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antiga posted:Water does come out from the hot taps. Not sure about your second question, but not that I know of. The basement is it's own zone and heat down there seems to be working just fine as well. I assume you've already done a service call by now, but since you know the boiler is working and water is flowing out of the hot taps, the first thing to look at is to see if boiler water is getting to the domestic hot water heat exchanger. It's easy enough to confirm if this is your problem just by feeling pipes, but tracking down why there might not be any flow is more involved. It could be a circulator pump isn't working or a valve solenoid isn't opening (which you may not have on a small residential system) due to a control problem or a mechanical failure, or perhaps the heat exchanger is just clogged.If you DO have boiler water flowing, you can troubleshoot the domestic hot water circuit. In any case, always be prudent of the dangers inherent in boiler systems where you have risks of explosion, CO poisoning, and scalding hot water/steam. Don't do anything without fully understanding exactly what it will do to the system.
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Mar 22, 2017 12:40
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glynnenstein posted:I assume you've already done a service call by now, but since you know the boiler is working and water is flowing out of the hot taps, the first thing to look at is to see if boiler water is getting to the domestic hot water heat exchanger. It's easy enough to confirm if this is your problem just by feeling pipes, but tracking down why there might not be any flow is more involved. It could be a circulator pump isn't working or a valve solenoid isn't opening (which you may not have on a small residential system) due to a control problem or a mechanical failure, or perhaps the heat exchanger is just clogged.If you DO have boiler water flowing, you can troubleshoot the domestic hot water circuit. Thanks for this. I should be more knowledgeable about my system but right now I am not there. I scheduled a service call but a strange thing happened before the tech was set to arrive today. The rep on the phone asked me to crank up the heat in both zones and run hot water for 15 minutes; water remained cold and baseboards continued to work. Later, I was washing dishes and realized I had hot water. Two hot showers this morning with no problems. No idea what type of failure this might suggest. Needless to say I cancelled the repair appointment, but I expect this issue might come back so I am going to set up a maintenance appt soon.
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Mar 22, 2017 17:38
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antiga posted:Thanks for this. I should be more knowledgeable about my system but right now I am not there. I had a similarly weird issue with my hot water / central heating boiler. Central heating would fail to turn on (boiler didn't start), but when *both* central heating and hot water turned on, the heating would work and radiators would get warm. Hot water worked fine the whole time... Diagnosis steps from our plumber were to monitor and next time it fails, check: A:That the light on thermostat receiver turns on when it should (receiving a signal to start heating). If not problem is with thermostat. B:That we can hear the Solenoid relay switch click on. (Move thermostat up and down to check we can hear it turning on and off). If not, problem is with solenoid. C: If both of the above are working as expected, problem is with the valve. Not sure how well this translates to your problem and system, but those are likely points of failure if your boiler is working OK now.
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Mar 22, 2017 22:13
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I have a few pieces of wooden siding that has fallen off and is exposing the inside of my attic to the elements. These holes are in the walls. I will be getting the siding repaired or replaced this summer but in the mean time what are some patch job options to keep the snow and rain out? The house was built in 1905 and still has original wooden siding nailed to wood planks.
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Mar 22, 2017 23:14
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knowonecanknow posted:I have a few pieces of wooden siding that has fallen off and is exposing the inside of my attic to the elements. These holes are in the walls. I will be getting the siding repaired or replaced this summer but in the mean time what are some patch job options to keep the snow and rain out? The house was built in 1905 and still has original wooden siding nailed to wood planks. Shopping bag, scissors and duck tape.
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Mar 22, 2017 23:20
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knowonecanknow posted:I have a few pieces of wooden siding that has fallen off and is exposing the inside of my attic to the elements. These holes are in the walls. I will be getting the siding repaired or replaced this summer but in the mean time what are some patch job options to keep the snow and rain out? The house was built in 1905 and still has original wooden siding nailed to wood planks. If you've got a ladder and can get to the exterior, pick up a 6" roll of aluminum flashing from home depot for 10$ and some silicone caulk. You can just cut it a piece to length with tin snips and caulk the flashing over the gap so you don't get water intrusion. I'd also put an aluminum trim nail or two in there to help hold it, though that may not be strictly necessary. Don't use galvanized nails, those can react with aluminum (though you may not see any effects for a long time so it's probably a moot point with a temporary repair). Regarding that knob and tube wiring, is that disconnected and abandoned?
