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mariooncrack posted:They were trying to hide the dents, scratches, patches, and rust in the ad. Yeah, I had this sinking feeling the moment I saw it and it got worse as I kept digging further. I kept having this foolish notion that it wasn't so bad and that I could make it work before reality sets in and I face the fact that I don't have the time or means to fix it up myself right now. I'd rather pay $6000 for something in far better condition instead of trying to fix this up. Plus, I showed another friend a photo of the title and he pointed out that it was registered to an auto repair shop near Lancaster, PA which just raises even more red flags. And a preliminary VIN check indicates 10 past "incidents" but there's no point in buying a report since I'm going to walk away from this. Probably for the best since this isn't a great time for me to buy another car (especially one that needs some work) since I have other things going on in my life that really take higher priority. I recently started a new job and need to find a new apartment to make the commute work. And it's not like I NEED to have this car since I have a perfectly fine and dependable, though a bit dull and boring, 2013 Impreza that's still going strong. I probably should stay off Craigslist and other ads until I fully settle into a new place. Well, at least I got that out of my system and now know that I would be perfectly happy driving a 2005-2009 Legacy or Outback. Just need to find one in better condition. Also, I finally got a chance to drive stick. 
Edward IV fucked around with this message at 04:53 on Mar 5, 2017 |
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Mar 5, 2017 04:50
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Powershift posted:pull the codes. Forgot to put those in the post — P0300 & P0304. Random misfire and Cyl 4 misfire. The funny thing is, the engine sounded the best it ever has when it was revving itself to redline in park. No misfiring or anything then.
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Mar 5, 2017 14:01
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My wagon run so much better now with the ported and polished turbo and no exhaust leaks. Its like a whole new car. I think my next thing to solve is the saggy butt. Ive got new KYB GR2 struts on it, but the springs are old and tired. A lot of the rally guys and rallyx guys seem to recommend king standard height springs. Any other options? Also do you carry King Jamal?
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Mar 5, 2017 19:26
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No, no deal on King. Primitive Racing is the place to go for those, they are the US importer.net work error posted:I ran out of daylight so I put everything back. Couldn't get that hose off so thankfully I didn't have much to put back. Huh. Looks kind of like an EFI connection, I wonder if there is some sort of a tool to get it off. Seems like the best way is to leave that on and pull off the hose?
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Mar 5, 2017 19:48
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jamal posted:Huh. Looks kind of like an EFI connection, I wonder if there is some sort of a tool to get it off. Seems like the best way is to leave that on and pull off the hose? I tried that initially but the hose has a metal ring on it that keeps it on there tight enough that yanking it isn't enough.
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Mar 5, 2017 20:52
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You could maybe just unbolt that whole plastic thing from the block, then be able to work on it on a bench? That hose is going to have to come off of there, I would probably remove the block and the cut all the way around next to the band clamp.
jamal fucked around with this message at 21:20 on Mar 5, 2017 |
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Mar 5, 2017 21:12
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jamal posted:You could maybe just unbolt that whole plastic thing from the block, then be able to work on it on a bench? That hose is going to have to come off of there, I would probably remove the block and the cut all the way around next to the band clamp. I basically cut right at the metal ring, pulled the hose off then used pliers to pull the metal ring off the 1/2" of the hose that was left, on the engine side. On the turbo side I pulled the white plastic connector off the inlet and did the same thing.
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Mar 6, 2017 02:33
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jamal posted:You could maybe just unbolt that whole plastic thing from the block, then be able to work on it on a bench? That hose is going to have to come off of there, I would probably remove the block and the cut all the way around next to the band clamp. I considered removing the hose next to it but wasn't sure if that would cause a big spill or not. It's tough to tell from that image but I believe it as running from the base there to the engine itself. 
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Mar 6, 2017 20:39
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Oh, yeah, now that I go look at a car, that's a coolant line, so maybe not a good idea.
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Mar 6, 2017 20:48
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Does anyone have any experience with both the 17 Impreza and the previous generation's car? I'm going to look at a base model sedan tonight (we have a van so we don't need a hatch) as well as a pretty nicely kited out 2015 used hatch with 30k kms on it that I'm interested in as a daily driver and looking for other people's impressions before I go to test drive them.
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Mar 8, 2017 17:16
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I haven't driven the previous models, but I just got a '17 5-door, and I really like it. The entertainment system is slightly less temperamental then my wife's Outback, which means it only sometimes doesn't recognize my phone when I plug it in. Lots of room inside, and fun to drive too.
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Mar 8, 2017 19:46
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Not that the Impreza is a fast car but the hatch is faster than the sedan. I don't really know what positive the sedan has over the hatch, but maybe something.
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Mar 8, 2017 21:01
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When're the 5 door wrx coming back? I will need a midlife crisis in a few years.
