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I really should rig up a test indicator for my printer. Well, and get a set of precision shims. But yeesh. I'll try a few things tonight with slowing down the print and jamming a bit further into the bed. It may be time to scuff my ultem a bit too, maybe - it's been a few years. I swear, next printer I'm using a nice thick print bed with shim adjustability into it.
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Apr 10, 2017 20:29
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While it is not foolproof, the Tiko does do rather ok with its sort of textured rubber bed. As long as the auto calibration is done correctly, the prints that have enough surface raft always seem to stick to the bed rather well and having prints come off the bed are slim to none except for small prints that have a very small base to start with. I understand the use of heated beds for things like ABS and other materials, but why does nobody else seem to do a rubber textured surface as an option at least over something like glass/metal? Seems to make sticking and removing a piece of cake and one of the few things from the Tiko that seems to be really good. (Though a bitch to get working with other Slicers of course.)
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Apr 10, 2017 22:25
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Lulzbots come with PEI now.
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Apr 10, 2017 22:36
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I like my PEI, although the ABS I've been printing really likes to stick to it. Like, even if I let it cool completely, I have to really work to get the prints to separate, and the skirt often sticks to the point of needing to use the corner of a scraper to remove portions of it. I've also discovered that either the buildplate is warped, or the PEI/adhesive is warped. If I put a straightedge on the PEI, I can see light under it in spots, and the front right corner is low, but not consistently. 
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Apr 11, 2017 05:12
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How am I supposed to wire this thing for 12v? One positive one negative? Both positives and negatives? The middle pads run a trace up to the middle of the board, I presume for a surface mount thermistor
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Apr 11, 2017 14:49
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xVRny7qUN24
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Apr 11, 2017 14:58
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mewse posted:How am I supposed to wire this thing for 12v? Careful with these Chinese fakes. Love how the pins aren't even numbered.
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Apr 11, 2017 15:00
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Just pick the one you need from here and slap it on your printer when it arrives in two months: https://alirubber.en.alibaba.com/productgrouplist-220910761/Silicone_Heat_3D_Printer_Bed.html
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Apr 11, 2017 15:12
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So, software adjusted Z down a few tenths of a mm, turned the speed way down and so far so good, even with the 0.25mm nozzle. Woo! Going from a 10 hour print to a 16 hour one is funny though.
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Apr 11, 2017 15:14
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You guys aren't being very helpful!mewse posted:How am I supposed to wire this thing for 12v? Once you've got it figured out, remove the wire jumper if you used one and do the traditional solder-across-both-terminals thing if needed.
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Apr 11, 2017 15:30
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CapnBry posted:You guys aren't being very helpful! If you do this also check the resistance of your probe's by themselves and zero out the meter. Most meters don't read low resistance values particularly accurately, and the probe's alone could add an ohm or so.
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Apr 11, 2017 15:33
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Thanks guys, was thinking of getting a multimeter to check the potentiometer settings on my driver boards so now I have another reason to get one
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Apr 11, 2017 16:09
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CapnBry posted:You guys aren't being very helpful! I posted a Youtube video link that walks through how to wire that type of board up.
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Apr 11, 2017 16:19
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mewse posted:Thanks guys, was thinking of getting a multimeter to check the potentiometer settings on my driver boards so now I have another reason to get one Always be owning a 'meter. You only need a basic one and it will find a bunch of uses around the house/car/etc in time.
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Apr 11, 2017 17:01
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Yep. One of the most handy tools to have when you want to work on and fix things yourself. You would be surprised how easy it is to fix a ton of electronics that most people might just throw away rather than open up, use a meter, and have the absolute minimum of basic soldering skills to swap a part out. Also learning how to find what part you need on https://www.digikey.com helps as well once you identify said bad parts.
