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americanzero4128 posted:2004 Ford F-150, 96k miles, V8. Just to follow up here - I replaced my multifunction switch and that didn't fix it so I returned that part and took it to the mechanic. Ended up having a broken wire in the wires that go to the tail light assembly. Got out for under $100, parts and labor which is a lot less than I thought it would be. Mostly for the labor to track down the specific problem; I expected at least 2 hours to trace the issue.
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Feb 26, 2017 05:35
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Geoj posted:Did they give you a quote before starting the job, and if so how much? Thanks for the input, guys.
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Feb 26, 2017 05:57
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Dominoes posted:Unrelated: Are Teslas only feasible if you live in a hous?
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Feb 26, 2017 09:06
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Christobevii3 posted:Probably not. If pads are super cheap and you have them right there is probably take the lazy tax and change them two_beer_bishes posted:I would probably change them just because I have everything disassembled already and I have the parts. Yu-Gi-Ho! posted:I'd say those are a bit under half worn (guessing based on the Altima I used to own, but it was a 2nd generation, not a 3rd or 4th like yours). You had picked up pads and rotors for all 4 wheels, right? Thanks for the tips guys. It took me a total of about 7 hrs to do all 4, but everything works great now. Those pads I had shown in the image ended up being the best of the bunch, and had less than 1/4" of material on them. The rest were far more worn. I'm glad there's new stuff on the vehicle now. I borrowed the caliper piston tool from O'Reilly Auto which made that part easier, and I allowed the bleed valve to let the brake fluid go into a container on each instead of forcing it back up the lines. The passenger rear piston compressed super easy and nothing came out of the tube, so I had my wife pump the brakes until we got a solid stream of fluid running through it, so I guess we had some air in the lines after all. None of the other wheels were like that. It brakes like a champ and there's no squealing, I think (hope) we're good to go.
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Feb 26, 2017 16:25
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I feel like there is a need for a functional FIAT thread, since I own a FIAT and would enjoy some discussion on the subject. The old one hasn't been posted in for almost a year, though. Should it be necromanced, or should there be a new one? Or does no one actually care?
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Feb 26, 2017 20:05
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Deteriorata posted:I feel like there is a need for a functional FIAT thread, since I own a FIAT and would enjoy some discussion on the subject. The old one hasn't been posted in for almost a year, though. Should it be necromanced, or should there be a new one? If you want to spend the time and make a decent OP for a new one, have at it.
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Feb 26, 2017 21:54
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Deteriorata posted:I feel like there is a need for a functional FIAT thread, since I own a FIAT and would enjoy some discussion on the subject. The old one hasn't been posted in for almost a year, though. Should it be necromanced, or should there be a new one? Only if anyone who types FIAT in that thread without caps gets probated.
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Feb 26, 2017 22:00
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Anyone who recommends you sell it and buy Bitcoin gets perma'd.
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Feb 26, 2017 22:12
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So I want to travel europe for 2-3 months I gathered from research that buying a car in the uk isn't hard its getting it insured that is super difficult, and I know short term leases and renting is a thing from people like http://www.autoeurope.com/ but are there any options I am missing for traveling europe and not using eurorail?
