What type of plants are you interested in growing? This poll is closed. |
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Perennials! | 142 | 20.91% | |
Annuals! | 30 | 4.42% | |
Woody plants! | 62 | 9.13% | |
Succulent plants! | 171 | 25.18% | |
Tropical plants! | 60 | 8.84% | |
Non-vascular plants are the best! | 31 | 4.57% | |
Screw you, I'd rather eat them! | 183 | 26.95% | |
Total: | 679 votes |
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kedo posted:
my big pothos is near a north-facing window and has a lot of brown spots on the side closer to the window. even some of the newer growth gets it. it seems healthy otherwise. the cutting I have in a jar of water in the other north-facing window doesn't have the same problem but that's only ~6 leaves vs hundreds on my big plant to possibly have problems. but I have no idea! e: I love pothos so much. I bought a big boston fern recently, here's hoping I can keep it alive
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# ? Mar 4, 2017 08:22 |
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# ? Jun 3, 2024 21:48 |
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melon cat fucked around with this message at 06:38 on Mar 16, 2019 |
# ? Mar 4, 2017 14:29 |
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I was just looking that up last night because I have a small one that has browned tips. I've read that you should only let the surface soil dry out before watering again, and it needs humidity. so a spray or two of water now and then. it's a tropical plant so I don't know why they'd want you to let it dry out completely e: I'm assuming the tips of mine are brown because of the dry air + not watering enough, but they say yellowing could be a pH issue too. and it needs good drainage with the soil and the pot. snoo fucked around with this message at 17:49 on Mar 4, 2017 |
# ? Mar 4, 2017 17:39 |
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melon cat fucked around with this message at 06:38 on Mar 16, 2019 |
# ? Mar 4, 2017 18:52 |
I don't know much about palms but as a general rule "bone dry" isn't really a good idea for anything except cacti and succulents. I'd try watering more often and see if it improves. I have no idea why they'd say you have to use a plastic pot though, that doesn't really make any sense.
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# ? Mar 4, 2017 20:20 |
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Ahaha. The more we talk about this the more it becomes apparent that the garden store employee had no idea what he was talking about. I really wish I was there when she bought the arecas. Because everything he told her sounds like advice an Internet troll would give someone. "Nah bro, you've gotta make sure that the soil is rock hard dry. Plants love that poo poo." melon cat fucked around with this message at 21:38 on Mar 4, 2017 |
# ? Mar 4, 2017 20:40 |
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If your palm tree is in a pot with no drainage: letting the top dry out isn't a terrible idea. In the pictures it looks like it got over watered followed by dessication. Maybe try watering a small amount daily for a bit? Particularly if your humidity is that low. Start with a quarter or half cup. If the leaf tips start browning and curling: add more water. If the leaves start browning/yellowing from the stem: you're over watering. You'll eventually get dialed in to what your plant needs. If you haven't repotted yet, you probably don't need to worry about nutritional deficiencies at this point as it probably still has fertilizer from the store/nursery.
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# ? Mar 4, 2017 23:30 |
Yeah getting a pot with drainage would probably be best, obviously you'll need something on the bottom to catch excess water too.
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# ? Mar 5, 2017 00:30 |
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my small areca palm came from a random grocery store and I picked it over some ivy because I wanted a more upright plant. I lost over half of the stems/fronds because I was watering it too much, and then too little, and there's only 4 left now. I hope it'll do better with the misting and keeping it watered right. I eventually bought some ivy though that's growing well, at least!
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# ? Mar 5, 2017 06:39 |
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So I hosed up by planting iris bulbs and leaving the planter out overnight on a window sill when it went down to 20F. I've brought them inside; but is it too late? Should I start over, or do they have a little forgiveness for a single overnight freeze that may or may not have even reached the actual bulbs? They were about 3 inches deep, but in a plastic planter so...?
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# ? Mar 5, 2017 18:18 |
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Plantgoons, I have a couple of red banana trees that the winter has not been kind to. They were overwatered and I had an ongoing issue with gnats/flies in the soil. When moving the other day I knocked one over and saw that the root system was largely nonexistent save for a single smallish longer "branch" root. One has a new leaf in the main stalk that has started to rot, so that's beyond saving, but I'm hoping that the other may make a recovery despite my apparent efforts to the contrary. At what point should I just say gently caress it and pull it?
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# ? Mar 6, 2017 22:27 |
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If I recall correctly, banana plants are mostly root and shoot up new trunks frequently in the right climates. If your root system is mostly gone, you may be out of luck.