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Apr 11, 2017 17:14
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ReelBigLizard posted:Always be owning a 'meter. You only need a basic one and it will find a bunch of uses around the house/car/etc in time. I have something similar to this which was helpful checking the resistance of my heater. Most multi meters don't like going over 2 amps for more than a few seconds. https://hobbyking.com/en_us/hobbykingr-compact-30a-watt-meter-and-power-analyzer.html
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Apr 11, 2017 18:31
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I think my offsets are hosed up by I have no idea what to do. If I home the printer, the number on the screen is what the position is. It homes then parks at X20 Y 20 Z4, Which is correct, and what the screen shows. After it warms up it somehow resets XYZ to that position as the new 0, so it starts printing in midair. I tried looking at a guide for setting the offsets but it's confusing as gently caress. I have an option on the screen to Set Home Offset and it beeps and does something but I don't know what it actually does. (Markerfarm 8 with LCD) I am remembering quickly why I quit in frustration a year ago.
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Apr 12, 2017 23:45
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Did you change anything in the G code it puts at the start of a print? If something in there got altered or is not present it could easily do what you described.
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Apr 12, 2017 23:55
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torpedan posted:Did you change anything in the G code it puts at the start of a print? If something in there got altered or is not present it could easily do what you described. The only thing in there is G28. Did a test print with the gcode the Pegasus software comes with, same behavior. While it's still heating up, the axes values all reset to 0 from X20 Y20 Z4. The homing it does afterward seems to not actually do anything.
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Apr 13, 2017 00:25
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Looks like a G92 would zero out the coordinates like you are describing -- maybe inspect your g-code files for that?
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Apr 13, 2017 01:02
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mewse posted:Looks like a G92 would zero out the coordinates like you are describing -- maybe inspect your g-code files for that? G92 E0 is the only one. I don't know. This is the singular most frustrating thing I've ever done. No matter what I do it somehow keeps getting worse. I thought I was making progress when I got a heat relay in today so the bed took half the time to warm up. The only thing I can think to do at this point is nuke the firmware and EEPROM and try to follow the build instructions from scratch.
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Apr 13, 2017 02:35
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Maybe you have a "home offset" saved to eeprom along the lines of this article: https://airtripper.com/1799/marlin-firmware-home-offset-guide-using-g-code-m206/ Sorry for throwing out random suggestions e: looks like if you send M501 in console it will spit out whatever you have in EEPROM and if it shows M206 values that aren't zero then you'll have to go about clearing it and re-saving to eeprom mewse fucked around with this message at 02:50 on Apr 13, 2017 |
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Apr 13, 2017 02:44
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biracial bear for uncut posted:I posted a Youtube video link that walks through how to wire that type of board up. mewse: Did you get it hooked up yet? The mysteries of Chinese manufacturing need to be revealed!
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Apr 13, 2017 05:00
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PirateDentist posted:The only thing I can think to do at this point is nuke the firmware and EEPROM and try to follow the build instructions from scratch. I had similar behaviour after a firmware upgrade. Take a note of your esteps and z gap setting and then restore failsafe eeprom settings. That's what fixed it for me.
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Apr 13, 2017 06:54
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CapnBry posted:I did watch the video because I was curious how the correct installation would be performed but the video you linked is for a heated bed with the regular 3 pads. If you look at the bed in question, it has the same instructional markings from the video, but has 4 pads labeled + + - -, not 3 labeled 1 2 3 which is where the confusion comes from. I brought the heatbed to work today so a coworker and I could look at it with his multimeter. We discovered the + and - pads are actually bridged by the printed circuit:   In the second photo you can hopefully see a large trace between pads 1+2 and 5+6. As I mentioned in an earlier post, the middle two pads run up the middle of the board for a thermistor. Since the + and - pads are bridged, we couldn't find any difference in resistance no matter which pads we probed with the multimeter, they all read about 1.9 ohms. Probing the bridged pads with the continuity testing feature of the multimeter had it emitting a tone, so that confirmed they are electrically connected by those traces. My non-expert conclusion: seller from aliexpress lied about this heatbed being 24v capable. In the listing they wrote "Resistance between 5.0 and 5.4 ohm for the 24V" but I think that may have been copy+pasted from a mk3 heatbed description. It doesn't matter for me because I'm planning on using 12v - in the end I don't really have to even worry about which pads I solder to.
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Apr 13, 2017 15:21
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So I just want to say if anyone is printing models or similar stuff: the Bondo auto primer is amazing and will be your new best friend. The rusto is cheaper and works OK for larger things but if you're printing small detailed stuff like D&D miniatures or whatever the bondo goes on really thin and really smooth.