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Feb 26, 2017 23:23
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Lord, I hope that this is a stupid question. I acquired an '01 Dodge Intrepid that was maintained to death by the PO, my best friend's father (a retired engineer). Even though it has a 2.7 it runs perfectly. Today, I decided to removed the Sony CD changer, which involved pulling the console cover over the shifter (to get to the radio console). I could not remove it entirely due to how the shift lever & its leather boot are installed, so I horsed it out of the way & finished the job. This did involve occasionally moving the shifter back & forth to get at screws, etc. After an uneventful reassembly, I found that the battery was nearly dead (clicked on trying to start, but had enough juice for lights) . I have known that the battery was dying since I got the car - was going to change it out when it warmed up. Deciding to charge the battery, I found I could not remove the key from the ignition. I eventually figured out that the horsing of the shift console caused the leather boot to bunch up in a way that prevented the lever from being completely seated in Park. However, that knowledge came later. I eventually wrestled the shifter fully into Park & got the key out of the ignition, set up the charger & left it alone for 4-hours. On return, I entered the car & it started right up. I shut it off, and couldn't get the key out. After about a half hour, I sorted the console issue, and the key/ignition block behaved normally. I removed the battery charger & put it away, and left the car. About an hour later, after sunset, I happened to look out my kitchen window & noticed that the instrument lights were on - as though the car were running. I found the car not running, no key in it, but the dash lights were on. This is when I went down the rabbit hole - there was no way to turn them off. Returning with the key, I started the car without any issue or weirdness. I turned the key to the off position & removed it. The car remained running & the dash lights stayed on. I cycled the key /ignition switch every which way, but nothing happened. WTF. I cycled the ignition off, and removed the key (dash/instrument lights burning), and pondered what to do next. Within 20-seconds, the engine began to run rough, stumble, then died. Dash lights stayed on. I started it again, then cycled the ignition off, and removed the key; died within 20-seconds. Totally confused, I searched online & found only that there is a cutoff relay that, if removed, kills the engine. Tried this and it worked. Instrumemt lights stayed on. Next advice: maybe that relay's bad. Switch it out. Nope; no change. The only other advice was to disconnect the battery, wait a half-hour, and reconnect it. No change. Tried it twice. I did note that there was a lot of sparking when I reconnected the neg batteery line - as if there was something drawing a fair bit of current - and I could also hear a faint, anemic buzzy whining that stopped & started depending on whether or not the battery was connected. None of the fuses are blown. I could not trace this noise. Perhaps it's the fuel pump? My only conclusion is that I somehow porked the ECU when I charged it. This car has never had a day's trouble in the past three years, and no issues since I bought it two months ago. It's been boringly dependable. PainterofCrap fucked around with this message at 06:12 on Feb 27, 2017 |
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Feb 27, 2017 04:05
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My first thought is that you borked the ignition switch.
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Feb 27, 2017 05:35
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By charging the battery? 
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Feb 27, 2017 06:03
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You've touched four components and their surrounding areas. I believe we can rule the battery out, so we're down to three. 1. Disassemble the radio again and see if you've rubbed any insulation off any wires in close proximity. What you describe very well could be a shorting of an ECU/ignition wire. 2. Ignition switch might be busted as you've been forceful with it. It's certainly the most closely related component to this type of issue. I'd test it in all ranges with a multimeter and see if you can duplicate the issue. 3. Shifter mechanism. Definitely forceful with this one and you may have shorted something internally between gates. Also rather closely related to your issue but not as much as the ignition switch. Again, test all ranges with a multimeter.
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Feb 27, 2017 06:13
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Adiabatic posted:You've touched four components and their surrounding areas. I believe we can rule the battery out, so we're down to three. Also consider that if it's a column shift, it probably has a shaft or linkage of some sort running down the column. Since you had to be forceful with the shifter to get it back into park, it's possible that some wiring that runs up the column (ign switch?) got pinched by the linkage when you were jostling everything around, and when you forced it back into park you could have broken through the insulation there.
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Feb 27, 2017 06:16
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I once changed my cars headlamps and blew an ABS fuse in the process. Its kind of worrying that it was a brake fuse, but the car hasnt had any other electrical problems before or since. 
Platystemon fucked around with this message at 06:22 on Feb 27, 2017 |
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Feb 27, 2017 06:20
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PainterofCrap posted:By charging the battery? By messing with it trying to get the key out.
