|
So I scratched the poo poo out of the side of my car while shoveling it out of a snow bank. I feel like a huge dumbass cause it looks like I really did some damage. There's a few pretty fuckin long scratches on the door. They don't seem too deep (definitely not down to the metal) but the scratches would be noticeable as soon as you got closer than a few feet. What's everything I can try to reduce how apparent they are short of sanding and repainting? Is it something a dealership could possibly treat? I'm super pissed because I've managed to keep it pretty blemish free for awhile and now I've royally hosed it very quickly.
|
#
?
Mar 16, 2017 18:31
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 14, 2024 21:25 |
|
|
Immolat1on posted:So I scratched the poo poo out of the side of my car while shoveling it out of a snow bank. I feel like a huge dumbass cause it looks like I really did some damage. There's a few pretty fuckin long scratches on the door. They don't seem too deep (definitely not down to the metal) but the scratches would be noticeable as soon as you got closer than a few feet. What's everything I can try to reduce how apparent they are short of sanding and repainting? Is it something a dealership could possibly treat? Go to the parts store and get some sort of "scratch remover". There should be several brands, turtle wax, meguiars, mothers etc. Check reviews first, but most of those products should work at buffing out the scratches. Mind you, it depends on how bad they are.
|
|
#
?
Mar 16, 2017 20:05
|
|
|
Edit: nm
blk fucked around with this message at 23:44 on Mar 16, 2017 |
|
#
?
Mar 16, 2017 23:41
|
|
|
Immolat1on posted:So I scratched the poo poo out of the side of my car while shoveling it out of a snow bank. Polishing compound. Follow the directions & go easy & light. Then finish with a little carnauba wax. If the scratches aren't too deep, they should virtually disappear.
|
|
#
?
Mar 17, 2017 01:45
|
|
|
Sparkplug chat is loving fascinating. I love this subforum. Totalnewbie: so on my oldass 1988 Jeep I6 4.0 I run either Autolites or Champions at .035 because endless greybeards online say the cheapo plugs run the best/are more similar to OEM tech when the engine was designed. Is that stupid? Because I've always felt it might be. Champions run just fine and are cheap so whatever; I go with it... are the old-timers correct about the cheap plugs being correct for the old engine, or are they accidentally correct because there's only so much performance you can pull out of a 200,000+ mile 4.0 and/or more expensive plugs would be wasted? Perhaps both are correct! 
|
|
#
?
Mar 17, 2017 04:34
|
|
|
Champion plugs aren't suitable for lawnmower engines, but that engine also doesn't have the plug-eating waste-spark ignition system that necessitates better plugs.
|
|
#
?
Mar 17, 2017 05:15
|
|
|
Nah, there's some truth to that. Combustion can be a tricky thing but basically you want peak combustion pressure to be at a certain point and, frankly, the engine was developed with the low ignitability plugs. The thing about waste spark is that you have opposite polarity on two plugs. So one plug is getting hit by protons on the center electrode and the next is getting hit by protons on the ground. Protons are a lot more massive than electrons...
|
|
#
?
Mar 17, 2017 05:23
|
|
|
totalnewbie posted:Nah, there's some truth to that. Combustion can be a tricky thing but basically you want peak combustion pressure to be at a certain point and, frankly, the engine was developed with the low ignitability plugs. Would these be the proper style of plugs for a 302?
|
|
#
?
Mar 17, 2017 05:25
|
|
|
No idea! I'm an engineer, not a mechanic. 
|
|
#
?
Mar 17, 2017 05:25
|
|
|
I run Champions in the WJ because they're OE and Jeep wisdom seems to be very very scared of anything electrical that isn't Mopar. Of course, given how well it ran with a plug five heat ranges too hot and gapped twenty thou too wide (thanks, PO shop!) I think it probably just needs something that isn't a lovely copper / nickel plug.
|
|
#
?
