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I don't blame you for wanting a v8 m3 but you keep eating the worst part of the depreciation curve when you keep buying new cars and not sticking with them
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Mar 5, 2017 16:56
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Finally find a good condition hood in my color for a reasonable price but it's pick up only in tampa god dammit. Dammit different part number not interchangable anyway  I'll never find a hood.
Preoptopus fucked around with this message at 19:30 on Mar 5, 2017 |
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Mar 5, 2017 17:03
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I finally got around to replacing the catback on my 318i. I decided it to do it in my garage by myself, which turned out fine. Getting the old one out was relatively easy, but they weren't moving with heat or force, so I attempted to dremel them off, but was running out of disc far too fast.  Borrowed a grinder, problem solved.  I think it may have been hitting the subframe????  I ran out of steam at that point, and needed a friend to come help me get the rest of it installed. I bought all new hardware, so it went together quickly.  It's still relatively loud but isn't hitting the body of the car anymore. I haven't driven it much, but it's definitely lower and better exhaust note. Swapped from winter tires to some high quality Sumitohomo round black 185/70/14s, and its time for spring. 
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Mar 5, 2017 21:56
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Black kidney grills really sharpen things up. Thinking about picking up a touch up kit to deal with the pesky rock chips though. Anyone ever use one?
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Mar 5, 2017 22:28
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Popete posted:Black kidney grills really sharpen things up. Thinking about picking up a touch up kit to deal with the pesky rock chips though. Anyone ever use one? https://www.drcolorchip.com/ Get that and you won't regret it. It's the easiest and best chip repair kit out there.
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Mar 6, 2017 00:40
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I had to fight some warping and need to make some corrections with Mr. Propane Torch, but the exhaust is on and the car feels GREAT. Need to take it for another long drive to see if the misfire shows up again
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Mar 6, 2017 01:58
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MrChips posted:https://www.drcolorchip.com/ Get that and you won't regret it. It's the easiest and best chip repair kit out there. Cool that's what I was looking for, just wanna do touchup on a few spots. Thanks.
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Mar 6, 2017 02:26
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BraveUlysses posted:I don't blame you for wanting a v8 m3 but you keep eating the worst part of the depreciation curve when you keep buying new cars and not sticking with them This doesnt really apply to m cars
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Mar 6, 2017 03:30
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Koirhor posted:This doesnt really apply to m cars Yes it does, unless you have an Individual car or something optioned rarely with very low miles.
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Mar 6, 2017 04:09
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I don't get why bmws drop like a stone. A 2010 jeep srt is still worth 30 grand.
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Mar 6, 2017 04:43
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Preoptopus posted:I don't get why bmws drop like a stone. A 2010 jeep srt is still worth 30 grand. Because it doesn't cost a bajilillion dollars to fix a jeep. front brake rotors for a 2015 SRT8 cherokee are $90, a caliper is $315 http://www.factorymoparparts.net/je...part_name=rotor front brake rotors for a 2015 X6m are $729 a set, a caliper is $go gently caress yourself.
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Mar 6, 2017 04:50
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Powershift posted:Because it doesn't cost a bajilillion dollars to fix a jeep. A Beginner's Guide to BMW Ownership (The marmot is your BMW, the cricket bat is the cooling system)
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Mar 6, 2017 05:41
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Raluek posted:Counterpoint: V8 True! BraveUlysses posted:I don't blame you for wanting a v8 m3 but you keep eating the worst part of the depreciation curve when you keep buying new cars and not sticking with them Also true  . But hey, a 30k 2011 M3 is past the worst so maybe I'm finally make a wise choice? 
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Mar 6, 2017 05:44
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Raluek posted:Counterpoint: V8 Mat; just think if Morgan Freeman was narrating your life, what would he say right now? As somebody that watched the E90 market for probably two years before having the cash to buy mine I will say that right now is the prime time to get one. You have the choice between ones not terribly expensive with a reasonable amount of miles or one nicely equipped with low miles that has potential for keeping for a long time. Some car blog/podcast people I've even heard say that the E9x is pretty much bottoming out for values and won't be changing much. Look at the E46 pricing going bananas right now. Popete has himself a sweet ride that just needs to be maintained and not crashed and will probably not go down in value. There are not many cars you can say that about. I opted for a lower mile model that was the most I was willing to spend and I have no regrets about it. Just today I took my friend out for a bit of a hoon while the sun was shining and let him have a go in it. He loved it so much that he texted a few hours later saying that he was still blown away at how cool it was.