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Apr 14, 2017 01:29
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mewse posted:Since the + and - pads are bridged, we couldn't find any difference in resistance no matter which pads we probed with the multimeter, they all read about 1.9 ohms. Probing the bridged pads with the continuity testing feature of the multimeter had it emitting a tone, so that confirmed they are electrically connected by those traces. What I did on my ole i3 which had a heatbed that took forever to heat up was adjust the voltage on the 12V supply up to 14V using the little potentiometer by the outputs which boosts the power to the heaters by 16%. Everything else I had hooked up was fine with the higher voltage so it seemed like an easy way to get a little more oompf out of it. Just something to keep in mind later on if you find it heats too slowly.
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Apr 14, 2017 13:39
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El Estrago Bonito posted:So I just want to say if anyone is printing models or similar stuff: the Bondo auto primer is amazing and will be your new best friend. The rusto is cheaper and works OK for larger things but if you're printing small detailed stuff like D&D miniatures or whatever the bondo goes on really thin and really smooth. But use that Bondo outdoors! I thought it'd be enough if I had my patio door open to air out my apartment. It was not. Will not make that mistake again.
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Apr 15, 2017 01:59
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Revol posted:But use that Bondo outdoors! I thought it'd be enough if I had my patio door open to air out my apartment. It was not. Will not make that mistake again. Yeah no, never spray indoors without a spray booth. You can however build a decent spray booth for like ~25 bucks worth of poo poo from ACE so that's not hard. Also man did swapping my extruder gear make a huge difference. That's like night and day for a part that was less than ten bucks. You'd think now that Monoprice is clearly getting a custom version of the i3 with all kinds of revisions they'd just start throwing these gears into them because it drastically changes what the i3 is capable of.
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Apr 18, 2017 01:15
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I'm new to the game, I've been reading this thread for a while and poking around the internet about 3D printing. I have 11 years as a CNC machinist under my belt including programming so I figured I'd throw my hat into this ring - I'm sure there will be a printer in every shop eventually and I'd like to learn. I have my eye on the lulzbot mini right now on the recommendation of a friend who teaches a "Maker" class. He's used a few different printers over the years and really likes it. Anyone in here use that and what do you think? Also what 3D modeling program do people really like? I downloaded Autodesk Fusion 360 last night and it seems really powerful and easy to learn, I made this iPhone case from scratch after about 4 hours. 
Goo P-Nut Sack fucked around with this message at 12:53 on Apr 18, 2017 |
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Apr 18, 2017 12:48
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I use OpenSCAD for all the things I design myself, but I don't really do more complicated than Radio Shack style electronics enclosures.
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Apr 18, 2017 13:48
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Goo P-Nut Sack posted:I'm new to the game, I've been reading this thread for a while and poking around the internet about 3D printing. I have 11 years as a CNC machinist under my belt including programming so I figured I'd throw my hat into this ring - I'm sure there will be a printer in every shop eventually and I'd like to learn. I've heard that Lulzbot are decent printers as far as build quality and longevity go, but the caveats about how 3d printer technology is a couple generations behind industrial CNC machines (8-bit controllers and open-looped stepper systems that do not have any way to confirm positioning) have me thinking that for a first-time 3d printer owner you're either better off getting the Monoprice Maker Select Printer (any one of the printers in their line) or the Original Prusa MK2. The Monoprices are generally regarded as the best entry-level hobbyist printers to learn on before investing in a more expensive machine, and the Original Prusa MK2 is basically the hot new baby of 2017 after it's release last year and the reviews that came back were all "Holy poo poo, this redefines expectations for 3d printers at this price point!". You'll be a leg-up on understanding how the machine works depending on how familiar you are with the actual workings of CNC machine internals, but reliability-wise there are no hobby-level machines on the market that come anywhere close to the turnkey level of machine you're probably used to.
