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Silver and nickle blocks don't mix
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# ? Feb 5, 2017 16:06 |
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# ? May 23, 2024 17:31 |
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I just discovered these monsoon free center compression fittings are silver plated, barf! That sucks because otherwise they were awesome. I'm getting some replacement fittings and then I'll scrub down my nickle plates and do some rinses.
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# ? Feb 5, 2017 18:53 |
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So am interaction between silver and nickel caused this?
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# ? Feb 5, 2017 19:05 |
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PerrineClostermann posted:So am interaction between silver and nickel caused this? My best guess, while replacing my waterblock due to the cracked top I took a good look at everything and it's definitely not microbial growth. I'm sure if I leave things as is they get a lot worse so I'll be replacing things pretty quick.
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# ? Feb 5, 2017 19:25 |
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Did you take any pictures of your residue?
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# ? Feb 5, 2017 21:58 |
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Easiest to see here, but this was also in my tubes and resevoir, where it wiped off pretty easily. Just draining my coolant (1 month old utopia+DI) and putting in some sysprep+DI has reduced it. When I broke down my system the other day I pulled 4 of these 6 Monsoon fittings, I'm waiting for 2 more nickle fittings to come in and then I'll work on cleaning everything up. rage-saq fucked around with this message at 23:24 on Feb 5, 2017 |
# ? Feb 5, 2017 23:14 |
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PerrineClostermann posted:More radiators is never unnecessary. Oh hello: http://techreport.com/news/31444/alphacool-eiswand-combats-hot-parts-with-a-big-block-of-chill
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# ? Feb 16, 2017 01:26 |
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VulgarandStupid posted:Oh hello: Full copper? Sounds expensive. Oh wow, it is. Just do this! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=z6HfXy8A3O4
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# ? Feb 16, 2017 02:50 |
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I've been pondering a Desk-PC build, think it would be pretty fun to do. But they seem like a really niche product. I've literally only found: Lian-Li's DK series, some availability on Newegg/Amazon. $900-$1400. Some Italian company's "Hydra" ~$1000, only has a "reserve" button on their website. Red Harbinger's Cross desk which doesn't seem to be available anymore. Everything else seems to be custom jobs. Maybe I should learn to, like, build a desk. How hard could that be? Even that Linus guy did it, right?
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# ? Feb 19, 2017 18:11 |
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Well, he had a lot of help. Linus' practical skills are very, very hit & miss.
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# ? Feb 19, 2017 19:08 |
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well why not posted:Well, he had a lot of help. Linus' practical skills are very, very hit & miss. Linus Drill Tips
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# ? Feb 19, 2017 19:57 |
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Deuce posted:I've been pondering a Desk-PC build, think it would be pretty fun to do. But they seem like a really niche product. I've literally only found: Linus built two different desk PCs. One, a long time ago just mounting stuff under a store bought desk and one recently with the glass top. The first one was easy, cheap and had plenty of room for mess ups. The second one was the opposite.
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# ? Feb 19, 2017 20:09 |
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well why not posted:Well, he had a lot of help. Linus' practical skills are very, very hit & miss. I remember when he painted all the plastic parts on the motherboard blue, I thought how much simpler, easier, stronger and with better coverage if he'd used vinyl dye spray instead of car paint. And the custom waterblock fiasco. Though it was kinda cool regardless.
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# ? Feb 19, 2017 20:27 |
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well why not posted:Well, he had a lot of help. Linus' practical skills are very, very hit & miss. Like the whole room water cooling project to try to reduce the temp of the room from all the PCs, so they use copper pipes lol
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# ? Feb 20, 2017 03:05 |
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Luke has some basic skills and it seems that new guy, Jake was hired expressly because he knows how to build poo poo.
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# ? Feb 21, 2017 12:43 |
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Luke is a hell of a lot less cringey than Linus, which is always a plus
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# ? Feb 21, 2017 19:39 |
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speak of the devil : https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-HO6Ys3PPIw
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# ? Feb 22, 2017 10:46 |
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Linus Drill Tips
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# ? Feb 22, 2017 16:17 |
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I really don't get the point of that build, they have beast PCs in each editor's station. Why not just have them render stuff locally rather than transfer files to another machine. I don't know a lot about editing workflow, so I might be offbase here. Is it so the editors' machines aren't bogged down rendering and they can keep working? Why not just have an edit box in the editing room?
