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I'm glad you got a bit of closure and thanks for not making up a STDH.
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Mar 29, 2017 03:50
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If you only have liability insurance won't pay anything, including the storage it's accruing at the impound. Get it out ASAP.
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Mar 29, 2017 03:50
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Butt Reactor posted:
Whether to fix it or dump it is a matter of what it's worth to your mom. Does she want to keep it? If this serves as an impetus to get herself something new that she really needed anyway, then so much the better. You're certainly not going to find anything better for $500, anyway. If that's her car budget, you're better off with the known quantity.
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Mar 29, 2017 03:55
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UPDATE: Car found, but currently undriveable 
)and a couple other items more valuable to meth-heads were gone. Currently waiting on the car to go from impound to salvage for insurance to decide what to do with it, which raises a few questions:
), but we're just glad she got some of her stuff back.
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big crush on Chad OMG posted:If you only have liability insurance won't pay anything, including the storage it's accruing at the impound. Get it out ASAP. This times 100 get it insurance ain't paying you poo poo and now you owe money. I wish you the best but if you are asking whether to fix or not yes unless you have 3-5k for a decent car fix the civic for your mom. Go to pick and pulls or eBay you can fix most things on a civic dirt cheap. She has liability why are you waiting on insurance liablility insures other people not you.
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Mar 29, 2017 03:56
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Butt Reactor posted:-Think insurance is going to total the car, or actually bother spending the $500 the car is literally worth to fix it? Liability only means she only had coverage if she hit someone else, and only for the other party's damages/injuries. She's not covered for this, or really anything else outside of, well, her own financial liability if she hit someone. It'll cost less than that to fix it if you DIY (you can get the replacement lock cylinder rekeyed to match the existing keys by any competent locksmith), and if it's otherwise in good shape, there's no reason not to fix it. Check into how much comprehensive costs - that covers theft, weather, "acts of god", vandalism, etc - you'll likely find it's cheap enough to put on anything that's worth more at least $500 (a late 90s Civic is still worth a couple of thousand if it's in decent shape). I know hindsight is 20/20, but it's something to keep in mind for the future. I learned this lesson the hard way myself after having a car stolen. Also, at this point, you may wind up owing a lot of money to the impound lot. Depending how much is owed, you and her may need to evaluate if it's worth getting it back, or walking away (some cities don't let you do this anymore, and still send you a bill after they sell it for  ).e: if insurance didn't laugh, tell you to pound sand, and slam the phone when contacted about this, then it sounds like she may have comprehensive on it as well, as my regional manager pointed out below. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 04:02 on Mar 29, 2017 |
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Mar 29, 2017 03:57
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Liability only, no collision and no comprehensive? Why are they even bothering to make the claim with you and take it to salvage? Ordinarily they would give you nothing.
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Mar 29, 2017 03:58
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My brother's truck got stolen by a runaway teenager who drove it north and made it to Joplin before running out of gas and abandoning it. The police found it the next morning and called him. He dropped everything and went straight there to pick it up but it had been towed and the impound lot told him no pickups after noon, made him wait until the next morning and then hit him with a couple hundred bucks in overnight storage fees. Bastards. Doesn't beat my other brother getting in a wreck two blocks from the autoshop/tow yard. He had just dumped the owners daughter and that little tow cost $900.
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Mar 29, 2017 04:07
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Yu-Gi-Ho! posted:e: if insurance didn't laugh, tell you to pound sand, and slam the phone when contacted about this, then it sounds like she may have comprehensive on it as well, as my regional manager pointed out below. Michael Scott posted:Liability only, no collision and no comprehensive? Why are they even bothering to make the claim with you and take it to salvage? Ordinarily they would give you nothing. Yeah I might be wrong about the insurance thing. I only remember her switching something on the policy because I used to be on her policy with my car, but then I grew up and got my own policy. As much as I know she's not paying any impound fees and insurance is towing the car to the other salvage lot. As for fix vs replace, considering the fact that she doesn't want car payments or inheriting someone else's problem child if we buy used, means that I'll be watching closely what the insurance drones decide in the next couple days.