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# ? Mar 6, 2017 23:18 |
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I don't know if this counts as plant thread material but I was wondering if anyone could help me identify these trees that came with my house in the mid-Atlantic US. They're some variety of evergreen. I think they could be eastern arborvitae. In any case they seem to be quite brown in places and even white. I don't know whether that's normal winter behavior or if there's something I need to be doing to fix these guys up. If they are arborvitae it looks like anything from watering to insects count be the problem. Any help would be appreciated. There are a few more (larger) images in this album.
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# ? Mar 11, 2017 22:00 |
I don't know what it is but you should chop it down before it becomes 30ft tall.
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# ? Mar 11, 2017 22:11 |
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Nettle Soup posted:I don't know what it is but you should chop it down before it becomes 30ft tall. This is a very good point. They do seem pretty close to the house, whatever they are.
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# ? Mar 12, 2017 01:20 |
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7of7 posted:I don't know if this counts as plant thread material but I was wondering if anyone could help me identify these trees that came with my house in the mid-Atlantic US. They're some variety of evergreen. I think they could be eastern arborvitae. In any case they seem to be quite brown in places and even white. I don't know whether that's normal winter behavior or if there's something I need to be doing to fix these guys up. If they are arborvitae it looks like anything from watering to insects count be the problem. Any help would be appreciated. If you were in the west, I'd say juniper.
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# ? Mar 12, 2017 02:53 |
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It's some sp. of Cupressus imo and yeah it's way too close to the house.
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# ? Mar 12, 2017 07:16 |
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That's some of the worst tree placement I've ever seen. I hate being aware of bad landscaping. My neighbors have a volunteer bush honeysuckle that their landscapers have begun maintaining and pruning like it belongs there. The apartments I walk by every day just topped/murdered their crape myrtles that were previously not all that bad. I had to ban my own landscapers (landlord hires them) from my backyard because they kept whacking the flower bed and blowing all the leaves into the vegetable garden. Also they pissed on my fence.
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# ? Mar 12, 2017 15:58 |
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Is this a houseplant thread or can I post pictures of my first really huge garden and ask for ideas on what to plant in the borders?
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# ? Mar 12, 2017 18:59 |
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learnincurve posted:Is this a houseplant thread or can I post pictures of my first really huge garden and ask for ideas on what to plant in the borders? We do have a separate gardening thread if you want to grow food, but feel free to ask for help with anything else here. What zone are you in?
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# ? Mar 12, 2017 19:09 |
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I'm in the UK, I've just checked my phone and the photos are really terrible so I'll have to describe what I'm working with. The garden is at the front of the house with a small yard at the back which will be mostly shed. Three borders, 10m x 0.5m One running along the fence, two running either side of a sloping path. Middle of the lawn there is a square 1.5m across. Under the windows there is a rocky/gravel area about 2m deep and running the length of the house. Last owner cleared all these areas and left me with a blank slate. I was thinking apple tree in the square, it's far enough from the houses for roots not to be a problem and as the house is elevated height won't be a problem. The border and rocky area I've no idea about.
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# ? Mar 12, 2017 19:27 |
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learnincurve posted:I'm in the UK, I've just checked my phone and the photos are really terrible so I'll have to describe what I'm working with. The garden is at the front of the house with a small yard at the back which will be mostly shed. Three borders, 10m x 0.5m One running along the fence, two running either side of a sloping path. Middle of the lawn there is a square 1.5m across. Under the windows there is a rocky/gravel area about 2m deep and running the length of the house. Last owner cleared all these areas and left me with a blank slate. It's important how much of a freeze you get in the winter, and how much sunlight you get. https://www.orangepippintrees.co.uk/articles/growing-fruit-trees-in-the-uk-climate e. It actually has conversion info: "Most of the UK and Ireland are Zone 8, with most coastal areas in Zone 9. The Scottish mountains are Zone 7." So, warmer than an American might guess, but with a lot less sun than comparable zones in the US. You should definitely be able to select an appropriate fruit tree for your spot. e2. Oh and that gravel area along your house might be french drains. If so, don't plant it, although you could put planter boxes or something on top as long as runoff from the roof can still get to the gravel. Leperflesh fucked around with this message at 21:25 on Mar 12, 2017 |
# ? Mar 12, 2017 21:20 |
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Looking at that link and checking out what zones are, to be honest that's the first time I had ever heard of them. Zone 7/8 is central UK if I compare average temperatures and rainfall. It's a bit of a running joke/myth that it rains all the time and we get no sun, we get less rain than most of America and our average temps hide the fact that we don't really have extremes. Our BIG FREEZE panic this year will make you laugh. http://www.dailystar.co.uk/news/latest-news/581163/uk-weather-february-2017-forecast-winter-maps-temperatures
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# ? Mar 12, 2017 22:17 |
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UK has it's own zone system, google RHS hardiness. Here is a good plant finder to give you ideas. https://www.rhs.org.uk/plants/search-form
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# ? Mar 13, 2017 00:26 |
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That's amazing, thank you.
