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POE switches are the only way to fly these days. If you decide later to install security cameras, baby monitor, voip phones, etc, it's all ready to rock, no $5 burn-your-house-down injectors needed.
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# ? Mar 28, 2017 16:02 |
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# ? May 23, 2024 15:46 |
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emocrat posted:This is a cool write up, but you should know that the setup he did there is way more intense (and expensive) than you likely need. Meaning, don't get put off by his reported cost or the more complex looking stuff. Unify setup in my house dead simple I spent a total of like $250. echoing this. Troy hunt is a solid pro and thats way overkill unless you are a IT guy with a wifi fetish
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# ? Mar 28, 2017 18:40 |
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As an IT guy, I personal hate wifi but have accepted it as a necessary evil.
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# ? Mar 28, 2017 19:17 |
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couldcareless posted:As an IT guy, I personal hate wifi but have accepted it as a necessary evil.
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# ? Mar 28, 2017 20:09 |
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couldcareless posted:As an IT guy, I personal hate wifi but have accepted it as a necessary evil. I mostly still do, but having ceiling mounted AP's that cover the entire house, I connect at 1000-1200mbps via wifi, and it's almost never an issue. I'll hardwire eventually still, but made it 6-7 months streaming 720p video over wifi without issue, running plex, etc.
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# ? Mar 29, 2017 03:29 |
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couldcareless posted:As an IT guy, I personal hate wifi but have accepted it as a necessary evil. Wired is always superior to wireless, any day of the week I'd recommend the 802.11ac Unifi Pro wireless access points over the lite. Been awhile since I looked at the spec sheets, but I believe they're 3x3 MIMO so they've got extra radios and can accommodate more clients simultaneously, which probably isn't a concern for the home user, but they're not that much more expensive so why not. I have two in my hundred year old lathe and plaster house, one for each story, and they're great, no more wireless issues. I also set up about twenty of them for my work while they occasionally wig out they've been pretty great overall. Lots of great supported functionality, couldn't be happier. The point about the POE switch is a great one, especially for security stuff like cameras, sensors, and smoke alarms. What's the plan for all that? Did you get that stuff built into the walls, or are you going to have to add it on later? E: vv They do all come with injectors, but if you're setting this up from scratch, what's another hundred bucks in between the cost of everything else? Injectors are clunky, and if you have a bunch of stuff it's a mess of wires and a separate power strip to accommodate them, etc. Catatron Prime fucked around with this message at 04:16 on Mar 29, 2017 |
# ? Mar 29, 2017 03:39 |
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It looks like the Unifi Pro also comes with a compatable PoE injector in the box if you didn't want to have to pony up and get a switch that has passive 48V built in.
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# ? Mar 29, 2017 04:08 |
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Very anecdotal but one of the technology podcasts I listen to seems to recommend the EERO mesh network for the consumer level as another possible option
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# ? Mar 29, 2017 13:25 |
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Passive PoE just seems like a good way to send 12-48v through a device that wasn't designed for it on accident, potentially frying the device.
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# ? Mar 29, 2017 17:05 |
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n0tqu1tesane posted:Passive PoE just seems like a good way to send 12-48v through a device that wasn't designed for it on accident, potentially frying the device. Since this has turned into wifi chat... The Ubiquiti AP's have switched to all using 802.3af/at (PoE and PoE+ respectively). Even the older UAP-AC-LITE use PoE now, UAP-AC-PRO always supported PoE, and the new UAP-AC-HD requires PoE+ (although it ran fine on my PoE switch). The new Ubiquiti 8 port switch only supports PoE/PoE+ now as well, no passive. So that's all good news.
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# ? Mar 29, 2017 17:15 |
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n0tqu1tesane posted:Passive PoE just seems like a good way to send 12-48v through a device that wasn't designed for it on accident, potentially frying the device. Shouldn't matter: http://electronics.stackexchange.com/questions/27756/why-are-ethernet-rj45-sockets-magnetically-coupled
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# ? Mar 30, 2017 00:23 |
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What is your bank? I want to avoid it like the plague.
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# ? Mar 30, 2017 04:50 |
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dreesemonkey posted:Very anecdotal but one of the technology podcasts I listen to seems to recommend the EERO mesh network for the consumer level as another possible option Eero sponsors all of those. It's not a recommendation, it's a paid endorsement.