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# ? Feb 22, 2017 16:28 |
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well why not posted:I really don't get the point of that build, they have beast PCs in each editor's station. Why not just have them render stuff locally rather than transfer files to another machine. I don't know a lot about editing workflow, so I might be offbase here. Is it so the editors' machines aren't bogged down rendering and they can keep working? Why not just have an edit box in the editing room? Rendering takes time away from your machine. Its better to send it elsewhere.
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# ? Feb 22, 2017 16:33 |
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It's also worth noting that editing and encoding are entirely separate processes and both are very resource intensive (though editing can be helped with GPUs in most applications). If they are encoding locally they can't move on to the next project until it's done.
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# ? Feb 22, 2017 18:36 |
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Anyone ever do a side-by-side comparison between PETG and acrylic tubing? I've heard acrylic is supposedly a little more clear-looking but I've never actually looked at the two together.
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# ? Feb 28, 2017 22:55 |
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Deuce posted:Anyone ever do a side-by-side comparison between PETG and acrylic tubing? I've heard acrylic is supposedly a little more clear-looking but I've never actually looked at the two together. http://www.overclock.net/t/584302/ocn-water-cooling-club-and-picture-gallery/97760#post_25156759
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# ? Feb 28, 2017 23:01 |
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Don Lapre posted:http://www.overclock.net/t/584302/ocn-water-cooling-club-and-picture-gallery/97760#post_25156759 Thanks. Acrylic does look a little cleaner.
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# ? Feb 28, 2017 23:37 |
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Any advantage over a custom loop a la EKWB over an AIO? Apart from having evaporation under control? How long are the tubes supposed to last, and what's this about regular flushing? Also, I'm curious, I wanted to get the watercooler whenever I'll switch case. I notice that the bigger radiators usually get put in the front of the case, on the intake. How hot is the radiator supposed to get when the CPU is under heavy load? Because of the blowing warm air into the case thing.
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# ? Mar 1, 2017 15:10 |
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Combat Pretzel posted:Any advantage over a custom loop a la EKWB over an AIO? Apart from having evaporation under control? How long are the tubes supposed to last, and what's this about regular flushing? Custom loop will have better performance and is able to be maintained. All the components are better (and you pay for it). My aquacomputer d5 pump cost as much as some AIO's. You also have much more expandability obviously. Blowing warm air isn't really an issue especially if your gpu is also watercooled. Just make sure if you are using a radiator as intake you have exhaust fans going. As far as flushing, i probably do mine once a year. Its really not hard if you build a drain into your loop. Open drains, drain out as much water as you can, maybe tilt the case a little. Fill it back up with new distilled water, run it a few minutes. Drain, then fill up with your coolant of choice. If you want you could fill it up and drain it again but its not really that important. I use EK clear coolant concentrate.
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# ? Mar 1, 2017 16:09 |
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Combat Pretzel posted:Any advantage over a custom loop a la EKWB over an AIO? Apart from having evaporation under control? The primary advantage of a custom loop over a good AIO is aesthetics and the fun of building it yourself. Seriously. (and some AIOs are getting more stylish these days) Custom loops are definitely an "enthusiast" type operation. You do it because you want to do it. A custom loop will generally perform better due to the higher quality components available, but this improved cooling performance is very unlikely to translate into better hardware performance. Both cool well enough to hit whatever power/chip limits your CPU/GPU probably have. If you have a big case with good radiator space, you can also get a quieter setup because more rads = less fan speed = less noise. (the pump on cheaper AIOs sometimes causes some vibration noise as well) But make sure it's a good AIO with as big a radiator you can fit. An overclocked CPU with a single 120mm thin radiator found on some of the cheap AIOs can lose out to air cooling. quote:How long are the tubes supposed to last, and what's this about regular flushing? "Gunk" was, as far as I understand, primarily a problem caused by plasticizer leeching from soft tubing into the system, where it would clog up in the smaller channels of water blocks. A lot of people initially blamed this on the dyes, as the gunk would absorb the dye and match its color. Newer tubing should avoid this. Primochill's Advanced LRT is pretty popular. Hard tubing (usually PETG or acrylic) avoids this problem, but is a much, much bigger pain in the rear end to work with. (but looks great and once you've done rigid tubing, soft tubing seems like child's play!) AIOs have the unfortunate issue of not really being maintainable, but I really have no idea how long they last. quote:Also, I'm curious, I wanted to get the watercooler whenever I'll switch case. I notice that the bigger radiators usually get put in the front of the case, on the intake. How hot is the radiator supposed to get when the CPU is under heavy load? Because of the blowing warm air into the case thing. Well, the CPU is being cooled by that radiator, so it will be fine. If your GPU is air-cooled it may run a little hotter, but not dramatically so. Nothing else in your system is going to care about a couple extra degrees of temperature. A lot of cases these days have spots for top-mounted radiators also, so you can use them as exhaust. Or in a custom loop, do both!
