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Geoj posted:You shouldn't need to touch the axle nut. There should be two bolts holding the caliper to the slide pins (with flat spots machined on the slide pins to hold with an open-end wrench while you loosen the bolts) and then another two bolts holding the caliper carrier to the spindle itself. Remove the caliper & carrier and the rotor can be removed. So the rotor is just floating on the studs?
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Apr 25, 2017 22:25
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E: ^^Yep. Rotor is typically centered on the hub, the caliper holds it in place until the wheel is bolted on, at which point the lugs are retaining it. Some brands do have a screw retaining the rotor on the hub, but those are generally only needed for assembly line purposes and can be left off after servicing. My 5-year-old cell phone car charger (bulky as hell, OEM from my first smartphone) has finally degraded to the point where the wires are shorting on each other. Do y'all have a good rec for a low-profile replacement unit, beyond "highest rated on Amazon"? Multiple USB slots would be nice but not necessary.
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Apr 25, 2017 22:27
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HenryJLittlefinger posted:So the rotor is just floating on the studs? Usually. Sometimes it's rusted in place. There will probably be two threaded holes on the hat or the rotor so you can drive a pair of bolts to pop it off the hub. Edit: Enourmo posted:My 5-year-old cell phone car charger (bulky as hell, OEM from my first smartphone) has finally degraded to the point where the wires are shorting on each other. Do y'all have a good rec for a low-profile replacement unit, beyond "highest rated on Amazon"? Multiple USB slots would be nice but not necessary. monsterzero fucked around with this message at 22:34 on Apr 25, 2017 |
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Apr 25, 2017 22:29
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Boys who love boys
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HenryJLittlefinger posted:So the rotor is just floating on the studs? On 95% of cars, yes. Some may have a setscrew or two holding the rotor to the hub. If your Matrix has them and you can't get them to move (very common) they can be drilled out as they're only there to hold the rotor in place during installation of brake hardware.
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Apr 25, 2017 22:31
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Enourmo posted:E: ^^Yep. Rotor is typically centered on the hub, the caliper holds it in place until the wheel is bolted on, at which point the lugs are retaining it. Some brands do have a screw retaining the rotor on the hub, but those are generally only needed for assembly line purposes and can be left off after servicing. monsterzero posted:Usually. Sometimes it's rusted in place. There will probably be two threaded holes on the hat or the rotor so you can drive a pair of bolts to pop it off the hub. Geoj posted:On 95% of cars, yes. Some may have a setscrew or two holding the rotor to the hub. If your Matrix has them and you can't get them to move (very common) they can be drilled out as they're only there to hold the rotor in place during installation of brake hardware. Sweet, thanks. This will be easier than I thought. Shop quoted me $375 and I figured it was time to learn. Are EBC automotive products pretty good? Anyone got a recommended (affordable) brand of rotors?
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Apr 25, 2017 22:59
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Rotors exist solely as a friction surface for the brake pads to ride against, so there really isn't much variation at the consumer level. I would find the cheapest set of rotors on Rock Auto and see if they beat the chain parts stores once shipping is calculated in (they usually do.) If you have a Prime account you can cross-shop the part numbers from Rock Auto on Amazon, while prices are usually within a few dollars of each other Amazon typically has better shipping than RA.
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Apr 25, 2017 23:03
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monsterzero posted:I wouldn't worry. That part of the tire is usually pretty thick and designed to handle curbing. I'd just watch it the next few weeks, and if nothing changes not worry about it. This. I have had much longer gouges in the sidewalls of the tires on my Jeep (yay for offroading in rocks!) with no ill effects. Geoj posted:On 95% of cars, yes. Integrated hub/rotor assemblies were not too uncommon on trucks, but thankfully seem to be fading out there too. Even then those aren't the end of the world to deal with. Still way better than drum brakes.
