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Can anyone point me in the direction and/or recommend a good hotair soldering station for small-ish home projects? I'm seeing some on Amazon for $80 but that just seems way too good to be true.
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Apr 15, 2017 15:16
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socketwrencher posted:Maybe something like this? http://www.homedepot.com/p/ClosetMaid-ShelfTrack-60-in-x-1-in-White-Standard-2808/100008932 Like exactly that except mine was tan colored or some poo poo. I cut it to length with a reciprocating saw fairly easily then just smooth down the cut edge with whatever.
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Apr 15, 2017 23:43
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Looking for a rug or something that is 5ft x 1ft 10inches. Is there any sort of online site who will cut and ship to you? This is for a closet to leave shoes, nothing fancy so the laminate doesn't get nasty.
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Apr 16, 2017 00:38
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lol internet. posted:Looking for a rug or something that is 5ft x 1ft 10inches. Is there any sort of online site who will cut and ship to you? This is for a closet to leave shoes, nothing fancy so the laminate doesn't get nasty. Find a carpet remnant store. They're everywhere. Rubber floor runner might be a better idea. Its like a dollar a foot at Ace and comes off a roll 3ft wide. You can cut it with scissors. 24" carpet tiles are also a thing you could stick down with double-sided tape. eddiewalker fucked around with this message at 01:34 on Apr 16, 2017 |
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Apr 16, 2017 01:24
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 Can I ignore this? Or will it rust away into oblivion if I don't repaint it? (it's holding up a corner of a trellis connected to my house)
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Apr 16, 2017 03:18
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n.. posted:
Wire brush it really well and hit it with por-15. Cover that with another paint to match if you need to and it should be good for a while.
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Apr 16, 2017 04:54
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knowonecanknow posted:Is there anything I can put on my security camera to keep spiders out? Their webs are super reflecting the IR back into the camera. Spray around the areas you don't want spiders in with Talstar or similar every 3 months or so.
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Apr 16, 2017 13:16
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Question a out sealing kitchen counter tops. I don't have quartz but a rather common stone counter top with what looks like a mix of rocks and random sparkles. Anyways, I noticed if water stays on the counter top long it sort of leaks in. I have a white counter top and it becomes a darker shade when it happens. I bought some sealant which comes in a spray bottle and for the most part it works. I am noticing it doesn't work too well around the sink which is constantly wet. Any suggestions or is this normal?
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Apr 19, 2017 07:16
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lol internet. posted:Question a out sealing kitchen counter tops. I don't have quartz but a rather common stone counter top with what looks like a mix of rocks and random sparkles. Pour epoxy on top! http://www.countertopepoxy.com/premium-clear-epoxy-for-countertops-bar-tops/
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Apr 19, 2017 13:49
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devicenull posted:Pour epoxy on top! http://www.countertopepoxy.com/premium-clear-epoxy-for-countertops-bar-tops/
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Apr 19, 2017 14:53
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My sump pump line just runs out the side of the house and then above ground. It's 1-1/2" or 2" corrugated black plastic HDPE pipe. I want to bury this line this spring, but I'm not sure what the appropriate materials would be and how the line should end. My yard slopes down gradually towards a big prairie, and the current hose runs from my house to there. Do I use 3" or 4" HDPE, or do I need to use PVC for the buried line? Perforated or not? Gravel in the trench? Dry well at the end?
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Apr 19, 2017 18:23
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I got a 3rd Gen Nest and I'm fairly certain I have the C wire but wanted to make sure before I burned my house down. Attached is a picture of the current setup on some Honeywell that uses batteries. Should I safely assume the blue wire is indeed the C wire? I can't see behind the furnace to where the wire goes to make sure it wasn't installed incorrectly.