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# ? Mar 13, 2017 07:22 |
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Lavender grows really well and the bees will love you. Fuschia also grows really well (if your part gets a lot of sustained hard freezes, you might want to give them extra mulch over the winter until established), the bees love them, and they're beautiful. Hydrangea is another popular option that often looks good in a front corner. (i like bees)
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# ? Mar 14, 2017 20:20 |
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Enfys posted:Lavender grows really well and the bees will love you. On this topic: I like bees too, and have a big pot of lavender sat out back right now. If anyone knows, can you tell me should we be cutting all of the growth off every year? Or are we supposed to just deadhead it? Or do we just pluck what we want as we use it, and leave the rest of the growth over winter? Because that's what we've done so far. We only got the plant last spring, and it got huge over the summer. You are right, the bees loved it! Well, that and the tomatoes/cukes growing right alongside the lavender. tl;dr How do I prune/harvest lavender?
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# ? Mar 17, 2017 21:12 |
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Once lavender starts getting woody it's usually cut back hard. This keeps it nice and bushy and in shape. Lavender take a very hard prune. Usually it's cut back by about half when it's done flowering.
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# ? Mar 20, 2017 05:33 |
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goodnight mooned posted:Once lavender starts getting woody it's usually cut back hard. This keeps it nice and bushy and in shape. Lavender take a very hard prune. Usually it's cut back by about half when it's done flowering. Cool, thanks. So, assuming I haven't pruned the lavender, and it's probably at or just past last frost/freeze: Is there any reason not to just cut it right back to the woody stump?
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# ? Mar 20, 2017 17:48 |
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No reason except that will probably reduce your yield in the following season. If you aren't too worried about the shape, just reduce it by half or two thirds to leave a good framework of nodes for new growth.
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# ? Mar 21, 2017 03:05 |
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Is there a forum or thread for landscaping? I'm on a quest to make my yard nice.
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# ? Mar 23, 2017 20:46 |
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https://www.reddit.com/r/landscaping/ There are some helpful people there.
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# ? Mar 23, 2017 20:52 |
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Blog post: The weather has finally improved from gales throwing ice water in your face and I can do gardening for the first time ever. Today's job is to lay the praving slabs for the shed which turns up on thursday and to burn all that drat cardboard from the move. I've ordered a four tier wooden cold frame and spent a small fortune on plug plants which will be turning up over the next few months. I've wussed out and am hiring someone to cut all the grass and do the hedges so I just get the fun parts. Mowing the lawn showed that we have more borders than we thought. What's happened is that they have had that plastic weed guard down and the grass has grown on top of it. Will be a case of peeling that up, composting, replacing it and then putting bark on top on three banks but just composting one for the annuals, that border will be bee and butterfly orentated. I also got my apple tree coming it's a self pollinating russet.
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# ? Mar 24, 2017 09:39 |
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I finally got around to repotting/splitting my pothos. it was already really huge when I bought it and it's seemed fine. I never expected ~3 inches of solid root in the bottom, though. it got a nice pruning (and I feel like maybe I could've kept the cuttings to give to people if they wanted them, but I certainly wasn't going to hoard more of the plant) and it's not straining its hanging pot as much. and I have a nice big pot of it on a shelf now.
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# ? Mar 24, 2017 22:10 |
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I have a miracle berry plant that I believe has a case of scale bugs. I'd rather avoid removing affected areas of the plant; what's the best topical method of dealing with them?
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# ? Mar 24, 2017 23:17 |
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Are there too many to just pull off by hand?
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# ? Mar 24, 2017 23:27 |
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Tremors posted:I have a miracle berry plant that I believe has a case of scale bugs. I'd rather avoid removing affected areas of the plant; what's the best topical method of dealing with them? Neem oil?
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# ? Mar 25, 2017 02:05 |
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Shame Boner posted:Plants in General: My yard is Thunderdome. I like this thread title better.
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# ? Mar 25, 2017 02:35 |
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The Snoo posted:
Did you score the root ball? When plants are that pot-bound, cutting slits every inch or so down the sides of the football helps the plant make new, shorter roots out the sides, not just growing from the root tips.
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# ? Mar 26, 2017 15:30 |
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# ? Jun 3, 2024 21:48 |
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71 plug plants for the borders potted up (a bird got no. 72) it's a mixture of bee and butterfly friendly perennials. Cold frame/grow house is being delivered early next week so I can get them outside in it. Also I have decided I dislike miracal-gro expand and grow Quite A Lot and the rest of the bag is being mixed in with the top soil when I re-do the borders.
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# ? Mar 26, 2017 18:23 |