|
ijyt posted:I think the two you might have luck with are 71.033 Yellow Ochre or 72.707 Gold Yellow. I'll give Yellow Ochre a try. I've got Gold Yellow and it's way too bright a yellow to be a match.
|
#
?
Mar 18, 2017 21:49
|
|
|
|
| # ? Jun 2, 2024 09:21 |
|
|
Slimnoid posted:I'll give Yellow Ochre a try. I've got Gold Yellow and it's way too bright a yellow to be a match. Compare it to the normal VMC version too, I've found some VMA stuff can be lighter - though I think yellow ochre might be a bit more muted than Averland.
|
|
#
?
Mar 18, 2017 22:05
|
|
|
ijyt posted:Compare it to the normal VMC version too, I've found some VMA stuff can be lighter - though I think yellow ochre might be a bit more muted than Averland. That's been my experience as well. So long as it's reasonably close enough to the color I want I'm usually fine with it, so if it's a bit more muted then I'll deal. It's going to be for a KoW dwarf army so I'm more concerned with getting a similarly-colored base coat down than getting 100% accuracy.
|
|
#
?
Mar 18, 2017 22:12
|
|
|
These took way too long and yes drill your barrels, but I need to get a pin vice for it some time when I have the opportunity
|
|
#
?
Mar 18, 2017 22:28
|
|
|
Southern Heel posted:As a more general question, how do you guys handle bulk painting logistically? I've just bought a rather large starter set and am looking to paint 8-16 dudes at a time: I gather a fresh wet palette and a fairly large brush for basecoating and washing? I'm working on a big bulk army right now of 60 infantry. I've found a really good way to do it using 10 rows of 6 mans each, which allows me to do one or two rows of a "part" (think pants, jackets, etc) at a time. I can also vary the color a bit between doing the same kind of item (mess tin color, for example), giving some diversity to the whole army without straying too far from the uniform. Here's a pic:  The furthest rows back were the first ones and are the most painted, while the rows toward the front have the least amount of work done on them. This also keeps me sane because I can jump around to different parts without getting bogged down doing 60 jackets and then 60 pants and then 60 guns and on and on and on.
|
|
#
?
Mar 19, 2017 01:15
|
|
|
Ayn Marx posted:Before I start batch painting, left awuuu or right awuuuu? awwuu Left awuuu, I think.
|
|
#
?
Mar 19, 2017 02:44
|
|
|
Working on this guy and decided to give a shot at warpflame using what I've read about painting fire and it didn't come out The Best. Any tips on cleaning that up or is it a wash? I wanted yellow in that transition but I think I needed a much more pale one than what I used. mango sentinel fucked around with this message at 04:56 on Mar 19, 2017 |
|
#
?
Mar 19, 2017 04:53
|
|
|
mango sentinel posted:Working on this guy and decided to give a shot at warpflame using what I've read about painting fire and it didn't come out The Best. It's totally fixable, just blend more yellow into it - at the moment it goes yellow -> sightly lighter green -> green, and it's too stark. There should be more transition betwen the yellow and the green. I'd extend that lighter green you have now further up the flame, then try to blend the yellow into it.
|
|
#
?
Mar 19, 2017 05:02
|
|
|
Gravitas Shortfall posted:It's totally fixable, just blend more yellow into it - at the moment it goes yellow -> sightly lighter green -> green, and it's too stark. There should be more transition betwen the yellow and the green. I'd extend that lighter green you have now further up the flame, then try to blend the yellow into it. Disclaimer: I am an amature at best who just started painting recently.  But to add to this, I would do exactly that, only add a darker green in the recesses like a wash, then dry brush the yellow in light layers over the raised parts. Work the yellow horizontally back and forth with a flicking motion, then slowly pull the effect up the flames being careful to just barely hit the outermost edges of the flames really lightly. If you're feeling ballsy, do the same dry brushing on the really light part at the bottom of the flames into the yellow, with even less paint/motion, and distance into the yellow. Kabuki Shipoopi fucked around with this message at 05:16 on Mar 19, 2017 |
|
#
?
