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 New tires. Gonna do some gravel.
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Mar 5, 2017 03:55
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| # ? May 15, 2024 23:13 |
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HenryJLittlefinger posted:
that bike is too clean to be an apocalypse bike with knobbies and an ammo can storage box, riding a bunch of gravel should take care of that
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Mar 5, 2017 19:38
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noticed the bushings on my forks were chewed up when i tossed fork seals in a few weeks ago. Figured i'd bump the valving to be a little softer anyway so ordered guides and opened it all up.  editing shim stack.  fuuuuuuuck. That ellipse is wear through the lower's hardcoat. when i first got it, one fork didnt have any oil in it, I didnt notice anything at the time and serviced them... welp. almost 2 years of daily beatings made the damage apparent. These forks are very much EOS. the PO wrecked the poo poo out of them and I should have never spent a dime making em usable. Looks like its either time to swap in RM250 twin chamber conventionals or spend all the dollars and go inverted. bonus garage 
cursedshitbox fucked around with this message at 20:06 on Mar 5, 2017 |
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Mar 5, 2017 19:53
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I like your bike cave. It makes me miss home.
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Mar 5, 2017 21:26
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Replaced the lovely, $30 headlight assembly that made a buzzing noise above 4krpm at the bezel with a, slightly less lovely, $50 assembly. Also installed the Puig headlight cowling and windscreen I've had sitting around forever. The headlight doesn't buzz anymore, but something up front squeaks when I go over rough road or bumps, and I can't figure out what it is! The new headlight also lets off a much better beam pattern. Not sure if I want to keep the cowling installed. I like the look of it, but it does shake quite a bit, and I think I'll find that annoying after a while. Next step is to change the oil and wash the bike. This winter's been rough, and things are still & sticking.
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Mar 6, 2017 06:13
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its all nice on rice posted:Replaced the lovely, $30 headlight assembly that made a buzzing noise above 4krpm at the bezel with a, slightly less lovely, $50 assembly. Also installed the Puig headlight cowling and windscreen I've had sitting around forever. Take your whole headlamp apart and put really thin beads of silicone everywhere housing and ring and lens and reflector meet. Not that your squeak is coming from there, but that killed some buzz for me and made me feel better about my cheap headlamp assembly choice.
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Mar 6, 2017 06:26
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Installed some stuff to lower my pegs and controls as well as push my clutch pedal out further forward. Seems pretty good so far, definitely gotta get used to the clutch being out so far now. It's actually at my toes instead of the middle of my foot! Also because I'm an idiot, I didn't I stall the brake pedal correctly and it's WAAY too high. Oops
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Mar 7, 2017 01:57
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Clutch...pedal?
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Mar 7, 2017 02:40
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Pretty sure he means shift lever. HenryJLittlefinger posted:Take your whole headlamp apart and put really thin beads of silicone everywhere housing and ring and lens and reflector meet. It could be a number of things: the headlight; cowling mount; headlight mount; turn signal missing the cover; turn signal not missing the cover; instrument cluster. It sounds very similar to a caster wheel squeaking as it rolls.
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Mar 7, 2017 06:18
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its all nice on rice posted:Pretty sure he means shift lever. Haha yep. I was gonna put clutch lever but it didn't sound right..Then got it wrong anyways.
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Mar 7, 2017 08:31
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Bought a stock fender off ebay to replace the lovely fender eliminator the previous owner installed. I think this means I'm officially old.
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Mar 8, 2017 04:55
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Welcome to the salt 'n' pepper pate club, fellow stock fender buyer.
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Mar 8, 2017 16:04
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Coydog posted:
Fixed your post.
