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Gumdrop Larry posted:Are you using the Simple Green concentrate? Outside of some minis that were really old and glopped with that awful Testors-type enamel paint, the concentrate has always worked for me, but one time I accidentally got some regular non-concentrate that basically did gently caress all. It says Concentrated on the bottle, and I haven't diluted it, so it should be good. So far only one mini is working out, and far as I can tell it had no primer underneath the bits of paint on it.
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May 9, 2017 20:41
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theroachman posted:Your taste in miniatures. Also, a NWS warning and spoiler tag would have been nice. Edited for you. I didn't mean to offend with the human body.
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May 9, 2017 20:46
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Munchables posted:It says Concentrated on the bottle, and I haven't diluted it, so it should be good. So far only one mini is working out, and far as I can tell it had no primer underneath the bits of paint on it. Worst comes to worst you could try a rubbing alcohol soak before the simple Green. It *shouldn't* dissolve any of the plastic and will resolubilize some of the paint.
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May 9, 2017 20:49
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Alokgen posted:Edited for you. I didn't mean to offend with the human body. i received a promotion at my job at the titty miniature factory when my boss walked by so im good
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May 9, 2017 21:13
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Cat Face Joe posted:i received a promotion at my job at the titty miniature factory when my boss walked by so im good Your boss must have thought your taste, and my painting skills, are good enough then. Thank them for me.
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May 9, 2017 21:19
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Alokgen posted:Edited for you. I didn't mean to offend with the human body. lol
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May 9, 2017 21:26
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Alokgen posted:Your boss must have thought your taste, and my painting skills, are good enough then. Thank them for me. 
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May 9, 2017 21:27
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Alokgen posted:Edited for you. I didn't mean to offend with the human body. Nobody bitched about my 'zerkers with their dongs hanging out. A travesty.
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May 9, 2017 21:28
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I've taken a very long hiatus from painting. Anybody have any quick resources and videos on painting 15mm and 28mm historicals? Not colors, I have the colors down, but rather actually painting them. Doesn't have to be resources just for historicals but just decent painting guides?
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May 9, 2017 21:32
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Munchables posted:So I've possibly run into an issue. I put probably about 8 minis into a tupperware container with somple green to strip. 4 of them are fully coated in primer, and the others just have a few pieces painted, or they're blue coated marines. They've been in for about 24 hours, but when I tried to scrub off the paint with a toothbrush nothing happened. There are no signs on the minis of the paint coming off either, and they're all plastic. I'll check again in about 12 hours when I get home from work, but is there something I did wrong or missed? IDK i just stripped a bunch of minis using simple green. In the end I left them immersed in it for like 3 days, but even after 1 day the paint should be coming off already; especially if you scrub it with a toothbrush. Paint was coming off mine even without the toothbrush. The outer layers of paint came off first though, so if you only have primer then that won't be as dramatic. Even after 3 days of soak I still had the models half primed. If you need to strip primer then you're going to have to let them soak for several days and really scrub after that. Phi230 posted:I've taken a very long hiatus from painting. Anybody have any quick resources and videos on painting 15mm and 28mm historicals? Not colors, I have the colors down, but rather actually painting them. Doesn't have to be resources just for historicals but just decent painting guides? GW's Duncan is the Bob Ross of miniatures painting. Its not historical but if you just want some quick technique stuff he's amazing. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=enUqWuU-Nns&t=1s
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May 9, 2017 21:51
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Zaphod42 posted:IDK i just stripped a bunch of minis using simple green. In the end I left them immersed in it for like 3 days, but even after 1 day the paint should be coming off already; especially if you scrub it with a toothbrush. Paint was coming off mine even without the toothbrush. Duncan is great. However, I get confused because I see painting techniques that conflict greatly with the teachings of Duncan. Especially when it comes to painting guides for historicals.
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May 9, 2017 22:07
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Phi230 posted:Duncan is great. However, I get confused because I see painting techniques that conflict greatly with the teachings of Duncan. Especially when it comes to painting guides for historicals. The techniques Duncan teaches are great for for Warhammer and other sci-fi or fantasy games. Many of the techniques, especially the highlighting, give a kind of illustration/comic book styling that might not fly if you're going for realism.
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May 9, 2017 22:13
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mango sentinel posted:The techniques Duncan teaches are great for for Warhammer and other sci-fi or fantasy games. Many of the techniques, especially the highlighting, give a kind of illustration/comic book styling that might not fly if you're going for realism. Is there anybody I should watch for more realistic looks or just pick and choose from Duncan.
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May 9, 2017 22:35
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Phi230 posted:Is there anybody I should watch for more realistic looks or just pick and choose from Duncan.