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Mar 23, 2017 12:30
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OSU_Matthew posted:If you've got a ladder and can get to the exterior, pick up a 6" roll of aluminum flashing from home depot for 10$ and some silicone caulk. You can just cut it a piece to length with tin snips and caulk the flashing over the gap so you don't get water intrusion. I'd also put an aluminum trim nail or two in there to help hold it, though that may not be strictly necessary. Don't use galvanized nails, those can react with aluminum (though you may not see any effects for a long time so it's probably a moot point with a temporary repair). Thanks for the suggestion. Not exactly for the knob and tube. Its cut off a few inches above the picture but its still live. I have currently replaced about 40% of the knob and tube in my house. It is a slow process but it's coming along. I am ripping out the stuff as I replace it so it's becoming easier to replace as its not such a giant bowl of spaghetti every where now.
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Mar 23, 2017 15:48
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Grill update- My new grates arrived crooked. I thought they sent me the wrong ones. Customer support gave me a tip to fix them. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nyXRNeg8ymA
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Mar 23, 2017 22:54
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So we just bought a townhome. Nice place, but it isn't really wired for anything other than cable. Which is all fine and dandy if you're the TV sort, but we're more on the cable cutting side of things. I'd really like to get the place wired for ethernet/fiber, but it's slab and hardwood on the main floor, so fun times are to be had. It does have a security system with cat5 running all over the place and we're not using the service. On a level of 1 to "you'll get sued you idiot" how dumb would it be to put a switch in the security system cubby and use that cable for my own nefarious purposes?
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Mar 24, 2017 16:40
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Warbird posted:So we just bought a townhome. Nice place, but it isn't really wired for anything other than cable. Which is all fine and dandy if you're the TV sort, but we're more on the cable cutting side of things. I'd really like to get the place wired for ethernet/fiber, but it's slab and hardwood on the main floor, so fun times are to be had. It does have a security system with cat5 running all over the place and we're not using the service. On a level of 1 to "you'll get sued you idiot" how dumb would it be to put a switch in the security system cubby and use that cable for my own nefarious purposes? You own all of the cable inside your house. Do whatever you want with it.
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Mar 24, 2017 16:46
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We're studs in technically, but I figured that was likely the case. We do have attic access, so I may look into doing it the "normal" way should it not be too costly/aggravating. My roommate has an enterprise grade switch (with 2x hot swappable power supplies) that sounds like a Huey taking off, so sticking it up there may be best.
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Mar 24, 2017 16:54
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Warbird posted:We're studs in technically, but I figured that was likely the case. We do have attic access, so I may look into doing it the "normal" way should it not be too costly/aggravating. My roommate has an enterprise grade switch (with 2x hot swappable power supplies) that sounds like a Huey taking off, so sticking it up there may be best. Buy a cheaper switch and pocket the difference in electricity. The quietest setting on something like that is still audible.
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Mar 24, 2017 17:50
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Warbird posted:So we just bought a townhome. Nice place, but it isn't really wired for anything other than cable. Which is all fine and dandy if you're the TV sort, but we're more on the cable cutting side of things. I'd really like to get the place wired for ethernet/fiber, but it's slab and hardwood on the main floor, so fun times are to be had. It does have a security system with cat5 running all over the place and we're not using the service. On a level of 1 to "you'll get sued you idiot" how dumb would it be to put a switch in the security system cubby and use that cable for my own nefarious purposes? You might also look into ethernet powerline adapters to route traffic over your electrical wiring. Otherwise the cat5 security wiring will be just dandy. Just set up a patch panel where it terminates, and patch those into your switch, and connect that to your router. Bonus would be if you have any ceiling runs, look at getting a Ubiquiti Unifi wireless access point to get greater wifi coverage. Other thing to note, cat 5 is only 100Mbps. Not an issue for 90% of people, especially if you're on a 15Mbps service or something, but in the future it might be worth replacing with cat5e or 6/6a to get gigabit speeds Oh, other thing to note, make sure you have all four blue/green/brown/orange cables with their corresponding white pairs. Likely you do, but it's possible sensors and stuff might have only utilized two of the stands so they're could potentially be issues there. Only tools you need are a punch down tool and stripper/crimper for the job.
