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Good Lord. No, that particular error doesn't really "just happen," that's...next level loving up. I'm amazed it "cut" at all -- you were basically just friction-heating the material and shoving it aside. Maybe get a friend who's a machinist to come by and give you a tutorial, or take an intro class at your community college or something.
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Apr 14, 2017 13:13
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baquerd posted:Some cool 1960's forging videos. I'm pretty disappointed that my engineering degree didn't come with a drafting table, slide rule, and narrow tie.  We purchased some Kennedy boxes and tooling off of a retired tool and die shop owner. Dude originally made punches for the Big 3 in Detroit. It was really interesting to hear him talk about how the industry went from totally manual with tons of highly skilled machinists to being all CNC with a couple of setup guys, programmers, and a few operators. He didn't lament the good old days, but more of a profound sense of wonder that so few can do so much and do it so (relatively) well. He had a great story about a woman coming into his machine shop in the mid 80's. It was near downtown Detroit and this woman was dressed in furs. She asked what they did there, and his reply was "Machine work, dies, screws, stuff like that." Her reply, "Oh that's great. I'm in the screw business too." He closed up shop shortly after.
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Apr 14, 2017 13:19
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Sagebrush posted:Good Lord. No, that particular error doesn't really "just happen," that's...next level loving up. I'm amazed it "cut" at all -- you were basically just friction-heating the material and shoving it aside. He learned something today didn't he? Lol. Playing with cheap tools and soft aluminum isn't going to irreparably gently caress anything up. But yeah, you're climbing a steep hill if you don't have someone you can work with to help you out, and this is but the first of many big no-no's you're going to learn about the hard way.
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Apr 14, 2017 13:26
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Been watching Alec Steele on YouTube recently... little bastard is 19 and achieves more in a day than I can in a week. He's also got that infectious British cheerfulness too, even after 12hrs of working the forge.
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Apr 14, 2017 13:35
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Mudfly posted:Jesus christ I had the mill running in reverse. I once drilled several 1/4" holes in a board, amazed at how hard and durable this magic wood must be to be resisting my drill bit so well, only realizing when I was done that the drill was reversed 
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Apr 14, 2017 14:19
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Flipped the switch and everything is working great.
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I have access to a surface grinder now. Any cool or useful poo poo I should knock out while I've got time on 'em? e: Mudfly posted:Jesus christ I had the mill running in reverse. lmao Silver linings: this was an exceedingly easy problem to fix AND it was the first time you've done it so nobody'll make fun of you too hard (unless you fail to learn and do it a second time). And because this is good knowledge to have regardless, my preferred vise-workholding setup technique is: -brush vise and parallels free of chips and crap, -slide parallels in from the side to push any crap you missed out so it doesn't make your part sit uneven, -push down on part while you initially close vise to get it seated as well as is possible, -with deadblow mallet in one hand and vise arm in the other, beat on the part repeatedly as you gradually tighten the vise until it's set. Most non-screwless vises will push the part off the parallels as they tighten so you gotta counter that tendency continually. Even the fancy Kurt vises with the special part that prevents this tendency still, in my (limited) experience, do it a little bit. When I do the continual-part-bludgeoning-while-tightening thing, the parallels are virtually always pushed tightly against the vise when I check afterwards. Ambrose Burnside fucked around with this message at 16:05 on Apr 14, 2017 |
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Apr 14, 2017 15:52
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Thanks, I will try this. Question: How can you cut thick steel pieces - say, 6" by 4" cross section - without a bandsaw, on the cheap? I have seen metal cutting blades for reciprocating saws, I figured these might work. I know my abrasive cut off saw doesn't like thick pieces. Would an angle grinder do it?
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Apr 14, 2017 16:06
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Large angle grinder with a good cutoff wheel is the way to go if there's no other way, but a horizontal bandsaw is way better, can't you get the pieces cut elsewhere?
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Apr 14, 2017 16:16
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this is my curriculum-mandated drill jig. there are many like it, but this one is mine  haven't pried it apart to get a shot of the internal components yet, but there are iirc 16 parts, 11 distinct? About half of em are turned, the other half milled; got to do lots of fun stuff like press-fits and heat-treating and surface-grinding and "christ please let everything fit together properly" also got to employ my blacksmith Dark Arts by rectifying a bunch of press-fit parts that other people undersized. "You can put the metal back on, in a manner of speaking", I intone with unearned smugness, flourishing a lovely ballpeen
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Apr 14, 2017 16:21
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Mudfly posted:Thanks, I will try this. Box section or solid bar? If it's box, you have a couple options. Tack weld some small bars around the perimeter where you want to cut the huge box, use this as a guide for your angle grinder equipped with a thin cutting disc. Or, use a hack saw; it will cut, but it won't be easy. If it's solid bar (first off, JFC where did you find it?) Then no, just go buy a decent bandsaw. Or take it to a fabrication shop and pay them to cut it.