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# ? Mar 30, 2017 10:53 |
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Potato Salad posted:What is your bank? I want to avoid it like the plague. Digital Federal Credit Union We've used them for a mortgage, and they've been great for that. I think construction is just something they don't do a lot of. The day we've all been waiting for... A bunch of boring doors are in too: Unfortunately, he put 3 of the doors swinging in the wrong direction. Just asked him to fix two of them, and not even a grumble, said he'd get it done. Garage floor being poured as I type.
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# ? Mar 30, 2017 13:06 |
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Cocoa Crispies posted:Eero sponsors all of those. It's not a recommendation, it's a paid endorsement. That is true they are a sponsor, but I still trust the source (TWIT) as he's tried most of the mesh networks (Plume, google wifi, etc) and generally very fair with honest reviews.
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# ? Mar 30, 2017 13:49 |
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Gounads posted:The day we've all been waiting for... I kind of wish I didn't know what it was because the casing just screams to me "door!" If I didn't know I wonder if I'd perceive it.
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# ? Mar 30, 2017 14:09 |
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xwing posted:I kind of wish I didn't know what it was because the casing just screams to me "door!" If I didn't know I wonder if I'd perceive it. I'm hoping it'll be less noticeable once it's all painted the same color.
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# ? Mar 30, 2017 15:59 |
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I've got a set of built-in bookshelves that uses the same casing around it as all the doors in the room, and it doesn't look out of place at all. Granted, the shelves are probably close to 3x as long as the ones Gounads has, but it shouldn't stand out at all once painted.
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# ? Mar 30, 2017 17:24 |
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n0tqu1tesane posted:I've got a set of built-in bookshelves that uses the same casing around it as all the doors in the room, and it doesn't look out of place at all. Have you tried opening it?
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# ? Mar 30, 2017 18:02 |
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Yeah I think how you dress up the wall around the false door is what will sell it more than anything. If it's the only thing there, and worse, there's just a switch next to it, it's pretty easy to distinguish.
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# ? Mar 30, 2017 18:13 |
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dreesemonkey posted:That is true they are a sponsor, but I still trust the source (TWIT) as he's tried most of the mesh networks (Plume, google wifi, etc) and generally very fair with honest reviews. Not to derail too hard, but if you can hardwire your access points, you'll run into a lot less interference and not eat up so many channels connecting access points to one another, especially if you're already in a crowded rf spectrum (which is only getting worse over time). Mesh is great for retrofitting old apartment buildings and stuff where it's drat near impossible to run new wire, but not at all what I'd recommend for a new build, or even an existing home. Even if you use mesh APs, you still need power, and low voltage poe plenum cabling is a lot easier to install than new household 120v AC wiring. So what's the plan for wireless access points, Gounads? You have any drops in the ceiling you can use to install them? How about home security sensor wiring, what did you wind up up deciding for that?
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# ? Mar 30, 2017 18:35 |
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I've got cat5 to all the bedrooms, living room, studio space, and downstairs playroom. So mesh isn't a requirement. There won't be much interference since there aren't many nearby houses. No cables in ceiling. Overall, it should be fine.
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# ? Mar 30, 2017 18:42 |
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And... electric company is ignoring all contact again. So no heat. So plaster STILL hasn't entirely dried. So we can't paint or put flooring in. Top that off with snow today. My confidence in being done in April is waning.
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# ? Mar 31, 2017 17:02 |
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Gounads posted:Have you tried opening it? Now that you mention it.... I don't think it would go well for the drywall on the other side of the wall.
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# ? Apr 1, 2017 22:18 |
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Gounads posted:I've got cat5 to all the bedrooms, living room, studio space, and downstairs playroom. So mesh isn't a requirement. There won't be much interference since there aren't many nearby houses. No cables in ceiling. Overall, it should be fine. Why not Cat6 or at the very least Cat5e? You need that for a reliable GigE network.
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# ? Apr 2, 2017 04:39 |
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flosofl posted:Why not Cat6 or at the very least Cat5e? You need that for a reliable GigE network. It is 5e. I don't think you can easily buy straight-up cat5 anymore. The strand going to the studio space is 6, no idea why since the length is well under 100m. Maybe something to do with going through unconditioned space. The electrician seemed to know what he was doing. Kept it away from electrical runs. All the bends had gradual radius with plastic guides.
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# ? Apr 2, 2017 15:34 |
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Gounads posted:It is 5e. I don't think you can easily buy straight-up cat5 anymore. Sweet. No idea about why the cat6 for just the studio, either (however if it's under 54m, you can do 10Gbit on it).