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Mar 29, 2017 04:18
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Deteriorata posted:To some extent. Greater unsprung mass will wonkify your turning, though. Can you explain how bigger wheels changes this? If we're talking about the same overall diameter of tires, unsprung weight has more to do with wheel weight/not getting crappy chinese poo poo than wheel diameter/tire choice.
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Mar 29, 2017 04:18
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Even when controlling for good wheels versus lovely heavy ones and an equal overall diameter, aren't most larger diameter wheels heavier than smaller diameter wheels? You're going to gain some rotational inertia anyway by moving the mass further from the center of the wheel, but that should only impact acceleration.
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Mar 29, 2017 04:27
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Hey guys I just replaced my car with a used 2006 Cobalt and the front speakers have no radio coming from them, I'm not great with cars but my Google searches haven't turned up anything really helpful in the way of troubleshooting so see if it's the speakers, wiring, a fuse, or some other thing that could have broken. What would you guys suggest looking at first preferably without tearing the doors apart because that's a lot of 
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Mar 29, 2017 04:34
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Len posted:Hey guys I just replaced my car with a used 2006 Cobalt and the front speakers have no radio coming from them, I'm not great with cars but my Google searches haven't turned up anything really helpful in the way of troubleshooting so see if it's the speakers, wiring, a fuse, or some other thing that could have broken. What would you guys suggest looking at first preferably without tearing the doors apart because that's a lot of Sorry but that's gonna be step one really. You can test the speakers by applying some D.C. Voltage across them and seeing if they actuate (google actual procedure here first please). Or if you had extra speaker cable you could run a patch from a rear speaker to the fronts. Chances are the speakers are just dead and need replacement, but it would be silly to not test first. Getting some proper trim tools to remove the door panels will make the job a hell of a lot easier, and they're not too expensive.
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Mar 29, 2017 04:45
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Motronic posted:Can you explain how bigger wheels changes this? If we're talking about the same overall diameter of tires, unsprung weight has more to do with wheel weight/not getting crappy chinese poo poo than wheel diameter/tire choice. What I have generally seen is that the combination of larger wheel and lower profile tires generally weighs more than a smaller wheel and larger profile tire. That may not be universally true, it's what I've seen. Or he meant "bigger" as wider, and a 7" deep wheel is going to weigh more than a 6" width one, plus you have more tire mass with the wider tire. The other thing is that larger wheels, even with lower profile tires, will tend to raise the car a bit - so if you're trying to lower it, you're going the wrong way. ETA: Car and Driver did a test on upsizing tires.  The larger the wheel, the heavier the wheel/tire combo is. 54 lbs for 19", 40 lb for 15" Deteriorata fucked around with this message at 04:57 on Mar 29, 2017 |
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Mar 29, 2017 04:49
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IOwnCalculus posted:You're going to gain some rotational inertia anyway by moving the mass further from the center of the wheel, but that should only impact acceleration. Uh, clearly moment of inertia would be higher about the steering axis too, thus impacting your ability to turn the steering wheel. Checkmate. The issue with tall cars is that the body tends to roll more in corners, resulting in more asymmetric suspension travel than a short car. Wheel mass/diameter would make almost no difference there.
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Mar 29, 2017 08:21
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If there is liability only on the car (e: beaten to death)
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Mar 29, 2017 14:06
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Stupid question but: What practical ways are there to improve the emissions of a classic car by means of retrofitting / modifying? If there is a modern solution that will reduce harmful emissions, it'd be interesting to know.
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Mar 29, 2017 14:35
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MrOnBicycle posted:Stupid question but: You can certainly retrofit a catalytic converter. You could add a charcoal canister/breather to the fuel tank to reduce VOC emissions. Adding fuel injection and better spark control gives you better combustion generally. Many modern engines are based on very old ones, so it's a matter of how much you want to spend and modify to bring the old up to date.
