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EAT FASTER!!!!!!
Sep 21, 2002

Legendary.


:hampants::hampants::hampants:

Leperflesh posted:

Labor costs vary massively from one area to the next, so it can be very hard for people in this thread to say if a price is good or not. Your best bet is to ask people in your immediate area who have had the same work done, or - hey, this is the reason to get multiple bids. And then not just go with the lowest bidder, but actually ask higher bidders why their bid is higher and see if they give you a bullshit response or if they can document better quality.

Fair enough thanks for the good insight. I'm kind of into having this company do it, because they're local and have been very responsive and responsible so far (when they were running 10 minutes late to measure my bid, they called (!)) while other bids told me "they might get to me in a week or 10 days, they'd let me know.

It's not an onerous sum either way, and they seem to stand pretty proudly behind their work. Any hesitation on the product we're planning on using? It seems from Consumer Reports vinyl really does hold up the best.

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DR FRASIER KRANG
Feb 4, 2005

"Are you forgetting that just this afternoon I was punched in the face by a turtle now dead?

mastershakeman posted:

plantation shutters are massively superior to shades. being able to take a nap in a pitch dark room at noon is amazing

We got blackout cordless shades for all bedrooms and it works really well.

Hubis
May 18, 2003

Boy, I wish we had one of those doomsday machines...

QuarkJets posted:

That's interesting

Probably not going to mow more than once a month anyway (the point where my grass just begins to look too long)

Grass won't grow at a constant rate, so if you mow taller you'll have to mow less often (while also keeping your lawn healthier).

QuarkJets posted:

Dry climate; water mostly comes from the sprinkler system, which I restrict to running just 2 nights a week (this is still a huge fraction of my water bill, though; lawncare is incredibly expensive and wasteful!)

Your lawn should only need 1/2" of water a week (including rainfall), ideally in 1 or 2 waterings. Depending on the type of grass you've got, you may actually want to stop watering it during the peak of your dry season, as that will allow it to go dormant -- it'll go brown, but it should come back just fine, and that will save you a ton of water.

Of course your "Dry climate" (vs "cold") makes me wonder what type of turf you've got, so some of this may be inapplicable. If you've got some kind of St. Augustine than you still want to be mowing it at like 3-4", but if it's Bermuda then set the deck at 1/2" and :getin:

Elephanthead
Sep 11, 2008


Toilet Rascal
Homeownership: Do you even measure the cut height of your mower?

DrBouvenstein
Feb 28, 2007

I think I'm a doctor, but that doesn't make me a doctor. This fancy avatar does.

RICHUNCLEPENNYBAGS posted:

If you want to just spend as little money as possible why don't you just buy mini blinds?

Can't speak for the other guy, but miniblinds are just kind of ugly? I personally prefer cellular shades, especially cordless. Just being able to lift/pull the blind to where you want it and have it stay without messing with that loving cord that never locks when you want it to,and does when you don't want it.

I'm thinking of replacing some of mine this year. I've got decent wooden blinds that were in the master bedroom when we got the house, but the rest are all cruddy miniblinds that have broken and missing blinds so they basically look like this:


Our cats really, REALLY hate miniblinds for some reason. Mostly the one on our kitchen window. They like to sit on the table and bat at them, get tangled up in them, etc...

But I'd be taking a gamble getting cellular shades, because it's fabric, so if they decide to attack those, they'd get wrecked worse than the miniblinds.

Cheesus
Oct 17, 2002

Let us retract the foreskin of ignorance and apply the wirebrush of enlightenment.
Yam Slacker
Another vote for cellular shades.

I've run the gamut of expense from Hunter Douglas through at Ocean State Job Lots. The best hang for the buck was found at IKEA.

Drunk Tomato
Apr 23, 2010

If God wanted us sober,
He'd knock the glass over.
Whatever happened to good old cardboard and duct tape??

Hughlander
May 11, 2005

Drunk Tomato posted:

Whatever happened to good old cardboard and duct tape??

We now have plywood technology that replaced it.

WarMECH
Dec 23, 2004
Mini blinds are cheap and look like poo poo.

"Faux wood blinds", of the 2" louvre type, that are sold everywhere look much nicer and last longer.

We have plantation shutters in our main living areas and any windows that face the front of the house (for uniformity), white faux wood blinds for the bedrooms/office because plantation shutters are too loving expensive to put in every room, and white cordless cellular shades for all of the bathrooms for maximum privacy that still allows lots of light and with the added bonus of insulating them from cold.

