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OSU_Matthew posted:That whatever you buy should be considered expendable, considering rust and degradation from not being in a conditioned environment, and it being an easy target for arbitrary theft. A cheap floor jack would be 5-10% of the weight of my car.
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Mar 6, 2017 17:57
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rdb posted:You don't need to heat a bearing red hot to get it on. Maximum swell happens at like 250F, I forget the actual number but it's far below red hot. In fact if you heat one hot enough to change the color to that bluish purple you have ruined the bearing. Its not for bearings. Its for rusty/stuck bolts and fasteners. Humbug fucked around with this message at 18:01 on Mar 6, 2017 |
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Mar 6, 2017 17:59
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My folks are asking me to repaint an iron railing in their house. Need to get the old chipped paint off. What's the least manual labor intensive solution? 
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Mar 6, 2017 18:03
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Uthor posted:What's the least manual labor intensive solution? Media blasting
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Mar 6, 2017 18:08
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And if you're going to go through the trouble of removing them for blasting you might want to consider getting it powder coated instead of painted. It's really not that expensive, the finish can be very good and is typically more durable than paint.
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Mar 6, 2017 18:13
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OSU_Matthew posted:just ignore factory included scissor jack Or worse, one of the "engineered" factory jacks like Mercedes uses (used?). I learned my lesson with those motherfuckers almost 30 years ago when we were jacking up my dad's brand-new 300E to take a rear wheel off, only to have the entire jack (which is really just a little spindle with almost no footprint) rotate and drop the car right on the loving garage floor. In other news, I just spent 45 minutes getting the old 6" vise I bought into its component parts. Everything looks great, but man, the dynamic jaw had a little bit of mushroom in the last inch and it was damned tough to get that bastard apart. It's apart now, though and everything looks really good. It's as simple as a machine can get, but at almost 100 years old, it's just impressive that it can be fully-functional and as good as a new one. There was a bit of slop in the screw, but it was easy to see the issue once it got apart -- the set screw of the collet on the main screw was fully deformed. That'll do it. I'll get a new set screw and it may need a bit of a shim, but it should be dead-on when I put it back together.  So I'm going to fully repaint this thing. What is the best way to deal with all of the bangs and blows its seen on the jaw? Just paint over? Grind down some? Fill? 
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Mar 6, 2017 18:21
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EVERYWHERE 
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I'd say just grind it down, there's so much meat on that thing that it doesn't matter. Then paint it.
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Mar 6, 2017 18:29
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I'd just paint it as is. It is a tool, it will get more eventually.
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Mar 6, 2017 18:30
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I'd say leave them: they are marks of honour, like a German dualling scar on the left cheek.
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Mar 6, 2017 18:31
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kastein posted:I'd just paint it as is. It is a tool, it will get more eventually.  Maybe hit it with a wire wheel and acetone to knock some of the crap off that may affect adhesion and then paint it. Some dings and dents aren't gonna hurt anything. Boaz MacPhereson fucked around with this message at 19:21 on Mar 6, 2017 |
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Mar 6, 2017 19:07
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Safety Dance posted:Media blasting Um, no. That's probably be the most intensive. They are a single piece going around the opening on the upper level and spiraling down two flights of stairs. I'd need to cut them into pieces and learn how to weld to put them back together. I was hoping for something like a flapper wheel on a grinder or such. I don't really have knowledge of spinning tools like that, so don't know what I'd call it. I stuck a wire wheel on a drill when I did the railing outside, but it didn't work great and too forever. Uthor fucked around with this message at 19:16 on Mar 6, 2017 |
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Mar 6, 2017 19:14
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A chemical process would be my bet. I used to wire wheel paint off of poo poo when the media blaster wouldn't work, it was a paint in the rear end and eat up wheels like crazy. I used to go through about 20 a week.
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Mar 6, 2017 19:21
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Paint stripper is probably the way to go, especially if you think you can get away with just redoing the hand rail and not the vertical members. Grinding works but you'll get dust EVERYWHERE and probably regret it. I've regretted every time I have sanded indoors.
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Mar 6, 2017 19:22
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Uthor posted:Um, no. That's probably be the most intensive. They are a single piece going around the opening on the upper level and spiraling down two flights of stairs. I'd need to cut them into pieces and learn how to weld to put them back together. So it's staying inside the house or whatever it's in? Yeah, that changes things. A wire wheel on a grinder will probably make short work of it but it's gonna make a hell of a mess, too. Paint dust and wire shreds will get everywhere. If you're just wanting to strip the top part where most of the traffic (hands) is, then chemical might be the way to go like that dude said ^^^.