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Mar 8, 2017 19:05
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Just gonna drop an 'i told ya so' wrt that silly rear end tool tube
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Mar 8, 2017 19:11
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Gonna be stoked when my current batch of biek work is done. It's really one of those 2 day all weekend jobs, but work sucks rear end so it's taking months. The DRZ was being lovely; So I started taking it apart and making sure the valves/piston are still serviceable. Somehow the valve clearance hasn't changed in almost 10kmi. Hopefully the valves aren't leaky, but if they are then I'm going to mothball it until I have the cash to do a +4mm bore and stroke rebuild a la cursedshitbox. Cracked the fairings on the FZ6 by eating massive poo poo on a dirt road after a rainstorm. So that bike is in the middle of getting a nosejob. New footpegs, bar end mirrors, naked conversion, gonna fix the post-trackday fork seal leak this weekend. Headlight is rewired, but I still need to tap a couple new holes in the upper triple. gently caress E: before people get all worried about me chichevacheing a DRZ. It runs fine, it just started to sputter, die at low RPMs, and run stupidly rich. It could have been a ton of things, and the only real reason I'm dismantling the motor is curiousity, the possibility of a valve leak, and the loving thing burns oil more than I'd like. E2: Thinner base gasket too + 0.3whp 
Marxalot fucked around with this message at 19:36 on Mar 8, 2017 |
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Mar 8, 2017 19:26
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Razzled posted:Just gonna drop an 'i told ya so' wrt that silly rear end tool tube It turned out it wasn't the cause of the sheering bolts, but it does look better. Technically, I didn't really need it once I had mount points on the tail for mountain ride luggage. Definitely looks better without the tube. Can't wait to be able to stow it all under the seat.
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Mar 8, 2017 19:58
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big goofy orange ammo box + portal stickers. its the only way. marxalot yea they don't move. and when they do its time for new valves. You could have tested valve leak prior to tearing it down with some adapters and a compression tester. My poo poo-tier stainless wiseco valves have moved .026mm as of the last check ~6500 miles ago. I should check em again before doin a desert run in a few weeks.
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Mar 8, 2017 20:10
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I forgot I even owned a compression tester, but doesn't the DRZ have some auto decompression gizmo that keeps those from working? Because I still run stock E cams.
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Mar 8, 2017 20:27
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Yes, they all have auto decomp
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Mar 8, 2017 20:31
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set the cylinder at the bottom of stroke with both valves closed and observe the state of the decomp...flip it out of the way if you need to and bobs your uncle.. Its a spring tensioned component with a half moon cut on the lift actuator. I used this procedure to find out 3/4 valves bent on my head.
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Mar 8, 2017 20:38
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changed oil and filter today on the DRZ, apparently woke up with down syndrome and turned a 20 minute affair into a 2 hour one after mistakenly removing the starter torque limiter cover instead of the filter cover. WRONG SIDE DUMBASS gently caress it was a pain trying to finangle the gears back into place
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Mar 8, 2017 21:24
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 My worst fears realized. Up there with dropping a bolt in the gas tank, or into the engine.
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Mar 8, 2017 21:57
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Coydog posted:
Gas tank is easy. Open it up and shake the bolt out.
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Mar 8, 2017 22:07
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If you're suuuuuuuper lucky the bolt that you drop into the engine just bounces around until it reaches the oil pan and eventually comes out five oil changes later. [ASK] me why you should never use feeler gauges held together with a nut and bolt instead of a rivet
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Mar 9, 2017 02:38
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spekaing of dropping things in engines! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4wKPTWXD2Z0  rear end in a top hat converted to dirtmode and making the pig fly.
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Mar 9, 2017 03:26
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Sagebrush posted:[ASK] me why you should never use feeler gauges held together with a nut and bolt instead of a rivet Confirming. I separated the three feelers I was using out from the pack and was using them one at a time on the EX500's valve job. *plink* aaand the feeler fell down into the case. Thank gently caress for stick magnets. Edit: Oh, you mean you dropped the not or bolt holding the pack together into the motor? Yeah, sorry, that's just dumb 
Beach Bum fucked around with this message at 04:41 on Mar 9, 2017 |
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Mar 9, 2017 04:17
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I dunno, I take the bolt out and use the individual blades. Grab one each a little thicker and thinner than my spec so I don't have to keep flipping through the stack and go to town.
