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Alokgen posted:Finally finished my bouncer from a few pages back. I'm not sold on the armor. I was rocking 2bb'ing with the skin and gems, but the second I started on the metallics I got really lazy. Armour looks good to me, especially the chestplate, and the amethyst is fantastic!
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Mar 14, 2017 08:22
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UK folks: Where are you getting the parchment paper for your wet palettes? Everything I can find has a wax coating and my attempts to treat it with hot water has left me with paper that is permeable but fraying.
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Mar 14, 2017 13:19
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Alokgen posted:Finally finished my bouncer from a few pages back. I'm not sold on the armor. I was rocking 2bb'ing with the skin and gems, but the second I started on the metallics I got really lazy. This owns, fyi.
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Mar 14, 2017 14:47
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Bistromatic posted:Here's them on dickblick: Rad thanks!
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Mar 14, 2017 15:31
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Lethemonster posted:UK folks: Where are you getting the parchment paper for your wet palettes? Everything I can find has a wax coating and my attempts to treat it with hot water has left me with paper that is permeable but fraying. When I was using one I would just buy daler rowney paper for wet palettes.
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Mar 14, 2017 16:03
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Cross posting my completed Kataphron Destroyers. Zuul the Cat posted:Mostly finished my 6 Kataphron Destroyers. Gotta touch up some stuff (dry brush the mud on the tracks, drill the phosphor barrel.) Posting images always helps to point out spots i missed/need to fix up.
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Mar 14, 2017 16:18
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What do people put on top of Martian Ironcrust/Ironearth?
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Mar 14, 2017 21:50
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MasterSlowPoke posted:What do people put on top of Martian Ironcrust/Ironearth? I do a heavy ryza rust drybrush, then a light drybrush of kislev flesh:  
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Mar 14, 2017 21:57
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GuardianOfAsgaard posted:I do a heavy ryza rust drybrush, then a light drybrush of kislev flesh: These look much better than mine. Mine are Baylor Brown and Zandri Dust.
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Mar 14, 2017 22:05
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Airbrush goons! I'm starting to experiment with varnishing and have questions. Traditionally I've done one coat of Krylon gloss then two coats of Dullcote and I've been happy with results (after some touch ups with brush on vajello) What would be the airbrush equivalents if they exist? I have vajello gloss and matte in dropper bottles. The gloss seems alright, the matte seems VERY different than the dullcote though. I'm mainly looking for a replacement here since I know it's lacquer (I think???) vs acrylic. I'm wondering if it provides more protection for that reason as well? I've read that using Futur for gloss works well too? I have some and can try it. Also, can anyone tell me what the difference between the vajello polyurethane varnish and acrylic is? (And if I should definitely not be using one or the other) I was thinking of trying their satin varnish. Thanks for helping me not ruin all my paint jobs!
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Mar 15, 2017 07:45
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I use art store liquitex varnish through an airbrush and get good results. Just use a larger gauge needle and clean out the airbrush reeeeally well as soon as you are done. If you are inclined get a cheap ultrasonic cleaner to make it easy. A coat of gloss followed by a coat of matte makes your minis pretty much bulletproof. Note that the matte tends to gum up the nozzle more than gloss due to the suspended particulates that make it matte. good luck!
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Mar 15, 2017 11:44
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WIP for Adepticon - a bit of fine tuning and the bases left to go. As usual, I'm going down to the wire on this... Hurr hurr hurr 
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Mar 15, 2017 15:28
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berzerkmonkey posted:WIP for Adepticon - a bit of fine tuning and the bases left to go. As usual, I'm going down to the wire on this... This is the good poo poo right here. How are you basing them? I've got a box of old Goliaths that I'm figuring will go on Goblin Green bases.