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Apr 14, 2017 16:25
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For solid stock that big I wouldn't even try without a bandsaw, powersaw or abrasive chop-saw. It's technically-feasible with a large cutoff wheel freehand but I know I'd personally make a mess of it and likely explode like 10 wheels torquing the saw when the wheel's way down inside the cut. loving around with angle grinders like that is something to avoid whenever possible because it just isn't safe. If I were hellbent on doing something like that myself, I think I'd rig up a simple jig for the angle grinder, something that limits its axes of movement to just the one I want plus a stop for the stock so I can rotate it and come down on the same spot with the tool. Something hideous and cheap like clamping the grinder to a 2x4 arm on a hinge fastened to the same sheet of plywood the work is on.
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Apr 14, 2017 16:45
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You can also use a cutting tip on an oxyacetylene torch. e. It uses a LOT of oxygen but boy howdy is it pretty. If you don't have some kind of jig or machine to do it, you won't get a very neat cut, but if you're just chopping up stock to do further work with it might be an option. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Zy3g4-D1ZeA e. jesus god https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7R2JtlcOfBo Leperflesh fucked around with this message at 01:27 on Apr 15, 2017 |
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Apr 15, 2017 01:22
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Ambrose Burnside posted:this is my curriculum-mandated drill jig. there are many like it, but this one is mine That's a nice looking setup. But... wing nuts are hateful things.  I like swing clamps or Destacos. Simple projects for surface grinder, nice 1/2/3 blocks, parallels, tiny-thin parallels, square punches.
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Apr 15, 2017 02:08
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Ferremit posted:Been watching Alec Steele on YouTube recently... little bastard is 19 and achieves more in a day than I can in a week. He's also got that infectious British cheerfulness too, even after 12hrs of working the forge. When I first started thinking about getting into metalworking I hit up YouTube and his channel came up. His videos pushed me from wanting to do just some simple stuff with sheet metal and rivets to full blown blacksmithing.
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Apr 15, 2017 04:09
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CarForumPoster posted:This is a joke right? Cause gently caress that. Indexable carbide for life Oh yeah carbide all day in a production situation but when you take a plain HSS blank, tool around with a bench grinder for a while and then go take .300" deep cuts in steel with it you feel baller as hell
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Apr 15, 2017 05:39
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ate all the Oreos posted:I once drilled several 1/4" holes in a board, amazed at how hard and durable this magic wood must be to be resisting my drill bit so well, only realizing when I was done that the drill was reversed I admit that my emotional response to his post may be partially due to my attempt once to face a part with a fly cutter running backwards for two full CNC passes (0.050 and 0.010) -- in a polymer, fortunately, not metal. Standing there trying to figure out why the gently caress the material was just buzzing and shredding instead of hissing away cleanly like I was used to. Don't mix up M03 and M04, and pay close attention to the grind on your fly cutter's tool 
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Apr 15, 2017 08:00
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Ambrose Burnside posted:
This is come in handy when I wire a hole a couple thou too big in a fixture or something, except I usually just hammer a ball gage into the top of the hole to roll it in.
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Apr 15, 2017 12:47
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shame on an IGA posted:Oh yeah carbide all day in a production situation but when you take a plain HSS blank, tool around with a bench grinder for a while and then go take .300" deep cuts in steel with it you feel baller as hell Big-time. I ground my own general-purpose bits for school and it's rewarding as all out. I was doing lil bitty 30 thou cuts with mine at first and then the instructor wanders by, looks the tool over, pronounces it well-made, and says "you can work this a lot harder, you know" and fuckin' ploughs it into the piece way deeper and at like 3x the feed. I had to cover my eyes but he was right, it was fine, and I kept the big-rear end blued coiled chip it made for "this bit can make this without breaking a sweat" reference purposes. Where I'm working, we've got indexable carbide that gets reserved for the CNC lathe but HSS is there for students to abuse (my contract's at a different educational institution). They need to expand their existing tooling so I'm gonna be making dozens of threading/parting-off/specialty HSS bits, it looks like, which by extension means I'm gonna be making myself a nice full set of HSS tools at the same time  Yooper posted:That's a nice looking setup. But... wing nuts are hateful things. Ah, but the wing nuts were free, which is the most important thing. And yeah, I just picked up a lil toolmaker's vise for my lil Taig mill, but all the commercial parallels are goofy-long for the narrow jaws (and the cheap sets don't have many height increments under 1", which I need), so that's a pretty good idea. I was thinking of doing a steel tooling plate instead of that aluminum one I've been rolling around in my head for months, in part to take advantage of the surface grinder, but the Taig has an aluminum table and I've heard about bimetal corrosion cropping up there. Ambrose Burnside fucked around with this message at 18:41 on Apr 15, 2017 |
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Apr 15, 2017 18:27
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Check out the Sherline parallel set, or the littlemachineshop set.