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Mar 8, 2017 21:39
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When they figure out how to bring something to the table to compete with the Focus RS
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Mar 8, 2017 22:16
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I've got Swift springs on my LGT wagon, and while I like the drop, the ride is a bit stiff (paired with Koni inserts). I'm hesitant to run H&R or other sedan springs on the wagon. Is my best bet to import some pinks? I glanced at coilovers, but they all seem super stiff. King makes wagon springs, but the rates seem just as stiff, if not stiffer than, the Swifts.
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Mar 9, 2017 00:37
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Well my old wagon (98 Outback) has gained a brand new noise. Sometimes when the car is hot and I'm making a left turn it starts making a loud whining sound that follows engine RPM. It will keep making the sound and the steering wheel shudders a bit making low speed turns as well until I turn it off for a few minutes. Obviously it's the power steering so I checked the fluid and it's full/normal color. Is my pump just dying or is air getting in the lines? How much should I expect to pay to get it fixed?
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Mar 9, 2017 06:37
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Hugh G. Rectum posted:Well my old wagon (98 Outback) has gained a brand new noise. Sometimes when the car is hot and I'm making a left turn it starts making a loud whining sound that follows engine RPM. It will keep making the sound and the steering wheel shudders a bit making low speed turns as well until I turn it off for a few minutes. Obviously it's the power steering so I checked the fluid and it's full/normal color. Is my pump just dying or is air getting in the lines? How much should I expect to pay to get it fixed? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GnvnAOc07MI Power steering o-ring and likely the hose clamps. Easy as poo poo to DIY.
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Mar 9, 2017 16:20
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Hugh G. Rectum posted:Well my old wagon (98 Outback) has gained a brand new noise. Sometimes when the car is hot and I'm making a left turn it starts making a loud whining sound that follows engine RPM. It will keep making the sound and the steering wheel shudders a bit making low speed turns as well until I turn it off for a few minutes. Obviously it's the power steering so I checked the fluid and it's full/normal color. Is my pump just dying or is air getting in the lines? How much should I expect to pay to get it fixed? Are there bubbles in the fluid when you check? If so there's definitely air in there. BloodBag posted:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GnvnAOc07MI Try this first since it's dirt cheap and will probably fix it! I recently had to replace the pump (and steering rack ultimately) in my WRX; the OEM pump itself was 400+ dollars. Not cheap.
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Mar 9, 2017 19:00
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I emailed Crawford about the troubles I've had removing the CCV hose on my WRX for the AOS install and here's their advice.quote:Hello there, that new connection is glued together at the factory then snapped onto the tube for the hose in our kit. The easy way to get it apart is to take a pair of pliers and squeeze it on its largest diameter, it will snap and fall apart instantly so you can remove the loose components. Guess I'll just try squeezing it really hard this weekend and seeing if that works. 
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Mar 10, 2017 01:26
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2014 Outback 6 speed ~36k miles I've noticed recently when I'm putting my car into 1st from a stop that there's a metal grinding noise sometimes as I let up on the clutch. I know this is kind of vague but any idea what they could be?
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Mar 10, 2017 02:24
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BloodBag posted:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GnvnAOc07MI I'll check that out thanks. Do you know if the o ring is the same size on a 98?
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Mar 10, 2017 02:57
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Ugh, the extendable visors on the FXT are terrible. Because they extend out of the side of the visor closest to the glass, they bump into the EyeSight module. In order to get them to extend you have yo pull the visor toward you, so it blocks more vertical space and now also lays low enough to block the review mirror. None of this would happen if the tab extended from the other side of the flap. I guess you could swap the passenger and the driver side visors, but then you lose your visor mirror.
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Mar 10, 2017 03:58
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mariooncrack posted:2014 Outback 6 speed ~36k miles Throw out bearing probably.
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Mar 10, 2017 05:24
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net work error posted:I emailed Crawford about the troubles I've had removing the CCV hose on my WRX for the AOS install and here's their advice. I think what he means is just hard enough to break the adhesive bond. Although I would have expected the hose to go after that fitting. Sorry I could not be more helpful with this.
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Mar 10, 2017 06:57
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Hugh G. Rectum posted:I'll check that out thanks. Do you know if the o ring is the same size on a 98? No idea, you could probably phone up a dealer and get the right thing fast. They aren't that expensive.
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Mar 10, 2017 10:13
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BloodBag posted:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GnvnAOc07MI Oh my god your my hero. I have to a T the problem that guy described. I just assumed with 180k miles it was normal and not gently caress with it till something broke. I'll be digging up an o-ring soon.
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Mar 10, 2017 12:40
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tetrapyloctomy posted:Ugh, the extendable visors on the FXT are terrible. Because they extend out of the side of the visor closest to the glass, they bump into the EyeSight module. In order to get them to extend you have yo pull the visor toward you, so it blocks more vertical space and now also lays low enough to block the review mirror. None of this would happen if the tab extended from the other side of the flap. I guess you could swap the passenger and the driver side visors, but then you lose your visor mirror. Hmm. Import right hand drive visors with the mirror on the opposite side and then switch them.