Mar 17, 2017 06:59
|
|
|
totalnewbie posted:The thing about waste spark is that you have opposite polarity on two plugs. So one plug is getting hit by protons on the center electrode and the next is getting hit by protons on the ground. Protons are a lot more massive than electrons... Opposite polarity, sure, but a positive charge doesn't mean a concentration of protons, just a deficit of electrons. Protons don't just come loose from a nucleus (that's called nuclear fission), and there's no way the entire positve ion is gonna move through a wire. Both grounds are at the same voltage as the battery negative; the wasted spark has a "slight" positive charge of about 2-3 kV, compared to the live plug's negative 8 to 12 kV. The resistance in cylinder on the exhaust stroke is lower (since the air in the gap the spark has to jump is less dense), so it takes a lot less voltage to spark, and most of the power still flows through the live cylinder. Having current flow different directions might have small effects, but you certainly aren't bombarding it with positive ions of any kind, and the fact the current is so much lower completely negates it. /sperg It adds an amount of wear that was negligible at the time those systems were common; emissions regs are tighter these days, so every bit of spark plug life helps.
|
|
#
?
Mar 17, 2017 07:05
|
|
|
totalnewbie posted:tl;dr: Bosch +4 GEs get in the way of the flame kernel and gently caress up the ignition timing. GM's Ecotecs in particular seem to love to ping if you look at them funny, so the +4 explains why they seem like they run so poorly. Even running E15 (not E85) in my car vs regular unleaded (which has up to E10) makes a noticeable, repeatable increase in my MPG - i'm guessing because of that 1 extra point of octane in E15 (88 vs 87), but I don't know the  behind it. I do like the fact that E15 is cheaper, but I know it'll degrade some fuel system components faster. One of these days I may try running midgrade for a week.The thimble vs planar makes sense when it comes to what I noticed with Hondas. For sensors I generally try to go factory part number if it's not $rape$ (I'm looking at you, Nissan MAF sensors), or track down the actual OEM. I generally prefer OE/OEM parts anyway, so long as they're not incredibly expensive vs aftermarket. Just been burned too many times by going aftermarket/generic on sensors. I probably have a ton of carbon build-up in my engine as well, as the upshift light on the dash encourages you to lug the ever living poo poo out of the engine.
|
|
#
?
Mar 17, 2017 08:52
|
|
|
totalnewbie posted:The thing about waste spark is that you have opposite polarity on two plugs. So one plug is getting hit by protons on the center electrode and the next is getting hit by protons on the ground. Protons are a lot more massive than electrons... That's not how it works, not at all. Waste spark just means that spark plugs are triggered at the same position, whether or not the piston is on the compression stroke or exhaust. Sending protons flying requires a particle accelerator, you won't liberate them with a few thousand volts across a spark plug gap.
|
|
#
?
Mar 17, 2017 13:13
|
|
|
Protons come from ionization of hydrogen gas and/or electrolysis of water. Waste spark systems cause extremely uneven wear on the spark plugs (one on the CE, the other on the GE) and this is the reason.
totalnewbie fucked around with this message at 14:36 on Mar 17, 2017 |
|
#
?
Mar 17, 2017 13:38
|
|
|
LingcodKilla posted:Would these be the proper style of plugs for a 302? Just get Motorcraft plugs/wires whatever from the cheapest source you can fine (Amazon, advance auto with online coupons, whatever) and you will be fine
|
|
#
?
Mar 17, 2017 17:41
|
|
|
totalnewbie posted:Protons come from ionization of hydrogen gas and/or electrolysis of water. Waste spark systems cause extremely uneven wear on the spark plugs (one on the CE, the other on the GE) and this is the reason. Are you suggesting the spark plug's voltage differential creates an ionization of hydrogen gas and/or electrolysis of water? Ignition spark is an application of breakdown voltage and has no free-moving protons.
|
|
#
?