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Mar 15, 2017 16:20
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SRM posted:This is the good poo poo right here. How are you basing them? I've got a box of old Goliaths that I'm figuring will go on Goblin Green bases. Thanks - I was going to go crazy with basing, but after looking at things realistically, I'm going with the same Zone Mortalis type bases I did with my Escher. 
berzerkmonkey fucked around with this message at 18:30 on Mar 15, 2017 |
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Mar 15, 2017 16:35
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berzerkmonkey posted:WIP for Adepticon - a bit of fine tuning and the bases left to go. As usual, I'm going down to the wire on this... These are great, everything Necromunda is great, and everything Necromunda needs hazard stripes bases! berzerkmonkey posted:I was going to go crazy with basing, but after looking at things realistically, I'm going with the same Zone Mortalis type bases I did with my Escher. And I need to paint my own Escher now.... WITH HAZARD STRIPES BASES
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Mar 15, 2017 16:56
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Ok so I did a test run on the BB Orcs following the painting instructions in the game. Overall the line highlighting worked well for a fast turnaround but I think I still prefer spending some time and blending as it looks much better in pictures. I did discover something else though: I typically (heavily) gloss varnish all my minis and I have 30 year old paint jobs that still look vibrant as a consequence, however the gloss varnish isn't very natural and makes highlighted blacks look like poo poo. The mini pictured was glossed over and then I applied a wash of Lahmian Medium over the varnish coat. This matted the varnish and aside from a little dulling of the colors (which I plan on compensating for by highlighting up to an even lighter color) I have a feeling this will be one of the most durable treatments I have applied to my minis and I no longer need to worry about matte varnish caking on the miniatures weirdly.
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Mar 15, 2017 17:17
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mentos posted:Ok so I did a test run on the BB Orcs following the painting instructions in the game. Overall the line highlighting worked well for a fast turnaround but I think I still prefer spending some time and blending as it looks much better in pictures. I did discover something else though: I typically (heavily) gloss varnish all my minis and I have 30 year old paint jobs that still look vibrant as a consequence, however the gloss varnish isn't very natural and makes highlighted blacks look like poo poo. The mini pictured was glossed over and then I applied a wash of Lahmian Medium over the varnish coat. This matted the varnish and aside from a little dulling of the colors (which I plan on compensating for by highlighting up to an even lighter color) I have a feeling this will be one of the most durable treatments I have applied to my minis and I no longer need to worry about matte varnish caking on the miniatures weirdly. This is a cool idea, I will give this a try when I next varnish a mini.
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Mar 15, 2017 17:27
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Lahmian medium is great and matte but far too expensive to be used just for that! Check out Daler Rowney matt varnish - a lot of shaking and stirring but it brushes on smoothly and dries very matte.
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Mar 15, 2017 17:29
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ineptmule posted:This is a cool idea, I will give this a try when I next varnish a mini. Tried looking that up. Is that just GW brand Matte Medium or is it something different?
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Mar 15, 2017 17:31
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^^^^^^ yep it is, made from the tears of grognardsijyt posted:Lahmian medium is great and matte but far too expensive to be used just for that! Check out Daler Rowney matt varnish - a lot of shaking and stirring but it brushes on smoothly and dries very matte. keep in mind I'm the type of guy who buys "Pink Horror" and "Pallid Whych Flesh" just because GW tells me to...
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Mar 15, 2017 17:33
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Does anybody have any good guides regarding how to paint camouflage and how to weather vehicles?
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Mar 15, 2017 17:37
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Phi230 posted:Does anybody have any good guides regarding how to paint camouflage and how to weather vehicles? http://www.scalemodelguide.com/painting-weathering/weathering/apply-realistic-paint-chips-salt/ Salt Chipping is a technique any self respecting artist looking to weather a vehicle should learn if they have an airbrush, IMO. You might be able to pull it off without an airbrush by painting the rust layer, adding salt, then spray primering over the salt and paint as normal.