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Mar 6, 2017 05:49
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Lightbulb Out posted:I think it may have been hitting the subframe???? Koirhor posted:This doesnt really apply to m cars
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Mar 6, 2017 12:56
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NitroSpazzz posted:Ever OEM E30 exhaust I've removed or seen has that dip, pretty sure it's there so you don't hit the subframe My new OEM piece doesn't have a flat part  but I think my M20 exhausts do? I'll look when I finally get them out for spring.
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Mar 6, 2017 16:05
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I threw new Lemfroder ZHP control arms on the car yesterday, but broke one of the delrin inserts in my Treehouse Racing solid FCABs. THR has gone out of business, but fortunately the Bimmerworld TrackCAB seems to be an exact copy and they verified that their $20 replacement inserts fit the THR FCABs. Crisis averted. http://www.bimmerworld.com/BimmerWorld-E46-Non-M-TrackCAB-Replacement-Bushing-Set.html
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Mar 6, 2017 17:30
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A buddy is likely going to purchase this car after work today. Anything big to look out for on the 128i's?
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Mar 6, 2017 17:34
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Taking the e46 in tomorrow, the original plan was to a do an Inspection 2 at my indy shop. They wanted to take a look at the car first to determine what in particular needs servicing, I at least want to get a valve adjustment done and out of the way. I plan to talk to them about doing the VANOS oil pump disk/cam bolts and seals (Beisan Systems) since they'll be in there anyways. The only thing left to do will be replacing the solenoid pack for the VANOS but that I can do on my own later. Talked with another shop who has a good amount of experience installing subframe reinforcement kits, plan to do that possibly next month. Lots I want to do on this car but I need to get the big ticket maintenance issues squared away first.
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Mar 6, 2017 17:51
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I wouldn't do the standard subframe reinforcement kits, they will still fail. If you still want to do plates then I would be doing the Redish kit. If you want to keep the car a long time and want to actually fix the issue I would be doing the Vince Bar.
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Mar 6, 2017 17:58
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what was the point of buying a low mileage car if you're just going to drain your wallet on the subframe reinforcement?
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Mar 6, 2017 18:08
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CornHolio posted:A buddy is likely going to purchase this car after work today. At 50k miles or so, not much other than the usual signs of rust, accident, etc. On the N52 engines, spark plugs aren't until 100k, cooling system is also usually good until 100. Might need brake pads soon? Should be well sorted until a lot closer to 100, honestly.
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Mar 6, 2017 18:27
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BlackMK4 posted:I wouldn't do the standard subframe reinforcement kits, they will still fail. The impression I've gotten from the various forums is a welded subframe kit (Turner) is a good way to go. I won't be tracking the car and frankly my driving style is pretty tame so I don't expect to be over stressing the mounts. The other option is subframe foam which I could do myself for about half the cost of a plate kit. But it makes me a bit uneasy because how do you ever really know you did it correctly? BraveUlysses posted:what was the point of buying a low mileage car if you're just going to drain your wallet on the subframe reinforcement? As I mentioned I wasn't on the hunt specifically for a low mileage car. I wanted something under 100k for sure, but condition of the vehicle was more important. Also factoring in that I didn't have to travel half way across the country to buy a car and drive it back with all the associated costs I feel I got a decent bargain on one locally. Maybe I'm being overly paranoid about the subframe, as I mentioned it won't be tracked. I still have nightmares from when by RTAB pocket ripped out on the e36 though.
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Mar 6, 2017 19:02
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Alarbus posted:At 50k miles or so, not much other than the usual signs of rust, accident, etc. On the N52 engines, spark plugs aren't until 100k, cooling system is also usually good until 100. Might need brake pads soon? Was the HPFP issue only on the 135i?
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Mar 6, 2017 19:08
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CornHolio posted:Was the HPFP issue only on the 135i? Yeah, and really only on the early N54 cars. N55 has an updated design, and the N52 doesn't have turbos, so it doesn't have the HPFP. Honestly, the 128 is a great "classic" BMW if you like the styling. Two door, NA inline 6, RWD, and that one even has a stick.
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Mar 6, 2017 19:29
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Popete posted:The impression I've gotten from the various forums is a welded subframe kit (Turner) is a good way to go. I won't be tracking the car and frankly my driving style is pretty tame so I don't expect to be over stressing the mounts. The other option is subframe foam which I could do myself for about half the cost of a plate kit. But it makes me a bit uneasy because how do you ever really know you did it correctly?
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Mar 6, 2017 19:42
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Somewhat Heroic posted:V8 M3!!!! I just flipped to 28k miles the other day which ain't bad for a daily driver, my drive in is just long enough to get the diff warmed up and then 3 miles of doing lurid power slides. My favorite thing to do with new riders is to "briskly' accelerate in 1st (i.e. not briskly for this car, but quicker than most cars) to about 5000 rpm, and then gently short shift into 2nd and just hammer it to redline and watch people act like they're on one of those roller coaster cams.