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Apr 25, 2017 23:32
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HenryJLittlefinger posted:Sweet, thanks. This will be easier than I thought. Shop quoted me $375 and I figured it was time to learn. I've thrown the DD grade Centric rotor/pad kits on both of my cars and been happy with the results. The pads are ceramic, quiet and cleaner than what I've had in the past. And their model name matches my HIV status: Posi-Quiet 
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Apr 26, 2017 00:24
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Geoj posted:On 95% of cars, yes. Some may have a setscrew or two holding the rotor to the hub. If your Matrix has them and you can't get them to move (very common) they can be drilled out as they're only there to hold the rotor in place during installation of brake hardware. Buy a decent quality impact driver and a bfh!
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Apr 26, 2017 03:12
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2007 Ford Five Hundred 3.0 L Duratec 30 V6 145,000 Miles Started with remote start, it would idle a little rough, get in, tap gas a little it would clear right up. 3 - 4 weeks later progressively got worse, started having drive ability issues, high idle when stopped and at 40MPH would always shift up and down repeatedly. Googled, all signs pointed to dirt throttle body or MAF sensor. Tore Throttle body off cleaned it and cleaned MAF sensor. Car ran perfect, drove it for over 2 hours to make sure, shifted fine, and no issues what so ever. Next morning, engine starts, goes it to fail safe mode (wrench light) will not go over 10mph and wot maybe 2500 rpms. Leave it sit for few days till weekend car will not start at all, crank all day long, but nothing else. Googled, general consensus seemed to be throttle body took a poo poo, common issue. Replaced throttle body, still crank all day, no fire. Replaced fuel filter on a whim, cheap and easy. Car fires up, only will run at wot @ 2000rpms and throws codes: P0451 P0191 P2196 P2198 Check fuel pressure with mechanical gauge, 80PSI spliced in at fuel filter, no test port on rail. Swapped out the fuel pressure sensor and still same issue. Pulled O2 sensor and plugs out, plugs are wet and you can smell gas out of the O2 bung when cranking. Guessing fuel pump maybe?
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Apr 26, 2017 03:22
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Wet plugs and fuel out the exhaust? Sounds like no spark for some reason.
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Apr 26, 2017 03:28
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IOwnCalculus posted:Wet plugs and fuel out the exhaust? Sounds like no spark for some reason. Plugs do spark, pulled and checked for spark. Plus it does run, just have to hold it wide open.
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Apr 26, 2017 03:53
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I have a 2016 Civic EX-T. Last night I was going 60 mph or so and hit a stupid goddamn punk bitch rear end dick raccoon on the left side of the front bumper. This worthless animal put a big dent/crack in the bumper, ripped off most of the wheel well lining, and ripped out some screws etc holding the metal undercarriage cover (I'm not sure what this is called) off, so it is now hanging down some in front. I have not ever really done any fixing to a car but it seems like on first glance that I might be able to handle replacing at least the bumper and wheel well cover. Is there a good tutorial/instruction set for this? What about the metal cover? Where should I get the parts from? Or is trying this just a terrible idea and I should take it to someone competent?
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Apr 26, 2017 14:32
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bewbies posted:I have a 2016 Civic EX-T. Last night I was going 60 mph or so and hit a stupid goddamn punk bitch rear end dick raccoon on the left side of the front bumper. This worthless animal put a big dent/crack in the bumper, ripped off most of the wheel well lining, and ripped out some screws etc holding the metal undercarriage cover (I'm not sure what this is called) off, so it is now hanging down some in front. Sorry to hear about the dumbass raccoon. Do you have comprehensive insurance? Is your deductible $500? If so, the damages (labor + parts) will exceed your ded by quite a bit. There's no way to give an accurate estimate without a teardown of the bumper, but it sounds like you'll need a new bumper cover, painted and matched, plus all the other stuff you mentioned, and maybe impacted parts under the bumper. How would you plan on repairing the bumper crack? I would just take it to a shop if it were me. Body shop or collision center, not mechanic. Give us some photos if you can 
Michael Scott fucked around with this message at 15:28 on Apr 26, 2017 |
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Apr 26, 2017 15:26
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Hey, what's the best way to insulate a fiberglass truck topper? Just looking for an r5-10ish to keep the heat and noise down, I'd like to camp in it in the Florida area, so humid and hot. Can I just use rigid foam, a DIY sprayfoam, or should I invest in some Aluminized Heat and Noise Shield. It'd be a white topper on a white truck (2010 Ford Ranger XL Supercab). Is this feasable, or dumb?