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Feb 27, 2017 06:21
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Godholio posted:By messing with it trying to get the key out. The key was never forced - just switched through its detents. It is a floor shift, not column. The radio came out & went back in without issue or force. The only wiring involved was to the two Jones plugs for the radio, and one for the climate control (all are working properly). These wires were sleeved twice over in addition to the factory shrink tubing. There is no other wiring that runs anywhere near the area I was working. If there is any wiring in the car that is actuated by the action of the shift lever, it's in the engine compartment. Excessive force came in only when pushing the shift lever up into Park before I figured out it was the boot bunching up. The area that was stressed was the (plastic) front of the shifting slot more than anything else. Since being resolved, the shifter passes cleanly through all detents and drops into and comes out of Park cleanly (and the transmission shifts into its various gears normally, and the dash indicator correctly shows the gear selection), and the key block too operates cleanly (which, of course, does not mean that the switch itsef isn't FUBAR, just a cosmic coincidence that it failed when the battery was charged). So far the two likeliest issues are the ASD relay and the ignition switch. Every fuse I could see is unblown. What's odd is that, even with the ASD relay pulled, there's still this faint, weird buzzing sound coming from somewhere. I pulled every underhood fuse & relay, and it wouldn't stop. I was unable to trace it to a source in the dark & cold last night, will try again today. It only stops when battery power is pulled, and starts up again when restored. I appreciate everyone's input thus far; I'll see of I can figure out what/where to test. I am not ruling out something missed, or spectaculary stupid, on my part. Godholio, the is more embematic of this entire situation than your (welcome) suggestion; apologies if it came off as an editorial on your comment.e: I will replace the ignition switch today. It's relatively easy & the part runs $32.00 PainterofCrap fucked around with this message at 15:05 on Feb 27, 2017 |
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Feb 27, 2017 14:32
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Wowza, having trouble finding engine management/immobilizer wiring diagrams for this guy. Anybody able to post them up for an '01 Intrepid 2.7L? PainterofCrap, once you get those it should be rather simple to trace down where a short could have occurred. You may want to buy a service manual (Haynes, Chilton, the FSM if you're a big spender) as they'll have wiring diagrams. If you can figure out where the buzzing is coming from, the switch(es) on the power source for it should lead you straight to the defective component. Adiabatic fucked around with this message at 14:56 on Feb 27, 2017 |
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Feb 27, 2017 14:46
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  I can get more diagrams but need to know what you need. Preoptopus fucked around with this message at 16:11 on Feb 27, 2017 |
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Feb 27, 2017 15:22
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Thank you for these! Will be printing... Possible interesting development: I failed to mention in my OP that, at the same moment that the non-stopping issue developed, the check engine light came on. In its last act before completely dying, my (well, formerly) trusty AutoRay EZ Scan 6000 read an evap fault code in the fuel tank. This car has never previously thrown a code. I was chatting with a (self-described) Mopar mechanic on in inquiry site (paywall) and he eventually pulled up a bulletin that said tha there may be corrosion of a contact that creates an intermittent connection with Connector 308, which is located under the back seat. The Dodge Intrepid forums showed up on a search of "Connector 308 back seat" with the following: Those two wires are both for the evaporative emissions leak detection pump located on the gas tank. White/green stripe - the PCM turns the leak detection pump on/off via this wire Orange/red stripe - this wire is connected to a switch in the leak detection pump assembly that opens or closes in response to a leak in the evaporative emissions system. It is basically a pressure switch. One end of the switch is connected to +12V, the other end of the switch is connected to the PCM. It is basically useless to try to measure anything from these two wires without a special diagnostic tool because the leak detection system only operates intermittently. You should also have a green/black stripe wire coming out of that same plug, which supplies +12V to the leak detection pump and switch. Not all vehicles are equipped with a leak detection system, so you might not have that wire. Hmmmmmm. it is looking more & more like a coincidental issue with this connector. That weird whiny sound I'm hearing may be that leak detection pump. Stay tuned. PainterofCrap fucked around with this message at 16:20 on Feb 27, 2017 |
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Feb 27, 2017 16:18
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IOwnCalculus posted:Steve Lehto did a video on this last month: This is a great video. Unfortunately, Ford basically told me to go gently caress myself when this happened 48,000 miles into a 60,000 mile warranty: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6Kis-hIyOdU Because it happened a week after the 5 year powertrain warranty ended.
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Feb 27, 2017 16:38
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When I make right hand turns or curves, the light that comes on when you set the parking brake will come on briefly, never really more than a few seconds. It doesn't seem to happen on left turns/curves. It hasn't happened much, but it does appear to be doing it a bit more frequently now, two or three times last night when I was driving home. Is this something to worry about, or is there a sensor on that side getting weird? Also, is it at all normal for my battery gauge to vary while I'm driving? It always stays in what the manual says is the correct operating range (11-15 volts), but it didn't do this until after I had to let the car sit for about a month due to an issue. A new battery and reman alternator were installed toward the beginning of December, and letting it sit happened after that. Just hoping it's not bad sign. I ran it a few times while it was sitting, but probably not enough. Car is a 1985 Nissan 200SX if that info is needed.
