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If you're anything like me, it's just a switch that flips when you get your keys. When I rented, I didn't give a poo poo about grass/lawns. But as soon as I signed those papers I was like, "I gotta do something about this grass!". It was like I all of a sudden turned into a dad.
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Apr 7, 2017 21:09
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My philosophy is to just cut the grass, throw down grass seed if there's some bare spots somewhere, and otherwise not really care on a ~1 acre lot. I don't get people who obsess with fertilizing and throwing down weed killer to get a uniform and ultimately pretty sterile monoculture yard. It's a big waste of time and resources. I like clover in my yard because bees are cool and good.
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Apr 7, 2017 21:20
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Don't own three dogs. As soon as you do you've lost.
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Apr 7, 2017 21:21
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EAT FASTER!!!!!! posted:Oh God I just opened a can of worms with regard to lawn care. This isn't thing I've got any experience with, we only have about a 1/5 acre lot, but I've never mowed it before or done any lawn care for a house I own. How do I enact lawncare? You don't have to care about it unless you've got an HOA that's going to fine you or something. Just run the mower over it whenever it gets kinda long and maybe get a cheap weed wacker for edges and against fences and stuff.
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Apr 7, 2017 21:40
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Mulch mow at the upper-end of the recommended height for your grass, this shade from the taller grass will reduce both weed growth and moisture loss. If you're really lazy/green, add in some clover to outcompete weeds and fertilize your lawn for you. It'll attract bees unless you get a non-flowering dwarf clover (Microclover).
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Apr 7, 2017 21:50
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Alereon posted:Mulch mow at the upper-end of the recommended height for your grass, this shade from the taller grass will reduce both weed growth and moisture loss. If you're really lazy/green, add in some clover to outcompete weeds and fertilize your lawn for you. It'll attract bees unless you get a non-flowering dwarf clover (Microclover). Bingo. Most grass keeps the majority of it's strength/energy in the first 3" or so, so if you only mow after your grass gets around 3", you'll help keep the grass healthy, strong, and weed resistant. Clover is kickass too. Only worry about fertilizing if you actually see a problem, or have taken a soil test. Pro-tip: Most state land-grant universities have soil testing kits for cheap that will give you N-P-K numbers. In PA Penn State Extension charges $9 Completely unrelated question: What's the deal with interior paints? I'm trying to figure out the real difference between something like Sherwin-Williams, which is like $60-70/gallon, or Behr or one of the other big-box brands, at ~$30-40/gallon for the "premium" stuff. I've painted many times before, but always for apartments or friends and such. So I'm OK with the methods, but my paint selection experience beyond "whatever is moderately cheap and looks ok" is lacking. I have an approximately 12x15' room with wood paneling that I'm turning into the nursery. I already primed over the paneling with Killz for...some reason. I know it helps to prime dark wood paneling. Now I'm just trying to figure out how to buy a good, durable paint that can withstand kid abuse and time.
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Apr 7, 2017 22:02
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EAT FASTER!!!!!! posted:Oh God I just opened a can of worms with regard to lawn care. This isn't thing I've got any experience with, we only have about a 1/5 acre lot, but I've never mowed it before or done any lawn care for a house I own. How do I enact lawncare? Where are you?
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Apr 7, 2017 22:20
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Hubis posted:Where are you? Iowa, so the grass really just started to green up with the rain in the last 2 weeks.