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May 9, 2017 22:42
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Ilor posted:Or you can just do what Duncan does, then hit everything with a brown wash at the end to make it suitably dirty. For most historicals, that should do the trick. It's how I do my ACW and WWII historicals, and it works like gangbusters at both 15mm and 28mm. Are Duncans guides with regards to vehicles and vehicle detail/weathering good? Or does he still go for that cartoony look instead of my T-34 which has gone through hell. My big problem is that all my vehicles that I've painted so far (15mm) look like they've just rolled off the line
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May 9, 2017 22:48
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Phi230 posted:Are Duncans guides with regards to vehicles and vehicle detail/weathering good? Or does he still go for that cartoony look instead of my T-34 which has gone through hell. They're ok. All of his vehicle schemes are limited by two things: The techniques have to be quick and easy. He'll demo very few things that require more than two or three steps. And in my experience with weathering tanks, that's a bare minimum, and often not good enough. He'll only ever show what you can achieve using GW paints (no poo poo). So that rules out pigments, oil washes, airbrushing etc. so it's very limited in its scope. Duncan's videos are *excellent* for what they are- a paint by numbers approach for beginning hobbyists, or experienced hobbyists who want to get an adequate finish very quickly.
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May 9, 2017 23:08
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Yeast posted:They're ok. I don't think I have the tools or expertise for pigments or oil washes. Wanna get an airbrush tho. So now that infantry are covered what are good resources for vehicle painting and weathering? I have some regarding weathering but is basecoating > weathering enough? I really wanna get an airbrush Phi230 fucked around with this message at 23:34 on May 9, 2017 |
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May 9, 2017 23:29
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Yeah I'd just build up layers of different washes and battle damage on top of the basecoat, looks good but depends what you're looking for, if you want dust and mud really caked on there or whatever for historical accuracy. Course you could do that with just some greenstuff, texture paints, or just some spackle or sand or whatever the gently caress...
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May 10, 2017 01:06
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Zaphod42 posted:Yeah I'd just build up layers of different washes and battle damage on top of the basecoat, looks good but depends what you're looking for, if you want dust and mud really caked on there or whatever for historical accuracy. Course you could do that with just some greenstuff, texture paints, or just some spackle or sand or whatever the gently caress... You can layer washes? Doesn't that just clog the details?
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May 10, 2017 01:34
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Phi230 posted:You can layer washes? Doesn't that just clog the details? Multiple Thin Coats
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May 10, 2017 01:42
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Phi230 posted:You can layer washes? Doesn't that just clog the details? You can do like a black wash all over for some shade and grease, and then you can do like a brown wash on the bottom parts to make them look muddy. Stuff like that. Shouldn't clog nah. Washes should be super super super thinned down.
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May 10, 2017 01:49
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Phi230 posted:You can layer washes? Doesn't that just clog the details? Not at all. It deepens the result of the wash. I did 3x Nuln Oil washes on this backpack, didn't clog any of the details at all. You don't even have to thin the washes down (i didn't.) Just make sure they don't pool. 
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May 10, 2017 02:13
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Yeah. When I started out, I used the GW washes straight out of the bottle. It does clog up details. But once you start thinning the washes down further, you'll get to the point where they're hitting the crevices without completely making GBS threads up your details. You can also make your own washes by thinning down regular paints down a bunch.
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May 10, 2017 02:13
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What's the purpose of a wash? I still don't understand.
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May 10, 2017 03:07
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Munchables posted:What's the purpose of a wash? I still don't understand. It fills in all the little details around stuff and gives natural shading. So if you paint say a marine shoulder with all one colour, you can wash it and the wash will pool in the gaps and bits where the pauldron meets the edge and create a nice shade. It works great on high detail areas with loads of joins and gaps. It's also a good way to tone down colour before you highlight for a great result. Many tyranid players would dip their models because painting 100 gaunts is a chore, so they'd base, do a highlight then dip in super thin wash then call it a day.
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May 10, 2017 03:11
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"Dipping" is how I do my WW2 infantry (I actually brush it on because it's less messy, but the end result is the same). It works really well. Observe: For realistic weathering of vehicles, you can't go wrong with Mig Jimenez' tutorials. He's doing stuff at a pretty high level, but if you're willing to give it a try you realize just how easy some of the techniques are. These are a couple of vehicles I did recently:   I had used dry pigments before, but I refined my techniques a little bit on these ones. I also used oil-based washes and oil pigments for the first time, and it turns out it's surprisingly easy to achieve some really neat effects (like the grime and rust streaking). Some of the same chipping, rust, and wear techniques were used here as well:  All of the wear and tear on those barrels is purely paint effects. Trust me when I say it's easier than it looks.
