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CornHolio posted:The hose looks like it's at the bottom of the master cylinder and goes under the airbox. Is there a good diagram showing the hose routing? I can't seem to find one. I have a non-turbo if that matters. I believe my na 850 had a vacuum diagram sticker on the front clip somewhere. A NA is pretty simple (other than the annoying pcv junk). If you pop off the plastic intake hose it should make it pretty open and straightforward to see.
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Jan 26, 2017 17:38
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The booster hose runs under the air box to the intake manifold. If you remove the air box it should be immediately visible.
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Jan 26, 2017 17:50
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That's what I thought. I had all of that apart years ago when I replaced the PCV junk. I didn't realize the brake booster line was one of those lines. Most cars it's a straight line from the master cylinder to the top of the engine. Guess I'll pull it in the garage this weekend and see what it looks like.
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Jan 26, 2017 19:34
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FCP has those taillight lenses on sale. Still $117 but cheaper than normal. https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/volvo-tail-light-assembly-left-red-clear-740-sedans-pro-parts-3518171
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Jan 26, 2017 20:53
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Anybody in the thread done front wheel bearings on a 140 or 160? I've got a 1970 164 that needs a new front wheel bearing but the stuff I pulled out of the hub doesn't quite seem to match the kit I bought.
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Jan 29, 2017 00:27
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I've done them. If you're lucky, wash the bearings and they should have a number on them that would allow you to order it directly. The 164 is a bit of an orphan, a lot of parts catalogs just assume the 140 parts are the same, and only in some cases are they right. Lately the best experts on early Volvos I've worked with were Hi Performance Auto, the two owners are regulars on turbobricks and always know their poo poo. http://hiperformanceautoservice.com/ If you have trouble finding the right bearings I'd give them a call, and put them on speed dial.
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Jan 29, 2017 06:01
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LloydDobler posted:I've done them. If you're lucky, wash the bearings and they should have a number on them that would allow you to order it directly. The 164 is a bit of an orphan, a lot of parts catalogs just assume the 140 parts are the same, and only in some cases are they right. Lately the best experts on early Volvos I've worked with were Hi Performance Auto, the two owners are regulars on turbobricks and always know their poo poo. http://hiperformanceautoservice.com/ Basically I bought a bearing kit from IPD but the bearings look a little different from what was in there... slightly shorter? But otoh there's no sign of a rubber seal anywhere so I'm not sure the previous guy did it right anyway. The kit came with two metal 'caps', and while I'm pretty sure one needs to go over the inner bearing, should I also put one over the outer bearing?
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Jan 29, 2017 06:06
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FWIW, my local (Stockholm) go-to dealer of classic Volvo parts has the same fromt wheel bearing part for 140, 164 and some early 240's. (I just go there for B20 engine bits, until the day I happen to acquire a 544 needing a restomod)
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Jan 29, 2017 08:35
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Pham Nuwen posted:Basically I bought a bearing kit from IPD but the bearings look a little different from what was in there... slightly shorter? But otoh there's no sign of a rubber seal anywhere so I'm not sure the previous guy did it right anyway. It's been too long for me, not sure where those caps should go. There definitely should be some kind of rubber seal on the inside of the hub though. Even the 122 had something there, although it was felt.
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Jan 30, 2017 16:08
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Replaced the subframe bushings in my '98 XC over the weekend. The guys who say you can pry them out from underneath must be total masochists. After 5 minutes spent fruitlessly prying at the first one, I said to hell with it, dropped the subframe, and used a deadblow to knock them out from the top. Much easier.
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Jan 30, 2017 19:42
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had everything working fine in the 760 and then noticed a little oil leaking out of the banjo fitting in the turbo and decided to try and fix it the fitting broke off in the turbo
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Jan 30, 2017 19:44
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zundfolge posted:Replaced the subframe bushings in my '98 XC over the weekend. The guys who say you can pry them out from underneath must be total masochists. After 5 minutes spent fruitlessly prying at the first one, I said to hell with it, dropped the subframe, and used a deadblow to knock them out from the top. Much easier. Huh, maybe they changed the bushing design or fitment into the subframe at the same time as they started putting in those 4-bolt lower control arms or something, 'cause I did my bushing from underneath on my '97 S70 without too much swearing?
