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Colostomy Bag posted:I assume this is in the GM museum. Buahahahahahahahah. Nope those loving roaches still putt around my town all the time. And my shop Is one of the few places that will still work on older cars. Older being pre obd
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May 9, 2017 03:20
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InitialDave posted:Hahahahahaha Come at me  
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May 9, 2017 03:33
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Uthor posted:I also use a bit of anti-seize so the wheels don't stick to the hubs. I assume you mean on the hub, not the lug threads. This is just a PSA saying don't put that poo poo on the threads in case anybody saw that and thought that.
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May 9, 2017 16:40
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Larrymer posted:I assume you mean on the hub, not the lug threads. This is just a PSA saying don't put that poo poo on the threads in case anybody saw that and thought that. A little bit of neversieze on the lugs won't hurt a thing, if your torques are proper. Plus, it keeps the threads from galling/corroding to poo poo, for those of us in rusty areas. No, your wheels aren't going to fall off. I've done it for over 20 years and I've never even had a properly-torqued nut even loosen, much less anything worse.
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May 9, 2017 16:50
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EVERYWHERE 
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clam ache posted:Just change the oil on a cavalier with the OHV and you will see why channel locks dont always work. Or driving a screwdriver through it. Those ratchet attachements for filters are amazing. hF has a version that sucks. Craftsman makes one of the best and lisle has a similar offering. IIRC, this is the one that has the oil filter directly above the exhaust flex joint, right? What a stupid decision.
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May 9, 2017 16:55
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Larrymer posted:I assume you mean on the hub, not the lug threads. This is just a PSA saying don't put that poo poo on the threads in case anybody saw that and thought that. As Meatpimp said, anti-seize on the threads is not a significant issue. Typically the torque values have a big enough range in the spec anyways. Most of the clamping force comes from the surface between the lug nut and the wheel, so try to keep that clean.
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May 9, 2017 17:23
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angryrobots posted:Come at me
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May 9, 2017 17:24
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I know what ya meant, just taking the opportunity to post my redneck crank pulley holder. And fortunately I've never ripped an oil filter, though I have boogered up a couple proper getting them loose.
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May 9, 2017 17:46
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Larrymer posted:I assume you mean on the hub, not the lug threads. This is just a PSA saying don't put that poo poo on the threads in case anybody saw that and thought that. I always make sure to put anti seize on the threads, that way the lug nuts don't seize onto the threads  Never had any looseness issues and it makes tire rotations so much easier. I've never had to use more than a breaker bar or my electric impact to remove lug nuts even though I live in the rustbelt.
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May 9, 2017 19:38
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OSU_Matthew posted:I always make sure to put anti seize on the threads, that way the lug nuts don't seize onto the threads Me too. A little on the threads, and a bunch on the hub face to keep the dissimilar metals of the wheel/hub from welding themselves together.
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May 9, 2017 20:20
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Generally, you should use threaded fasteners clean and dry unless specifically instructed otherwise. You probably won't hurt anything if you're sensible, but be aware you're changing the relationship between tightening torque and clamping force by about 10% or so depending on what you use.
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May 9, 2017 20:42
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wallaka posted:IIRC, this is the one that has the oil filter directly above the exhaust flex joint, right? What a stupid decision. Yes but then it's tucked under the intake manifold between the crank sensor and transmission. So if you slip with a wrench be prepared to replace it because there GM platic and break when you give them a side eye.
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May 10, 2017 01:41
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Can anyone recommend a good and cheap dye set for our shop press?
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May 10, 2017 03:43
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always be closing posted:Can anyone recommend a good and cheap dye set for our shop press? What color?
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May 10, 2017 04:25
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Hue hue hue
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May 10, 2017 04:38
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What sizes? There are cheap ones out there, but they kinda suck.