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Feb 27, 2017 19:22
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Yu-Gi-Ho! posted:Was the engine off when it was parked? Update: it was a bad alternator with a bad battery. I will go ahead and do those while being extorted by the dealership because at this point getting the car towed elsewhere would be enough of a headache to negate any benefit of non-dealership prices. The rattling noise that the mechanic near me thought was a bad transmission is actually the manifold. Which brings be to the following question: how big a deal is a manifold that makes a low rattling noise at low RPM? I ask because now I am stuck between the dealer and its "you gotta replace it now, $1200!" attitude and the normally reliable mechanic who could not find it and thought it was a transmission.
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Feb 27, 2017 19:31
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You have a toyota right? http://gorup-sinkovec.net/diy/rattling-noise-in-toyota-corolla-intake-manifold-solved/
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Feb 27, 2017 19:34
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Detective Thompson posted:When I make right hand turns or curves, the light that comes on when you set the parking brake will come on briefly, never really more than a few seconds. It doesn't seem to happen on left turns/curves. It hasn't happened much, but it does appear to be doing it a bit more frequently now, two or three times last night when I was driving home. Is this something to worry about, or is there a sensor on that side getting weird? Also, is it at all normal for my battery gauge to vary while I'm driving? It always stays in what the manual says is the correct operating range (11-15 volts), but it didn't do this until after I had to let the car sit for about a month due to an issue. A new battery and reman alternator were installed toward the beginning of December, and letting it sit happened after that. Just hoping it's not bad sign. I ran it a few times while it was sitting, but probably not enough. Car is a 1985 Nissan 200SX if that info is needed. Check your brake fluid, it's probably low.
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Feb 27, 2017 19:53
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spankmeister posted:You have a toyota right? Nissan, but the noise is similar.
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Feb 27, 2017 20:13
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Detective Thompson posted:When I make right hand turns or curves, the light that comes on when you set the parking brake will come on briefly, never really more than a few seconds. It doesn't seem to happen on left turns/curves. It hasn't happened much, but it does appear to be doing it a bit more frequently now, two or three times last night when I was driving home. Is this something to worry about, or is there a sensor on that side getting weird? Also, is it at all normal for my battery gauge to vary while I'm driving? It always stays in what the manual says is the correct operating range (11-15 volts), but it didn't do this until after I had to let the car sit for about a month due to an issue. A new battery and reman alternator were installed toward the beginning of December, and letting it sit happened after that. Just hoping it's not bad sign. I ran it a few times while it was sitting, but probably not enough. Car is a 1985 Nissan 200SX if that info is needed. You need brakes, or potentially you have a leak. That light is shared with the brake fluid level sensor (and the level is low enough that the sloshing going around corners is now tripping it). As your brake pads/shoes wear the level of fluid goes down (it's in your calipers now making up for the decrease in pas thickness). The reservoir should have sufficient capacity to not need topping up providing your brakes are not in need of replacement and you don't have any leaks.
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Feb 27, 2017 20:30
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Thoughts & comments... http://www.germainhondaofbeavercreek.com/new/Honda/2016-Honda-Civic-7c068cea0a0e0ae854d002e5f30a5607.htm New 2016 Honda civic coupe... $20,213... sales guy told my daughter he could get her out the door taxes and all that bs for $20,000 flat. First questions... I thought this green, and that back end were new for 2017? but this is a 2016? Im about to google that. So it's roughly the same price as the 2017 we were looking at but this has a power moonroof, and I get the feeling it has some extras the 2017 does not. I haven't seen it yet, planning to tomorrow so I am trying to get all the info I can. Thanks VVV This is the kind of things i like to hear. FrankeeFrankFrank fucked around with this message at 01:27 on Feb 28, 2017 |
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Feb 28, 2017 01:15
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Someone can prove me wrong but I thought bright colored cars attract higher insurance. (It is a sick color tho) I'm not a fan of the directional wheels but that's just my opinion. All in all solid car. Have yet to see one in my shop for anything other than an oil change.