Hubis
May 18, 2003

Boy, I wish we had one of those doomsday machines...

QuarkJets posted:

Dry climate; water mostly comes from the sprinkler system, which I restrict to running just 2 nights a week (this is still a huge fraction of my water bill, though; lawncare is incredibly expensive and wasteful!)

Oh, another thing! (Since you seem to be interested in saving water)

It sounds like you're watering at night to minimize evaporation, which makes sense; however, if you aren't already try to water in the early morning (like 4-6) rather than late at night (after sundown, etc.). Grass takes up much more water when it's active, and if you're watering at night then the grass uptakes much less and you're left with just the residual moisture in the soil and lose whatever runs into your dry soil below. If you water in the morning your soil will be more wet when the sun comes up and the grass will be able to suck more of it up, meaning you can get away with spraying less total volume.

Elephanthead posted:

Homeownership: Do you even measure the cut height of your mower?

Everyone should do this, BTW -- don't trust what it says on the levers. Just stick a tape measurer with the end on the ground and measure the cut height/deck bottom. A few good bumps from rocks/rough terrain can knock everything all out of whack and you can be scalping your lawn even when you don't mean to be!

dalstrs
Mar 11, 2004

At least this way my kill will have some use
Dinosaur Gum
Is it possible to fix a St. Augustine lawn without laying new sod? The guy we bought the house from put down new sod last year but in a couple sections of the yard all we have coming up is weeds it seems. I have a soil test kit coming to make sure there is nothing too off about the dirt.

Originally my plan was to core aerate and overseed but it looks like you can't really grow St. A from a seed. So aside from fertilizer and I guess laying new sod or plugs I am not sure what other options might work. Any ideas?

WarMECH
Dec 23, 2004
Depends on how big the areas are that you want to fix, and how healthy the surround St. Aug is around it.

We have the same stuff, and any bare spots will usually grow back from the healthy grass around it once conditions are right. We had some spots that refused to grow, and sprinkling a little Black Kow compost on those areas and watering regularly enticed the neighboring grass to send runners that way. Fertilizing, proper watering, and placing plugs or sod on larger areas is really all you can do.

Also, St. Augustine is very susceptible to different lawn funguses and diseases and it is usually slow to recover. There are lots of forums out there if you Google the problem you are having and can really learn a lot. Also a guy on YouTube, "The Lawn Care Nut" recently moved to Tampa and has a yard of St. Augustine so I'm watching what he's doing to get more advice.

dalstrs
Mar 11, 2004

At least this way my kill will have some use
Dinosaur Gum

WarMECH posted:

Depends on how big the areas are that you want to fix, and how healthy the surround St. Aug is around it.

We have the same stuff, and any bare spots will usually grow back from the healthy grass around it once conditions are right. We had some spots that refused to grow, and sprinkling a little Black Kow compost on those areas and watering regularly enticed the neighboring grass to send runners that way. Fertilizing, proper watering, and placing plugs or sod on larger areas is really all you can do.

Also, St. Augustine is very susceptible to different lawn funguses and diseases and it is usually slow to recover. There are lots of forums out there if you Google the problem you are having and can really learn a lot. Also a guy on YouTube, "The Lawn Care Nut" recently moved to Tampa and has a yard of St. Augustine so I'm watching what he's doing to get more advice.

Some of the areas are pretty large and aside from a couple areas it doesn't look like it is very strong anywhere.I don't think it is a fungus, our next door neighbor has a think lawn of the same stuff and no barriers between the yards.

robotindisguise
Mar 22, 2003

dalstrs posted:

Originally my plan was to core aerate and overseed but it looks like you can't really grow St. A from a seed. So aside from fertilizer and I guess laying new sod or plugs I am not sure what other options might work. Any ideas?

St. Augustine doesn't flower/set seed until it's over 20 inches. The seeds don't germinate reliably and I would guess the seeds aren't true to the parent plant based on the lack of need/desire to stabilize the gene pool.

Making your own plugs or harvesting your own sod is easy and has a much better chance at survival. You could also mix in some eco turfs that will feed your grass like perennial peanut hay or sunshine mimosa.