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Mar 29, 2017 14:46
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MrOnBicycle posted:Stupid question but: Do what they did in the 60s and 70s. Detune the motor, add a PCV, EGR, catalytic converter, air injection and a sealed fuel system. Depending on the car, all that stuff might be available from later year motors, but ugh. There are also fuel additives that are supposed to help. I would think switching from points/carb to electronic fuel injection would help a lot.
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Mar 29, 2017 14:55
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Does it still run on leaded petrol? If so, getting hardened valve seats and running it on unleaded will save a lot of brain damage.
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Mar 29, 2017 14:58
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Deteriorata posted:You can certainly retrofit a catalytic converter. You could add a charcoal canister/breather to the fuel tank to reduce VOC emissions. True fact: without cats, EGR, or AIR, the 2000 LS1 in my C10 actually puts out slightly *more* emissions on the AZ test than a tired 350 with a Quadrajet and HEI. Of course, the sniffer wasn't counting the copious amounts of blowby as "emission" 
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Mar 29, 2017 19:17
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Deteriorata posted:You can certainly retrofit a catalytic converter. You could add a charcoal canister/breather to the fuel tank to reduce VOC emissions. joat mon posted:Do what they did in the 60s and 70s. Detune the motor, add a PCV, EGR, catalytic converter, air injection and a sealed fuel system. I read that catalytic converters don't mix well with carbs due to the small band of air fuel ratio needed. Or that's just people exaggerating? I'll look into the later year motors (didn't think about that) and fuel injection. spog posted:Does it still run on leaded petrol? I don't actually have a car that needs it, but will probably have an older car in the near-ish future. I don't really care about the CO2 emissions, because compared to a new car it's already better off from being old. I'm more concerned with the local pollutants if I'm going to use it a lot. I probably won't mind spending a bit just to clean it up. Especially since I'm likely to drive in the city. I'll probably get a car from the mid 80's, so it'll probably have some emission reducing stuff on it from factory.
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Mar 29, 2017 21:27
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MrOnBicycle posted:I read that catalytic converters don't mix well with carbs due to the small band of air fuel ratio needed. Or that's just people exaggerating? There were loads of cars with cats and carbs at the same time, so it's more likely people mistaking the leaded/unleaded fuel issue. If/when I ever do longtubes on my C10, I might throw some high-flow cats in it just because.
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Mar 29, 2017 21:51
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spog posted:Does it still run on leaded petrol? Surely there's nowhere you can still buy leaded petrol or lead additives. Surely.
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Mar 29, 2017 22:29
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MrOnBicycle posted:I'll probably get a car from the mid 80's, so it'll probably have some emission reducing stuff on it from factory. May have some? Everything from that time is going to have cats and a sealed fuel system at a minimum. In good repair many are likely to be drat near the same as an average car from the 90s/early 2000s.
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Mar 29, 2017 22:34
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It doesn't contain lead, but a few companies make fuel additives that perform the same functions. The real question for me is why the gently caress do parts stores keep them on the shelf.
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Mar 29, 2017 22:34
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MrOnBicycle posted:I'll probably get a car from the mid 80's, so it'll probably have some emission reducing stuff on it from factory. Better than even chance that it'll have all that stuff, including EFI.
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Mar 29, 2017 23:09
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Convert it to propane.
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Mar 29, 2017 23:33
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Len posted:Hey guys I just replaced my car with a used 2006 Cobalt and the front speakers have no radio coming from them, I'm not great with cars but my Google searches haven't turned up anything really helpful in the way of troubleshooting so see if it's the speakers, wiring, a fuse, or some other thing that could have broken. What would you guys suggest looking at first preferably without tearing the doors apart because that's a lot of Have you checked to see if there actually are any speakers behind the grilles? Pretty common used car gotcha, usually it's some PO blew the factory ones, changed them out for some sweet alpines and then wanted to keep them when selling the car. Easy way to test the speakers if they're actually there is to run a speaker wire from the poles of the speaker and then touching them to a 9v battery, usually won't damage anything and they just make a clicky noise if they work. If the speakers are plugged in and seemingly work, the problem is the wiring. Start out behind the head unit and clean up eventual PO fuckery (ie solder and heatshrink twist and taped crap, verify that the proper connections are made). Then work from there on towards the speakers. Also have you checked if the head unit has a fader setting? That can be set so that audio only comes out the rear speakers.