Mar 17, 2017 18:31
|
|
|
everdave posted:Just get Motorcraft plugs/wires whatever from the cheapest source you can fine (Amazon, advance auto with online coupons, whatever) and you will be fine Thanks. I like cheap. Also gently caress pulling a windshield wiper motor on a 87 f150. The link between the motor and the assembly siezed up something horrible and wont crack. I'm watching videos and yup it's universally terrible placement and metallurgy.
|
|
#
?
Mar 17, 2017 18:32
|
|
|
Adiabatic posted:Are you suggesting the spark plug's voltage differential creates an ionization of hydrogen gas and/or electrolysis of water? The spark itself is the ionization of hydrogen (and other) gasses. This is the actual "breakdown" of "breakdown voltage".
|
|
#
?
Mar 17, 2017 18:37
|
|
|
Adiabatic posted:Are you suggesting the spark plug's voltage differential creates an ionization of hydrogen gas and/or electrolysis of water? The stuff between the electrodes gets ionized and the resulting plasma has a way of ripping all the molecules within it to shreds. So if there's anything containing hydrogen in the immediate vicinity of the spark, it's going to result in some free protons.
|
|
#
?
Mar 17, 2017 18:38
|
|
|
totalnewbie posted:The spark itself is the ionization of hydrogen (and other) gasses. This is the actual "breakdown" of "breakdown voltage". Deteriorata posted:The stuff between the electrodes gets ionized and the resulting plasma has a way of ripping all the molecules within it to shreds. So if there's anything containing hydrogen in the immediate vicinity of the spark, it's going to result in some free protons.  I would have never thought of creating free protons from electrical ionization with hydrogen but it's sitting right there in front of my face now. Is there truly a non-trivial amount of free hydrogen, as a percentage of combustion gases, to make it a practical issue? e: I suppose breakdowns of hydrocarbons leftover from the combustion process?
|
|
#
?
Mar 17, 2017 18:46
|
|
|
totalnewbie posted:Protons come from ionization of hydrogen gas and/or electrolysis of water. Waste spark systems cause extremely uneven wear on the spark plugs (one on the CE, the other on the GE) and this is the reason. Not saying you're wrong, but how big of a decrease in lifespan are we talking about here? Anecdotally my car (Zetec powered first generation Focus) uses a wasted spark ignition system and I usually change my plugs (NGK iridium) at 50-60k and they appear to be completely fine when they come back out.
|
|
#
?
Mar 17, 2017 18:49
|
|
|
Adiabatic posted:
This genuinely made me laugh (not in a mocking way, mind you). I'm glad you didn't try to argue the point because I didn't know where to go after "well there's a spark so..." Consider the number of firing events and the high heat generated and it adds up. Geoj posted:Not saying you're wrong, but how big of a decrease in lifespan are we talking about here? Mm, well, not as much, really. Because the waste spark event is right after exhaust stroke, cylinder pressure and therefore sparking voltage is low. Honestly you could probably just swap the plugs between the + and - cylinders and re-use them for another 50k miles. totalnewbie fucked around with this message at 19:01 on Mar 17, 2017 |
|
#
?
Mar 17, 2017 18:56
|
|
|
Some days you're the teacher, some days you're the student 
|
|
#
?
Mar 17, 2017 19:09
|
|
|
It did take me a several panic-filled seconds to remember where free protons came from. Also quite a bit of relief when Deteriorata chimed in because I'm certainly not immune to being wrong.
|
|
#
?
Mar 17, 2017 19:17
|
|
|
totalnewbie posted:Honestly you could probably just swap the plugs between the + and - cylinders and re-use them for another 50k miles. Is 100k out of a set of precious metal plugs realistic or is that moving into pushing the envelope territory? Granted the manufacturer suggested change interval of 30k miles is likely because the car was designed in the late 90s and I'm sure plug technology has improved in the nearly 20 years since (plus I'm pretty sure the OEM plugs were copper) but that seems like a lot of miles... Geoj fucked around with this message at 19:22 on Mar 17, 2017 |
|
#
?