WarMECH
Dec 23, 2004

dalstrs posted:

Some of the areas are pretty large and aside from a couple areas it doesn't look like it is very strong anywhere.I don't think it is a fungus, our next door neighbor has a think lawn of the same stuff and no barriers between the yards.

Look up some St. Augustine lawn diseases. You might have brown patch or take-all patch, which are actually fungal diseases. They are usually pretty easy to treat by just cutting back on watering, applying peat moss or compost, and if the area is large enough give it a head start with some plugs.

We are still early in the growing season for areas that have St. Augustine, so it may just be coming out of dormancy where you live. I would fertilize it if you haven't already, and get on a water schedule to apply 1/2" to 1" per week and no more to let the roots grow deep to survive drought. You could apply a pre-emergent herbicide or pest control but I prefer not to do that and just hand-pick weeds and let nature deal with the insects.

Elysium
Aug 21, 2003
It is by will alone I set my mind in motion.
This is on sale today. It's an older model, so not the latest and greatest, but looks like a pretty good buy? https://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-DCK281D2-Lithium-Brushless-Compact/dp/B00CSDIMXY/ref=bdl_pop_ttl_B00CSDIMXY

Sale is over, it was $179, now $300, which is what the new models are anyway, so no one should buy this now.

Elysium fucked around with this message at 18:14 on Apr 21, 2017

BeastOfExmoor
Aug 19, 2003

I will be gone, but not forever.

Elysium posted:

This is on sale today. It's an older model, so not the latest and greatest, but looks like a pretty good buy? https://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-DCK281D2-Lithium-Brushless-Compact/dp/B00CSDIMXY/ref=bdl_pop_ttl_B00CSDIMXY

I can't say I know a lot about the Dewalt line, but that seems like a good price for a brushless set.

QuarkJets
Sep 8, 2008

Hubis posted:

Grass won't grow at a constant rate, so if you mow taller you'll have to mow less often (while also keeping your lawn healthier).


Your lawn should only need 1/2" of water a week (including rainfall), ideally in 1 or 2 waterings. Depending on the type of grass you've got, you may actually want to stop watering it during the peak of your dry season, as that will allow it to go dormant -- it'll go brown, but it should come back just fine, and that will save you a ton of water.

Of course your "Dry climate" (vs "cold") makes me wonder what type of turf you've got, so some of this may be inapplicable. If you've got some kind of St. Augustine than you still want to be mowing it at like 3-4", but if it's Bermuda then set the deck at 1/2" and :getin:

Hubis posted:

Oh, another thing! (Since you seem to be interested in saving water)

It sounds like you're watering at night to minimize evaporation, which makes sense; however, if you aren't already try to water in the early morning (like 4-6) rather than late at night (after sundown, etc.). Grass takes up much more water when it's active, and if you're watering at night then the grass uptakes much less and you're left with just the residual moisture in the soil and lose whatever runs into your dry soil below. If you water in the morning your soil will be more wet when the sun comes up and the grass will be able to suck more of it up, meaning you can get away with spraying less total volume.


Everyone should do this, BTW -- don't trust what it says on the levers. Just stick a tape measurer with the end on the ground and measure the cut height/deck bottom. A few good bumps from rocks/rough terrain can knock everything all out of whack and you can be scalping your lawn even when you don't mean to be!

Look at this cool guy giving good advice! Thank you!

I'd heard about that early morning thing, so I've got my timer set to 4AM; 2 weekly sprays and the whole thing stays super green but doesn't grow too much, which is perfect.

Hubis
May 18, 2003

Boy, I wish we had one of those doomsday machines...

dalstrs posted:

Is it possible to fix a St. Augustine lawn without laying new sod? The guy we bought the house from put down new sod last year but in a couple sections of the yard all we have coming up is weeds it seems. I have a soil test kit coming to make sure there is nothing too off about the dirt.

Originally my plan was to core aerate and overseed but it looks like you can't really grow St. A from a seed. So aside from fertilizer and I guess laying new sod or plugs I am not sure what other options might work. Any ideas?

Make your own plugs! Phone posting, but I'll follow up with a link if I remember. Basically make plugs from healthy parts and plant them in the bare patches about 1ft apart.

RICHUNCLEPENNYBAGS
Dec 21, 2010

DrBouvenstein posted:

Can't speak for the other guy, but miniblinds are just kind of ugly? I personally prefer cellular shades, especially cordless. Just being able to lift/pull the blind to where you want it and have it stay without messing with that loving cord that never locks when you want it to,and does when you don't want it.