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Apr 19, 2017 22:24
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Teabag Dome Scandal posted:I got a 3rd Gen Nest and I'm fairly certain I have the C wire but wanted to make sure before I burned my house down. Attached is a picture of the current setup on some Honeywell that uses batteries. Should I safely assume the blue wire is indeed the C wire? I can't see behind the furnace to where the wire goes to make sure it wasn't installed incorrectly. The Nest will do some self-checks in the early setup to make sure that each wire is what it says it is, but it's also entirely possible that your furnace installer/homeowner was a moron and connected the blue to some other spot instead of common, or not at all! So, why risk it? Why can't you see the area on the furnace where the wires are hooked up? If it's because you can't stick your head in there, use your cell phone with the flashlight on to take a video of the area with your outstretched hand/arm. Or, get a mirror and a flashlight. You really do need to see where those wires are hooked up on the furnace's circuit board and obviously the installer did need to see the circuit board at some point to install it! 
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Apr 19, 2017 22:31
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Teabag Dome Scandal posted:I got a 3rd Gen Nest and I'm fairly certain I have the C wire but wanted to make sure before I burned my house down. Attached is a picture of the current setup on some Honeywell that uses batteries. Should I safely assume the blue wire is indeed the C wire? I can't see behind the furnace to where the wire goes to make sure it wasn't installed incorrectly. Did you disconnect any of those wires from the thermostat, or where they like that? If not, then there's no way to really know without looking at the other end. Your old thermostat likely didn't need the C, so it's possible that they upgraded from an old round thermostat to that one, and didn't hookup the C when they installed it either. Thermostat wire is just a bunch of color coded wires bundled together, so there's necessity to use a specific wire for something, there's guidelines on what colors should be what, but if the installer doesn't care they can be whatever. I suppose, though, that if you really needed to check, you could put something like a small DC fan between the red and the blue and see if it works, but maybe that could cause a problem if it was two hots. You need to open the funace up and look at it.
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Apr 19, 2017 22:35
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Jerk McJerkface posted:you could put something like a small DC fan between the red and the blue and see if it works Don't do this, the common wire is 24volt AC Use a multimeter if you really can't see how it's hooked up on the furnace
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Apr 19, 2017 22:41
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n.. posted:Don't do this, the common wire is 24volt AC Do it like a phone line: lick it, hope it doesn't ring.
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Apr 19, 2017 23:10
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facialimpediment posted:The Nest will do some self-checks in the early setup to make sure that each wire is what it says it is, but it's also entirely possible that your furnace installer/homeowner was a moron and connected the blue to some other spot instead of common, or not at all! So, why risk it? I can see the wires going into the furnace but they're behind a panel that is less easy to access than the one below so I'm not sure if I should be poking around in there or not. Looking for a manual for mine which is a Bryant 80t Plus and also apparently installed upside down or at least all the labels are. There is a little window that lets me see the error LED on the control board. I think this furnace was the first installed in this house since it used to be electric but I don't know how long ago that was. No multimeter unfortunately. I don't think this is helpful but this is what I see. The thermostat wire enters from the left of the top of the picture. 
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Apr 19, 2017 23:15
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As far as I know it won't mess anything up if the wires are run to the wrong place, and since the common is expecting 24v AC anyway, I can't see the harm in hooking it up and seeing if it works. The nest will tell you if it doesn't get the expected voltage.
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Apr 20, 2017 00:19
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n.. posted:Don't do this, the common wire is 24volt AC Ah your right. Yes. Do not do that. I was screwing around but that typo is a killer.
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Apr 20, 2017 00:36
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C does not appear to be hooked up since I get an error when installed. Since the wire is there I'm going to look into what I need to do to do it myself. Thanks for the help!