Mar 19, 2017 05:13
|
|
|
Kabuki Shipoopi posted:Disclaimer: I am an amature at best who just started painting recently.
|
|
#
?
Mar 19, 2017 05:26
|
|
|
Oh! I was totally unaware. I'd like to see a good video on painting fire, because I would have done exactly that, but I play Tau and I don't have any opportunities to paint fire or cloth.  Thanks for the info! At least now I know what not to do  What about doing it in reverse by pulling the darker green down into the yellow like this:  I kinda wanna see how to achieve brightness in fire like this now too, also what you end up doing with that piece. Kabuki Shipoopi fucked around with this message at 06:33 on Mar 19, 2017 |
|
#
?
Mar 19, 2017 06:12
|
|
|
Slimnoid posted:Is there a Model Air/Game Air equivalent to GW's Averland Sunset? I'm in need of an airbrush paint in that particular color, and I'm not exactly thrilled with the idea of having an airbrush paint in a flip-top bottle that I'll then have to transfer into a dropper bottle. VGC Heavy Goldbrown or VMC Goldbrown, according to the dakkadakka.com paint compatability chart. I never tried that color myself, so I can't confirm. However, they recently updated this list, and removed a bunch of blatantly incorrect conversions, so it might be worth a shot.
|
|
#
?
Mar 19, 2017 06:46
|
|
|
mango sentinel posted:You don't highlight fire because it's a light source. Recess are brighter than edges. I could do a pass and "highlight" with the darker color but I'm just working on the transition for now. While this is technically true, if you draw the darker reds down to surround the sculpted flames they look more like individual tongues of flame than a undifferentiated mass. You can see it in the warp fire above. Edit; I'm pretty bad at painting fire tbh, but here's a crappy picture of how I did it. 
Gravitas Shortfall fucked around with this message at 08:21 on Mar 19, 2017 |
|
#
?
Mar 19, 2017 08:15
|
|
|
mango sentinel posted:Working on this guy and decided to give a shot at warpflame using what I've read about painting fire and it didn't come out The Best. A paler yellow would definitely work well here, but there are some paints that seem tailor-made for this kind of effect. Vallejo Game Air, for instance, makes Livery Green (72.733), which is a great tennis-ball fluorescent green. Hit that near the tips with blends of progressively darker greens and you should get closer to the effect I think you're going for. If you're looking for a simpler method, though, St. Duncan covered this kind of fire recently. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KP5oxRzcYv8 e.: Gravitas, I keep forgetting to compliment you on your Rapture minis. They're Objectivism-riffic! holy crap how am i still awake Dr. Gargunza fucked around with this message at 09:16 on Mar 19, 2017 |
|
#
?
Mar 19, 2017 09:03
|
|
|
I'm not sure how many people are interested in historicals in this thread so I've primarily kept my posting there - but I am really happy with these:Southern Heel posted:Woo! Completed and I managed not to sperg too much over the details: They remind me of WHFB in the best kind of way - toothless criminals rubbing shoulders with shopkeepers in hastily formed bands, whose allegiance was simply down to which army arrived in their town first. The first real reintegration of a classical strategy and tactics into warfare, the rise of gunpowder and demise of knights* all in a single period. * https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/London_lobsters Yes, the London LOBSTERS. EDIT: now in the right thread, I hope. 
|
|
#
?
Mar 19, 2017 11:23
|
|
|
signalnoise posted:Cheap being the operative word, assuming you're willing to clean it and if you break the needle you replace the whole drat unit. If you're basecoating, detail doesn't matter, so you can have it be spattery or whatever, doesn't matter a bit. The cheapest airbrush will give you a better single color basecoat than the best brush in my experience. http://www.harborfreight.com/quick-change-airbrush-kit-93506.html I have one of these, and it's basically like owning infinite rattlecans. No special thinners or in-depth cleaning is required, either, since it's an external mix airbrush. Plus, since it's got 6 quick-swappable reservoirs, it makes doing zenithial/umbral pre-shading super loving easy, since you can just mix up black/white/grey and have your primer coat done in minutes.
|
|
#
?