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May 10, 2017 05:04
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I sprayed Fluid Film all over my steel wheels front and back when I bought my car new. That poo poo is nasty smelly, I think it's made of lanolin, but the wheels still look freaking perfect 3 years later. More importantly they don't stick to the hubs. VEGANS HATE THIS ONE NEAT TRICK. Some fastener engineer would probably be mad at us for putting antisieze on the lugs though. I read a very interesting rant about rotor clamping and over tightening the lugs somewhere, but I can't remember where for the life of me. All I know is it scared me into precisely torquing the wheels every time.
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May 10, 2017 05:17
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The specs should be written with the expectation that everyone uses antiseize. 
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May 10, 2017 05:23
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sharkytm posted:What sizes? There are cheap ones out there, but they kinda suck. Not sure, I'm on my phone, but front wheel bearings on an s10, and a sensor ac pulley bearing.
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May 10, 2017 06:52
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0toShifty posted:I sprayed Fluid Film all over my steel wheels front and back when I bought my car new. That poo poo is nasty smelly, I think it's made of lanolin, but the wheels still look freaking perfect 3 years later. More importantly they don't stick to the hubs. VEGANS HATE THIS ONE NEAT TRICK. Fluid Film is the poo poo. I use it on lots of stuff, including on boats. We spray the hydraulic line ends with it where they can't be protected with glue-lined heatshrink, and so long as you reapply every 3-6 months, it keeps the steel from rusting. The smell, well, you get used to that. It also works great on snowblower parts, it keeps the snow from sticking in the chute or in the impeller, and keeps rust at bay. always be closing posted:Not sure, I'm on my phone, but front wheel bearings on an s10, and a sensor ac pulley bearing. If they're one-time things, I'd just use an appropriate-size impact socket.
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May 10, 2017 13:51
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Seminal Flu posted:A little bit of neversieze on the lugs won't hurt a thing, if your torques are proper. Plus, it keeps the threads from galling/corroding to poo poo, for those of us in rusty areas. InitialDave posted:Generally, you should use threaded fasteners clean and dry unless specifically instructed otherwise. This is what I mean. Your "torques" won't be proper since you're changing the friction coefficient with the anti-seize. So essentially you're over torquing your lugs and may be stretching/yielding the lug studs.  I've never had a lug seize and I tighten them to the correct amount dry. Most are enclosed and I have mine off often enough it's not a big deal. 0toShifty posted:Some 
Suburban Dad fucked around with this message at 17:05 on May 10, 2017 |
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May 10, 2017 17:02
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Platystemon posted:The specs should be written with the expectation that everyone uses antiseize.
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May 10, 2017 17:26
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Platystemon posted:The specs should be written with the expectation that everyone uses antiseize. Specs should be written explicitly calling out anti-seize or dry torque, not relying on what people's expectations might be.
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May 10, 2017 18:12
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Larrymer posted:This is what I mean. Your "torques" won't be proper since you're changing the friction coefficient with the anti-seize. So essentially you're over torquing your lugs and may be stretching/yielding the lug studs. I'll put my lugs with a bit of loctite installed using torque sticks against a shop using the brap brap until the braping stops any day.
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May 10, 2017 18:17
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0toShifty posted:Some fastener engineer would probably be mad at us for putting antisieze on the lugs though. I'm of the opinion that most designs and torque specs aren't taking the lug studs/bolts anywhere near their limits, so you can likely get away with quite a bit of variation without coming a cropper, but that's not the same as a broad "yeah, it's fine".
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May 10, 2017 18:18
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Uthor posted:Specs should be written explicitly calling out anti-seize or dry torque, not relying on what people's expectations might be. They should have designed the wheels to be secure whether the lugs are finger tight or brapped for a solid ten seconds. 
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May 10, 2017 18:19
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Boys who love boys
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Anyone have any opinions on a good set of plastic interior trim panel removal tools? I'm looking at a bunch of highly reviewed sets on amazon and they seem more or less identical, is that the case?