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Mar 6, 2017 19:23
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Humbug posted:and the professional version  That's loving genius. Why have I never thought of that?brb, gotta go tear apart a microwave... Uthor posted:My folks are asking me to repaint an iron railing in their house. Need to get the old chipped paint off. What's the least manual labor intensive solution? Aircraft Remover + wire wheel for the leftovers. https://www.amazon.com/Rust-Oleum-Automotive-255448-32-Ounce-AircrAft/dp/B003Z8XUAQ
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Mar 6, 2017 19:25
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Cool, thanks.
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Mar 6, 2017 20:15
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BraveUlysses posted:Paint stripper is probably the way to go, especially if you think you can get away with just redoing the hand rail and not the vertical members. Aircraft remover?
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Mar 6, 2017 21:00
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Uthor posted:My folks are asking me to repaint an iron railing in their house. Need to get the old chipped paint off. What's the least manual labor intensive solution? Why not unbolt the railing and set it up outside on some sawhorses? Then attack it with a cupped wire wheel and angle grinder, that's consistently worked best for me when cleaning up and refinishing old metal cakesmith handyman posted:A cheap floor jack would be 5-10% of the weight of my car. Sorry, meant "Compact Trolley Jack" Seminal Flu posted:So I'm going to fully repaint this thing. What is the best way to deal with all of the bangs and blows its seen on the jaw? Just paint over? Grind down some? Fill?
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Mar 6, 2017 21:51
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OSU_Matthew posted:Why not unbolt the railing and set it up outside on some sawhorses? Uthor posted:Um, no. That's probably be the most intensive. They are a single piece going around the opening on the upper level and spiraling down two flights of stairs. I'd need to cut them into pieces and learn how to weld to put them back together.
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Mar 6, 2017 22:19
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I'll second that sanding indoors sucks majorly. I sanded down some drywall with a power sander years ago and am still finding god drat dust everywhere.
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Mar 6, 2017 22:22
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Home depot sells some poo poo called "heirloom max" that would take white off rice, both with it's paint stripping ability, and it's smell, but there would still be a massive amount of fine finishing with all the detail on those parts. you might be able to find somebody with a dry ice blaster to do it indoors, all that would be in the air/all over everything would be the paint that came off, similar to sanding only more thorough.
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Mar 7, 2017 02:36
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If it's not the end of the world, take it off. Whatever you're going to do to remove the paint is better done outside than in.
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Mar 7, 2017 02:38
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Uthor posted:My folks are asking me to repaint an iron railing in their house. Need to get the old chipped paint off. What's the least manual labor intensive solution?
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Mar 7, 2017 02:40
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GnarlyCharlie4u posted:Aircraft Remover + wire wheel for the leftovers. Wear serious chem resistant gloves if you go this route. poo poo is like napalm.
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Mar 7, 2017 13:30
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It's worse, honestly. Methylene chloride and most strippers are bad news. Much like the other kind of stripper.
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Mar 8, 2017 08:08
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if you dont mind industrial deafness a needle scaler would strip that poo poo off quick smart
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Mar 8, 2017 11:24
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norton makes a good paint removal disk https://www.amazon.com/Norton-Abrasives-7660704015-Non-Woven-Grinding/dp/B01EOEKLF6 it's not extremely abrasive and doesn't shoot little pieces of wire everywhere
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Mar 8, 2017 19:01
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A heatgun and a scraper would probably take most of it off, but will be tedious and smell awful. Actually, I think most of the in-place removal methods are going to be tedious and smell awful and possibly be loud and dusty, it's just a matter of which 2-3 of those options you choose.
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Mar 8, 2017 21:10
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Are you sure it can't be taken apart? It looks like there are hinges on it in the picture you posted, are they attached with screws or something? I have a similar railing in my apartment and I'm pretty sure it's bolted together, I can't imagine that it would have been manufactured and installed as one large piece (or welded together in situ).
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Mar 8, 2017 23:00
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Was there ever a budget suggested? Cause pay someone else to do it. Did they have a preferred finish? You could put 2-3 strong coats of enamel over it and, not strip it. It would have character but it could be done with minimal prep.
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Mar 8, 2017 23:26
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Mask off all the carpet/wood nearby with plastic and go to Home Depot and buy a big jug of CitriStrip. It smells lovely and gets the job done.
