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Years ago someone posted some skaven plague monks with these awesome looking dirty yellow robes. Does anyone remember what I am talking about and how to recreate the yellow used for them? Thought I might use the method for any cloth on my Death Guard.
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May 11, 2017 18:23
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Does anyone make stencils or decals that are like the dot/line patterns in comic books? https://m.imgur.com/a/aZWSD I don't know how small it could be made until it starts to look too obscure as a texture. Maybe something that would look nice on a ~3x2" baseball card?
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May 11, 2017 18:53
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Painting dirty yellow is probably easiest with oil paints and pigments. Paint up nice, clean, bright yellow. Varnish it. Mix up some Van Dyke Brown or Raw Umber and odorless mineral spirits (white spirits). Slather that all over the yellow, and then walk it back with a cotton bud and mineral spirits. Then, apply your choice of pigments. 
dexefiend fucked around with this message at 20:28 on May 11, 2017 |
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May 11, 2017 19:47
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Chill la Chill posted:Does anyone make stencils or decals that are like the dot/line patterns in comic books? Ben-Day dots. For 28mm, I don't know if you could get small enough and still have it make sense.
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May 11, 2017 20:24
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Re: Stripping/primer, I'm using the GW Chaos Black spray primer, and I applied it too heavily. The 40k thread was impressed by how thick I applied it because it's apparently supposed to go on pretty thin haha. Before I buy, is Super Clean toxic at all, and is it safe to put in a tupperware plastic container? Currently I just have my guys floating in one of those, and I'd like to still be able to do that since it doesn't take up much space. And it won't damage plastic, so that's good.
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May 11, 2017 20:59
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Munchables posted:Re: Stripping/primer, I'm using the GW Chaos Black spray primer, and I applied it too heavily. The 40k thread was impressed by how thick I applied it because it's apparently supposed to go on pretty thin haha. Before I buy, is Super Clean toxic at all, and is it safe to put in a tupperware plastic container? Currently I just have my guys floating in one of those, and I'd like to still be able to do that since it doesn't take up much space. And it won't damage plastic, so that's good. Well, I wouldn't drink it - it is a corrosive liquid. You can, however, put it into a tupperware container with no issues. When working with Super Clean, I wear nitrile gloves - you can get chemical burns (mild, but still...) from prolonged skin contact. At bare minimum, it will make your fingers feel "slimy" because it strips the top layer of skin off. As a degreaser, it will also strip the oils out of your skin, and you don't want that to happen. For disposal, I just leave the lid off and let it evaporate. Side use: It will clean your greasy range hood.
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May 11, 2017 21:12
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dexefiend posted:Painting dirty yellow is probably easiest with oil paints and pigments. That's awesome. Are there any guides that show this technique off?
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May 11, 2017 21:28
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Made some progress on my Aspiring Champion, but I still have the backpack, some detailing, highlights, and basing to finish up.Any words of wisdom? I haven't quite decided how i want to fill in the breastplate details. I keep going back and forth on how to do the eyes on it, and would love suggestions. I'm planning on making some Alpha Legion marines out of Dark Angel Veterans and MKIII marine bits, and I've got a box of cultists to use as well. Shadow War Armageddon gave me an excuse to paint small and diverse forces, and I'm running with it.
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May 11, 2017 21:35
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berzerkmonkey posted:Ben-Day dots. For 28mm, I don't know if you could get small enough and still have it make sense. Thanks for the name. I was planning to use it for larger murals, around vehicle size.