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Apr 26, 2017 20:01
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Having some car troubles, tired of being stressed and thinking about it, maybe someone could help? 2005 Chevy Impala 135k miles, all repairs listed were made at the same local mechanic. Had a fuel pressure regulator replaced last year, no problems after Last month had problems starting the car, would take 2 or 3 extended turns of the key and the engine would skip and sputter. Took it to the shop they said low fuel pressure, ran the diagnostics and ended up paying for a fuel pump replacement, fuel filter. Recommended a tune up since car was high mileage. Car still had extended crank, took the car back today and they said it was a faulty fuel pump, replaced it free since under warranty, this time I had a 'tune up' done, air filter, plugs/cables. I've started the car 4 times since getting it back from the shop, running around doing errands and still had the extended crank problem two times of the four starting it. Not sure if I should give it a day or two or try and take it back to the shop... I've spend 1,100 in a month and the problem still may be there. Any advice or suggestions to the problem?
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Apr 26, 2017 22:40
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Definitely take it back if it's still doing the thing for which you took it in.
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Apr 26, 2017 22:54
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iroguebot posted:Having some car troubles, tired of being stressed and thinking about it, maybe someone could help? Did they replace the regulator originally because of the sputtering start problem? Or did it develop after they replaced the regulator. Anyway since they replaced your entire fuel system save the lines and the injectors themselves, ill shoot from the hip: MAF sensor. Unplug it and see if it will run without it. If problem goes away then you need a new MAF. IF not then Id be looking at crank or cam sensors. First tho check the harness by the AC accumulator for damage as it can rub on the metal support. Next id be hooked up to a scope and see if im getting injector pulses and coil spark at proper timing. Either way they should fix it for free since they miss diagnosed you out of 1000 bucks. Preoptopus fucked around with this message at 23:27 on Apr 26, 2017 |
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Apr 26, 2017 23:20
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Preoptopus posted:Did they replace the regulator originally because of the sputtering start problem? Or did it develop after they replaced the regulator. Actually I was the same problem I'm having now with the extended crank last year, they replaced the regulator and it was fine afterwards. Last month when they were testing they said the regulator tested fine, but it was getting (off the top of my head, numbers may be off) something like low 40s PSI on crank and it should be like high 50s? Fuel Pump/filter didn't fix it, they said it was probably plugs since they looked original and it was ~132k miles at the time. So since they called yesterday and said it was the bad pump installed last month, they'd do that free, so I decided to just to the tune up since it was recommended to get the fuel pressure back up. I'll be honest the car idles good, smooth, no problems once it's started. But it's the start up that just makes me really stressed and anxious.
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Apr 26, 2017 23:28
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iroguebot posted:Actually I was the same problem I'm having now with the extended crank last year, they replaced the regulator and it was fine afterwards. Last month when they were testing they said the regulator tested fine, but it was getting (off the top of my head, numbers may be off) something like low 40s PSI on crank and it should be like high 50s? Fuel Pump/filter didn't fix it, they said it was probably plugs since they looked original and it was ~132k miles at the time. Regulator on those is super easy to test. Unplug the vacuum line from the top and just smell it. If the line smells like gas its leaking and not doing its job. Sounds like they don't know what they are doing and playing Velcro mechanic with you. Throw poo poo at it till it sticks. Any check engine lights or anything? Missfiring? How does it feel at idle in traffic? How high is your idle? Does it ever feel like it will die if you don't give it gas? Preoptopus fucked around with this message at 23:35 on Apr 26, 2017 |
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Apr 26, 2017 23:29
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Preoptopus posted:Regulator on those is super easy to test. Unplug the vacuum line from the top and just smell it. If the line smells like gas its leaking and not doing its job. No engine light, Not really sure what missfiring would feel like, I assume it'd be feeling like it skips while driving? Doesn't do that, Idle is actually better and smoother now after the plug replacement, idle would be normal and not out of the ordinary, since it's a daily driver I would probably notice something like that. No feeling that it'd die. Honestly the only problem it's having is the long crank, sometimes it takes turning the key back and cranking it 2 or 3 times to get it going, when it takes the longer times you can briefly smell gas coming through the a/c for the first few seconds.