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# ? Apr 2, 2017 17:54 |
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Went over yesterday afternoon. Some plaster still isn't dry. I'm guessing because cold wet days outside + not opening windows to let moisture out. There is visible condensation here and there. It was nice outside so I opened every window and door for an hour to help air it out. Garage floor cement looks nice. Baseboard trim is nearly complete. Small puddle in basement. Looks like it seeped in where the water line comes through. It's really wet at the site and all the water from the driveway currently ends up against the house. There were foot deep tire ruts in the mud where someone must have gotten stuck. The stove place credited me $1200 because they didn't need all the chimney parts they ordered.
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# ? Apr 3, 2017 13:56 |
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What if anything is your plan for running water away from your foundation? Growing up, my mother and I double-dug rose bushes. Moved once a year or every two years, but we still did it because. Somewhere around the late 1980s/early 1990s, I'm removing rocky virginia soil with a mattock and *crack*, a popping sound that used to be a slitted pvc pipe installed for drainage. Didn't tell anyone, covered it back up, and to my memory that house always had a musty damp basement. Been particularly careful about drainage since. Potato Salad fucked around with this message at 19:55 on Apr 3, 2017 |
# ? Apr 3, 2017 19:52 |
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Concrete foundations really have a lot of moisture in them when new. A lot of problems with mold in houses and crappy indoor air have been traced to people (construction companies really) being too cheap and in too much of a hurry to wait and not drying it good and long enough. That short term thinking might lead to long term problems for the occupants.This is why we waited for 4+ months with the floor heating on and dehumifidiers running before installing any non-permeable layers over the concrete in places such as bathrooms. Our house company wanted us to move faster but that's the greed talking and we told them to wait until the meters said it was down to 80% humidity. This is also why it's super important to have the immediate area around the house foundation well drained. Infact the whole site should be built so the house is the highest point and the whole yard slightly slopes downwards from it. His Divine Shadow fucked around with this message at 07:14 on Apr 4, 2017 |
# ? Apr 4, 2017 07:12 |
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Potato Salad posted:What if anything is your plan for running water away from your foundation? There's a full perimeter drain around the base of the exterior basement that gravity drains to daylight. The gutters drain into a drywell.
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# ? Apr 4, 2017 14:17 |
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Composite decking arrived, this is called Spiced Rum and it looks great. Photo dump from yesterday:
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# ? Apr 6, 2017 12:34 |
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Thanks for the photos, been loving reading through this thread and following your progress.
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# ? Apr 6, 2017 16:23 |
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Gounads posted:
Does the foundation waterproofing have to be up to the ground level? I know from that earlier pic that there's some but those pics show moisture from the ground level making the above ground part wet
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# ? Apr 6, 2017 16:35 |
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Jusupov posted:Does the foundation waterproofing have to be up to the ground level? I know from that earlier pic that there's some but those pics show moisture from the ground level making the above ground part wet I don't think it's required above grade, usually there is something that is added, some sort of mortar board or vinyl (rolled) product, but that's usually just for looks. In other questions: Two furnaces? Or HE water heater? I see two sets of intake/exhaust pipes back there.
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# ? Apr 6, 2017 16:50 |
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MrEnigma posted:In other questions: Two furnaces, one for upstairs, one downstairs. Supposedly it's more efficient. I had never heard of that before. No idea on waterproofing, my current house has exposed concrete touching dirt.
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# ? Apr 6, 2017 17:03 |
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What do you guys think about cutting off the tops of the floor joists in the bathroom so I can sink the shower down two inches and install gravel around it?
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# ? Apr 6, 2017 18:20 |
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Gounads posted:What do you guys think about cutting off the tops of the floor joists in the bathroom so I can sink the shower down two inches and install gravel around it? I wouldnt do that or some fuckwit may dox you and report you to the fun police
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# ? Apr 6, 2017 18:25 |
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Gounads posted:What do you guys think about cutting off the tops of the floor joists in the bathroom so I can sink the shower down two inches and install gravel around it?
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# ? Apr 6, 2017 18:26 |
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# ? May 23, 2024 15:46 |
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Gounads posted:What do you guys think about cutting off the tops of the floor joists in the bathroom so I can sink the shower down two inches and install gravel around it?
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# ? Apr 6, 2017 18:37 |