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Mar 24, 2017 19:33
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Very silly question, but I just now kind of realized that my house is protected by an anti-theft device (sticker). I think both my front and back door have an ADT or similar "This house is protected by..." Since I don't have any such security measure that I am aware of, and I don't see any remnants of one either (no odd cables running around the place, no sensors on the windows or doors, no security panel or a hole where one used to be) I have to imagine that one of the previous owners either took the setup with them (probably not) or just got the window decals from someone. That being said, I am looking to replace some of my doors in the next year or two. Any recommendations?
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Mar 24, 2017 22:13
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OSU_Matthew posted:Other thing to note, cat 5 is only 100Mbps. Not an issue for 90% of people, especially if you're on a 15Mbps service or something, but in the future it might be worth replacing with cat5e or 6/6a to get gigabit speeds The distances inside a house, cat 5 will most likely run gigabit just fine.
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Mar 25, 2017 15:36
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OSU_Matthew posted:Other thing to note, cat 5 is only 100Mbps. Cat5 is certified to 100m for up to 2.5GBase-T (as of when the 2.5x multipliers came out) under ideal conditions. Homes are generally pretty close to ideal. Don't wrap it around your electrical wires, fluorescent ballasts, and the microwave.
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Mar 25, 2017 16:40
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I think you'd have to go out of your way to find actual Cat5 rather than Cat5e. Most normal people would be able to figure out that when someone recommends "Cat5" they're recommending the easily available Cat5e and not literal (probably hard to find) Cat5.
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Mar 25, 2017 23:11
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FISHMANPET posted:I think you'd have to go out of your way to find actual Cat5 rather than Cat5e. Most normal people would be able to figure out that when someone recommends "Cat5" they're recommending the easily available Cat5e and not literal (probably hard to find) Cat5. This is talking about alarm company installed cable of unknown origin. I think cat3 isn't out of the picture here or the pairs being split up halfway down the run until proven otherwise. 
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Mar 25, 2017 23:16
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Oh jeez totally missed we were talking about existing wiring and not new wiring.
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Mar 25, 2017 23:28
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H110Hawk posted:Cat5 is certified to 100m for up to 2.5GBase-T (as of when the 2.5x multipliers came out) under ideal conditions. Homes are generally pretty close to ideal. Don't wrap it around your electrical wires, fluorescent ballasts, and the microwave. n0tqu1tesane posted:The distances inside a house, cat 5 will most likely run gigabit just fine. Huh, thanks for the clarification! That's good to know. So it's just the cat5 standard that's set to 100Base-TX, but the cables themselves are capable of transmitting faster speeds even though the twist ratio isn't certified for the same amount of crosstalk reduction. Makes sense seeing as it's not really even a different gauge or pinout. 
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Mar 26, 2017 13:41
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In the meantime, I've got 100ft of flat cat6 I've run up the stairs and under the baseboards to where we have the upstairs bridge located. It all works fine and dandy, but I have to go across a few doorways to get where I need to be. I don't have enough cord to go over and around and have just put them across the bottom with a strip of painter's tape to prevent tripping/tangling. For the couple of closets I'm ok with this, but there are two guest bedroom doors where this doesn't look great. Would it be worth looking into to run the cord under the carpet somehow or should I just source a longer flat cord and go over the doors?
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Mar 27, 2017 15:09
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I would get more cable. A bump under the carpet isn't going to make you happy either.
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Mar 27, 2017 17:15
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The cable in question is flat, do you figure it would be noticeable? The carpet/pad are on the thicker side of things, so I may be able to get away with it.
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Mar 27, 2017 18:03
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Hmm, right. Maybe. Can you get the carpet up and down cleanly?
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Mar 27, 2017 18:14
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Oh I have no idea. I'm going to get home and pull on it and see what happens (giggity). A homeowning-competent buddy of mine figures it's just tack and shouldn't put up a fight. We'll see.