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May 10, 2017 03:30
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Munchables posted:What's the purpose of a wash? I still don't understand. It can magically make your stuff look way better. Just slop a simple base color on everything on a model, then liberally cover in Agrax Earthshade or Nuln Oil. Boom. Instant tabletop quality. You can't do this an expect to win any awards, but for getting a solid looking army done quick nothing beats it.
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May 10, 2017 03:59
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Lord_Hambrose posted:It can magically make your stuff look way better. Just slop a simple base color on everything on a model, then liberally cover in Agrax Earthshade or Nuln Oil. Boom. Instant tabletop quality. If you are effort painting it is a great first stage or last stage as well.
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May 10, 2017 04:00
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Yeah, it is pretty impressive how much better my Orks looked after doing another layer over the wash. You can do a lot of subtle things with them too, as with thinning they get really light. Just takes a million thin coats. I have a friend used to prime white and paint his Skaven with only washes. The effect was actually really cool in a pale pastel way.
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May 10, 2017 04:04
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Munchables posted:What's the purpose of a wash? I still don't understand. Its super super watery, so it runs all over the model, and mostly fills in cracks. So on most of the model it only deposits a small amount of pigment, but in the cracks it builds up. (You want to avoid letting it pool outside of the cracks) This creates shadows and gives your model "depth", and helps your eye see the shape of the smaller details that if flat shaded would kinda run together. Without a wash, shading is a very difficult technique to do by hand. Using the technical medium of a wash lets you put pigment right into the cracks without having to have a super steady hand. Best example I can find in a pinch:  See how you go from black primer, to green basecoat, and then you wash and suddenly the model has this black in all the cracks and edges and creases and makes the green look much... thicker? richer? more real?
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May 10, 2017 04:50
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Better example: Proper use of washes lets you go from the 'before' to the 'after' basically instantly, with almost zero effort.
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May 10, 2017 04:53
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So if I thinned my shade paints enough could I use them as washes?
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May 10, 2017 05:54
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Your shade paints (assuming you're talking about the GW shades) are washes. It's just that they're usually too strong right out of the pot. This is normal with mini paints because it's much easier to thin paints than to thicken them back up, so it makes sense to sell them at the thickest anyone would ever want to use them. You can use them straight out of the pot, but they're going to "stain" the model possibly more than you want, and might not flow as much as you'd like. Thinning them down will make them behave better, even if it might take multiple applications to get the effect you want.
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May 10, 2017 06:06
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JackMann posted:Your shade paints (assuming you're talking about the GW shades) are washes. It's just that they're usually too strong right out of the pot. This is normal with mini paints because it's much easier to thin paints than to thicken them back up, so it makes sense to sell them at the thickest anyone would ever want to use them. You can use them straight out of the pot, but they're going to "stain" the model possibly more than you want, and might not flow as much as you'd like. Thinning them down will make them behave better, even if it might take multiple applications to get the effect you want. Alright I'll give that a try tonight then. I assume I just coat the entire area that I want the wash on instead of just the recesses like a shade?
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May 10, 2017 06:14
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Experiment with it, get a feel for it. One benefit if you coat the entire area: No tide marks where the shade ends. However, even a thinned wash will stain the paint a bit, so you'll want to retouch areas. On the other hand, if you're very careful with the application, you can apply it to the crevices without tide marks. If you're not just slobbing it on, you'll want to make sure to remove most of the paint from your brush, which you should usually do anyway, so you have more control over where it goes.
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May 10, 2017 06:22
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One thing that helps with acrylic washes is to add a drop of floor wax in with the water when you're thinning it. This helps cut the surface tension and eliminates tide marks. You don't need to do this with oil-based washes.
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May 10, 2017 06:28
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Munchables posted:So if I thinned my shade paints enough could I use them as washes? If they're GW shades, they are washes. The terms are synonymous. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tUQsiv41Enw As usual, check out Duncan's videos  Its really just a question of which colors of shade/wash you're using and what you're trying to do with them. You can just toss some nuln oil in the cracks for basic depth, or you can go crazy with layers of blue or green or brown to give different effects. The other type of similar paints are 'glazes' which are similar but a little less runny than a wash and can be good for shading areas or doing lighting effects. Zaphod42 fucked around with this message at 07:53 on May 10, 2017 |
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May 10, 2017 07:51
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I don't thin my shades at all, no mods no masters
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May 10, 2017 08:10
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I don't typically thin my washes either. If they're gunking up your mini, you're using too much. They're already water thin!
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May 10, 2017 10:28
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Friends I have a q: has anyone had experience using the citadel texture paints (or similar) in combination? Like stirland mud with the crackle stuff over it or vice versa?
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May 10, 2017 12:52
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