Mar 17, 2017 19:20
|
|
|
totalnewbie posted:It did take me a several panic-filled seconds to remember where free protons came from. Also quite a bit of relief when Deteriorata chimed in because I'm certainly not immune to being wrong. Well, if you don't have any hydrogen-containing substances in the vicinity of the spark, you're not going to initiate any combustion.  I will be an idiot plenty of times in the future, so it's nice being on the other side occasionally.
|
|
#
?
Mar 17, 2017 19:27
|
|
|
Geoj posted:Is 100k out of a set of precious metal plugs realistic or is that moving into pushing the envelope territory? Generally durability goes like this: Nickel: 30k Platinum: 60k Iridium: 100k Caveat: turbocharging, especially the high pressures in modern engines, have driven down durability. For example, the current GM 2.0L turbo engine (LTG) uses iridium/platinum but has a 60k change interval. I believe GM has actually moved the change interval to 60k for ALL new turbo engines now. Also, certain designs (e.g. DFE) have worse durability. Having a small electrode on the ground electrode means gap growth is faster. But the upside is a big ignitability gain. It's all a game of tradeoffs.
|
|
#
?
Mar 17, 2017 19:40
|
|
|
LingcodKilla posted:Would these be the proper style of plugs for a 302? What does your owner's manual tell you? Edit: There have been a lot of 302s over the years, and it seems likely that one of the updates changed the plug requirements at some point. Edit2: On an 87, it probably just wants old school copper. Godholio fucked around with this message at 20:46 on Mar 17, 2017 |
|
#
?
Mar 17, 2017 20:43
|
|
|
Yeah just curious I figured there might be some sort of new opinion that may over ride a 30 year manual. Tune-up and oil change is my next project. Kinda fun getting back under a hood. Haven't tinkered with a car since 98 and that was with my 72 super beetle.
|
|
#
?
Mar 17, 2017 21:13
|
|
|
LingcodKilla posted:Yeah just curious I figured there might be some sort of new opinion that may over ride a 30 year manual. Just use Motorcraft plugs/wires/filters/tune up items. Don't bother with any fancy plugs or anything. I put anti sieze on plugs (even though someone elsewhere said not to) and I use dielectric grease on the plug wires. Use whatever weight oil it calls for. Might want to do a fuel filter while you are at it.
|
|
#
?
Mar 17, 2017 21:28
|
|
|
everdave posted:Just use Motorcraft plugs/wires/filters/tune up items. Don't bother with any fancy plugs or anything. I put anti sieze on plugs (even though someone elsewhere said not to) and I use dielectric grease on the plug wires. Use whatever weight oil it calls for. Might want to do a fuel filter while you are at it. Yeah, I agree. It may tolerate a precious metal spark plug or it may not. If it does, the benefit is you won't have to change your plugs as often. If not then, well, you've wasted your money on a set of plugs you're probably not going to use. And I'm the guy who says don't put anti-seize on plugs (unless they're unplated). We can fight about it if you want :P Ultimately, it comes down to the fact that it's unnecessary and increases risk of problems. You can keep doing whatever you want, I'm not here to force you to change, but since we're giving out advice on the internet, I feel like I need to advise against it.
|
|
#
?
Mar 17, 2017 21:33
|
|
|
totalnewbie posted:Yeah, I agree. It may tolerate a precious metal spark plug or it may not. If it does, the benefit is you won't have to change your plugs as often. If not then, well, you've wasted your money on a set of plugs you're probably not going to use. No worries I am just used to what I have been told since the 80's, I don't doubt what you are saying
|
|
#
?
Mar 17, 2017 21:42
|
|
|
How old can your airbags be before they become unreliable? Obviously, you won't if they work unless you have a crash. I have a 1996 Camry and the airbag warning light comes on for correct amount of time when I start the car, but can I be sure they'll work when I need them to?
|
|
#
?
