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DTaeKim posted:Heck, you might even get a third quote depending on how different the two are and see if either one is out of the ordinary. That shielding is likely stuff they attach to your roof decking, which would indeed double the price. You probably only need it if your house is otherwise a heat sieve or live in a place where it gets up over 100 all summer long. You don't know unless you ask! I would have all 3 companies solve the flammable materials problem.
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Apr 22, 2017 15:31
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wooger posted:Anything else that would work better? A double curtain rod with a sheer layer and a heavy thermal blackout layer is what we use for our two front windows that are 6' x 6'.
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Apr 22, 2017 15:41
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H110Hawk posted:That shielding is likely stuff they attach to your roof decking, which would indeed double the price. You probably only need it if your house is otherwise a heat sieve or live in a place where it gets up over 100 all summer long. You don't know unless you ask! I would have all 3 companies solve the flammable materials problem. That's very insightful and explains the price. Otherwise company 3 is close in price to company 2 except they didn't provide an R rating. If our ducts are as porous as they say, I'm probably going to get them replaced on top of everything. Then again, the likelihood of needing to replace ductwork original to the house seems extremely likely. DTaeKim fucked around with this message at 17:32 on Apr 22, 2017 |
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Apr 22, 2017 17:00
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The Weber Genesis II LX S-340 is loving amazing. Grilled the hell out of some steaks last night and it was just an absolute pleasure to use. A bit pricey, but if it has half the longevity as the other Weber products, absolutely worth it.
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Apr 22, 2017 17:41
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wooger posted:Need some help with blinds/curtains for a square bay window on the lounge at the front of my house. For heavy thermal/blackout/sound curtains I really like these from Amazon/Half Price Drapes/Exclusive Fabrics on Overstock. They are cheap and they make some colors in a 100 inch wide panel if you have really big windows. Make sure you buy the SIGNATURE ones so you get the heavy blackout version. https://www.amazon.com/Half-Price-D...rapes+signature
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Apr 22, 2017 17:51
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DTaeKim posted:That's very insightful and explains the price. Otherwise company 3 is close in price to company 2 except they didn't provide an R rating. If our ducts are as porous as they say, I'm probably going to get them replaced on top of everything. Then again, the likelihood of needing to replace ductwork original to the house seems extremely likely. You need to ask these people what they're going to do to your house. Make them put in an R rating on the quotes, ask them what the shielding is, are they going to build a dam around your attic entry/chimneys/non-insulation-contact-rated-can-lights, etc. Does your state offer you rebates? We were paid a net of like $1000 to have our ductwork replaced vs just doing the attic and wall insulation. ($3000 in rebates, $2000 in ductwork, "must do three improvements to qualify.") Now is the time to fix things like encapsulating your asbestos flue, making sure bathroom exhaust fans exist, vent outside, and are the new panasonic ultra quiet ones, and installing any can lights / fixing electrical gremlins in the attic.
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Apr 22, 2017 18:43
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HEY NONG MAN posted:Get cordless cellular shades that are dual op. They roll up from the bottom or down from the top. That would work - already have a top-down version in the bedroom, but cellular blinds seem crazy expensive here (I'm in the UK). Like £800 -£1000 for all the windows in the bay. There are cheaper options, but none that come in the width I need. robotindisguise posted:A double curtain rod with a sheer layer and a heavy thermal blackout layer is what we use for our two front windows that are 6' x 6'. That would be an option, and its similar to what the previous owners had. Only trouble with this bay window is the ceiling is lower than the rest of the room, only 6'8". And the window goes all the way to the ceiling, so curtains are a bit challenging to mount.
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Apr 22, 2017 19:02
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Paver stones question: my entire backyard is made up of them (less mowing hell yea) and they're full of weeds in every corner. Just picked up a power washer for $80 from Aldi, what kind of sand do I want to sweep into the gaps once I blast all the detritus free? Also my lawn is all thatched and I think I'm going to have to hire someone to aerate it 
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Apr 22, 2017 19:25
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wooger posted:That would work - already have a top-down version in the bedroom, but cellular blinds seem crazy expensive here (I'm in the UK). Like £800 -£1000 for all the windows in the bay. Find a custom shop, I assume you have the equivalent of blinds.com in the UK. Your blinds are then made to measure.