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Mar 29, 2017 23:37
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Memento posted:Surely there's nowhere you can still buy leaded petrol or lead additives. *at a reasonable price *without being some snake oil additive
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Mar 29, 2017 23:56
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Uh lead replacement is definitely a thing for old engines where the valves go to poo poo without leaded gas.
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Mar 30, 2017 01:52
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PainterofCrap posted:Convert it to propane. Steam power
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Mar 30, 2017 01:53
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IOwnCalculus posted:There were loads of cars with cats and carbs at the same time, so it's more likely people mistaking the leaded/unleaded fuel issue. I bet it won't smell right if you do 
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Mar 30, 2017 02:42
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Cached Money posted:Uh lead replacement is definitely a thing for old engines where the valves go to poo poo without leaded gas. It's a problem that's usually overstated.
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Mar 30, 2017 03:10
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Raluek posted:I bet it won't smell right if you do Honestly it gives me a bit of a headache when stopped in traffic. My tolerance for hydrocarbon loaded exhaust is not what it once was. Godholio posted:It's a problem that's usually overstated. Ehh, something like 40k of driving without leaded additive completely trashed the original heads on my 350. Hardened valve seats are definitely the better answer than lead substitute.
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Mar 30, 2017 03:44
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Cached Money posted:Uh lead replacement is definitely a thing for old engines where the valves go to poo poo without leaded gas. Yeah but we're talking lead replacement, right? My concern is that there are parts of the world where you can still somehow put actual lead (Pb, Z = 82) into your car to turn into emissions and give kids brain damage.
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Mar 30, 2017 04:10
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Memento posted:Yeah but we're talking lead replacement, right? My concern is that there are parts of the world where you can still somehow put actual lead (Pb, Z = 82) into your car to turn into emissions and give kids brain damage. A lot of avgas is still leaded, so all those private planes are spewing lead everywhere. There are only a handful of countries that still allow it as a motor fuel.
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Mar 30, 2017 04:12
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IOwnCalculus posted:
Despite 10+ years on some 60s cars forums, you are the only credible person I've ever heard who claims to have a street SBC's valve seats smoked by lack of lead lubrication. It's usually traceable to loose valve lash that lets the valves slam home early/faster than usual, or loose valve guides that let the valves round off the edges and weaken the area due to poor heat transfer, something like that. Edit: And most lead substitutes that I've seen (I'll admit I don't bother looking these days) are supposed to be octane boosters rather than lubricants. People need to read the labels, at least, so they know what they're supposed to be getting.
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Mar 30, 2017 04:41
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Either of those are at least possible. The heads had last come off around ~100k / 1990ish when the phenolic cam gear took a poo poo, and my dad did have them reworked at the time. Being at least somewhat broke he didn't do hardened seats. It's certainly a possibility that the reworked heads weren't really up to the task. When I pulled them off at something around 140k (maybe 130k?) in 2002, they were worn down to the point it wasn't worth the machine shop's time to rebuild them.
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Mar 30, 2017 04:45
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Motronic posted:May have some? Everything from that time is going to have cats and a sealed fuel system at a minimum. In good repair many are likely to be drat near the same as an average car from the 90s/early 2000s. Ah yes of course. I think I was a bit too tired when I wrote that. No reason to "feel bad" for driving an older car then really.
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Mar 30, 2017 06:13
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Deteriorata posted:A lot of avgas is still leaded, so all those private planes are spewing lead everywhere. There are only a handful of countries that still allow it as a motor fuel. Chemtrails are real after all!
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Mar 30, 2017 12:11
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