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Apr 20, 2017 00:39
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Quick question about installing landscaping rocks/gravel: We bought a house last year and it's becoming ever more apparent that the previous owner didn't take good care of the landscaping. The house and the interior is great, but the yard sucks in comparison. It could be worse, but they really let a lot of the plants grow out of control. The main issue is that the area under the deck is overgrown by plants. Well, one plant specifically...it used to be part of the landscaping and has now gone nuts and taken over the entire space under the deck. They had put down weed block, but that seems to be it. Is it just as simple as putting down new weed block and then whatever rock we want? Or should we put down a layer of sand or small gravel first? Something to note is that it's on a slope. So the deck is about 12' wide: One side is about 2' off the ground, the other is about 8' off the ground. I'm probably exaggerating, but there is definitely a slope. Does this change anything? The only thing we know is an issue is that a gutter downspout drains under the deck, and it's cut quite a trench over the years, so we're going to get a downspout extension to route it somewhere safe. The only other concern we have is about erosion control...being that it's a slope, should we leave the plants be so they can hold the soil in place? Or will the rocks provide adequate erosion control?
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Apr 21, 2017 13:54
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When I ran my washing machine last night, dirty water backed up into the laundry room and kitchen sinks. Is it worth getting a snake from Lowe's to see if I can knock something loose, or should I just go ahead and call a plumber?
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Apr 21, 2017 15:01
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So now that I don't have a two story porch anymore on the back of my house. What do I put on the outside to prevent people from walking out the door and falling till we get a new deck put in? (they are in-swing doors)
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Apr 21, 2017 15:35
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If the doors swing inwards, why can't you bar them on the inside? Lock the door, put a sign on it, put something heavy in front of it, problem solved.
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Apr 21, 2017 15:45
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knowonecanknow posted:So now that I don't have a two story porch anymore on the back of my house. What do I put on the outside to prevent people from walking out the door and falling till we get a new deck put in? (they are in-swing doors) Plywood or a couple scrapes of lumber and a few screws on either end. Danger / assisted suicide sign.
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Apr 21, 2017 16:05
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Put a double cylinder deadbolt on there, lock it and hide the key.
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Apr 21, 2017 19:42
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I like the double cylinder deadbolt idea. but some wood on the inside would be easiest solution.
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Apr 21, 2017 20:45
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All the houses I've lived in with a door for a deck but no deck just had a bit of deck railing screwed to the outside of the door frame.
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Apr 21, 2017 20:57
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Depending on your door handles a bike lock may also do the trick short term.
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Apr 21, 2017 21:40
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DaveSauce posted:Quick question about installing landscaping rocks/gravel: My deck is in a similar situation but with a more shallow slope - 1' to 6', over about 18' of run. You will definitely want to make sure you have some erosion control. The root system from your crap plant is probably doing more than you realize right now. I'm sure gravel will help, but I'm not sure if that alone will be enough. In my case, the low end of the hill also ends right above a concrete patio, so I could watch how much dirt spilled out with every rainstorm. This was with a good mulch layer down. You may want to do some partial plant combination, and then gravel out the rest of it. Extending your downspout is the right idea, I buried mine and ran about 25' of it to get clear of the deck and into the lawn, where it discharges in the side of the hill. You may want to consider killing off that plant in stages, so you can at least partially re-plant behind it. Don't know your climate but we live in Wisconsin, and are using purple creeping thyme at the bottom of the slope, right over a small rock wall that lines the patio. This looks pretty nice, and has done a pretty incredible job at stopping runoff. Higher up in the full shade areas, we planted some Sweet Woodruff, which should eventually fill in the area as a low, gentle carpet. It is surviving in the full shade, but very slow spreading.
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Apr 22, 2017 00:53
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Flash Gordon Ramsay posted:Put a double cylinder deadbolt on there, lock it and hide the key.
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Apr 22, 2017 02:09
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I have a rain barrel on one of my downspouts that acts as a cistern when the rain is heavy because the drain is below-grade, is over 50 years old and is (was) just clay pipes. I want to get something that visually tells me when the barrel is full and I don't want to do anything too involved. For reference, thid is exactly what I have: http://www.seattle.gov/parks/about-us/do-business-with-us/supplies-for-sale
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Apr 22, 2017 19:53
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HEY NONG MAN posted:I have a rain barrel on one of my downspouts that acts as a cistern when the rain is heavy because the drain is below-grade, is over 50 years old and is (was) just clay pipes. If there's room you could put a stick with a float on the bottom that will rise out of the opening as it fills. Or drill a hole and put a grommet so it slides smoothly.
