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Zuul the Cat posted:Mig's channel is pretty rad. Those oil brushes look interesting, but i'm not at all brave enough to try them.
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Mar 16, 2017 17:49
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Geisladisk posted:One very minor thing that annoys me about him is that he's Dunning-Krugering so loving hard. This is literally the most skilled painter I've ever seen work, but he seems to think that he's sloppy and mediocre. It's pretty intimidating for someone who really is sloppy and mediocre. Eh, it's just brush control and a visual library of chipping, you're exaggerating a bit. Also his comment on painting what you interpret and not being 100% accurate to life is probably the more important thing to take away from that video. Art is your interpretation of life.
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Mar 16, 2017 18:59
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I put together a tutorial on how I do my winter bases: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gWCsB1oZlik Shout out to Fyrbrand for his sweet snow recipe 
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Mar 16, 2017 19:23
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Can I take it back oldschool? When I remember reading about painting white in the past, I'd often heard to undercoat with (what was) space wolf grey and then work up to white - is this still the de facto standard? I have both blue and grey washes too.
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Mar 16, 2017 19:56
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Southern Heel posted:Can I take it back oldschool? When I remember reading about painting white in the past, I'd often heard to undercoat with (what was) space wolf grey and then work up to white - is this still the de facto standard? I have both blue and grey washes too. Yes, painting pure white isn't visually interesting at all. There's plenty of bluish or greyish offwhites, warm and cool, choose your direction and go.
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Mar 16, 2017 20:36
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Southern Heel posted:Can I take it back oldschool? When I remember reading about painting white in the past, I'd often heard to undercoat with (what was) space wolf grey and then work up to white - is this still the de facto standard? I have both blue and grey washes too. I paint my whites in Ulthuan Grey and highlight that with actual white. Ulthuan Grey is just a very, very light, almost-white grey. Even when I'm painting white models, I prime them white and use Ulthuan Grey on them sometimes.
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Mar 16, 2017 20:38
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SRM posted:I put together a tutorial on how I do my winter bases: Good tutorial, I may give it a go on my Dwarfs / Frostgrave stuff.
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Mar 17, 2017 00:32
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Any advice as to how I could brighten up this guy a bit? WIP but...  I did the skin with a 3:1 'Pale Flesh' and gray mix with a black wash over it. I'm going to hit the raised parts again with another layer, using even less gray mixed in but I'm afraid it's still going to look quite dark. I was also thinking I might try to free-hand a handprint in white over his face but I don't think it'll come out well with his teeth... And no idea how I want to approach his shield still. Original mini, I think the teeth on mine are damaged. Or at least got hosed up when I sprayed the base on 
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Mar 17, 2017 02:05
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I am making good progress on my Dropfleet PHR:
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Mar 17, 2017 02:27
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SRM posted:I put together a tutorial on how I do my winter bases: <3 Internet painting bros
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Mar 17, 2017 02:37
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Southern Heel posted:Can I take it back oldschool? When I remember reading about painting white in the past, I'd often heard to undercoat with (what was) space wolf grey and then work up to white - is this still the de facto standard? I have both blue and grey washes too. In real life, whites tend to take on colors around them. Blues work well for outdoor whites because the sky will tend to be reflected in them. If you want it to look like it's indoors, you'll want to go with more browns. Of course, if you're doing a diorama, and you have a strong color that's throughout the area, you might use that in your shadows, which will tie the model into the scene. For a normal color, let's say you'd go about 20% shadow, 60% midtone, 20% highlight. With a bright white, white is your midtone and highlight, leaving you with about 20% of the area that goes down into your blues. Black is the opposite, where black is your midtone and shadow.
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Mar 17, 2017 03:05
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JackMann posted:In real life, whites tend to take on colors around them. Blues work well for outdoor whites because the sky will tend to be reflected in them. If you want it to look like it's indoors, you'll want to go with more browns. Of course, if you're doing a diorama, and you have a strong color that's throughout the area, you might use that in your shadows, which will tie the model into the scene. Much obliged - I've gone with a super pale blue/grey as undercoat, then a 50/50 mix with white, then pure white ontop. Up-close I think I may have buggered the blending, but otherwise the colours work. Very cool video, just started using one myself thanks to this: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=96mjmqWTPfM
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Mar 17, 2017 07:28
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How's this for a pose? I wanted my remaining two Dunecrawlers to be a little more dynamic.  
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Mar 17, 2017 15:13
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Not bad, maybe angle the gun a little more down so it looks like it's firing on the go perhaps.