Mar 17, 2017 22:38
|
|
|
Mister Kingdom posted:How old can your airbags be before they become unreliable? Obviously, you won't if they work unless you have a crash. I have a 1996 Camry and the airbag warning light comes on for correct amount of time when I start the car, but can I be sure they'll work when I need them to? The only way to be sure is to crash into something and see what happens. Actually, no one is really sure what the expected lifetime of airbags is. Initially they thought about 10 years, but then they tested some that were ten years old and found they were fine. Then it was 15 years, same thing. Now it's 20 years. Who knows? If you're really worried about it, have them replaced. Or the cheaper option is to get a new car.
|
|
#
?
Mar 17, 2017 22:41
|
|
|
My girlfriend had an O2 sensor go out on a sensor heater fault code, and the shop is quoting a reasonable parts and labor for replacement, but then tacking on a substantial charge for "emissions system cleaning" listing "emission system cleaner" as a part. Is this a real thing? I don't know much about gasoline engine emissions control systems and am wondering if this just just them trying to charge $200 bucks for some weird stuff you spray in your gas tank or something. I work with industrial diesels (including some marine stuff with emissions controls) and have never heard of anything like this on my side of the fence except literally pulling and cleaning sensors if you find that some of them are too crudded up to work.
|
|
#
?
Mar 18, 2017 00:18
|
|
|
Could a 2015/2016 Honda CRV have enough room for an 84 inch long bed flat packed bed frame inside? I am trying to book a rental car for tomorrow and I don't have a car to measure. Is there a way to figure this out without physically measuring the car? I don't have access to it until tomorrow. Google just gives me a ton of overall car volume measurements but not like a windshield-to-windshield measure.
|
|
#
?
Mar 18, 2017 00:19
|
|
|
shovelbum posted:My girlfriend had an O2 sensor go out on a sensor heater fault code, and the shop is quoting a reasonable parts and labor for replacement, but then tacking on a substantial charge for "emissions system cleaning" listing "emission system cleaner" as a part. Is this a real thing? I don't know much about gasoline engine emissions control systems and am wondering if this just just them trying to charge $200 bucks for some weird stuff you spray in your gas tank or something. I work with industrial diesels (including some marine stuff with emissions controls) and have never heard of anything like this on my side of the fence except literally pulling and cleaning sensors if you find that some of them are too crudded up to work. Could have been something like Seafoam that gets injected through a vacuum line and helps remove carbon buildup.  if they charged $200 for that as a service though...
|
|
#
?
Mar 18, 2017 00:36
|
|
|
New windshield wiper motor installed but not working. My first instinct is a fuse. After that pinched/bad wiring. Any other ideas?
|
|
#
?
Mar 18, 2017 00:37
|
|
|
shovelbum posted:My girlfriend had an O2 sensor go out on a sensor heater fault code, and the shop is quoting a reasonable parts and labor for replacement, but then tacking on a substantial charge for "emissions system cleaning" listing "emission system cleaner" as a part. Is this a real thing? I don't know much about gasoline engine emissions control systems and am wondering if this just just them trying to charge $200 bucks for some weird stuff you spray in your gas tank or something. I work with industrial diesels (including some marine stuff with emissions controls) and have never heard of anything like this on my side of the fence except literally pulling and cleaning sensors if you find that some of them are too crudded up to work. Could be sticking a can of BG44 or the equivalent into the gas tank. Or using an expensive system that injects it into the engine (it's on youtube somewhere ) - I think it is by the same people but uses a different name. spog fucked around with this message at 00:40 on Mar 18, 2017 |
|
#
?
Mar 18, 2017 00:38
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 14, 2024 21:25 |
|
|
Thanks everyone for spark plug talk. My daily driver is a silver (Lunar List Metallic!) 04 Tacoma that I am the original owner of. It runs like a champ. I do regular maintenance on it and I changed the belts and water pump at 100k-ish miles. I don't believe that the spark plugs have ever been replaced and it has a 127k miles on it now. I guess I should go looking into changing those out then! Thanks again! Anything else I should look at?
|
|
|
#
?
Mar 18, 2017 00:42
|
|