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Apr 22, 2017 19:27
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wooger posted:That would be an option, and its similar to what the previous owners had. Only trouble with this bay window is the ceiling is lower than the rest of the room, only 6'8". And the window goes all the way to the ceiling, so curtains are a bit challenging to mount. Picture might be helpful. Off the top of my head you could mount to the ceiling either at full height or in the bay. Or to the face of the wall between the ceilings? There are also curtain rails/wires that are suspended and can be used to follow a contour...though I don't know if they're available in double.
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Apr 22, 2017 19:41
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H110Hawk posted:Find a custom shop, I assume you have the equivalent of blinds.com in the UK. Your blinds are then made to measure. Yeah tried that - the price I'm quoting is from the custom places online that can make them this wide... robotindisguise posted:Picture might be helpful. Off the top of my head you could mount to the ceiling either at full height or in the bay. Or to the face of the wall between the ceilings? There are also curtain rails/wires that are suspended and can be used to follow a contour...though I don't know if they're available in double. Couple of pictures from move in day: http://imgur.com/td1ZpnT http://imgur.com/AeL1Yud Edit: Unbroke image links wooger fucked around with this message at 23:12 on Apr 22, 2017 |
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Apr 22, 2017 20:47
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mastershakeman posted:Paver stones question: my entire backyard is made up of them (less mowing hell yea) and they're full of weeds in every corner. Just picked up a power washer for $80 from Aldi, what kind of sand do I want to sweep into the gaps once I blast all the detritus free? Polymeric paver sand. Follow the directions and it'll "lock" in place
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Apr 22, 2017 23:38
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Kids knocked down my mailbox awhile back. Got a new one. Sunk the post, assuming that the bolt holes at the top would be left/right/fore/aft. Bolt holes for the mounting plate are In the X instead of the cross orientation. Contemplating never receiving mail again. 
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Apr 23, 2017 12:57
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Our neighborhood has consistent mailbox posts, so when one needs to be replaced due to getting knocked over, rotted out, etc, we just call the vendor and they come out and install it.
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Apr 23, 2017 14:17
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H110Hawk posted:You need to ask these people what they're going to do to your house. Make them put in an R rating on the quotes, ask them what the shielding is, are they going to build a dam around your attic entry/chimneys/non-insulation-contact-rated-can-lights, etc. I was planning on just asking for the R-rating from company C, but thanks to you I will ask for more specific information. I'm nixing company A because they still won't provide me a WRITTEN list, just a price and a description in text. Unfortunately, our state provides no resource help. The local company throws in $400 rebate for insulation efficiency. I'm probably going to ask Company C to do the recessed lighting and the bathroom exhaust fans that Company B quoted. They quoted $1000 for new duct work. It's coming from another department in the company (they mainly do heating and air). Hey, thanks for your help. I would've missed a few things without your input. Finally, would there be any difference in fiberglass versus cellulose for blow-in insulation?
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Apr 23, 2017 14:42
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DTaeKim posted:Finally, would there be any difference in fiberglass versus cellulose for blow-in insulation? Fiberglass is Hitler's insulation. Only blow in cellulose.
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Apr 23, 2017 16:11
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MrYenko posted:Kids knocked down my mailbox awhile back. Got a new one. Sunk the post, assuming that the bolt holes at the top would be left/right/fore/aft. Bolt holes for the mounting plate are In the X instead of the cross orientation. Another reason why I adore walking mail carriers and porch mailboxes
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Apr 23, 2017 16:48
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I replaced my post mailbox with a house-mounted unit when I moved in. I even left a note for the mail carrier stating my intention. The next day there was a scrawled note on a scrap of an envelope that said DO NOT MOVE MAILBOX I came to figure out that my mailbox was a "check-in spot" where the postal workers had to scan a barcode and it also happened to be on a house (mine) where they could just swing up in their truck and scan it without getting out of their seat. I moved it anyway because I was sick of mail theft. That's my mailbox story.