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Apr 22, 2017 19:56
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So I bought a used portable washing machine. It's a Haier, and it's one year old. It won't transition from the drain cycle to the spin cycle. You can hear the pump making wet noises forever, and then it times out with a 'LD' error code (which isn't listed in the manual, but Google tells me either means 'long drain', or a 'lid error'). I have the drain hose hung at the height indicated in the manual, but when it was stuck, we tried just putting the entire drain hose lower than the washer, and a bit more water came out, but not all of it. The physics of the drain pipe are baffling me. The hose comes out of the machine near the floor, but then the water has to travel up before going back down again? Why? Any other advice, or things I should be trying?
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Apr 24, 2017 16:16
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Your drain hose needs to loop up over the top of the tub, if not it will syphon and drain out all the water.
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Apr 24, 2017 21:59
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The top of the loop is higher than the tub of the washer, and I'm within the height requirements for the standpipe. Just for fun, I disconnected the drain pipe off the side of the washer and there's still a lot of water inside it. I've read about pump filters - does anyone have experience cleaning those, or even just accessing them? I just called the Manufacturer and was walked through the same troubleshooting steps that are in the manual. Thanks, Haier!
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Apr 24, 2017 23:03
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I'm sorry this is super dumb, but did you clean the lint trap? I also have a portable Haier washer, and disconnecting the lint trap means using so much force you think you're breaking things, so it's easy to overlook.
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Apr 25, 2017 00:22
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i like nice words
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It's a great question! Both lint traps are empty and clean. I'm hoping I'm just missing something super easy here. The washer came from a friend who has been using it without fault for six months. Unless something happened during transport (is it bad to move a washer on its side?), I'm thinking I just have it set up incorrectly. I've now taken the back panel off to have a look at the pump, and I don't see anything that looks like a filter on it, but I might take it off and see if it's obstructed in some way. Trouble with this theory, is that the pump does drain the water to a level lower than the clothes basket. Maybe there's a bad water sensor? The available info on this washer is abysmal  Edit: It's working now. I just had to move the washer away from the standpipe, so it doesn't have such a steep angle to pump water up. DavidAlltheTime fucked around with this message at 15:28 on Apr 25, 2017 |
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Apr 25, 2017 00:37
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OK, so I have overflowing, clogged gutters. They're way high up and I can't safely reach them...our house is on a slope and even if I can reach the highest part of the roof with a ladder, a) I'm not comfortable that high up and b) it's on a slope so the ladder wouldn't be safe anyhow. Will a long plumber snake work to go from the bottom up? I tried electrical fish tape but either it wasn't long enough, or I couldn't manage to wiggle it past the elbows near the top. Will I have better luck with a plumbing snake? I 'd worry about it getting too "floppy" that high up. Or should I just call someone? edit: one of my hesitations would be getting caught up on all the sheet metal screws holding the gutters together. DaveSauce fucked around with this message at 02:03 on Apr 25, 2017 |
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Apr 25, 2017 01:59
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DaveSauce posted:OK, so I have overflowing, clogged gutters. They're way high up and I can't safely reach them...our house is on a slope and even if I can reach the highest part of the roof with a ladder, a) I'm not comfortable that high up and b) it's on a slope so the ladder wouldn't be safe anyhow. How high up are the gutters we are talking about? Because something like this might help you https://www.amazon.com/Guttermaster-Classic-Telescopic-Waterflow-12-Feet/dp/B00JVNHS98 Telescoping, hook shaped hose attachment to blow the poo poo out of your gutters. Doesn't need a pressure washer.
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Apr 25, 2017 04:06
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