I'm thinking of replacing some of mine this year. I've got decent wooden blinds that were in the master bedroom when we got the house, but the rest are all cruddy miniblinds that have broken and missing blinds so they basically look like this:


Our cats really, REALLY hate miniblinds for some reason. Mostly the one on our kitchen window. They like to sit on the table and bat at them, get tangled up in them, etc...

But I'd be taking a gamble getting cellular shades, because it's fabric, so if they decide to attack those, they'd get wrecked worse than the miniblinds.

You can also get cordless mini blinds, but if you don't like them I guess that's fair.

Cheesus posted:

Another vote for cellular shades.

I've run the gamut of expense from Hunter Douglas through at Ocean State Job Lots. The best hang for the buck was found at IKEA.

blinds.com is good if you want something fancy. The wood blinds were a great value.

WarMECH posted:

"Faux wood blinds", of the 2" louvre type, that are sold everywhere look much nicer and last longer.

I completely disagree on this. I have a mix of real wood in some places and mini blinds in others but faux wood looks way worse than the mini blinds to me. I mean this is a weird metaphor but faux wood blinds remind me of, like, tofu that's supposed to be dressed up like meat and it's a weird in-between that satisfies no one.

RICHUNCLEPENNYBAGS fucked around with this message at 23:49 on Apr 20, 2017

WarMECH
Dec 23, 2004
The ones that try to look like real wood don't look that nice, but the white ones with 2" louvres are pretty standard around here.

RICHUNCLEPENNYBAGS
Dec 21, 2010

WarMECH posted:

The ones that try to look like real wood don't look that nice, but the white ones with 2" louvres are pretty standard around here.

Those scratch really easily.

I mean whatever floats your boat is fine; I just don't care for them.

CalvinandHobbes
Aug 5, 2004

whats the general opinion on sheer shades like this: https://www.selectblinds.com/sheer-shades.html

The ones I've seen in person look super nice but they seem pricey as heck.

TooMuchAbstraction
Oct 14, 2012

I spent four years making
Waves of Steel
Hell yes I'm going to turn my avatar into an ad for it.
Fun Shoe
If you've ever wanted to learn to sew, making simple curtains is pretty straightforward. Making fancy curtains...gets more complicated, but simple ones are only marginally more complicated than "a rectangle of fabric with some loops on the top".

Elephanthead
Sep 11, 2008


Toilet Rascal
You can use that no sew iron on tape to make curtains without having a sewing machine. (You still need an iron or I guess a hot pan).

They sell rings that just clip to the top.

EAT FASTER!!!!!!
Sep 21, 2002

Legendary.


:hampants::hampants::hampants:

Elysium posted:

This is on sale today. It's an older model, so not the latest and greatest, but looks like a pretty good buy? https://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-DCK281D2-Lithium-Brushless-Compact/dp/B00CSDIMXY/ref=bdl_pop_ttl_B00CSDIMXY

I was a little skeptical at the price but then realized that they're brushless tools. Are you building a house, or a contractor? That's really the only reason I think you'd need to go that high end.

EAT FASTER!!!!!!
Sep 21, 2002

Legendary.


:hampants::hampants::hampants:
Also solar curtains (literally blackout) from Amazon are, like $10 a panel so that was a good enough deal for us to just order those instead.

DR FRASIER KRANG
Feb 4, 2005

"Are you forgetting that just this afternoon I was punched in the face by a turtle now dead?

EAT FASTER!!!!!! posted:

I was a little skeptical at the price but then realized that they're brushless tools. Are you building a house, or a contractor? That's really the only reason I think you'd need to go that high end.

Those aren't high end tools. DeWalt is scrub tier (which is why I own it).

brugroffil
Nov 30, 2015


Something like FESTOOL is high end. A DeWalt or a Makita etc. that's seeing homeowner level usage should last a long time.

devmd01
Mar 7, 2006

Elektronik
Supersonik
Yeah, all the Ryobi cordless stuff I have isn't the best quality, but with as little as I use it I don't expect it to go out on me for a while.

Just got hit with a $1700 estimate for a new water softener, ours is apparently hosed up and killing our water pressure. Time for a second quote too!

brugroffil
Nov 30, 2015


You might want to check out buying a softener from somewhere like here and getting a plumber to install it:

http://www.cleanwaterstore.com/

I did some research last spring, and the general consensus I found was that while a system like Kinetico may be great, it's going to be $$$ and it's all proprietary parts. Something with a Fleck or Autotrol valve on the top can be repaired or replaced by anyone versus having to call out a specific local vendor rep who has exclusive rights to your territory.