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Apr 15, 2017 21:00
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Brekelefuw posted:Check out the Sherline parallel set, or the littlemachineshop set. I must have had a Minor Brain Thing b/c I got home on Friday and found a set of mini 3" parallels on my doorstep courtesy of KBC tools. Forgot I ordered anything at all, whoops. Unrelated: Can anybody think of any good ways to work-harden half-round brass wire without seriously distorting its profile/dimensions? Everybody and their aunt sells it fully annealed but I want it as springy and hard as is reasonably possible, and (so far as I know) red brass alloys aren't heat-hardenable like idk Muntz metal is. My thinking, from least-stupid to most-stupid, is either: put it through a wire-straightening roller tool a couple of times, buy it oversize and draw it down to final spec with a draw plate, or buy it oversize and hammer-swage it into a half-round groove of the size I want. Ambrose Burnside fucked around with this message at 01:10 on Apr 17, 2017 |
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Apr 16, 2017 23:46
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mekilljoydammit posted:Talking to Slung about it, I think I may just build one for shits and grins out of stuff I have sitting around - which is to say, I can move the burner between my foundry and a potential forge, I have a bunch of scrap steel and I think I have about 50 pounds worth of leftover DIY castable refractory from making the foundry. What the heck, free is a good price, right? Go for it! That's how I started, and I've since built 4 propane forges and 2 coal forges, and I have a good idea how things work.
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Apr 17, 2017 00:02
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In my quest for an anvil I picked up the advice from http://www.anvilfire.com/ to just bring it up in every conversation because you never know who might have an anvil they are getting rid of. Well, it seems to be working. Today while visiting my grandmother a friend of hers overheard me talking about anvils to my great uncle and mentioned her family up in Colorado is looking to sell a "rather large" anvil! She said she is going there for a visit in a few weeks and will get back to me on the details. If the price is right I would totally drive from Florida to Colorado and back. I have some friends up there I could visit with as well.
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Apr 17, 2017 00:26
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Cool, might be able to clean out that storage room in my shop without having to build a whole new shed (though I will do that), so I could quicken my path to getting a little machining place and other stuff.... That old MyFord ML7 is still for sale. Nobody wants it at that price (699) with the missing parts. I am thinking of offering 200€ for it... It's missing the gears for the lead screw so I couldn't turn threads with it, myford sells replacements still though, but I am wondering if it'd be better to build an electronic control for the lead screw instead and drive it using a stepper motor or something.
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Apr 19, 2017 08:10
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His Divine Shadow posted:Cool, might be able to clean out that storage room in my shop without having to build a whole new shed (though I will do that), so I could quicken my path to getting a little machining place and other stuff.... That old MyFord ML7 is still for sale. Nobody wants it at that price (699) with the missing parts. I am thinking of offering 200€ for it... It's missing the gears for the lead screw so I couldn't turn threads with it, myford sells replacements still though, but I am wondering if it'd be better to build an electronic control for the lead screw instead and drive it using a stepper motor or something. We have Myford OD grinders, they're very nice machines. I'd go the gear route myself, you'll have a fully functioning threading system without having to source steppers, controllers, programming, and hope it all works. In my limited experience with threads they can be very picky.
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Apr 19, 2017 13:47
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Just get the replacement gear, no need to reinvent the wheel when there's one sitting there missing a spoke or two.
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Apr 19, 2017 15:08
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I can't believe how people over value machinist tools. I regularly browse CL to maybe find some dude retiring and getting rid of his tools, and I see 30 year old mics for $150 bucks, or a gage pin set for $1500. Also old Kennedy tool boxes probably sell for more now than they did when they were new.
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Apr 20, 2017 01:38
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I think a lot of that stuff used to be way more expensive than it is now. According to some of my coworkers the Chinese stuff drove the price of other brands down quite a bit. Idk though, haven't been in the trade long.
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Apr 20, 2017 01:57
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honda whisperer posted:I think a lot of that stuff used to be way more expensive than it is now. According to some of my coworkers the Chinese stuff drove the price of other brands down quite a bit. Idk though, haven't been in the trade long. Well regardless, I don't know why you would think you can sell measuring tools that old for the same price or more than a new one. Unless it's that whole "they don't build them like they used to" thing, which yes is true in some ways, but not in this case.