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Mar 27, 2017 18:16
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Just do small sections at a time. If you pull too much carpet off the tack at once, you might end up needing a stretcher to put it back on nicely.
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Mar 27, 2017 18:55
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I'm trying to save an almost dead fern my grandmother almost killed by putting it in the bathroom with no light. I gave it some water and put it by the window to get a little sunlight, but is there anything else I can do for it?
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Mar 27, 2017 18:58
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My girlfriend got me a Seiko C359-5000 calculator watch for christmas, but the battery is dead. I had some trouble opening up the battery cover since the gasket that seals it is completely toast, where can I get a replacement/do I need a replacement? I don't plan on wearing it swimming or in the shower or anything, and if I'm outside when it's wet it'll likely still be up my sleeve.
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Mar 27, 2017 20:49
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A Real Happy Camper posted:My girlfriend got me a Seiko C359-5000 calculator watch for christmas, but the battery is dead. I had some trouble opening up the battery cover since the gasket that seals it is completely toast, where can I get a replacement/do I need a replacement? I don't plan on wearing it swimming or in the shower or anything, and if I'm outside when it's wet it'll likely still be up my sleeve. I'd look up a local watch repair shop and see if it's something they can service affordably. Otherwise you may need to track down the gasket online; I suspect there are lots of specialty sites for vintage Seikos. I'd definitely replace the gasket.
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Mar 28, 2017 02:22
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Slugworth posted:Just do small sections at a time. If you pull too much carpet off the tack at once, you might end up needing a stretcher to put it back on nicely. Next thing you know he'll need a knee replacement, then maybe a hip replacement, it's a slippery slope.
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Mar 28, 2017 03:56
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Mr. Mambold posted:Next thing you know he'll need a knee replacement, then maybe a hip replacement, it's a slippery slope.
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Mar 28, 2017 13:01
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Anybody know any cheap-ish fixes for a slick, steep, muddy hellhole of a driveway? 
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Mar 28, 2017 17:23
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Otis Reddit posted:Anybody know any cheap-ish fixes for a slick, steep, muddy hellhole of a driveway? railroad ties/landscaping timbers and gravel
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Mar 28, 2017 18:26
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And a winch-point at the top 
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Mar 28, 2017 18:39
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Otis Reddit posted:Anybody know any cheap-ish fixes for a slick, steep, muddy hellhole of a driveway? Put down new, bigger gravel?
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Mar 28, 2017 21:31
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Is there any way to get this hinge off this steel door frame without removing the frame or cutting it off? If not, it'll just get cut off. 
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Mar 29, 2017 00:37
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Installed my bathroom vanity today, but looking for advice on how to tidy up the end result. I'm left with about a 1/2 inch gap between the vanity/sink and the wall because of the baseboards, which I cannot cut into. The vanity is mounted firmly to the wall through a 1x4, and I'm planning to add matching trim pieces to the sides of the vanity to cover the gaps there, but I'm perplexed as to how to finish off this lovely, tiny 1 inch "backsplash" without it looking like complete crap from the sides. 
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Mar 29, 2017 05:28
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meet girls at the store posted:which I cannot cut into.
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Mar 29, 2017 07:15
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porkface posted:Please go into more detail on this part. Well, okay, yes, it is technically possible to cut into the baseboards. This whole thing is a quasi-temporary solution that will only be in place for a year or two until we can remodel all of the other bathroom fixtures all at once and replace this with a nicer, larger standalone vanity with legs, so I'd like to avoid cutting up the baseboard just to replace it in the relatively near future.
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Mar 29, 2017 07:32
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meet girls at the store posted:Well, okay, yes, it is technically possible to cut into the baseboards. This whole thing is a quasi-temporary solution that will only be in place for a year or two until we can remodel all of the other bathroom fixtures all at once and replace this with a nicer, larger standalone vanity with legs, so I'd like to avoid cutting up the baseboard just to replace it in the relatively near future. A year or two can turn into 3 or 7 years in a flash. A nicer, larger standalone vanity might entail cutting more of the baseboard than you'd be cutting for the quasi-temporary vanity (or not, depending on how you do the backsplash). Either way, baseboard is pretty easy to replace. Might reconsider cutting it now.
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Mar 29, 2017 09:05
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