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Feb 28, 2017 01:26
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FrankeeFrankFrank posted:Thoughts & comments... I don't know if the title, taxes, registration, and the rest add up to $3k. It's an OK deal, I guess, but not a steal by any means. The dealer would very much like to get rid of this car, though, and would probably take a few grand less.
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Feb 28, 2017 01:29
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Deteriorata posted:If it's a 2016, it's already had a year of depreciation. According to Kelley Blue Book, it will be worth about $17k once she drives it off the lot (private sale) or about 15k on a trade-in. Thanks... was looking up the blue book price now.
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Feb 28, 2017 01:38
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Preoptopus posted:Someone can prove me wrong but I thought bright colored cars attract higher insurance. (It is a sick color tho) I'm not a fan of the directional wheels but that's just my opinion. All in all solid car. Have yet to see one in my shop for anything other than an oil change. Color has no impact on insurance. When was the last time you provided the color when you insured a car?
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Feb 28, 2017 01:51
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big crush on Chad OMG posted:Color has no impact on insurance. When was the last time you provided the color when you insured a car? That would be racist... EDIT: Just looked at my bill from buying a new 2014 Chevy Cruze in november 2013... taxes were roughly $1500, and there was a fiance charge of $600... so that's already $2000... we'll still try to get them down with the blue book price, etc. Is there any benefit to trying to use my same finance company? I was thinking they might give me a break in order to keep my business another 3 years. My wife seems to think they will do the exact opposite and roll what I owe, including interest due, into loan in effect charging me interest twice. I say that sounds illegal... she's says she is right. This is one of those Im not winning, especially since I'm not positive... so I escaped to the safety of the internet. FrankeeFrankFrank fucked around with this message at 02:09 on Feb 28, 2017 |
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Feb 28, 2017 01:55
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big crush on Chad OMG posted:When was the last time you provided the color when you insured a car? I've never had an insurance policy that didn't require the VIN to cover the vehicle, which you can decode the car's color from. Also once had a State Farm agent blame car color (along with 15 other parameters) when explaining why I was paying upwards of $300/month on a poverty-spec Focus hatchback on a high deductible/low limit policy with one traffic ticket on my record.
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Feb 28, 2017 02:01
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I know for a fact red at least in WI used to cost more than white.
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Feb 28, 2017 02:17
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Geoj posted:I've never had an insurance policy that didn't require the VIN to cover the vehicle, which you can decode the car's color from. Is this because people who buy flashy color cars drive more recklessly? How about the argument that flashy cars are more visable to other drivers? (kidding) I'm sure there is some alga-rhythm the insurance company plugs all the data they can into, to charge you as much as possible.
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Feb 28, 2017 02:22
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Preoptopus posted:I know for a fact red at least in WI used to cost more than white. No, sorry. Point me to an actuarial table for car color. They don't exist.
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Feb 28, 2017 02:36
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big crush on Chad OMG posted:No, sorry. Point me to an actuarial table for car color. They don't exist. It affects rates indirectly. From here: quote:A 1990 survey by the St. Petersburg Times found color does matter. White cars, which accounted for 25 percent of the cars on the road, were issued 19 percent of speeding tickets. By contrast, red cars made up 14 percent of those on the road but represented 16 percent of speeding tickets. So if you have a red or black car you're likely to pay higher insurance rates - but not directly because it's black or red, but because you'll have more tickets and/or accident claims.
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Feb 28, 2017 02:51
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Deteriorata posted:It affects rates indirectly. From here: 1990. Recent. That article means that everyone driving that same year/make/model would pay a rate averaged across all colors. Your insurance company doesn't track the car color, or if they do, it isn't baked into the rating formula.
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Feb 28, 2017 03:14
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big crush on Chad OMG posted:1990. Recent. That article means that everyone driving that same year/make/model would pay a rate averaged across all colors. Your insurance company doesn't track the car color, or if they do, it isn't baked into the rating formula.  Red vs. white got me a difference of $117 on the premium, exactly the same information otherwise.
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Feb 28, 2017 03:33
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