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Mar 6, 2017 20:58
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gently caress reddish. Find some good metalworker who will weld in some big rear end plates and go wild. Absolutely no reason to spend so much cash on some bits of steel.
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Mar 6, 2017 21:19
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Bape Culture posted:gently caress reddish. Find some good metalworker who will weld in some big rear end plates and go wild. Absolutely no reason to spend so much cash on some bits of steel. I'd never do just a plate setup, but it seemed like they had the most comprehensive kit.
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Mar 6, 2017 21:32
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AI, I come to you for help. The car is dirty because it rained yesterday and I haven't had time to wash it. Last week I bought a new (to me) 2014 Cooper S hardtop. It's my second MINI, first with a stick, and so far I'm having a great time with it. No complaints there. But here's the thing. The stripes it has on it right now are...  ...very pedestrian. Don't get me wrong the black looks okay but I feel like the whole car look could be much more dynamic. The good news is with the help of the Mighty Stripes company I can pretty much get any color/thickness of stripe I desire...but I'm having trouble deciding on a color that would compliment the midnight blue color. My first inclination is to go with chartreuse. MiniMania has some chartreuse exterior mirror covers I could start with, and then go for the stripes on top of that. I was basing my idea off this Manhart Racing MINI I saw on the internet. Obviously it's not exactly the same color, but I liked the darker colored car with the charteuse-y colored accents. I don't think I'll be dipping my wheel color, though.  Thoughts? Other color suggestions? I definitely want to make it more AI. It's too boring right now.
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Mar 7, 2017 00:50
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A haiku: Sell it and buy an M3. AI goes way up, boring goes way down. Then, do a burnout.
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Mar 7, 2017 02:07
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Somewhat Heroic posted:Mat; just think if Morgan Freeman was narrating your life, what would he say right now? Probably something folksy about my intense attraction to weird car interior color combos and how it's like some kind of AI version of foot fetishism? I may have the wrong fetish though. He'd probably direct me towards a car like this, which nodoze already helped me out with info on: https://seattle.craigslist.org/tac/ctd/5998277635.html. I never get tired of the pictures of yours btw. Question for the thread in general, if a person were getting ready to trade in their 2016 Audi that is essentially a perfect low mile specimen of the model with the exception of a big fat windshield chip, should they replace the windshield to maximize negotiating ease and reinforce the appearance of perfection? I'm thinking a strong yes. Asking for a friend Ether Frenzy posted:A haiku: 
Mat_Drinks fucked around with this message at 05:37 on Mar 7, 2017 |
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Mar 7, 2017 04:30
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Mat_Drinks posted:2106 Audi You're really trying to beat the depreciation curve.
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Mar 7, 2017 04:38
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Bape Culture posted:gently caress reddish. Find some good metalworker who will weld in some big rear end plates and go wild. Absolutely no reason to spend so much cash on some bits of steel. Their methods are good, but yeah, I've done the job and I'm just some nerd who bought a tig and watched youtube videos. If you can have some plates welded in with holes for rosettes and a mini tube-frame notched and welded to the rear shock towers and the diff mounting points you can stiffen the gently caress out of the chassis. Although, any DIY chassis welding should be done with supervision because you will set the car on fire A LOT.
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Mar 7, 2017 05:24
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What actually needs doing at 60k on an N55 135i?
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Mar 7, 2017 05:35
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has your water pump exploded yet?
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Mar 7, 2017 05:38
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Mat_Drinks posted:True! If we want to talk about wise choices you should keep the S3 and grab an E39 M5.
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Mar 7, 2017 05:42
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TWSS posted:has your water pump exploded yet? I have 55k on my 2007 N55 535xiT and the local BMW shop who has been taking care of it for a few years has not wanted to take my money to replace the water pump. They keep checking it out and they swear it's not worth doing preemptively.
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Mar 7, 2017 05:44
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My friend's blew at 70k km ( n55 135i). There was no advance warning by the computer, just a temp gauge that went from "normal" to "please turn off the engine" in an instant.
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Mar 7, 2017 06:09
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Mat_Drinks posted:Question for the thread in general, if a person were getting ready to trade in their 2016 Audi that is essentially a perfect low mile specimen of the model with the exception of a big fat windshield chip, should they replace the windshield to maximize negotiating ease and reinforce the appearance of perfection? I'm thinking a strong yes. Asking for a friend Chip repair or just leave it as is, you've already sunk enough into it.
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Mar 7, 2017 06:13
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