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Apr 23, 2017 17:11
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I inadvertently ran over someone's mailbox once when I was a kid and I still feel bad about it. He'd just replaced it and it was on a 4x4 post and I didn't even notice ( I was trying to turn around a 15 foot mower with bat wings )
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Apr 23, 2017 21:37
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H110Hawk posted:Fiberglass is Hitler's insulation. Only blow in cellulose. and if you have fiberglass in your attic get that poo poo sucked out so you only have Cellulose.
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Apr 23, 2017 21:41
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gently caress My rear end posted:and if you have fiberglass in your attic get that poo poo sucked out so you only have Cellulose. And this. I thought it then the baby started demanding attention. It is worth the 50-75¢/sqft they will charge you to not have fiberglass.
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Apr 23, 2017 21:45
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You seen to know a bit about insulation. Why is fiberglass bad?
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Apr 24, 2017 00:37
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gently caress My rear end posted:and if you have fiberglass in your attic get that poo poo sucked out so you only have Cellulose. That sounds expensive
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Apr 24, 2017 01:08
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DTaeKim posted:You seen to know a bit about insulation. Why is fiberglass bad? I know enough about insulation to know that there is a reason we use shredded up newspapers instead of shredded up eye/skin/lung irritant. Bats are harder to install correctly (read: costs more) for the same insulation level. Maybe in 50 more years we will realize something is wrong with the borate treatment to fire retard it causes different kinds of cancer, but overall seems pretty inert. You do have to refill your walls if it's old construction you blew in insulation to, but that is on a timeline measured in decades so I'm not concerned. My knowledge of home improvement is pretty basic, and all stuff I learned over the past year and a half since I bought my house, largely on these internet comedy forums. If you read between the lines this is all stuff I had done to my home, and my knowledge tends to end abruptly after that. H110Hawk fucked around with this message at 03:44 on Apr 24, 2017 |
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Apr 24, 2017 03:41
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Fiberglass sucks to install and if you ever replace a can light or whatever it will fall on you and get in your eyes and on your skin and it is, in general, satan's insulation. Blown in cellulose is much better. I'm thinking I may rent the machine and blow more into my attic before summer really hits here.
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Apr 24, 2017 14:25
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What the hell why are you people rolling around in your attics? Just get an epipen and go hog wild.
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Apr 24, 2017 14:55
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No Butt Stuff posted:Fiberglass sucks to install and if you ever replace a can light or whatever it will fall on you and get in your eyes and on your skin and it is, in general, satan's insulation. wear proper PPE
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Apr 24, 2017 15:12
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Elephanthead posted:What the hell why are you people rolling around in your attics? Just get an epipen and go hog wild. An epipen will not get spun glass fibers out of our eyes and lungs. It's literally the same price or cheaper to get cellulose so why not?
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Apr 24, 2017 15:30
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brugroffil posted:wear proper PPE get off my back, THE MAN
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Apr 24, 2017 15:43
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HEY NONG MAN posted:I replaced my post mailbox with a house-mounted unit when I moved in. I even left a note for the mail carrier stating my intention. My neighborhood is densifying out of an old-growth suburb (like 60%+ of the lots in the neighborhood have had a single house knocked down and replaced with 2+), but sticking with post mailboxes so now there are a LOT of post mailboxes. Most of the new houses don't have any off-street parking in the front, so people keep parking on the street in front of people's mailboxes, and our mail carriers won't deliver mail if they have to get out of the truck, so now we have constant passive aggressive yard signs and Nextdoor posts about blocking mailboxes. Really they should switch it to a walking route but I have no idea how you would organize that and also it's not a problem on my street so whatever.