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Mar 9, 2017 04:23
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take the stack apart at your table. split it ~where you need, set them aside. lay out the relevant ones in a row on a table. use them one at a time.
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Mar 9, 2017 04:28
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I just put the three or so I need on a wire keyring/zip tie. That way I can switch between them, have a decent handhold with greasy fingers, and they don't go anywhere if I drop it. Viola!
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Mar 9, 2017 04:55
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Coydog posted:I just put the three or so I need on a wire keyring/zip tie. That way I can switch between them, have a decent handhold with greasy fingers, and they don't go anywhere if I drop it. Viola! Yeah this, just with about ten. The zip tie is long enough that you can dangle the others totally out of engine-nicking way and use each blade like it were individual.
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Mar 9, 2017 09:10
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I've been working out in Alabama for a couple weeks and finally came home to about 5 different packages of bike parts for the KLX. I now understand the pain of PO fuckery that everyone else who's bought a used bike feels. The PO on my bike wired it for always on radiator fan and a separate switch to run the lights without the ignition on.  A wild out of place green wire appears!  The rats nest hiding behind the headlight.  Everything removed. I'll hold onto the led trail lights in case I want to use them in the future. I also ordered a jet kit which should be coming in a few days. I picked up a new throttle tube that Amazon said would fit (it doesn't) to fix the sticky throttle tube and I need to get new bullet connectors for the led turn signals I bought. Oh and I also got new tires to replace the dry rotted D606s that sound like a tank on the road. 
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Mar 10, 2017 04:26
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Soon you'll be replacing the fan too because they don't like 100km/h wind being blasted at them while they're trying to spin.
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Mar 10, 2017 04:36
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Slavvy posted:Soon you'll be replacing the fan too because they don't like 100km/h wind being blasted at them while they're trying to spin. Yeah, I have a suspicion that I might. Hopefully I'll be able to get a decent amount of life out of it before it goes out.
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Mar 10, 2017 04:45
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New rear tire today  slick sucker too, kicked out the rear as I was leaving the lot.
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Mar 10, 2017 10:28
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Finished visual inspection/unwrapping of the harness. Everything seems ok, hopefully I'll wrap it back up during the weekend.
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Mar 10, 2017 14:03
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Ooh, I need to do that to chase down some charging issues in my F11, what are you using to re-wrap the harness?
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Mar 10, 2017 15:24
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 Trying to change the headlight bulb. Send help.
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Mar 10, 2017 15:35
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Using the BMW method, I see.
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Mar 10, 2017 16:21
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Jim Silly-Balls posted:Ooh, I need to do that to chase down some charging issues in my F11, what are you using to re-wrap the harness? Decided against plain vinyl tape, I'll go with a cloth tape such as this one I think. Much better looking and more heat resistant, and it seems much cleaner with less sticky residue and stuff.
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Mar 10, 2017 16:53
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| # ? May 15, 2024 23:13 |
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I rebuilt my front rotors on my 08 sv650 (26k miles, former poster penus penus penus in this thread) because they were getting kind of mushy even after I bled them. I noticed one pad was wearing way more than the other one in the same caliper (but just one caliper). So I bought a new K&L seals kit and cleaned them up nice and put EBC pads in  and the braking definitely improved but now there is a buzzing noise everytime I hit the brakes. It doesnt seem to matter what pressure im applying but the frequency of the buzz is definitely linked to how fast the wheel is spinning. But other than that I just dont know whats going on. Also despite a serious improvement, I dont think the braking is as strong as it was when I first bought it a year ago. It occurred I really dont understand how these brakes work (first bike) outside of I must be applying hydraulic pressure through the lever to the calipers. Though it still brakes fine for the moment, the fact it noticeably changed fairly suddenly is alarming to me. I have not noticed any brake fluid leak I've lived a charmed life with car brakes and so gathered very little knowledge along the way
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Mar 10, 2017 21:25
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