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Mar 17, 2017 16:04
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SteelMentor posted:Not bad, maybe angle the gun a little more down so it looks like it's firing on the go perhaps. Turns out I had the Chasis facing the wrong direction. Switched it to the right way:  
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Mar 17, 2017 16:08
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I like it! That pose is gonna look sweet once there's paint on it. (The body's magnetized, I take it?)
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Mar 17, 2017 16:13
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Dr. Gargunza posted:I like it! That pose is gonna look sweet once there's paint on it. (The body's magnetized, I take it?) Nope! I just don't glue it until I paint it so i can reach all the parts I need to reach. I've been doing that for all my AdMech stuff, even the infantry. Hopefully i'll be able to paint it all tonight so I can field it Sunday against my friends Necrons.
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Mar 17, 2017 16:31
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I like when people do walkers with only 3 legs touching the ground. Like it's picking around the terrain precisely. I want to do one of those spider walker things in the necron army in a kind of crouched down, kitty butt-wiggle, pounce pose. Maybe with the front two legs up? I only have a very small tau army that I have to focus on first though. I must say, the poses are my favorite part about army building.
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Mar 17, 2017 16:59
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Kabuki Shipoopi posted:I like when people do walkers with only 3 legs touching the ground. Like it's picking around the terrain precisely. The two front legs have posable 'claw' joints so you can lift them and/or pose them around terrain. The four rear legs, though, only have hip joints that let them be turned side-to-side. It's not impossible to do but you'd likely end up doing a bit of cutting and reposing. Incidentally, I didn't glue those claw joints in so I can still fold the front claws up and down depending on what I need. With Move Through Cover my Stalkers typically end up perched in 'interesting' spots on the map, like clinging halfway up to a wall to get a good angle on the thermal projector.
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Mar 17, 2017 19:13
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In that case I think the lifted claw should be higher/more dramatic.
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Mar 17, 2017 19:19
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I was going for 90's GW Red, but ended up alot less vibrant - what did I do wrong? Started with Vallejo Heavy Red -> Blood Red -> Blazing Orange, then went back with Heavy Red + a dark brown into the crevices. Pretty much nothing else on the mini is finished, however.
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Mar 17, 2017 21:50
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Nnngh a hard drive failure and Ive lost all of the miniature mentor videos that have ever been released. I can resubscribe (when money starts growing on trees) but there's a few they had to take down because Games Workshop got uppity. God damnit
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Mar 17, 2017 22:25
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Lethemonster posted:Nnngh a hard drive failure and Ive lost all of the miniature mentor videos that have ever been released. I can resubscribe (when money starts growing on trees) but there's a few they had to take down because Games Workshop got uppity. Give this a shot: https://www.piriform.com/recuva I've done some independent IT work in the past, and that software has been able to get back the majority, if not all the important files that customers have accidentally lost. Of course it depends upon what the hd failure is, but it's free software that isn't loaded with all kinds of bullshit malware that actually works.
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Mar 17, 2017 23:08
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Lethemonster posted:Nnngh a hard drive failure and Ive lost all of the miniature mentor videos that have ever been released. I can resubscribe (when money starts growing on trees) but there's a few they had to take down because Games Workshop got uppity. Also, wrap your HDD in a thick freezer ziplock and cool it down first. It can often help with recovery
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Mar 18, 2017 00:02
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Southern Heel posted:I was going for 90's GW Red, but ended up alot less vibrant - what did I do wrong? What color did you base over? When I got the brighter reds on my retro Ultras and such, I did it over a white undercoat with Mephiston Red and worked into oranges. I think I even shaded them with an orange wash. That still looks lovely, but not 90s GW red.
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Mar 18, 2017 00:13
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Stiction hasn't been an issue with hard drives in well over 10 years and the freezer method could very well do more harm than good. If recuva doesn't retrieve literally any data, then you might as well give the freezer trick a shot because it's probably completely dead, and not worth sending the drive to a data recovery firm, unless you have money to burn on recovering spaceman painting videos.
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Mar 18, 2017 00:14
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SRM posted:What color did you base over? When I got the brighter reds on my retro Ultras and such, I did it over a white undercoat with Mephiston Red and worked into oranges. I think I even shaded them with an orange wash. That still looks lovely, but not 90s GW red. Over grey primer - checking out Mephiston Red it looks alot like Vallejo Heavy Red so I guess it's just a case of the undercoat! I guess also I should have focused on going up in tone, rather than both light and dark. Thanks!