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Jan 31, 2017 01:21
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Nidhg00670000 posted:Huh, maybe they changed the bushing design or fitment into the subframe at the same time as they started putting in those 4-bolt lower control arms or something, 'cause I did my bushing from underneath on my '97 S70 without too much swearing? I think the mounts are all the same in the P80 cars. I had two issues with working from underneath - I couldn't get the car jacked up high enough to use my long prybar, much less swing a hammer hard enough to get it in between the bushing and the frame, and the mounts were still pretty intact so I couldn't get the metal sleeve out of the middle. I have a couple of floor jacks and the Harbor Freight engine support bar, so it wasn't a big deal to drop the subframe.
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Jan 31, 2017 03:10
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Big Bowie Bonanza posted:had everything working fine in the 760 and then noticed a little oil leaking out of the banjo fitting in the turbo and decided to try and fix it I look forward to your every post in this thread, lol
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Jan 31, 2017 22:44
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please enjoy my ineptitude anyhow question does anyone know the torque value for the bolt for the oil supply line on the turbo for 1990 760 turbos? the fitting was removed and a new one put in but even the new one leaks. i tried googling it and found torque values for a bunch of other stuff and some links that might help but they're dead
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Jan 31, 2017 22:58
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I'm not sure what the torque spec is but are you using new crush washers between the bolt and the line, if you're using them at all?
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Feb 1, 2017 01:49
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yes brand new crush washers
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Feb 1, 2017 02:49
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Are the banjo bolts M12? If so, they should just be torqued to something like 15-20Nm. If you want to google for actual specs, they should be the same for whatever turbo you have (Mitsubishi TD04?).
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Feb 1, 2017 09:03
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Pham Nuwen posted:Basically I bought a bearing kit from IPD but the bearings look a little different from what was in there... slightly shorter? But otoh there's no sign of a rubber seal anywhere so I'm not sure the previous guy did it right anyway. Got the scoop from an external forum. Basically there are two caps because there were two different stub axle diameters across the years of 144/164 production, and two cotter pins for similar reasons. I have dropped off the hub at a local shop because I couldn't get the races out. They're going to pull the old races and press in the new ones for $20, which seems very reasonable. Edit: I have to bleed the brake systems now because you can't remove the caliper without disconnecting a brake line. There are 8 nipples in the system. Pham Nuwen fucked around with this message at 02:21 on Feb 3, 2017 |
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Feb 2, 2017 19:47
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It looks like I'm inheriting a 2000 V70 XC AWD/SE. I've got a few dumb questions I hope I can get some help with. How different is the stereo faceplate from the 2000 to the 2001 V70? I want to replace the mounting unit with a single din, but all the ones I keep finding are for 2001+, like this one: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Car-Radio-Stereo-Single-Din-Dash-Kit-Harness-for-2001-2004-Volvo-S60-V70-XC70/331855271629 Is there a better place to find a reasonably priced one? I know modern Volvos use VIDA, but I'd like to have a physical book. I found a Haynes but it specifically says it doesn't cover the AWD models. In general it should be close enough, though, right? https://www.amazon.com/Volvo-V70-Service-Repair-Manual/dp/0857339079 What's the best place to learn all the weak points of a particular Volvo? I know I've got to look at the ETM, trans mounts, and a half dozen other places, but if I could find a forum or site that's full of such useful info it'd be great.
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Feb 3, 2017 19:14
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You don't need an additional faceplate to put an aftermarket stereo in a 2000 V70 - it's a standard double-DIN opening. You might have to trim some plastic out of it to fit some stereos but you don't need any extra parts. That Haynes manual is wrong for your car, you want this one but it might leave you in the dark on some repairs. The AWD models use a completely different rear suspension and fuel tank that's pretty hard to work on so be wary of that. Honestly, it's worth dropping the money on VIDA if you think you'll own the car for any period of time. Swedespeed, Matthew's Volvo Site, and Robert DIY on YouTube all have good information about what to look out for in these models and how to fix it, although I'd take some of the writeups on Matthew's with a grain of salt - some people overcomplicate simple repairs and/or take some dangerous shortcuts.