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Mar 15, 2017 17:49
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Phi230 posted:Does anybody have any good guides regarding how to paint camouflage and how to weather vehicles? Weathering vehicles is a whole rabbit hole of techniques. This video and the creator's channel are fantastic: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pMncvt0BpbI As for camouflage - Just paint the camouflage like the dudes did it in real life. It's really easy. Camouflage was usually applied in the field by the crew, and so the patterns are always really straightforward. Say you wanna do the iconic German "ambush" camo:  It might look a bit overwhelming at first, but if you break it down into discrete steps, you'll find that it's extremely simple. Light tan base color, followed by a few thick wavy brown and green streaks going vertically up the length of the vehicle. Finish it off with light tan dots to the green and brown areas, and brown dots to the light tan areas. Geisladisk fucked around with this message at 17:58 on Mar 15, 2017 |
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Mar 15, 2017 17:53
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Neurolimal posted:http://www.scalemodelguide.com/painting-weathering/weathering/apply-realistic-paint-chips-salt/ I have a bunch of vallejo effects and rust is one. Can i apply that over paint or is that the base i should use for the salt
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Mar 15, 2017 18:07
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Phi230 posted:I have a bunch of vallejo effects and rust is one. Can i apply that over paint or is that the base i should use for the salt Over the paint. You want the layer covered by the salt to look like the metal or primer underneath. So you can add that or something like tamiya weathering pigments afterwards inside the sections previously covered by the salt. I suggest a small sponge on a stick.
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Mar 15, 2017 18:12
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Thanks everyone but one last question. I found a line of paints that makes precise colors for historicals. Theyre all enamels. So does the rule of thumb of acrylics over enamels still stand or should i find the same color in acrylic Also what is a good steel color to do edge drybrushing for basic weathering Phi230 fucked around with this message at 18:27 on Mar 15, 2017 |
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Mar 15, 2017 18:21
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Phi230 posted:Thanks everyone but one last question. Are you painting historicals? If not, you should be able to find equivalents in acrylic - Vallejo makes a wide range of military model colors. Personally, I'm for acrylics 110% as you don't have to worry about the pain in the rear end cleanup with enamels. That being said. enamels have their place, especially with techniques like pin washes and weather staining. That's some pretty advanced stuff though - not especially difficult, just not beginner level.
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Mar 15, 2017 18:28
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Yeah I wanna get into Napoleonics and they have all specific colors. But the colors I have already are just Russian Armor Green and Russian Air Force Su-25 Underside Blue as they call it. Very specific colors thatre hard to find equivalents of
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Mar 15, 2017 18:30
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Find acrylic equivalents. If anyone's gonna give you poo poo about not using the precise exact shade of dress coat blue or brass buttons then they're not worth playing.
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Mar 15, 2017 18:33
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Phi230 posted:Yeah I wanna get into Napoleonics and they have all specific colors. Yeah, historicals like that are tough, because you have maniacs judging you for not painting the vest buttons in the correct shade of parade brass. You may want to ask paint specific questions in the Historicals Thread. If anyone knows where to get British Army Red, circa 1805 on Thursday, they will be the guys.
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Mar 15, 2017 18:35
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To answer the question: still stands; enamel paint will eat acrylic paint when you try to brush it on. If you really cant find the colors you want then I'd suggest a strong varnish before applying the enamels. The only time you can really get away with enamel over acrylic is either 1. Pin washing (because you're not pushing the enamel paint against the acrylic) and 2. Very light airbryshing (too much will dissolve the base acrylic).
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Mar 15, 2017 18:47
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These were the tanks I did for my Oath last month.   The recipe was actually pretty simple: airbrush the entire thing Vallejo US Dark Green. Then I gave it a zenithal highlight with a mix of 3-4 parts US Dark Green to 1 part Vallejo Medium Grey. You could use Vallejo Russian Uniform, but I don't think it's quite light enough. The wear effects were then done with Vallejo Dark Gray applied by stippling with a small drybrush. Some people use a sponge for this, but I find I have better control with a brush - just make sure it's a small one. I then pin-washed the thing with Tamiya Panel Wash (black). The .50, coax, and hull-mounted MG were coated in Vallejo Gloss black and dry-brushed with Ral Partha Steel (this particular bottle of paint is goddamned near 30 years old, but basically any dark gray metallic color will work here). The tracks were painted Vallejo Gloss Black, then dry-brushed with Citadel Boltgun Metal. Depending on the environment you want to model, you might want to experiment here with using texture paints (especially if you're doing muddy Normandy, or something like snow/slush effects). For the mud spattering effect, I thinned some Vallejo Flat Earth, dipped brush in, held it a half inch or so from the tank, and shot it with air from my airbrush. I then heavily applied some dry pigments (I forget whether they are Vallejo or MIG) to the tracks, and fixed them with mineral spirits. The final step was the grime streaks, which were done with the Tamiya line oils (they look like little mascara bottles), swiped with a small brush loaded with mineral spirits to fade/thin to the desired color/weight.    This one was done more or less the same way, only the base coat was Vallejo US Field Drab, followed by a heavy stippling with Vallejo German Camo Beige, followed by a light edge dry-brushing of ... Vallejo Iraqi Sand I think? Same edge stippling with Vallejo Dark Gray for the paint chipping effect. For this one, the dust weathering dry pigment was MIG Dry Mud, again fixed with mineral spirits. FWIW, until last month I had painted exactly one (1) historical vehicle. I was basically experimenting with a bunch of new materials and techniques (I had never really done much with oil-based paints before), but I discovered that it was surprisingly easy to achieve the effects I wanted. There are a ton of YouTube tutorials out there (there's a great one for Shermans that's done by a German dude that I drew from heavily). The most important thing is to just be willing to experiment and try things outside of your comfort zone.