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Mar 11, 2017 02:23
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BloodBag posted:No idea, you could probably phone up a dealer and get the right thing fast. They aren't that expensive. Well slight follow up but I had a friend turn the wheel while it was making noise with the cap off and there's no bubbles at all. So there probably isn't air in the lines/cracked o ring. What does that leave, just a dying pump?
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Mar 11, 2017 03:23
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Hugh G. Rectum posted:Well slight follow up but I had a friend turn the wheel while it was making noise with the cap off and there's no bubbles at all. So there probably isn't air in the lines/cracked o ring. What does that leave, just a dying pump? Mine had no bubbles either. The pump is pulling fluid from the reservoir and there's a slight air leak around that o-ring that will make the pump whine but not bubble the reservoir. Mine would whine when turning left and the steering wheel would shudder and the whole car would sound like it had torque bind, but it really was that o-ring, and I had no bubbles in the reservoir. Just change the o-ring according to the nasioc instructions and it just may go away. Might as well swap the hose clamps for worm gear clamps while you're in there. I didn't and now my pump-side clamp shows that it's losing tension. change the o-ring Bleed the rack<--pdf warning It's for the impreza, but you'll find the outback is very similar. The system will bleed itself some after you change it. May as well try the cheap option first, because pumps and racks are big money, and you may just end up saving one or both with this fix before it degrades into full blown rack/pump replacement from air intrusion. Also, if you change the pump and not the o-ring and the o-ring was the problem, guess what happens? Looks like it's part # 11 in this illustration. Part # 34427AA060 available here, for $1.34
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Mar 11, 2017 11:38
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So what are the odds existing models will be eligible for Android Auto firmware updates?
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Mar 11, 2017 15:01
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If I spend a lot of time at high RPM (pulling from 4500RPM to fuel cut a few times, once I floor it again , it tends to stumble. The CEL isn't triggered*, and it seems to do WOT at redline just fine sometimes. I'm checking fuel pressure (the filter is probably OE and from the last century). I just did the timing belt, water pump, and whole ignition system. My ex-wife did mention some misfiring, but I was beating it like I was at a track day, so I hope she wasn't doing 85mph third gear pulls in a 210K mile old 99 Forester. *kastein this is for you
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Mar 11, 2017 18:46
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Saabaru whines like a bearing is shot (or like it's supercharged) for the first 20 minutes of driving on a cold day, then it quiets down but never goes completely away. Super annoying. Goes away when I remove the PS/alternator belt. I'm pretty sure it's the alternator based on where the sound is coming from. Can I easily replace the pulley or whatever you call the part the belt goes over, or does that involve a complicated alternator rebuild? New alternators are $150. I'm not sure if they're something you'd typically replace over the life of the car, but I'm at 105k miles.
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Mar 11, 2017 21:17
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That's around the time the alternator punked out on my bugeye.
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Mar 11, 2017 21:18
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Friend left me his old water pump from his 2008 Forester. Worked fine, he was doing a timing belt job and replaced it. Does anyone want it along with the old Idlers and tensioner?
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Mar 11, 2017 22:13
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Geology posted:Hmm. Import right hand drive visors with the mirror on the opposite side and then switch them. Nope, the visors are the same -- the flap is on the side that faces the windshield. The extending flap has to be on the side that faces the driver, not the windshield, for it to clear the Eyesight bumps without the visor having to be rotated to a more vertical position. It wouldn't be too hard to cut a piece of stiff plastic for a better overall shape, though. Still, it's a minor complaint for an overall very nice vehicle. (Though I'm beginning to regret blue. I really like the blue, but I swear I'm seeing it everywhere now.)
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Mar 12, 2017 02:00
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jamal posted:I think what he means is just hard enough to break the adhesive bond. Although I would have expected the hose to go after that fitting. Sorry I could not be more helpful with this. Wrapped up the install today. I was able to get the hose off following Crawford's instructions and giving the connector a big squeeze. The rest of the install went about as expected. Only issue after the install was the coolant hoses not being on enough so there was a small leak. I think I got it resolved and everything seems alright after a test drive. Thanks for your help and dealing with my constant questions jamal and everyone.
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Mar 12, 2017 02:03
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Mercury Ballistic posted:So what are the odds existing models will be eligible for Android Auto firmware updates? 0
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Mar 12, 2017 02:41
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-1, because gently caress you, and you're still going to love us and your car because reasons, that's why.
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Mar 12, 2017 03:00
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net work error posted:Wrapped up the install today. I was able to get the hose off following Crawford's instructions and giving the connector a big squeeze. The rest of the install went about as expected. Only issue after the install was the coolant hoses not being on enough so there was a small leak. I think I got it resolved and everything seems alright after a test drive. Cool. After you drive around a bit and get the car up to temp and then cooled back down make sure the coolant is full at the upper tank.
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Mar 12, 2017 03:09
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jamal posted:Cool. After you drive around a bit and get the car up to temp and then cooled back down make sure the coolant is full at the upper tank. I refilled the coolant earlier and went for a longer drive and no coolant lost. Going to check again tomorrow morning to see if anything else might have leaked.
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Mar 12, 2017 03:49
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