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Mar 18, 2017 08:53
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Kabuki Shipoopi posted:Give this a shot: w00tmonger posted:Also, wrap your HDD in a thick freezer ziplock and cool it down first. It can often help with recovery Thanks for the suggestion folks. I will give these a go while slobbering paint on some orcs.
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Mar 18, 2017 10:33
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Southern Heel posted:I was going for 90's GW Red, but ended up alot less vibrant - what did I do wrong? For that classic Mike McVey GW bright red/2e Blood Angels finish, you should start with a white undercoat and work up from a Blood Red equivalent through a Blazing Orange equivalent, with your brightest highlights being Fiery Orange. Shade with a 2:1:1 red:dark brown:violet wash and you should be good to go.
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Mar 18, 2017 12:41
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Of course, white straight to blood red makes alot more sense than grey-> darker red -> blood red transition. Thank you, I will try that and let you know the outcome shortly. As a more general question, how do you guys handle bulk painting logistically? I've just bought a rather large starter set and am looking to paint 8-16 dudes at a time: I gather a fresh wet palette and a fairly large brush for basecoating and washing?
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Mar 18, 2017 13:02
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If your dudes all share a common color that takes up a majority of the model, get a cheap airbrush and compressor combo for basecoating everything.
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Mar 18, 2017 14:05
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Silhouette posted:If your dudes all share a common color that takes up a majority of the model, get a cheap airbrush and compressor combo for basecoating everything. Cheap being the operative word, assuming you're willing to clean it and if you break the needle you replace the whole drat unit. If you're basecoating, detail doesn't matter, so you can have it be spattery or whatever, doesn't matter a bit. The cheapest airbrush will give you a better single color basecoat than the best brush in my experience.
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Mar 18, 2017 16:36
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signalnoise posted:and if you break the needle you replace the whole drat unit.
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Mar 18, 2017 16:54
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 My Stormcast dudes are getting close to done. Basically just need to finish the hair, skin, and scrolls, and then paint their shield arms.
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Mar 18, 2017 17:34
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Pierzak posted:Still cheaper than any but the simplest of parts for a decent airbrush. Absolutely. Just don't be like me and try to get the needle out by pushing the tip instead of grabbing pliers and pulling from the back end.  Not my smartest dayEdit: I'm still looking over what I need to get a painting workshop done. What's the easiest paint to work with, in your opinion? Like, for absolute newbies? Something pre-thinned maybe? Any suggestions for paint that does not need to be additionally thinned, but has good coverage. Doesn't need a huge selection, just stuff for basics. signalnoise fucked around with this message at 18:11 on Mar 18, 2017 |
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Mar 18, 2017 18:04
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signalnoise posted:Absolutely. Just don't be like me and try to get the needle out by pushing the tip instead of grabbing pliers and pulling from the back end. It still needs to be thinned, but Tamiya is an incredibly generous paint for airbrushing, and is one of the cleanest spraying acrylics available. Also very cheap thinner. Vallejo sells a line of airbrush paints; I haven't tried them yet, but a lot of people swear by Vallejo in general so they're worth a look. Also you probably know this, but never thin paint you intend to airbrush with water; that works fine with hand painting because its easier to control how much paint you apply to the figure, but with airbrushing its possible to very easily pool paint due to water making it harder to build paint up in a wet area.
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Mar 18, 2017 18:50
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Neurolimal posted:It still needs to be thinned, but Tamiya is an incredibly generous paint for airbrushing, and is one of the cleanest spraying acrylics available. Also very cheap thinner. Well the idea is to supply paint, brushes, and minis to absolute newbies. I'm trying to contact Reaper about it but they're hard to get a hold of, so I'm looking into options for just supplying the poo poo internally. Given that these are newbies, I was thinking I could buy some paint, thin it CORRECTLY myself, and put it into lil 5ml droppers, and distribute.
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Mar 18, 2017 18:54
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Is there a Model Air/Game Air equivalent to GW's Averland Sunset? I'm in need of an airbrush paint in that particular color, and I'm not exactly thrilled with the idea of having an airbrush paint in a flip-top bottle that I'll then have to transfer into a dropper bottle.
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Mar 18, 2017 19:09
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Before I start batch painting, left awuuu or right awuuuu? awwuu
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Mar 18, 2017 20:56
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Slimnoid posted:Is there a Model Air/Game Air equivalent to GW's Averland Sunset? I'm in need of an airbrush paint in that particular color, and I'm not exactly thrilled with the idea of having an airbrush paint in a flip-top bottle that I'll then have to transfer into a dropper bottle. I think the two you might have luck with are 71.033 Yellow Ochre or 72.707 Gold Yellow.
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Mar 18, 2017 21:32
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