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Apr 7, 2017 22:31
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LogisticEarth posted:Bingo. Most grass keeps the majority of it's strength/energy in the first 3" or so, so if you only mow after your grass gets around 3", you'll help keep the grass healthy, strong, and weed resistant. Clover is kickass too. Only worry about fertilizing if you actually see a problem, or have taken a soil test. Pro-tip: Most state land-grant universities have soil testing kits for cheap that will give you N-P-K numbers. In PA Penn State Extension charges $9 I love using Sherwin Williams top of the line paint because it goes on easy and covers well in a single coat and they're pretty much always running some sort of sale usually 30% off
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Apr 7, 2017 22:36
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EAT FASTER!!!!!! posted:Oh God I just opened a can of worms with regard to lawn care. This isn't thing I've got any experience with, we only have about a 1/5 acre lot, but I've never mowed it before or done any lawn care for a house I own. How do I enact lawncare? $65/month keeps our small property maintained. Spent like $600 up front to go from me-height weeds everywhere to trimmed trees, bushes, no weeds, etc. Twice a month they come by and mow our tiny patch of grass and maintain the rest. LogisticEarth posted:Completely unrelated question: What's the deal with interior paints? I'm trying to figure out the real difference between something like Sherwin-Williams, which is like $60-70/gallon, or Behr or one of the other big-box brands, at ~$30-40/gallon for the "premium" stuff. I've painted many times before, but always for apartments or friends and such. So I'm OK with the methods, but my paint selection experience beyond "whatever is moderately cheap and looks ok" is lacking. We're happy with Valspar Reserve (~$45-50/gal) which is the top of the line for Valspar. It goes on fast and easy, largely in a single coat. Buy high quality brushes for brush work, you will thank me later. $12-15/brush for Wooster rather than $1-5 a brush for "bulk pack" crap. Same goes for your roller handle. We have a high quality Purdy one and a lovely normal one, the difference is night and day. You only have to buy this stuff once (besides the rollers themselves) if you maintain your brushes. If you're going to put down plastic, don't bother with the little individual packages, get the contractor roll that is at least a whole number of mil's. The ultra light stuff is just a pain in the rear end with which to work if you're a big oaf like me. H110Hawk fucked around with this message at 22:54 on Apr 7, 2017 |
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Apr 7, 2017 22:49
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Also learn to cut around corners trim etc by hand rather than relying on painter's tape. Will save a ton of time and money and it's not too hard once you've got the hang of it.
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Apr 7, 2017 23:21
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Most contractors I know buy straight from Sherwin Williams or Benjamin Moore stores because their paint goes on well after one coat and therefore saves on their labor. They've worked out well for me too fyi, but I've also had positive experiences with good Valspar paint from Home Depot too. Basically you get what you pay for
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Apr 7, 2017 23:30
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All I really remember about paint is that the Consumer Reports test showed the Behr ultimate stuff holding up as well as the higher-end ones did. I'm pretty sure their test was multiple coats though. I don't think I've ever heard of doing a single coat and having it turn out well in the long run.
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Apr 8, 2017 01:03
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EAT FASTER!!!!!! posted:How do I enact lawncare? The most important thing you can do is fertilize the grass. Mix some glyphosate with 2,4-D, add a dash of dish soap, dilute and spray  You can really go down the deep end into lawn care, but basically just don't cut it too short, make sure your mower has sharp blades by sharpening them once or twice a year, and if you want to aerate and fertilize in the spring, great. Also in the spring pull out dandelions and weeds with a tap root pulling weeder, fiskars makes a nice one and it's satisfying as gently caress to use.
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Apr 8, 2017 02:41
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I did most of our first floor with the spendy Benjamin Moore. Single coat and looks good.
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Apr 9, 2017 02:02
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Packing and moving is a special kind of hell for me. I've moved 4 times in the last 18 months, extremely happy to settle down for a bit
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Apr 10, 2017 00:41
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Alereon posted:Mulch mow at the upper-end of the recommended height for your grass, this shade from the taller grass will reduce both weed growth and moisture loss. If you're really lazy/green, add in some clover to outcompete weeds and fertilize your lawn for you. It'll attract bees unless you get a non-flowering dwarf clover (Microclover). My yard is adjacent to my neighbour's (no intervening fence). Does microclover stay where you put it?
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Apr 10, 2017 01:03
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Just mowed my lawn for the first time! Father in law got me an electric mower as a surprise present. I've never used one before, but it was really awesome. Just charged the battery, and it was good to go. For back patio summer eating, we just want to try a simple wooden picnic table. Does anyone know the best place to get one?
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Apr 10, 2017 02:04
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Drunk Tomato posted:Just mowed my lawn for the first time! Father in law got me an electric mower as a surprise present. I've never used one before, but it was really awesome. Just charged the battery, and it was good to go. Build one! It's a simple and fun project you can do with a circular saw, drill, and dimensional lumber. Add some paint, and you've got a nice picnic table.