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Feb 3, 2017 19:37
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Yeah there's a few P80 diehards who are very helpful here: http://forums.swedespeed.com/forumdisplay.php?9-S70-V70-amp-V70XC-(1998-2000) The platform your car was built on is called P80, started in 1993 as the 850. Your chassis is functionally identical to the 850 for the most part. Even though the car that came after it is called P2, your platform is not P1. And yes, here is the opening in my C70 showing someone else how I ground grooves in it with a dremel to bend the mount tabs in to it. I have a pocket taking up the lower half of the double DIN opening. See the rail? You might have to sand that down for a double DIN stereo. Other than that, they drop right in. And the wiring adapters that Crutchfield/Amazon/Metra sells works beautifully.  
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Feb 4, 2017 04:32
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So I'm in the process of starting my "new" car search to replace my wife's high mileage 2004 mazda3 wagon. Before this car she had an 850 and she grew up in a Volvo family so she wants a Volvo again. We're looking for 2009 - 2012 based on price, and at the c30, s60, and xc60 are the models we are considering. There is no big rush, so we are looking for the best deal. My main question is this: are there any big reliability or problem issues with those cars for those years?
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Feb 6, 2017 02:46
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The C30 is heavily related to the Mazda3, so there's that.
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Feb 6, 2017 03:26
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Any Volvo after 2006 is going to be pretty drat bulletproof, they really got the reliability down again after a couple rough years.
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Feb 6, 2017 07:08
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Cool, right now we are looking to get a 2011+ c30 pending a test drive. The thing that is going to take us awhile is that we want specific packages and a manual transmission, and it seems like the take rate on the manual was extremely low.
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Feb 6, 2017 20:19
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Hi Volvo thread, I need someone to double check my diag logic here. I've got a 1989 245 that will not run. It cranks, and it will even run for a few seconds on ether (or rather, as long as you keep giving it ether), and I have fuel at the rail while cranking. I do not get a few second fuel pump pulse on key-on (do older Volvos do that? I know some cars don't), only while cranking it over. The fuel pressure regulator is new, as is the engine coolant temp sensor, and the fuel pump relay. I am thinking that the crank position sensor may be to blame here, and probably something else that I haven't considered. Help me? Terrible Robot fucked around with this message at 23:19 on Feb 7, 2017 |
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Feb 7, 2017 23:16
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Cross-posting from the general questions thread in case anyone here has some special old-Volvo insight:Pham Nuwen posted:Finally got a video of the noise coming from my 1970 Volvo 164:
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Feb 10, 2017 17:29
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Terrible Robot posted:Hi Volvo thread, I need someone to double check my diag logic here. I've got a 1989 245 that will not run. It cranks, and it will even run for a few seconds on ether (or rather, as long as you keep giving it ether), and I have fuel at the rail while cranking. I do not get a few second fuel pump pulse on key-on (do older Volvos do that? I know some cars don't), only while cranking it over. The fuel pressure regulator is new, as is the engine coolant temp sensor, and the fuel pump relay. I am thinking that the crank position sensor may be to blame here, and probably something else that I haven't considered. The fact that it runs with starter fluid makes me think this is probably not the issue, but... check the fuse / fuse holder that comes off the positive battery terminal and feeds the computer.
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Feb 10, 2017 18:21
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Pham Nuwen posted:Cross-posting from the general questions thread in case anyone here has some special old-Volvo insight: Definitely wheel speed related or possibly driveshaft related. Take off the front wheels and check: Brake backing discs for rubbing on the rotors, especially at the bottom. Rocks caught in the calipers, take a flashlight and search around Pry the pads back and make sure they slide freely Make sure calipers are tight and don't move Check the wheel bearings for snugness or play. There should be no play. This is easier when the pads are pried back in the previous step. Check anything else for fresh signs of rubbing, like a brake hose rubbing on the tire or something. If all that looks good then get under and inspect the driveshaft. Center bearings go bad a lot and will make a wheel speed noise, although in your car it should be about 3.3 or 3.7 times per tire revolution.
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Feb 11, 2017 05:26
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Weirdly, two days in a row I've driven it in the afternoon after a warm day and it's been perfect, no noise. This morning, though, it was noisy as captured in the video.