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May 10, 2017 19:14
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i have the harbor freight ones and they're OK for how cheap they are. if you have an expensive car or will remove interior panels often its probably better to spend some money for higher quality ones but i just dont care thaaaaaat much
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May 10, 2017 19:27
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I bought a set from China on eBay 2 years ago for like $5, 7 pieces and it's been great.
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May 10, 2017 19:29
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Seconding the harbor freight set. Super cheap and get the job done.
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May 10, 2017 20:05
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Big Taint posted:Pretty sure on a Cavalier you're not supposed to change the oil and the rest of the car is knackered by the time the engine seizes. A girl I know had a mid-90s Cavalier. 2 years ago she bought a CRV when the cavalier was at something like 500,000KMs. She gave it to her uncle who still uses it as his daily driver. My friend (who is her brother in law) and I basically were mouth agaped when she said the KMs on it and that the only work it ever had done was brakes and fluid changes. I still see it around town periodically.
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May 10, 2017 20:11
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sharkytm posted:Fluid Film is the poo poo. I use it on lots of stuff, including on boats. We spray the hydraulic line ends with it where they can't be protected with glue-lined heatshrink, and so long as you reapply every 3-6 months, it keeps the steel from rusting. The smell, well, you get used to that. It also works great on snowblower parts, it keeps the snow from sticking in the chute or in the impeller, and keeps rust at bay. I have the undercoating fluid film kit and its amazing. As is the thick grease version. We pressure wash all our equipment a few times a week, and then hose it down with fluid film. Tracked equipment is a maintenance nightmare, but that poo poo makes it at least moderately easier. I even use it for leather treatment on my work boots. Also a good dielectric for snowplows/block heater plugs, etc.
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May 12, 2017 03:08
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Hypnolobster posted:I have the undercoating fluid film kit and its amazing. As is the thick grease version. We pressure wash all our equipment a few times a week, and then hose it down with fluid film. Tracked equipment is a maintenance nightmare, but that poo poo makes it at least moderately easier. Agreed. Careful around some rubber, it'll soften some of it.
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May 12, 2017 12:48
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Any way to keep Li-ion batteries cool during heavy use? I learned how to keep the electric motor cool, but my 18v ryobi angle grinder is overheating its batteries in half an hour or so of use Or should I pick up some Ni-Cad batteries instead?
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May 12, 2017 19:39
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Just dunk it in a bucket of ice water every now and again.
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May 12, 2017 20:05
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NiCd batteries won't overheat because they'll be dead before they get that hot Also, if you've never used a NiCd power tool, you've never understood why some people were universally anti-cordless until the current crop of lithium tools. If you're managing to run a lithium battery so hard that the tool is shutting down due to thermal protection, just get a second battery and swap.
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May 12, 2017 20:09
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Well, that's a frustrating answer, but I suppose that it's the trade-off for not needing a compressor And I've never even seen a 12/18v Ni-Cad battery before, but for whatever reason, my charger and tools are compatible. I know that they're less heat sensitive, but I guess that there's a reason I've never seen one...
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May 12, 2017 20:25
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Get a corded grinder, some jobs are still best with corded tools. Running for 30+ minutes at very high amps is pretty intense for any battery (exceot maybe a big sealed lead acid battery). Those cordless grinders, despite all the marketing claims, are probably more designed for quick jobs like taking some rust off a part or cutting a tube in half. I bet if you read the manual it even says there's a limit to the runtime before thermal issues like you're seeing.
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May 12, 2017 21:06
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mod sassinator posted:Those cordless grinders, despite all the marketing claims, are probably more designed for quick jobs like taking some rust off a part or I second this, though. I killed my Bosch Li-Ion "sawzall", bought an own-brand corded one for half as much, and it's a lot more useful.
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May 12, 2017 21:17
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I do like my cordless sawzaaawwww for cutting branches and poo poo out in the yard.
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May 12, 2017 21:30
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