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Apr 20, 2017 02:03
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A Proper Uppercut posted:Well regardless, I don't know why you would think you can sell measuring tools that old for the same price or more than a new one. Unless it's that whole "they don't build them like they used to" thing, which yes is true in some ways, but not in this case. It's usually some dude who had to buy it for some crappy machine shop job he had for a month. Anyone in the business usually offloads their poo poo for cheap. I bought 4 Kennedy boxes from a retired machinist filled with Tool and die tooling for $200. At the same time a bunch of other people were selling Fowler junk mics for $100. We had a major crane manufacturer shut down in the 1980's in my hometown. My grandfather had a machine shop and said he had to turn people away with tooling. All of the sudden there was 2000 people out of work and they all wanted to sell Starrett depth mics, Kennedy boxes, fowler mics, etc. Even now I've still got more boxes than I know what to do with. They kind of suck for general hand tools.
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Apr 20, 2017 03:16
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It's definitely not everyone. Most of my tools were bought used and I've seen plenty of examples of 10-20% off current retail for old heavily used stuff.
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Apr 20, 2017 03:37
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There's a fair amount of manufacturing up here in New England, you'd think I would see more than a lot of overpriced old stuff like you guys are saying. I've been working at the same shop for 16 years and I never got around to buying my own tools because they've always supplied everything I've needed. Just thinking about picking up some of my own stuff.
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Apr 20, 2017 08:56
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Ambrose Burnside posted:Just get the replacement gear, no need to reinvent the wheel when there's one sitting there missing a spoke or two. There are ready kits for attaching to lathes I found out, the cost for a full set of gears vs an ELS kit is marginal, slanted to the gears favor though. Still who knows if the dealer will accept my lowball offer.
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Apr 20, 2017 09:36
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It's pretty ridic to see people overvaluing their old junk by that much when you can get Mitutoyo 103 mikes for under a hundred bucks brand new. Btw if you haven't you should they're the poo poo
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Apr 20, 2017 22:45
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Sagebrush posted:Good Lord. No, that particular error doesn't really "just happen," that's...next level loving up. I'm amazed it "cut" at all -- you were basically just friction-heating the material and shoving it aside. In my first year of machining, working on Saturday with one other guy in the shop, I returned to the previous day's setup and continued on the same part. It did exactly what the picture above shows: huge chatter, buildup on the endmill, awful finish, etc. I was trying to figure it out for a long drat time before the other guy moseyed on over to me and said, "Hey, maintenance hosed with the wiring and all the machines in the building are running backward."
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Apr 20, 2017 23:22
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Are second hand measuring tools not a bit of a risky buy? I would think they're the one thing you'd buy new, to avoid the chance they've been dropped etc.
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Apr 20, 2017 23:49
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shame on an IGA posted:It's pretty ridic to see people overvaluing their old junk by that much when you can get Mitutoyo 103 mikes for under a hundred bucks brand new. That was my point exactly. I personally use a set of 101s. As for measuring tools, as long as it zeroes out, and you can take a couple test measurements on something, I wouldn't be afraid to pick up used mics or calipers.
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Apr 21, 2017 01:30
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I wonder has anyone done repeatability tests on the cheap electronic calipers. I know AvE calls them out for being unreliable when the battery gets low but otherwise is it possible they're just as accurate in normal use? I have been thinking about buying a 'proper' vernier but am I really going to notice any practical difference for my $100?
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Apr 21, 2017 08:29
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Rapulum_Dei posted:I wonder has anyone done repeatability tests on the cheap electronic calipers. I know AvE calls them out for being unreliable when the battery gets low but otherwise is it possible they're just as accurate in normal use? Fowlers are the absolute lowest I would go for digitals. I'd prefer starrett dial calipers over that though.
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Apr 21, 2017 09:17
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Rapulum_Dei posted:I wonder has anyone done repeatability tests on the cheap electronic calipers. I know AvE calls them out for being unreliable when the battery gets low but otherwise is it possible they're just as accurate in normal use? You really can't go wrong with Mitutoyo, we use these ones in the shop and they are solid, and under $100 https://www.amazon.com/Mitutoyo-Advanced-Absolute-Digital-Caliper/dp/B00WMKUUAQ
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Apr 21, 2017 11:04
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A Proper Uppercut posted:You really can't go wrong with Mitutoyo, we use these ones in the shop and they are solid, and under $100 https://www.amazon.com/Mitutoyo-Advanced-Absolute-Digital-Caliper/dp/B00WMKUUAQ These are great so long as you keep in mind that they are not coolant proof.
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Apr 21, 2017 11:40
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