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Mar 15, 2017 21:55
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Finally got the confidence to paint my Ethereal!   I'm surprised how well it goes with the theme. It took me an hour just to decide on colors before I even touched the paint. I nailed the gem in his face on the first go, and I let out an audible "Hell yeah!" When something goes as planned on the first try, it really boosts the confidence!  Edit: Seeing it in an image is showing the spots I was heave handed on, namely the glow on the staff. I really gotta learn the wet method of doing the glow effect. Also, this dude is great! Thanks for sharing. If you're new to painting, watch this guys stuff. 
Kabuki Shipoopi fucked around with this message at 05:18 on Mar 16, 2017 |
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Mar 16, 2017 03:14
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Whoops.
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Mar 16, 2017 05:17
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Kabuki Shipoopi posted:Also, this dude is great! Thanks for sharing. If you're new to painting, watch this guys stuff. One very minor thing that annoys me about him is that he's Dunning-Krugering so loving hard. This is literally the most skilled painter I've ever seen work, but he seems to think that he's sloppy and mediocre. It's pretty intimidating for someone who really is sloppy and mediocre.  "Okay... if you want to make great looking, realistic model? Go learn from some other painter, yes? I want to paint models fast, to have fun with. If you want great looking, learn from someone else <nervous laughter>" *proceeds to loving freehand pretty much photorealistic paint chipping and rust streaks in under five minutes while talking and gesticulating to audience*
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Mar 16, 2017 08:32
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Geisladisk posted:One very minor thing that annoys me about him is that he's Dunning-Krugering so loving hard. This is literally the most skilled painter I've ever seen work, but he seems to think that he's sloppy and mediocre. It's pretty intimidating for someone who really is sloppy and mediocre. You're describing the opposite of Dunning-Kruger.
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Mar 16, 2017 09:00
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Gravitas Shortfall posted:You're describing the opposite of Dunning-Kruger. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dunning%E2%80%93Kruger_effect quote:Their research also suggests corollaries: high-ability individuals may underestimate their relative competence and may erroneously assume that tasks which are easy for them are also easy for others Skilled people consistently underestimating their own proficiency is also a part of DK. Anyway, let's not derail the thread. This guy is really loving good and severely underestimates how good he is, is what I'm sayin'.
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Mar 16, 2017 09:05
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I wish I had his talent hes great
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Mar 16, 2017 13:12
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Yeah, I think what you're actually describing there is called "humility." It's one of those things that never seem to catch on in the US, like basic human decency or the Metric System. Welp, gotta go, real busy today. <spends remainder of day watching every tutorial on Mig's channel while putting incredible effort into avoiding work>
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Mar 16, 2017 14:46
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Dr. Gargunza posted:Yeah, I think what you're actually describing there is called "humility." It's one of those things that never seem to catch on in the US, like basic human decency or the Metric System. Lol Mig's channel is pretty rad. Those oil brushes look interesting, but i'm not at all brave enough to try them.
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Mar 16, 2017 15:28
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