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May 11, 2017 21:38
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Nebalebadingdong posted:Assuming it wasn't over-primed and that you make sure to really clean all the stripper off of it, would the primer still be okay to use? Yes, I recently did this where I stripped everything down to primer, then re-primed in a different color, then kept painting layers on top, and it was fine. The thing is Munchables did go way overboard on primer so he's having a unique problem. Gooch181 posted:Made some progress on my Aspiring Champion, but I still have the backpack, some detailing, highlights, and basing to finish up.Any words of wisdom? I haven't quite decided how i want to fill in the breastplate details. I keep going back and forth on how to do the eyes on it, and would love suggestions. IDK this looks pretty good already  Those are very clean eyes as-is
Zaphod42 fucked around with this message at 21:41 on May 11, 2017 |
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May 11, 2017 21:38
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Yeast posted:I've bought a paint shaker, because gently caress me they need it. I could almost need a paint shaker for some of my GW paints. Feels like I'm wearing out my arm trying to get some of them back in liquidy form even with splashing in some water. Need to find a place that sells pipettes as well I think.
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May 11, 2017 21:48
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Zaphod42 posted:IDK this looks pretty good already Thanks! I was referring to what looks like a pair of eyes on his chest, right to either side of his medallion. I can't decide what color to fill them in with!
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May 11, 2017 21:52
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Gooch181 posted:Thanks! I was referring to what looks like a pair of eyes on his chest, right to either side of his medallion. I can't decide what color to fill them in with! Ohhh I gotcha. I mean I think the metallic blue/green alpha you got going on looks good as-is, and its questionable how much of that will be seen at table height anyways. But if you want to highlight those eyes, when it comes to alpha for me the answer is easy: bright, bright green. Where was that alpha model somebody posted awhile back with the really bright tentacles... Gooch181 posted:I decided I wanted to make a Chaos kill team for Shadow War Armageddon, and I really like the color scheme for Alpha Legion. I spent yesterday doing a test run on an aspiring champion; I'm overall happy with it, but want to work the green into the scheme more to make it more obviously Alpha Legion. Any suggestions for working more green in, or just overall improvement? I'm considering coloring the helmet green since most of it is blue. I probably should have painted some spare space marines as test models. Hah, that was you. I liked the green here! But there was another model I was thinking about too...
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May 11, 2017 22:02
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Can anyone explain dipping to me? I found a video on youtube where a guy just dipped his model in some kind of polyurethane shade and spun it around with a drill.
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May 11, 2017 22:39
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Phi230 posted:Can anyone explain dipping to me? I found a video on youtube where a guy just dipped his model in some kind of polyurethane shade and spun it around with a drill. Paint the flats on your model. Dip your model in wood stain or Army Painter shade can. Flick the excess off in a cardboard box. You've got quick, basic tabletop quality shaded and finished model. Lots of people use this method for quick painting hordes like Tyranid or zombies.
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May 11, 2017 22:53
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bonds0097 posted:What Shaker did you buy? Amazon has a seemingly popular one but motor seems to fail sometimes? I like the idea of being a non-savage and having a paint Shaker. I bought the one with the 'sometimes fails' motor. I'm taking my chances, but it's cheap enough that I don't really care if it doesn't last for years, hopefully something else will come up! https://robart.com/collections/hobby-tools-paint-shakers/products/hobby-paint-shaker-battery I'm also waiting for my local flgs to get actuators back in stock for the bottles. I'll probably get glass as I don't really need the weight of stainless with a shaker doing the hard work. Cooked Auto posted:I could almost need a paint shaker for some of my GW paints. Feels like I'm wearing out my arm trying to get some of them back in liquidy form even with splashing in some water. I'd also put in a tiny bit of either airbrush flow improver, or something similar. just a drop or two each time you need to re-energize the paint. berzerkmonkey posted:
Thanks man! A lot of the heavy lifting was done by their 'inktensity' green, which stains the colour underneath and makes it absurdly strong. You can buy them individually or in a pack; http://scale75.com/en/scalecolor-range/182-inktensity.html
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May 11, 2017 23:21
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If "actuator" means "stainless steel ball" then go to https://www.mcmaster.com and get it for much cheaper.