Mar 19, 2017 13:22
|
|
|
I would like a technique that makes painting low-detail areas as easy as painting detailed areas. Like how I can put silver on a bunch of chains and put ink on it and wow, depth. Thanks in advance
|
|
#
?
Mar 19, 2017 16:50
|
|
|
signalnoise posted:I would like a technique that makes painting low-detail areas as easy as painting detailed areas. Like how I can put silver on a bunch of chains and put ink on it and wow, depth. Thanks in advance Pierzak fucked around with this message at 17:06 on Mar 19, 2017 |
|
#
?
Mar 19, 2017 17:03
|
|
|
Southern Heel posted:I'm not sure how many people are interested in historicals in this thread so I've primarily kept my posting there - but I am really happy with these: Don't you ever not post your historicals here, Southern Heel. These guys turned out really lively and full of character! (Which company did you say these were again, Perry or something else?)
|
|
#
?
Mar 19, 2017 17:48
|
|
|
Good morning all, looking for advice as to where to go from here. I've attached what I've done so far and the reference image. Not necessarily looking to copy the reference 100% but looking for advice on how to get more contrast or more interesting detail.  
|
|
#
?
Mar 19, 2017 18:22
|
|
|
Crosspost from the SG thread: Allow me to present "The Burger Boys"  BK ("Upper Management")  Fuddrucker ("Shift Manager")  "Customer Service" (Gangers) Checkers  Arby  Johnny Rocket  Jack  Hardee  Mac  Carl Jr.  "Fry Guys" (Juves) Wendy  Denny  Rally  Wimpy  Apologies for the sub-par photos - I'll get some better ones after Adepticon. I was going for a base color close to the NM tiles, and I wasn't able to get it exact, unfortunately. I think the bases did come out pretty well, regardless.
|
|
#
?
Mar 19, 2017 19:09
|
|
|
PyroDwarf posted:Good morning all, looking for advice as to where to go from here. I've attached what I've done so far and the reference image. Not necessarily looking to copy the reference 100% but looking for advice on how to get more contrast or more interesting detail. Push the highlights on the blue further towards white/pale grey. Make the mask it's holding silver, it only looks blue in the reference due to the lighting.
|
|
#
?
Mar 19, 2017 19:23
|
|
|
berzerkmonkey posted:Crosspost from the SG thread: Go Burger Boys! Love em!
|
|
#
?
Mar 19, 2017 19:48
|
|
|
Pierzak posted:Do normal highlights but add glaze medium to paint, 1:1 volume. Bam, 3x better smooth highlights without blending. I love this thread.
|
|
#
?
Mar 19, 2017 20:02
|
|
|
Thank you for the tip Dr. Gargunza! I don't have a big array of yellows but I did have a fluorescent green which gave me the sickly yellow look I was after. The photograph is showing me some spots I can touch up but this looks way better than the first pass. Also need to paint those banners in white or grey since it's starting to look a lot like Christmas, but I'm otherwise pretty happy with how it's coming along.
|
|
#
?
Mar 19, 2017 22:25
|
|
|
mango sentinel posted:Thank you for the tip Dr. Gargunza! I don't have a big array of yellows but I did have a fluorescent green which gave me the sickly yellow look I was after. Here's what I did for Skaven green fire. Though I made mine more sooty/dirty. I just started with a base of white on the whole thing then drybrushed up from lightest colors to darkest. 
|
|
#
?
Mar 19, 2017 23:52
|
|
|
Dude, the green exhaust plume coming out of that one rat's tank is loving perfect. Nice job!
|
|
#
?
Mar 20, 2017 02:49
|
|
|
I want to start painting little dudes but I have no paints or brushes or little dudes. Are those Warhammer painting sets with 6 or so paints and a few miniatures worth it or should I just buy what I want separately?
|
|
#
?
