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biracial bear for uncut posted:The main draw on it for me is that it's an industrial frame with a built-in heated chamber system that I'll need to figure out how to control after converting things over to hobbyist steppers/hardware if the "accessories" that come with it in that auction aren't physical copies of the software/manuals/etc. You shouldn't need to do all that much conversion, really. New stepper drivers for each axis if the A4988 boards on a RAMPS or w/e aren't up to the task; some kind of MOSFET-controlled extruder heater driver; some basic screwing around with the limit switches and endstops and stuff; and I'd just plug the chamber heater into the wall, TBH. Then it's just a giant RepRap in a box. I wouldn't attempt to interface with the existing control board given that (1) you will have zero support, so if you're not a dual-major electrical/software engineer, good luck; and (2) RAMPS clones are like 8 bucks on eBay or AliExpress and Marlin has millions of installed users.
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May 9, 2017 01:56
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Welp, some rear end in a top hat outbid me late last night. Going to wait until close to auction close to re-up the bid and hopefully snipe it in the last 15 minutes.
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May 9, 2017 12:24
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Rapulum_Dei posted:Quote a post repeating the same information but not answering the question it asks. My post was the answer to the question asked, though.
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May 9, 2017 12:26
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It has begun
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May 9, 2017 14:15
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biracial bear for uncut posted:Welp, some rear end in a top hat outbid me late last night. Going to wait until close to auction close to re-up the bid and hopefully snipe it in the last 15 minutes. If you have Android I can help you out. Pm me
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May 9, 2017 14:38
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EVIL Gibson posted:If you have Android I can help you out. Pm me Not sure how having Android will help. I've got a reminder on my phone to look at the auction and then bid if it hasn't gone above what I'm comfortable paying.
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May 9, 2017 14:42
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biracial bear for uncut posted:Not sure how having Android will help. I've got a reminder on my phone to look at the auction and then bid if it hasn't gone above what I'm comfortable paying. If you have a set number that you're willing to pay, just use Auction Sniper or similar. It removes the thrill, but also removes the thrill. Good luck with it, when they work, the industrial machines are really really good.
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May 9, 2017 15:23
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sharkytm posted:If you have a set number that you're willing to pay, just use Auction Sniper or similar. It removes the thrill, but also removes the thrill. Good luck with it, when they work, the industrial machines are really really good. I use mybidder auction sniper since you can use the full version of it paying for it which auction sniper requires purchase. But I was looking to communicate through pm because that talk does not belong in this thread.
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May 9, 2017 15:27
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Both of those apps seem to be specifically for eBay, while this auction is not on eBay.
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May 9, 2017 15:36
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Received my Prusa on Friday and have been printing almost non-stop ever since.  The Prusa Slic3r software seems to do the best prints so far. I've had some weird behavior with the Simplify3d. Though that could have been me loving it up too. Very happy with the experience. It just prints without me having to gently caress with anything. The herringbone gear assembly is just blowing peoples minds at work. (I work in a metalworking machine shop)
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May 9, 2017 16:03
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Yooper posted:Received my Prusa on Friday and have been printing almost non-stop ever since. To be fair, Prusa has a guy that does nothing but figure out the best settings for a given filament in their edition of Slic3r and they update it pretty regularly, where Simplify3D is much more general in it's printer profiles and is working on adding support for more printers. EDIT: So I've got a sheet of LokBuild on my Maker Select and it's working pretty great with PETG so far after getting the distance between the Z-home position and the build plate properly set up. Wait for it to cool, grab the print and pull it off the bed. Next to print those belt tensioner mods and replace the goofy belt springs to see if that eliminates the artifacts I get every now and then right after a rapid traverse. Some Pinko Commie fucked around with this message at 16:26 on May 9, 2017 |
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May 9, 2017 16:16
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biracial bear for uncut posted:Next to print those belt tensioner mods and replace the goofy belt springs to see if that eliminates the artifacts I get every now and then right after a rapid traverse. To save you some wasted time and effort I recommend these tensioners in particular: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2163540 I went through 2 other designs that either didn't have enough adjustment or rubbed against the belt before finding that remix.