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Feb 11, 2017 06:24
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Does anyone have any tips for getting out the pinch bolt on the lower control arm ball joint on an 850? I got the nut off okay, but the bolt is rusted completely stuck. I've tried penetrating fluid, as much heat as i dare that close to the cv boot, impact gun and a sledgehammer. It doesn't move at all, and i've now also managed to round the bolt head. Its not threaded into the clamp part, just rusted tight. I guess the next step is grinding off the rest of the head and drill out the bolt, but that's also a PITA.
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Feb 15, 2017 22:54
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When I ran into that problem in my S70 I used a torch, a pin punch, and a small sledgehammer. It took a few rounds of heat and hammering but it eventually came loose. If you're worried about the CV boot, you can take the axle nut off, remove the bolts that hold the strut to the knuckle, pop the axle out of the hub, and move it off to one side so that it's not in the line of fire. 
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Feb 16, 2017 15:23
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If I'm going to Harbor Freight to buy tools to change the spark plugs on my 2005 V50 T5 AWD, what do I need? I have no tools now but I'm not loving paying $200ish parts and labor to get it done by a mechanic.
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Feb 20, 2017 01:06
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Well here's a decent walkthrough for spark plug change on your car, that lists the tools he used. If you currently have zero tools, I think the best bang for your buck is one of the HF tool sets. This one regularly goes on sale for like $160, and is definitely decent and pretty comprehensive for a beginner set. Volvo loves torx, and it includes a good assortment. The pliers and such are garbage (better than nothing) but the included sockets, ratchets, and extensions are pretty nice at the price level. It will not include a torque wrench however. I changed many sets of plugs before I got one myself, but you do have to be careful not to overtorque the threads in your aluminum head. HF does sell a 3/8 torque wrench for $19.99, and I imagine it would keep you from messing up your motor but I dunno how much trust I have in it to be accurate. :P angryrobots fucked around with this message at 02:12 on Feb 20, 2017 |
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Feb 20, 2017 02:09
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The 3/8" torque wrench is the only HF tool I've been unhappy with, mine doesn't read accurately and I stripped threads out of holes a couple times before I realized what was going on. To do the plugs in a V50 you really only need a T27 or T30 torx bit for the coil cover, a 6 or 7mm socket to loosen the clamps for the intake tube, an 8 or 10mm socket for the bolts that hold down the coils, and a 5/8" plug socket for the spark plugs. I might just have a poor memory but I swear I ran into some hardware sizes that were different than the ones called out in the DIY that angryrobots linked when I did the plugs in my V50. If you plan on doing a bunch of work on the car in the future, you could get the big tool set that angryrobots posted, but if you're just looking to knock out this job you could probably get away with a 3/8" drive ratchet, a basic socket set, some extensions, the torx bits, and the spark plug socket. As far as actually doing the work, the DIY guide angryrobots posted is good but you don't need to use antiseize on the spark plugs, that's what the plating is for. Volvo plugs are the best option but they're super pricy. When I did the plugs in my V50 I bought Bosch FR7MPP10s - they're very similar to the OEM plugs if not the same and they're much less expensive. If you don't buy a torque wrench, tighten the new plugs until they're snug and then tighten them another quarter turn or so. That should be tight enough and you won't risk stripping anything out. Oh, and wait till the engine cools off before doing this job - doing it while it's hot increases the risk of stripping the threads. SUSE Creamcheese fucked around with this message at 06:09 on Feb 20, 2017 |
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Feb 20, 2017 05:53
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I still recommend the anti seize myself, also keep in mind that spark plugs have a crush washer so they'll feel like things are stripping, sort of. Then suddenly they'll be firm. That's when you do the final snug.
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Feb 20, 2017 07:54
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Thank you all for the advice.
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Feb 20, 2017 14:24
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My 164's timing is at 15 degrees, could that be why I'm getting poor gas mileage, low power, and what appears to be unburned fuel dripping out the back at idle? Oddly, my spark plugs look perfect: dry, good color. This is a B30A engine.
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Mar 5, 2017 01:58
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Try setting it to 10 degrees before TDC at idle with the vacuum line disconnected. Are you sure it's unburned fuel coming out the tailpipe? Not sure how that would happen unless it's massively over fueling somehow, does it have carbs or EFI? A couple weeks ago I was merging onto the highway in my '00 R and the low oil pressure light came on, I dropped the pan today and found this. Pretty sure CSB did something to this O-ring :
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Mar 5, 2017 03:23
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