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Apr 10, 2017 03:47
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Drunk Tomato posted:Just mowed my lawn for the first time! Father in law got me an electric mower as a surprise present. I've never used one before, but it was really awesome. Just charged the battery, and it was good to go. Craigslist??? Or ya build one super easy and fun
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Apr 10, 2017 03:50
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Patio talk: how the hell do I get rid of a pile of broken concrete? Last summer I tore out the lovely old patio and a strange sidewalk that went through the back yard to the ally. The massive chunks have been piled up in the corner of my yard where I moved them with truly herculean effort. Whoever did the patio did a lovely job prepping the ground and it had all sorts of huge cracks and grade issues. Almost all roll away dumpster companies seem to specify NO CONCRETE or couldn't handle the weight anyways. Loading a pick up truck sounds backbreaking, since I'd have to load, then unload, and pay dump fees or whatever. Plus numerous trips, since concrete is ungodly heavy and I tore out a lot. I also dont have a truck... I've seen some concrete dumpster on a company's site, but it's like $500. The kicker is that I have a bunch of wood and crap from a fence and trees I tore down, but the concrete people won't let you mix anything else, so I'll still be on the hook for another pricey roll off to clear out my yard.
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Apr 10, 2017 04:29
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Thesaurus posted:Patio talk: how the hell do I get rid of a pile of broken concrete? Does your neighborhood have single-can-hydraulic-truck-lift garbage collection? I've heard that basically anything that won't break the wheels off the can will disappear if you leave it out for collection. Like magic. It also helps to not be at the beginning of the route, so when the two foot section of flagpole with a yard of concrete for a footer comes out of the can, it hits garbage instead of the bare steel floor of the garbage truck. 
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Apr 10, 2017 05:17
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MrYenko posted:Does your neighborhood have single-can-hydraulic-truck-lift garbage collection? That's the one we have...I'm going to start giving this a shot, at least to cut down the pile. I had been scared off by the warning labels stating "no construction materials."
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Apr 10, 2017 06:33
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That seems like an awfully deliberate attempt to try and get people to not put concrete and rebar in their garbage cans. Maybe just hire the concrete remover that you already looked up? As you've learned, waste removal is hard and is priced in as part of the job when you pay someone to remove a fence or remove a patio or whatever
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Apr 10, 2017 08:07
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You can always call your local dump to see if they'll take it, then just post on craigslist saying that you'll pay for "a couple guys and a truck" to haul it out there... Usually it's paid for by weight (ton) at the dump too FYI.
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Apr 10, 2017 08:20
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FWIW my garbage collection service has the same "no construction materials" disclaimer, but has a separate line that says "construction materials of a reasonable volume resulting from renovations by the homeowner will be accepted as long as it complies with all other portions of this guide" type of thing. I'm not saying yours is the same, but it helps to read the fine print, sometimes.
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Apr 10, 2017 12:57
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I think ours has the same line, they still took my can full of sheet rock I ripped out. They also took some old aluminum gutters I left out as well, but only on bulky item pickup day.
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Apr 10, 2017 13:21
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Typically for concrete, rebar, wood, etc. small amounts are acceptable. They just don't want someone loading the can to overflowing with drywall, framing, concrete, etc. Generally, construction debris is OK to landfill. I'd look into craigslisting a "couple of guys and a landscaping dump truck".
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Apr 10, 2017 13:23
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That ^ or just put a couple chunks in the trash each week until it is gone. Depends on how big your pile is. It makes great erosion protection. Gabion Basket feature?
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Apr 10, 2017 14:15
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You would be surprised what you can get rid of in the Craigslist free section. A few years ago when we put in new carpet, I put the old carpet on CL free with pictures of the condition, stains, you pick up, etc, and had 20+ emails on a couple of hours. Saved me the disposal fees from the installers. Might be worth a shot if someone wants filler for erosion control or whatever.
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Apr 10, 2017 14:33
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Advertise it as "clean fill" and you'll probably be able to get someone to haul it away for free.
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Apr 10, 2017 15:17
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devmd01 posted:You would be surprised what you can get rid of in the Craigslist free section. A few years ago when we put in new carpet, I put the old carpet on CL free with pictures of the condition, stains, you pick up, etc, and had 20+ emails on a couple of hours. Saved me the disposal fees from the installers. Yeah, try this. "Used" concrete is sometimes used as fill under new concrete pours, for example.
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Apr 10, 2017 15:31
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Is there a goon recommendation for a cordless drill for various DIY house projects? The rest of the internets suggests Dewalt or Milwaulkee, although this list suggests Bosch. Most of that list also is the smaller 12v drills, and not the 18v ones. I get that they are lighter and cheaper, but should I get an 18v one just in case I do something that needs more power? Is it worth it to also get a dedicated driver?