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Apr 18, 2017 14:16
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biracial bear for uncut posted:I've heard that Lulzbot are decent printers as far as build quality and longevity go, but the caveats about how 3d printer technology is a couple generations behind industrial CNC machines (8-bit controllers and open-looped stepper systems that do not have any way to confirm positioning) have me thinking that for a first-time 3d printer owner you're either better off getting the Monoprice Maker Select Printer (any one of the printers in their line) or the Original Prusa MK2. Yeah I don't have firsthand experience with lulzbot but they have a good reputation. With that lulzbot mini the build area seems limiting (150x150 rather than the standard 200x200) and I couldn't tell whether it has automatic bed leveling. I'd be looking at the prusa mk2 if I had that budget, but there is a wait list.
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Apr 18, 2017 14:46
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Goo P-Nut Sack posted:I'm new to the game, I've been reading this thread for a while and poking around the internet about 3D printing. I have 11 years as a CNC machinist under my belt including programming so I figured I'd throw my hat into this ring - I'm sure there will be a printer in every shop eventually and I'd like to learn. Hi fellow CNC dude. I like Fusion360 myself too for at home stuff. I'm still awaiting delivery of my printer so I don't have a slicer of choice yet to do the G--code. F360 works pretty well but if you do assemblies it gets weird. The mates aren't as intuitive as Solidworks.
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Apr 18, 2017 15:07
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mewse posted:Yeah I don't have firsthand experience with lulzbot but they have a good reputation. Shoot, for as small as that build area is I'd highly recommend dropping a mere $200 on a Monoprice Maker Select Mini and trying that out before moving up to big boy buck printers.
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Apr 18, 2017 15:17
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Ahoy fellow chipper! Thanks for the replies, I had looked at that Prusa the other day as well, maybe I'll throw that back in the decision bin. My aforementioned teacher friend had told me that he wasn't impressed with the Maker brand, but I'll definitely do more research. I work on everything between a Bridgeport from the 1950s to a $400k Mori Seiki twin turret lathe - I don't have super high expectations of the printer but I'd rather pay a little more if it means it's not junk. 
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Apr 18, 2017 15:49
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Goo P-Nut Sack posted:Ahoy fellow chipper! Thanks for the replies, I had looked at that Prusa the other day as well, maybe I'll throw that back in the decision bin. My aforementioned teacher friend had told me that he wasn't impressed with the Maker brand, but I'll definitely do more research. I'm a grinding shop guy, we've got a fancy Haas lathe, but everything else is super precision manual machines. I felt the Prusa was the first point that I was buying a machine to print, and not a machine to tinker with that might print. I have to tinker at work, I just want to print poo poo at home without putting much thought into it.
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Apr 18, 2017 15:59
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Goo P-Nut Sack posted:Ahoy fellow chipper! Thanks for the replies, I had looked at that Prusa the other day as well, maybe I'll throw that back in the decision bin. My aforementioned teacher friend had told me that he wasn't impressed with the Maker brand, but I'll definitely do more research. That's still an incredibly subjective point of view. Like, my Monoprice Maker Select V2 has been printing everything I've ever thrown at it without a hiccup. I think I could count on one hand the number of print failures I've had, and those were because I didn't have proper support settings in my slicer. The only caveat there is that when I got the Monoprice printer I had to adjust the bed so that it was properly trammed/leveled with the X-axis, and I occasionally check to make sure it hasn't drifted out of position (once a month, and that's with near-continuous printing), but I've read that if you do it improperly the first time you can warp the plate and make the printer useless. Supposedly the MK2 as an Assembled printer takes all of that fiddling out of the way for you and actually works as a reliable printer, and if it's damaged in shipping they either replace the printer or send you parts to swap out if you want to do that. The only "Maker" brands I know of are Makerbot and MakerGear. Makerbot is utter poo poo, full stop. MakerGear makes solid machines, but they may be outpaced by current manufacturers these days in terms of features.
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Apr 18, 2017 16:17
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biracial bear for uncut posted:That's still an incredibly subjective point of view. I apologize, he was referring to the MakerBot brand when he told me that. I was just confused. Realigning the bed would be no problem, although the self aligning beds seem nice. Also shout out to yooper, when I've got a +\-.0002 turn with a 4μ finish called you guys are our saviors!
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Apr 18, 2017 17:02
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Worth noting that the Monoprice printers are rebadges of the Wanhao Duplicator series
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Apr 18, 2017 17:07
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