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Apr 24, 2017 17:31
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H110Hawk posted:An epipen will not get spun glass fibers out of our eyes and lungs. It's literally the same price or cheaper to get cellulose so why not? One guy was talking about paying to have all of the fiberglass pulled out of your attic and replaced with cellulose which just sounds crazy expensive when I could just take proper precautions whenever I'm working in the attic instead. Yeah it sucks to wear a mask and goggles but doing that maybe once every couple of years vs spending shitloads to replace literally all of my attic insulation?
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Apr 24, 2017 22:21
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At first I was thinking that people were complaining about fiberglass batting, but I didn't even know they frequently used blown in fiberglass. The batting is easy enough to work with, but lol blowing that stuff in sounds like a nightmare. What's the advantage of blown in over batting anyway? Ease of installation, or is there an efficiency boost?
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Apr 24, 2017 23:23
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LogisticEarth posted:At first I was thinking that people were complaining about fiberglass batting, but I didn't even know they frequently used blown in fiberglass. The batting is easy enough to work with, but lol blowing that stuff in sounds like a nightmare. Batts are hard to get installed just right which means they cost more to get done right. Any gaps result in R-0 insulation. Blown in loose fill is comparatively impossible to get wrong. You do have to build little dams around things like your attic entrance, fireplace, furnace, etc, but that's all pretty easy to do. Great for new construction walls because they won't settle and there is nothing in the way save for trade stuff (pipes, wires), but for attics I would just blow it in all day. And yes, blown fiberglass is satans material. It's little chunks of shredded fiberglass. Batts at least largely stay in place and gloves + standard attic PPE (respirator) will keep you safe enough. Blown in it will slowly sift through your attic into your house through fixtures forever.
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Apr 24, 2017 23:47
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what about that spray foam stuff
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Apr 24, 2017 23:51
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Leperflesh posted:what about that spray foam stuff Do you want to remove all of the existing insulation? Because that's what you need to do to install spray foam. If you're getting any insulation done, make sure you get air sealing done too. They'll crawl around in your attic for a couple hours, and use spray foam to seal around all the light fixtures, wire runs, drywall corner seams. The idea is to stop the conditioned air from leaking into the attic (or the attic air leaking down). http://www.greenbuildingadvisor.com/blogs/dept/musings/getting-biggest-bang-your-air-sealing-buck http://www.greenbuildingadvisor.com/stack-effect-when-buildings-act-chimneys We just had air sealing + celluose blown into R-38 in our attic ($5k). Too early to really tell the difference, but the house seems a lot quieter so far. We'll be getting the new blower door results later this week. devicenull fucked around with this message at 00:23 on Apr 25, 2017 |
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Apr 25, 2017 00:19
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devicenull posted:Do you want to remove all of the existing insulation? Because that's what you need to do to install spray foam. I have no insulation, and I'm tearing the walls down to the studs and clapboard, so yes this is what I plan to do. 
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Apr 25, 2017 00:36
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minivanmegafun posted:I have no insulation, and I'm tearing the walls down to the studs and clapboard, so yes this is what I plan to do. If we were pulling down all our walls at once, I'd definitely do that as well! We've been replacing the old fiberglass with R15 Roxul. Definitely follow the instructions if you do the spray foam yourself (like leaving the house for 48 hrs or whatever they say), I heard it offgasses some pretty harsh stuff while it cures
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Apr 25, 2017 00:54
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I just realized that having a 6600 dollar deductible on my roof isn't a good thing. Shopped around, found a local agent, will switch car and home to American Family tomorrow and save 300 a year with better coverage across the board.
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Apr 25, 2017 02:49
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What can anyone tell me about cleaning out a whirlpool/jacuzzi type tub that hasn't been used at all for 2-3 years? Anything in particular to recommend for cleaning out whatever Stygian goo is stuck in the jets?
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Apr 26, 2017 00:30
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My tiny yard (around 625 sq ft) drains for poo poo, the ground is almost always moist. What should I start with? Core aerator?
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Apr 26, 2017 01:25
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