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May 11, 2017 23:31
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Beer4TheBeerGod posted:If "actuator" means "stainless steel ball" then go to https://www.mcmaster.com and get it for much cheaper. I would but,  It's all good, they stock 200 for $5 or something, so it's fine.
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May 11, 2017 23:36
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Beer4TheBeerGod posted:That's awesome. Are there any guides that show this technique off? I will try and write one a little more detailed. Edit: even better, here is the tutorial that inspired me: http://www.discountgamesinc.com/blog/the-hobby-corner-16/ dexefiend fucked around with this message at 00:27 on May 12, 2017 |
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May 12, 2017 00:04
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Yeast posted:I'd also put in a tiny bit of either airbrush flow improver, or something similar. just a drop or two each time you need to re-energize the paint. Would GW's Lahmian Medium be good for this or am I looking for more proper stuff in this case? I do have a bunch of actuator steel balls actually but I'm not sure they're good for citadel paints and more VMC.
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May 12, 2017 00:28
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Cooked Auto posted:Would GW's Lahmian Medium be good for this or am I looking for more proper stuff in this case? Nah, Lahmian medium is just the exact resin compound thats already in the paint, minus the pigment. You're after something that will actually thin/improve the movement of the pigment through the pot. - So thinners/flow improvers / water
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May 12, 2017 00:41
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I have two battlewagons. One is significantly lighter than the other. I like how the lighter one looks. Any ideas on how to fix the darker one? 
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May 12, 2017 00:52
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Beer4TheBeerGod posted:I have two battlewagons. One is significantly lighter than the other. I like how the lighter one looks. Any ideas on how to fix the darker one?
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May 12, 2017 00:56
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I have a butt load of Marines and want to try out a Marines Malevolent army. Do you guys have any recommendations for painting yellow (both dudes and vehicles)? My tentative plan was a tan undercoat, hitting the upper surfaces with an off-white, hitting the edges with white, doing a thinned wash of a sepia color, and then hitting the whole model with a yellow ink pass. Reviewing my collection it seems like the majority of GW paint pots have dried out (except of course for the pots originally made by Coat d'Arms in the 90s which are still going great) so I'm not afraid to start over with better paints. What's changed paint wise since 2014?
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May 12, 2017 00:58
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Pierzak posted:Get red pigment the color of the lighter one, put it on as dust/rust. Any recommendations for a source of pigment and a guide? I haven't worked with that much
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May 12, 2017 00:59
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  15mm Soviet Platoon. Wanna know if I should do anything else/fix anything/restart before I varnish them. Gonna paint the bases too before varnish, the pumice I'm using on the actual bases is still setting so can't glue them on yet.
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May 12, 2017 01:14
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Beer4TheBeerGod posted:I have a butt load of Marines and want to try out a Marines Malevolent army. Do you guys have any recommendations for painting yellow (both dudes and vehicles)? Scale 75 paints are pretty much what I am switching too. They make lots of good colors, but I fell in love with the colored metallics immediately. They do have a tendency to separate so you gotta shake the hell out of them.
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May 12, 2017 02:06
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Yeast posted:You're after something that will actually thin/improve the movement of the pigment through the pot. - So thinners/flow improvers / water Aight, I'll keep that in mind then.
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May 12, 2017 02:57
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Are there any strong opinions on the Army Painter lines? I dug out my paints, and virtually all my old GW pots are dried out, and Army Painter seems to be the most common alternative line carried by shops in my area.
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May 12, 2017 03:17
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Lord_Hambrose posted:Scale 75 paints are pretty much what I am switching too. They make lots of good colors, but I fell in love with the colored metallics immediately. They do have a tendency to separate so you gotta shake the hell out of them. What's the difference between the ranges?