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Apr 26, 2017 23:38
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iroguebot posted:No engine light, Well you smell gas cause its flooding into the cylinders. Do this too much and you will burn your convertor out so I would be weary. Ill bet your Mass Air Fuel is off and It thinks it has too much air going into the engine so it compensates by dumping in fuel and it floods out your cylinders causing a ruff start.
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Apr 26, 2017 23:46
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What's the big deal about buying a used rental car if it has 40k miles? Aren't rentals also maintained well?
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Apr 27, 2017 01:30
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Mokelumne Trekka posted:What's the big deal about buying a used rental car if it has 40k miles? Aren't rentals also maintained well? Most of the concern is in how the cars are driven. Yeah, it only has 40,000 miles on it but a lot of that may be severe duty since nobody is going to care about how they drive a rental car. Also maintenance can be questionable - the car isn't generating revenue when its up on the lift, and when they know its going to be cycled out in less than a year they might not really care that much about routine maintenance. Bear in mind that its technically conceivable for a car to go upwards of 40,000 miles on the factory filled oil, and anything else that doesn't immediately affect the car's ability to be driven will get deferred as long as possible.
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Apr 27, 2017 01:39
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Mokelumne Trekka posted:What's the big deal about buying a used rental car if it has 40k miles? Aren't rentals also maintained well? Some are fine, my family has bought a few and gotten decent deals on them. Other rentals are beaten on like a, uh, rented mule.
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Apr 27, 2017 01:41
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bewbies posted:I have a 2016 Civic EX-T. Last night I was going 60 mph or so and hit a stupid goddamn punk bitch rear end dick raccoon on the left side of the front bumper. This worthless animal put a big dent/crack in the bumper, ripped off most of the wheel well lining, and ripped out some screws etc holding the metal undercarriage cover (I'm not sure what this is called) off, so it is now hanging down some in front. Take it to a body shop for an estimate. Tell them you're not sure if you want to run it through as insurance or cash. Shouldn't take them more than an hour or so. Use a shop that's in-network for your insurance, in case you decide to go with them - that way the inspection is already done and they can start as soon as insurance approves the repairs. The 4 digit number they'll hand back to you is how much you'll be spending. Now compare that to your comprehensive insurance deductible. In most states, animal strikes fall under acts of god, and are therefore covered by comprehensive instead of collision (thus, your rates don't get affected much, if at all). On something this new, you're really better off letting a body shop fix it properly - you'll have a hard time finding used parts, and you're going to have to get a body shop involved for paint anyway (plus straightening any bent metal). If this were an older car, I'd be all about DIY and making it good 'nuff, but this is a ~1 year old car, one that I assume you'd like to be able to sell at some point. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 03:28 on Apr 27, 2017 |
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Apr 27, 2017 03:24
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Suspect Bucket posted:Hey, what's the best way to insulate a fiberglass truck topper? Just looking for an r5-10ish to keep the heat and noise down, I'd like to camp in it in the Florida area, so humid and hot. Can I just use rigid foam, a DIY sprayfoam, or should I invest in some Aluminized Heat and Noise Shield. It'd be a white topper on a white truck (2010 Ford Ranger XL Supercab). Is this feasable, or dumb? I would think that rigid foam should be fine for your purposes. Unless you're already familiar with spray foam I wouldn't risk it.