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# ? Mar 1, 2017 16:17 |
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My H50 was doing fine on my 2600k for five years before I went custom, just FYI. I don't know if I'd continue using it after five years though.
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# ? Mar 1, 2017 17:25 |
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Ive seen lots of the h50 style coolers fail (specifically the one corsair used for h50, its also branded as alienware in dells)
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# ? Mar 1, 2017 17:33 |
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... That makes me much less likely to reuse it
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# ? Mar 1, 2017 17:42 |
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So specifically if anyone has one of these The tall rear end pump is the giveaway of which one you have it may say corsair, or asetek, or alienware, or have some other log on it. Id get rid of it.
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# ? Mar 1, 2017 17:48 |
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Anyone with experience using Mayhem's pastel dyes + coloring in a rigid tube build? I've heard mixed reviews. I poke around for discussions on various forums but it usually comes back to some guy saying it went bad and some Mayhem rep saying "NO NO YOU DID IT WRONG." Mayhems dyes cannot fail, they can only be failed? Is my impression of Mayhem's reps as Baghdad Bob accurate? I want to use dye concentrates so I can drip in a bit at a time to go for the right color. I was pondering the pastels so I could try out an opaque fluid.
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# ? Mar 3, 2017 02:28 |
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I was under the impression no one ran colored liquid outside of showing off/pictures? Wait for Don to chime in.
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# ? Mar 3, 2017 02:30 |
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I use mayhems red and it's fine. Not with pastel though. Jayztwocents has a video on dying pastel edit: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ngul4M7kqzI&t=437s Don Lapre fucked around with this message at 04:15 on Mar 3, 2017 |
# ? Mar 3, 2017 02:35 |
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Moey posted:I was under the impression no one ran colored liquid outside of showing off/pictures? Well, erm, yes? "It looks cool" is responsible for like 90% of this thread.
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# ? Mar 3, 2017 04:00 |
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The other 10% is "it's cool designing and putting together a loop." Basically rule of cool no matter which way you spin it.
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# ? Mar 3, 2017 04:17 |
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So I just read that silver can react badly with nickel-covered blocks.
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# ? Mar 3, 2017 04:51 |
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Correct. Don't use silver. Nickel, copper, and brass are all good together.
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# ? Mar 3, 2017 05:00 |
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Well, crap. My GPU block seems to be going to hell. Questions: 1) Is it salvageable? If not, EKWB apparently has had a corrosion RMA process for this very issue, years ago. They must have thought the problem was solved, because they started selling nickel-covered blocks again, and no warning is found on the product page for use of silver killcoils. 2) Can I expect the corrosion in the copper parts as well? The CPU block is copper with an acetal top. The radiators are alphacool, so should only have copper in contact with water. 3) Should I use this as an excuse to purchase a 1080ti? You might argue that the GPU itself is totally fine, just the block needs to be replaced. My answer to that is shut up, who asked you? Don Lapre posted:Correct. Don't use silver. Nickel, copper, and brass are all good together. Given that silver killcoils are incredibly common, you'd think EKWB would have some kind of warning about that. Deuce fucked around with this message at 05:12 on Mar 3, 2017 |
# ? Mar 3, 2017 05:08 |
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# ? May 23, 2024 17:31 |
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PerrineClostermann posted:The other 10% is "it's cool designing and putting together a loop." I used to be way into it, even after a bad start (shorting my mobo because of a leak), but over about a 4-year watercooling career, found it to just be tedious in the end. At one point I had three (!) GTX 295's watercooled in a serial loop with my CPU and two modded DIYINHK DDC's driving it all through 2x120x2 and 2x120x1 rads. Or at another point had QDCs on my GPU block, CPU block, and each rad, allowing me to effortlessly change out components (which I of course never loving did). I've still got sitting in a box the old-style spaced PA120.2's from Thermochill which can't sell a drat since they don't adhere to standard fan spacing, and have been thinking about getting back into it with my MM H2G0 case specifically cut for those rads. But every time I even think about it for maybe 5 minutes, I realize how much of a hassle it is, and how the relative gains versus a good air cooler are now slimmer than ever. I guess what I'm trying to say is that I got old and no longer care if my rig looks cool or benchmarks well, and it's certainly not worth the effort trade-off and high cost to me anymore. But every now and then I take out the rads and peer at my case and consider it.
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# ? Mar 3, 2017 05:12 |