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May 12, 2017 03:23
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Funzo posted:Are there any strong opinions on the Army Painter lines? I dug out my paints, and virtually all my old GW pots are dried out, and Army Painter seems to be the most common alternative line carried by shops in my area. My experience is mostly their starter set and washes set. The washes/shades are definitely pretty good and commonly recommended as a replacement for GW's washes. As for the paints the plate mail metallic was nice; very fine flaked and good coverage. Most of the other colors seemed a bit light on pigment load and can take a fair amount of layers to get consistent. Blues are pretty decent and their matte black is quite strongly pigmented.
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May 12, 2017 03:34
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Drake_263 posted:Honestly, I'd just slap a new primer on just to be safe. 3rd from left is my vote
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May 12, 2017 03:45
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Alright, I've transferred my models to LA's Awesome, and we'll see how that goes. In the meantime, tonight I painted model number 4 and 5, one was just a normal tactical marine, the other is this little guy:     There's a few spots of smudging, especially around the sun on the shoulder, those tendrils are difficult, and on the shoulder trims. This guy was really fun, and I love the look, but I think I need to figure out a different color to put into the large shoulder, or put something on the legs. Wish my phone camera was better.
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May 12, 2017 10:25
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Here's hoping Cat Face Joe gets another promotion at work. NSFW because of "taste" https://chreemills.artstation.com/projects/XEvdl
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May 12, 2017 12:22
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Beer4TheBeerGod posted:What's the difference between the ranges? The main difference is their original paint line is normal colors, and now they have a Fantasy line where they are doing some more unusual colors with heavier pigment but mostly just have more goofball names. The Alchemy stuff is all colored metals which are amazing. The metals I have uses have pretty great coverage for the most part. The Inktensity line is supposed to be "the thing" with regards to ink washes but I have never personally used one. The main thing to know is you have to poke a hole in the top of the bottle to unseal it before use. I have heard horror stories about people squeezing a fresh bottle without that critical step taken.
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May 12, 2017 12:47
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My boy, Mortibris, is ready to command my Kings of War skeleton army. If I ever get around to making it, that is. I think I'll enter this one in Mantic's current painting competition, because why the hell not? Just noticed that I forgot to add a little color to his lips, so I'll do that first.  
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May 12, 2017 13:28
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Phi230 posted:Can anyone explain dipping to me? I found a video on youtube where a guy just dipped his model in some kind of polyurethane shade and spun it around with a drill. In addition to what Mango posted, watch Sorastro's Zombicide painting video(s): https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LMOTmOchKyQ (He gets to the dipping specific part at about 13 minutes in.) This is all you need to know about "dipping" (which isn't really dipping anymore, since it's so drat messy and wasteful.)
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May 12, 2017 14:15
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Lord_Hambrose posted:The main difference is their original paint line is normal colors, and now they have a Fantasy line where they are doing some more unusual colors with heavier pigment but mostly just have more goofball names. Is the Fantasy range still ultra-matte? I didn't see any labels claiming it was, so I didn't buy any 
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May 12, 2017 14:25
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Munchables posted:Alright, I've transferred my models to LA's Awesome, and we'll see how that goes. In the meantime, tonight I painted model number 4 and 5, one was just a normal tactical marine, the other is this little guy: See, man? I told you, the more you practice, the easier it gets. With you posting each model you're doing, it's clear to see how much you've improved even in such a short amount of time.  As for scheme changes, it looks like you tried a colored kneepad on the stormcast powerclaw dude. I can see where you're coming from with that, but it just seems like a bad shadow in your pictures (which may just be a side effect of how you're taking pics, no big). What you could do, or at least what I'd do if I were doing a scheme like that, is to basically treat the purple as covering over the gold, like you have on your arms. I spent 10,000 years in paint just to show you this:  Yeah, it does cut down on the gold a little bit from the original scheme, but it keeps the purple on the appendages you've already established, and it gives you something to do with the legs other than "gold all over".
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May 12, 2017 15:04
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Alokgen posted:Here's hoping Cat Face Joe gets another promotion at work. those guild ball bases are siiiiiiiiick
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May 12, 2017 15:59
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