EAT FASTER!!!!!!
Sep 21, 2002

Legendary.


:hampants::hampants::hampants:

HEY NONG MAN posted:

Those aren't high end tools. DeWalt is scrub tier (which is why I own it).

I meant electing for brushless. O/w you can get a DeWalt or Makita 18V (20V!) drill for like $100 shipped from Amazon.

Elysium
Aug 21, 2003
It is by will alone I set my mind in motion.

EAT FASTER!!!!!! posted:

I meant electing for brushless. O/w you can get a DeWalt or Makita 18V (20V!) drill for like $100 shipped from Amazon.

If you are looking at that link now, and it says $300, realize that when I posted it, it was $179. This is the current-model set for $299 anyway, so it would be pointless to get the ones in the older link now, and like you said there are other alternatives for cheaper if you don't need brushless.

Elysium fucked around with this message at 18:37 on Apr 21, 2017

baquerd
Jul 2, 2007

by FactsAreUseless

devmd01 posted:

Yeah, all the Ryobi cordless stuff I have isn't the best quality, but with as little as I use it I don't expect it to go out on me for a while.

Just got hit with a $1700 estimate for a new water softener, ours is apparently hosed up and killing our water pressure. Time for a second quote too!

Water softeners are super easy to install (if you're replacing an existing unit).

EAT FASTER!!!!!!
Sep 21, 2002

Legendary.


:hampants::hampants::hampants:

Elysium posted:

If you are looking at that link now, and it says $300, realize that when I posted it, it was $179. This is the current-model set for $299 anyway, so it would be pointless to get the ones in the older link now, and like you said there are other alternatives for cheaper if you don't need brushless.

Yes that's what had me taken aback.

devmd01
Mar 7, 2006

Elektronik
Supersonik

baquerd posted:

Water softeners are super easy to install (if you're replacing an existing unit).

Yep, I'm gonna take a look at the setup when I get home tonight and see what it will take, I already have the three-valve bypass from the existing kinetico. I'm hoping I can just get some short pre-terminated pex lines of the appropriate size to hook up.

Sperg Victorious
Mar 25, 2011

EAT FASTER!!!!!! posted:

I meant electing for brushless. O/w you can get a DeWalt or Makita 18V (20V!) drill for like $100 shipped from Amazon.

Of you live near a factory store/service center, you can get once used bits, saws, adapters on the cheap. Sometimes fixed tools no one came back for.

DTaeKim
Aug 16, 2009

devmd01 posted:

Yeah, all the Ryobi cordless stuff I have isn't the best quality, but with as little as I use it I don't expect it to go out on me for a while.

Just got hit with a $1700 estimate for a new water softener, ours is apparently hosed up and killing our water pressure. Time for a second quote too!

Heck, you might even get a third quote depending on how different the two are and see if either one is out of the ordinary.

I just got a third quote for my insulation and it's about $2000. It's more than the second company, but they're going to move some ventilation around in my attic because apparently there are some flammable material from the original insulation adjacent to my fireplace vent. Honestly, it's kind of funny how three companies give me three different estimates with three different job descriptions.

Company 1: $3800 for blow-in insulation (R35)and shielding in the attic and garage
Company 2: $1500 for insulation, repaired damaged insulation, soffit vents, relocated bathroom fan, sealed interior drops, and R38 insulation to attic

wooger
Apr 16, 2005

YOU RESENT?
Need some help with blinds/curtains for a square bay window on the lounge at the front of my house.

Window is only about 15ft from the street and it's big (central section is 90"x60"). House is also a little lower grade than the street, so we need some privacy, while still letting in light. Plus something to keep the cold out.

I'm thinking of a screen/mesh type roller blind that rolls up from the bottom - for privacy in the day. Then maybe some thicker curtains or roman blinds for night time.

Anything else that would work better?

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DR FRASIER KRANG
Feb 4, 2005

"Are you forgetting that just this afternoon I was punched in the face by a turtle now dead?
Get cordless cellular shades that are dual op. They roll up from the bottom or down from the top.

We have windows that face the street and when we want privacy and some light, we pull the shade down like 8"

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