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May 9, 2017 16:41
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Congratulations to the new Prusa owners  Here's some advice for you that should really be in the manual: calibrate your extruder http://shop.prusa3d.com/forum/original-prusa-i3-mk2-f23/new-option-calibrate-e-in-firmware-3-0-10-alpha2-t2905.html#p22580 http://shop.prusa3d.com/forum/prusa-i3-kit-building-calibrating-first-print-main-f6/calibrate-extruder-e-steps--t4066.html#p31508
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May 9, 2017 16:52
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Just a head's up that lots 3 & 3A in that auction I linked earlier that ends Thursday looks like a hell of a steal even with shipping. I would bid, but I know the power in the building I like to call my shop can't handle it (all 110v, no 230v or 440v anywhere).
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May 9, 2017 17:15
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I made a post on r/3Dprinting, and would be interested in feedback here as well, concerning my wall quality issues. The zits are gone, but now I've got tiny holes near the retraction points that I just can't seem to get rid of. I'm surprised with the answer I'm getting so far, that S3D itself may be at fault, and to try Cura. I'm very much willing to try Cura, though I don't understand why that would be a solution. What might S3D inherently do that would cause this? This looks like something that should be preventable, without having to switch out the slicer. My E3D V6/Titan combination must be fairly common for S3D users, so I doubt that this would happen for all other users with that hardware. But, like I said in the post, I've tried so much, so it's worth giving Cura a shot too I guess...
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May 9, 2017 17:15
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I used a negative restart on my 0.4mm nozzle to get good results but when I used the same retraction settings for a 0.8mm nozzle I got results that looked like that. I lowered retraction (well, ditched the negative restart anyway - it wasn't much) and it went away.
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May 9, 2017 17:54
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Yeah, a negative restart means that if you retracted 1mm, but you have a -0.1mm restart, then you only extrude 0.9mm to recover from the extraction. I'm getting these holes even with a positive restart, though. Really small one, 0.05mm, but like I said in the Reddit post, I am wary of trying to fix this issue with a positive restart. I might fill the hole, but I'd expect it to look messy.
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May 9, 2017 18:53
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Oovee posted:It has begun jealous
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May 9, 2017 18:54
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Revol posted:Yeah, a negative restart means that if you retracted 1mm, but you have a -0.1mm restart, then you only extrude 0.9mm to recover from the extraction. I'm getting these holes even with a positive restart, though. Really small one, 0.05mm, but like I said in the Reddit post, I am wary of trying to fix this issue with a positive restart. I might fill the hole, but I'd expect it to look messy. Do you have coast or wipe enabled?
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May 9, 2017 18:54
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Revol posted:Yeah, a negative restart means that if you retracted 1mm, but you have a -0.1mm restart, then you only extrude 0.9mm to recover from the extraction. I'm getting these holes even with a positive restart, though. Really small one, 0.05mm, but like I said in the Reddit post, I am wary of trying to fix this issue with a positive restart. I might fill the hole, but I'd expect it to look messy. Have you tried all defaults now that you've fixed your extruder? Those gaps look suspiciously like some kinda holdover from when you were trying to fix the blobbing
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May 9, 2017 19:00
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mewse posted:Have you tried all defaults now that you've fixed your extruder? Those gaps look suspiciously like some kinda holdover from when you were trying to fix the blobbing I'm not quite sure what my defaults were, because I was working off tweaked settings to begin with. But I don't think it is much far off with what I've got now in the Reddit post. Full Circle posted:Do you have coast or wipe enabled? Yes, a 0.3mm coast. Turning this off will cause a slight outward bump alongside the holes.
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May 9, 2017 20:04
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Test with a slightly larger positive restart on a calibration cylinder and see what it does.
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May 9, 2017 20:42
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Does anyone have a printer with a heated enclosure? How big was the difference?
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May 9, 2017 21:08
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rawrr posted:Does anyone have a printer with a heated enclosure? How big was the difference? I don't know if was posted about in this thread, but people have built temperature-controlled enclosures for their printers just so they could print ABS (usually just a server enclosure big enough for the main body of the printer and a small heater and temperature sensor/controller--set to 65C and let it run while the printer does it's thing). Most of the printers out there with heated build chambers built-in are industrial units that hobbyists don't have access to.
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May 9, 2017 21:30
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PEI print surface seems to have fixed my ABS warping permanently. I can even use the print fan and bridges are basically perfect.
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May 9, 2017 21:34
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May 10, 2017 04:47
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Oovee posted:It has begun Two more weeks for me, so excited.