Mar 20, 2017 03:46
|
|
|
Bullet Proof posted:I want to start painting little dudes but I have no paints or brushes or little dudes. Are those Warhammer painting sets with 6 or so paints and a few miniatures worth it or should I just buy what I want separately? Try the Reaper Learn to Paint kits. Much better value for the paints, and the two they have right now (Core Skills and Layer Up) are designed to give you a good, basic set of paints.
|
|
#
?
Mar 20, 2017 04:30
|
|
|
Bullet Proof posted:I want to start painting little dudes but I have no paints or brushes or little dudes. Are those Warhammer painting sets with 6 or so paints and a few miniatures worth it or should I just buy what I want separately? The Reaper Bones sets are way better value all around at ~30 for 11 full size paints in a pretty broad set of useful basic colors, 3 models, carrying case, and two fine detail brushes. Buying the reaper set and a $3 variety pack of poo poo brushes from Walmart is probably The Way To Go, especially if you just want to learn. mango sentinel fucked around with this message at 05:18 on Mar 20, 2017 |
|
#
?
Mar 20, 2017 05:12
|
|
|
Thanks dudes, that looks perfect for what I want.
|
|
#
?
Mar 20, 2017 10:35
|
|
|
At some point, you'll want to get some primer as well if you want to paint anything not-Bones. But that's relatively easy to get. Most regular spray primers like Rustoleum will work, or you can go with a brush-on primer like Vallejo's stuff. However, it's not necessary for Bones minis (and spray primers can actually be bad for them).
|
|
#
?
Mar 20, 2017 20:34
|
|
|
I've only ever tried painting one Bones mini, and that was at a paint-and-take at PAX. The material seemed extremely hydrophobic, and thin coats were quite difficult to do. Do Bones minis take primer from an airbrush fine?
|
|
#
?
Mar 20, 2017 21:07
|
|
|
Floppychop posted:I've only ever tried painting one Bones mini, and that was at a paint-and-take at PAX. The material seemed extremely hydrophobic, and thin coats were quite difficult to do. Yeah I've never had good luck directly painting Reaper minis but they prime with rattlecan and brush primer fine. I assume anything you would use out of an airbrush should be fine.
|
|
#
?
Mar 20, 2017 21:25
|
|
|
In my experience Bones takes highly pigmented paint best. Reaper HD etc
|
|
#
?
Mar 20, 2017 21:50
|
|
|
I tried Krylon white primer on bones and it stayed sticky even after drying. I stripped that off and used Krylon grey paint+primer which worked better but seems kinda thick to use as primer.
|
|
#
?
Mar 20, 2017 22:04
|
|
|
The Moon Monster posted:I tried Krylon white primer on bones and it stayed sticky even after drying. I stripped that off and used Krylon grey paint+primer which worked better but seems kinda thick to use as primer. I use Krylon primer and it stays tacky after primed but paints perfectly fine.
|
|
#
?
Mar 20, 2017 22:07
|
|
|
The Moon Monster posted:I tried Krylon white primer on bones and it stayed sticky even after drying. I stripped that off and used Krylon grey paint+primer which worked better but seems kinda thick to use as primer. The primer will stay tacky until its painted over on bones minis, but if its outright wet and clinging to poo poo then you might need to scrub them (reaper uses a certain mold release for their not-quite-hard-not-quite-soft plastic, that gives it that weird smooth-feeling residue). Just soak them in soapy water and go at them with an old toothbrush.
|
|
#
?
Mar 20, 2017 22:33
|
|
|
The Army Painter sprays work fine with Bones, obviously they're more expensive than more generic/multi purpose brands
|
|
#
?
Mar 20, 2017 23:17
|
|
|
|
| # ? Jun 2, 2024 09:21 |
|
|
Speaking of tacky paint, I used some Montana Gold spray paint on my Sisters of Battle and while I've managed to paint layers on top, it stayed tacky for ages after putting the spray layer down. I left it at least 24 hours after spraying the gold. Am I doing something wrong?
|
|
#
?
Mar 21, 2017 01:19
|
|