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Apr 10, 2017 17:12
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Elysium posted:Is there a goon recommendation for a cordless drill for various DIY house projects? The rest of the internets suggests Dewalt or Milwaulkee, although this list suggests Bosch. Most of that list also is the smaller 12v drills, and not the 18v ones. I get that they are lighter and cheaper, but should I get an 18v one just in case I do something that needs more power? Is it worth it to also get a dedicated driver? I would get a 20V Dewalt one - and the driver has been almost useless to me as a homeowner, but I do use a hammer drill occasionally for concrete and steel so you might consider just buying a hammer drill in the first place. Something like this kit I guess (I haven't researched which 20V hammerdrill is best though) https://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-DCD98...0V+hammer+drill I have mostly Dewalt 18V XRP tools, but they are killing off the 18V line so they aren't worth buying.
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Apr 10, 2017 17:17
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Elysium posted:Is there a goon recommendation for a cordless drill for various DIY house projects? The rest of the internets suggests Dewalt or Milwaulkee, although this list suggests Bosch. Most of that list also is the smaller 12v drills, and not the 18v ones. I get that they are lighter and cheaper, but should I get an 18v one just in case I do something that needs more power? Is it worth it to also get a dedicated driver? I bought a Makita on sale from Amazon and while the bits that came with it have been trash, the drill itself is very nice.
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Apr 10, 2017 17:51
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Has anybody gotten their dirt floor crawl space encapsulated? I had an estimate done with a quote of $3,000-4,000 to cover 900sqft and that seemed pretty insane. Since all I care about is setting up a moisture barrier I was considering doing it myself with some plastic sheeting but I don't know if there's some other aspect to it that I'm missing.
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Apr 10, 2017 17:57
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Buca di Bepis posted:Has anybody gotten their dirt floor crawl space encapsulated? I had an estimate done with a quote of $3,000-4,000 to cover 900sqft and that seemed pretty insane. Since all I care about is setting up a moisture barrier I was considering doing it myself with some plastic sheeting but I don't know if there's some other aspect to it that I'm missing. Have you been into your crawlspace before? How much room to move is there? The ones I've been in have had maybe a couple of feet of clearance above my head, and I would really not relish the thought of trying to crawl around in one, on bare dirt and rocks, with just portable lamps for illumination, trying to maneuver a big, unwieldy sheet of plastic and a stapler. Some jobs are expensive not because they're complicated but just because they're really unpleasant to do.
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Apr 10, 2017 18:05
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Elysium posted:Is there a goon recommendation for a cordless drill for various DIY house projects? The rest of the internets suggests Dewalt or Milwaulkee, although this list suggests Bosch. Most of that list also is the smaller 12v drills, and not the 18v ones. I get that they are lighter and cheaper, but should I get an 18v one just in case I do something that needs more power? Is it worth it to also get a dedicated driver? How much do you do DIY stuff? We have the small Dewalt 7V hex shank driver and it is fine for nickel and dime stuff. Even doing a "lot" of drilling and driving around the house (think: several Ikea Hemnes units in a marathon session) we've never gone faster than the spare could charge. If/when I start doing stuff like hanging drywall in our garage I will definitely want a bigger one but for various chores it's been a champ for very little money.
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Apr 10, 2017 18:16
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H110Hawk posted:How much do you do DIY stuff? Nothing major in the works, mostly just hanging stuff around the house so far, putting up shelves, tv mount. I did take down some fence panels (which consisted of unscrewing a bunch of screws). I may be replacing the fence eventually.
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Apr 10, 2017 18:41
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Buca di Bepis posted:Has anybody gotten their dirt floor crawl space encapsulated? I had an estimate done with a quote of $3,000-4,000 to cover 900sqft and that seemed pretty insane. Since all I care about is setting up a moisture barrier I was considering doing it myself with some plastic sheeting but I don't know if there's some other aspect to it that I'm missing. $3000-4000 is pretty high, but not bonkers. I have an approximately 400sqft crawlspace, and was quoted about $2800 for a radon system, which also included the full part of the basement, fan, piping, etc. In my experience, about $1000-1500 of that price is probably encapsulation of the crawlspace, so for double the square footage, $3,000 isn't awful. That said, you could do it yourself, but it won't be fun.
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Apr 10, 2017 19:00
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