needs a dark contrast to make everything stand out, and a black rim would be perfect for that.
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Feb 25, 2017 10:50
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Zuul the Cat posted:Finished up my Dunecrawler for the most part. I have some basing material that's coming in the mail that i'll be adding to it. I'm not into the Turquoise rims, sorry dude. I think the Crabtank needs some weathering/battle damage. It currently looks way too clean for a machine that stomps around a rusty desert planet getting shot at occasionally. That said it's a lovely paintjob and it looks great, a little chipping, scratching and weathering will make it look amazing.
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Feb 25, 2017 11:30
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Kabuki Shipoopi posted:So after my mom saw the pictures of my Tau army, (and after a brief explanation to her of what it was) she bought me one of these: Without a SHITLOAD of practice, 3doodlers are really not remotely precise enough to work at 28mm scale.
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Feb 25, 2017 12:37
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You guys were right, they look way better with black rims. I'll post shots of the whole force soon.
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Feb 25, 2017 19:17
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thespaceinvader posted:Without a SHITLOAD of practice, 3doodlers are really not remotely precise enough to work at 28mm scale. I'm going to fiddle with making muzzle flares, lightning bolts, maybe intestines and the like. I might be able to make little plastic molds with it for basing or something, who knows. I didn't think it would be useful for making guns or anything with extreme detail, but having it in my case can't hurt.
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Feb 25, 2017 20:02
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Eh, it was a gift. I'd never advise you to buy one, but since you already have it, might as well fool around with it. Worst case scenario, it's useless for minis, and you have a neat toy.
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Feb 25, 2017 20:07
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That's what I'm thinking. I'll post some results once I finish painting my army.
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Feb 25, 2017 22:42
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Seems like it'd be pretty good for goopy gore strings, not that you'd see that often with Tau. e: though having a quick look on youtube people have made some pretty incredible things with it. ijyt fucked around with this message at 23:02 on Feb 25, 2017 |
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Feb 25, 2017 22:57
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I wanted to practice painting humans to take a break from painting wangs. I rushed the grass cuz I just wanted it to look finished but will probably go back and touch up the black fabric with something more than the current sketch of layers. I'm guessing the skin looks too pale but I thought it was a nice complement to the darker colors. Sword should probably be a green  
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Feb 25, 2017 23:04
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