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May 10, 2017 05:33
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I haven't got the date yet but mine's still 3 weeks out at least
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May 10, 2017 05:50
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My Maker Select v.2 showed up and I finally put it together. Took me a while to figure out the bed leveling but I must've done an okay job because this elephant turned out alright. It's not perfect but it's my first print and nothing disastrous happened. This picture ended up being higher res than I thought. He's only about 1 1/2" from junk to trunk.
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May 10, 2017 12:25
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I would dearly love to have a functioning-but-non-firing Imura 3D revolver, and there seem to be several generations of plans online: I have no technical skills, but can I just contact someone with a good printer and pay them to make one for me, maybe with mods that reassure them that it will be *non*-firing, like hogging out the chambers so they won't support ignition, or something like that? That would look amazing on my shelf and I could dry-fire it to amuse myself.
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May 10, 2017 13:24
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TapTheForwardAssist posted:I would dearly love to have a functioning-but-non-firing Imura 3D revolver, and there seem to be several generations of plans online: If you have the designs that are close to what you want, you can use 3dhubs to locate someone that can do what you want and ask them to quote you a price to have it done.
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May 10, 2017 14:05
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Rexxed posted:My Maker Select v.2 showed up and I finally put it together. Took me a while to figure out the bed leveling but I must've done an okay job because this elephant turned out alright. It's not perfect but it's my first print and nothing disastrous happened. This picture ended up being higher res than I thought. He's only about 1 1/2" from junk to trunk. That's pretty goddamned nice for an out-of-the-box print 
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May 10, 2017 15:45
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TapTheForwardAssist posted:I would dearly love to have a functioning-but-non-firing Imura 3D revolver, and there seem to be several generations of plans online: rawrr posted:Does anyone have a printer with a heated enclosure? How big was the difference?  The one on the left isn't even completely enclosed, there's just cardboard panels on the sides and back that go about halfway down. I still need to cut the plexiglass front bit, but cutouts for the motors is a pain so I just toss a blanket over it. The blanket just over a frame works better than the cardboard does (the cardboard is even lined on both sides with a mylar "space blanket"). If you have a frame with T-slot or something like this, it is easy to just bolt some dowels to the frame to provide structure to hang a blanket over and it works as well as any other enclosure, perhaps better because it is just the right size. Before anyone asks, no, the sound-dampening foam tiles make absolutely zero difference in print noise (or insulation properties). Don't waste your money.
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May 10, 2017 15:56
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I got a T8 acme lead screw (with four .. something, but I know it's important) set but I am having difficulty figuring out the pitch. Using the prusa calc for lead screws, I am not really sure which one it is. A different Amazon listing for the same type of screw (T8) says 2mm but using calipers I see something closer to less than two (~1.80) but I just might measuring wrong.
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May 10, 2017 15:59
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EVIL Gibson posted:I got a T8 acme lead screw (with four .. something, but I know it's important) set but I am having difficulty figuring out the pitch. This store page shows values to plug into reprap calculator. It says pitch should be 8 (2mm * four starts). You most likely have 1/16 microstepping, so the calculator spits out 400. I checked this against the config on my printer which has the same type of leadscrew for z-axis and it's configured to 406 steps per mm so 400 is probably correct.
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May 10, 2017 16:11
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Looks like you've got over-extrusion. Like I said yesterday, you should calibrate the extruder.
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May 10, 2017 16:16
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I enclosed my very first printer ages ago to help with ABS and it was a disaster because apparently the heat dissipation was borderline as is in a cool workshop, so enclosing extra heat just meant stripped and melted filament. Come to think of it that was what did that printer in 
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May 10, 2017 16:54
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Anyone have a recommendation for asa filament? Seems like everyone like rigid.ink, but there is no US seller?
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May 10, 2017 17:49
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Well, things went wrong. Heating up the hotend to extract the heating element since the abs has welded it inside
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May 10, 2017 20:07
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EVIL Gibson posted:Well, things went wrong. Thats fine, you're going to burn/scrape it all off anyways. I'd switch to holding the heater block and heatsink with 2 pairs of pliers at this point while its heated and just twisting them apart. Yeah it's a mess but you can fix it with a torch lighter and wire brush afterward.
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May 10, 2017 20:13
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