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Apr 27, 2017 12:04
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Hello if I need a specific part for my car and it is small and cheap is there a preferred website? Part 95214260 for 2013 Chevy Sonic Hatchback LT Pops up with a bunch of OfficialChevyOEM.com sites and I don't know how trustworthy they are
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Apr 27, 2017 12:59
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Rockauto.com
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Apr 27, 2017 13:01
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monsterzero posted:Some are fine, my family has bought a few and gotten decent deals on them. Other rentals are beaten on like a, uh, rented mule. Yeah, it sounds sketchy on the face of it to buy a used rental, but my parents have had at least two Toyotas from Enterprise that turned out no worse than any other used or off-lease car. Not sure if they took them to a 3rd-party mechanic for an evaluation first or anything.
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Apr 27, 2017 13:06
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EightBit posted:Rockauto.com I can't find the part on Rock Auto. Any other reputable options?
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Apr 27, 2017 13:19
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The Slack Lagoon posted:Hello if I need a specific part for my car and it is small and cheap is there a preferred website? Have you tried ringing up the dealer? Sometimes dealer prices for small poo poo are cheaper than napa or orililys also autozone price matches.
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Apr 27, 2017 13:59
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The Slack Lagoon posted:Hello if I need a specific part for my car and it is small and cheap is there a preferred website? Amazon's got 'em for 8 bucks.
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Apr 27, 2017 14:01
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Michael Scott posted:Sorry to hear about the dumbass raccoon. Do you have comprehensive insurance? Is your deductible $500? If so, the damages (labor + parts) will exceed your ded by quite a bit. Yu-Gi-Ho! posted:Take it to a body shop for an estimate. Tell them you're not sure if you want to run it through as insurance or cash. Shouldn't take them more than an hour or so. Use a shop that's in-network for your insurance, in case you decide to go with them - that way the inspection is already done and they can start as soon as insurance approves the repairs. Thanks for the replies; I do have comprehensive insurance with a $500 deductible; if that won't make my rates rise that probably makes sense. The reason I was asking it it looked like a new bumper and wheel well liner were not all that expensive online ($200 for the bumper and less than $50 for the liner) and I was hoping that replacing them wouldn't be that much of a task. But...if it is more involved than I want to or am capable of handling I guess I'll just make USAA pay for it....
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Apr 27, 2017 14:03
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EightBit posted:Rockauto.com RockAuto lists parts for Bizzarrini it blows my mind.
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Apr 27, 2017 14:07
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bewbies posted:Thanks for the replies; I do have comprehensive insurance with a $500 deductible; if that won't make my rates rise that probably makes sense. That bumper comes unpainted.
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Apr 27, 2017 14:17
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The Slack Lagoon posted:Hello if I need a specific part for my car and it is small and cheap is there a preferred website?
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Apr 27, 2017 20:20
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scuz posted:Last time I had to order anything off of gmpartsdirect.com it went pretty well. Needed a replacement fuel injection spider for a 4.3L Vortec and it was exactly the thing, arrived in tact and speedily. Pretty sure most of those sites drop ship from the same place anyway.
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Apr 27, 2017 20:27
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I've never had to service a car, any car I've driven before was owned by my folks or leased and my current car, a 2009 Ford Fiesta has put on about 12,000 miles in the past year since I've been using it for commuting to work. How do I best prepare my car for it's service? The oil and engine coolant are both straddling the minimum point on the markers but other than that it feels good to drive and has no obvious problems, it had it's MOT 6 months ago and had a new tie rod and tie rod end and had fresh tyres put on just before I bought it last year. I don't know how to best prepare it for it's yearly check-up, for the record it's done 50,000 miles, I've done the basic stuff like tyre pressure and topping up windscreen wash but thats really where my motoring knowledge ends, haha. Macarius Wrench fucked around with this message at 21:29 on Apr 27, 2017 |
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Apr 27, 2017 21:26
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Macarius Wrench posted:I've never had to service a car, any car I've driven before was owned by my folks or leased and my current car, a 2009 Ford Fiesta has put on about 12,000 miles in the past year since I've been using it for commuting to work.
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Apr 27, 2017 21:57
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