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Mar 9, 2017 01:26
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eBay score of the week -- I'm walling off a loft in our house starting next week during my Spring Break. I didn't want to hammer nails like some kind of damned animal and I didn't want to have constant compressor noise from the pancake and I didn't want to have to run hose all the way from the big compressor in the garage. So, I was looking for either a newer Dewalt 20V cordless or a Paslode framing nailer. I was looking on eBay and found some sketchy ad that said it was for 2 Paslode Framing nailers with battery problems. I got them for $115 delivered and they showed up today. There were actually 2 guns, in cases, with batteries, chargers and a lot of dead gas cylinders. One of the batteries is charging fine, the other isn't yet. I went to Home Depot and bought two gas cylinders and set each one up... they both shoot nails right through my loving workbench. No tinkering or repair needed... looks like the seller just sold things out of storage auctions and didn't know how to work these nail guns. loving awesome. That was the first time I've used a framing nailer in 30 years, and the first time I've used a gas-powered one at all. A\There's an almost intimidating amount of power in those loving things!
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Mar 9, 2017 02:06
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You know, stripping paint from that iron railing seems like the perfect use case for one of those awesome laser paint/rust/etc strippers. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ppV-265zPrI I've always wondered what those things cost.
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Mar 9, 2017 09:45
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JBark posted:You know, stripping paint from that iron railing seems like the perfect use case for one of those awesome laser paint/rust/etc strippers. The good ones are around $400k and turn paints into the kinds of gasses you really don't want anywhere near human beings.
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Mar 9, 2017 10:02
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Mcqueen posted:norton makes a good paint removal disk I tried one of those on my front porch and it wore down to a nubbin pretty quickly. Didn't work so well for such a large project. I built an infrared heat gun, something like that that might work well on metal since it heats the substrate instead of the paint, loosening the paint's bond  It worked well, but it was too slow for a project as large as my porch, so I just abandoned it and used a wire wheel instead. I still think taking the railing outside would be easiest. After all, someone got that thing in there, there's gotta be a way to take it out.
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Mar 9, 2017 13:08
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 holy gently caress 
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Mar 9, 2017 23:39
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OSU_Matthew posted:I tried one of those on my front porch and it wore down to a nubbin pretty quickly. Didn't work so well for such a large project. Just needs propane and a Arduino controlled track system.
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Mar 9, 2017 23:44
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the spyder posted:Just needs propane and a Arduino controlled track system.
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Mar 10, 2017 00:44
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What direction should I go in for an oscilloscope for automotive use? I work in an electronics/calibration lab, and at work we mostly use Rigol digital scopes for stuff. Should I just get one of those because they're pretty cheap and familiar? Or should I consider a PC-USB (I use a surface pro for other auto related stuff) option or a standalone touchscreen option? Mostly I'll be scoping crank/cam sensors and might use it for that fuel pump commutator currrent diagnostic I've seen on YouTube.
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Mar 10, 2017 03:50
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0toShifty posted:What direction should I go in for an oscilloscope for automotive use? I mostly use a simple UNI-T scopemeter and a Saleae Logic-something (USB logic analyzer with some limited analog capability) around the car. If I just had a 2-channel scopemeter, I'd be perfectly happy However, I have a laptop along anyway (for fiddling with 3rd party ECU) and those extra bits are very portable. A "proper" scope is by far the best in terms of scoping (and I can't imagine anywhere in a car where a Rigol wouldn't be fancy enough), but even the modern digital ones are often a bit bulky to have around/in/under the car (depending on what you're working on), and you have to bring along a power cable. If you can deal with that, go for it. Over the last year, I've gone from having zero good brand-name power tools, to one, and suddenly to four Makita things (corded, not battery). Mainly due to upgrading from cheapo noname tools, and when needing to do so finding decent deals on Makitas. Chop saw, angle grinder, random orbit sander and most recently, a circular saw (since I'm redoing my kitchen and will need to cut lots of flooring and rebuild a section of a wall).  It's not that the cheap power tools don't do the job, and these more expensive ones are not a *huge* improvement in performance or functionality. Just a ton of little details that are simply so much nicer, and at 2-3 times the price I still expect them to last at least that much longer, so it's worth it for the tools that get lots of use just for that. These are also things where I don't really feel I need cordless ones, or at least not strongly enough that it would be worth the cost. Not that there aren't quite a few other comparable brands (though fewer i Sweden than US, it seems), but I have never encountered a Makita tool I didn't like, and the fact that there are plenty of battered old ones still chugging along does say something about their longevity. Still have plenty of "cheap stuff" around though for those things that don't get used too often, and/or hasn't worn out yet. E: Q. ionn fucked around with this message at 10:18 on Mar 10, 2017 |
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