|
I've been planning on doing some touring again, and it would be nice to get into some more isolated areas, possibly where there's not gas available within my bike's ~120 mile range. Figuring out how to carry extra fuel is an issue, since I don't want to shell out for Rotopax or the other kind of pricey systems out there. It's preferable to have extra fuel somewhere outside the saddlebags, because 1.) if I ever do need it, I won't want to root around in my bags on the side of the road and 2.) I don't want my clothes and food and stuff to stink of gasoline if/when it vents or spills. What I ultimately came up with is a couple ABS tubes with cleanout caps, mounted to my ammo can with river straps. I picked up a few mending brackets and the associated hardware because I couldn't find small strap brackets at Home Depot. This was probably cheaper and will work just as well.  With a nut in between the bracket and the lid of the ammo can, there's enough clearance for the river strap. I siliconed the holes inside the lid around the bolt and washer.  The brackets could be used for anything when I don't have the fuel tubes mounted.  The tubes are 3" ABS with a flat end cap. With the cleanout cap in, there's about 10.5" inside, which should be plenty of room for any fuel canister smaller than a 1.0 L MSR can (those are 3.2" in diameter and I didn't want to deal with 4" tubes). The tubes are cross drilled to allow any venting gas to escape, and keep air flowing so the internal temperature isn't too crazy in the desert in the summer. Any excess space will be stuffed with rags or foam or something.   Lid still functions just fine with them in place. 
|
#
?
Apr 30, 2017 06:47
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 10, 2024 12:23 |
|
|
HenryJLittlefinger posted:I've been planning on doing some touring again, and it would be nice to get into some more isolated areas, possibly where there's not gas available within my bike's ~120 mile range. Figuring out how to carry extra fuel is an issue, since I don't want to shell out for Rotopax or the other kind of pricey systems out there. It's preferable to have extra fuel somewhere outside the saddlebags, because 1.) if I ever do need it, I won't want to root around in my bags on the side of the road and 2.) I don't want my clothes and food and stuff to stink of gasoline if/when it vents or spills. What I ultimately came up with is a couple ABS tubes with cleanout caps, mounted to my ammo can with river straps. Looks good. If you ever need extra fuel, don't forget that you can just fill a couple 2Ls and strap them on. No good long term, but just fine for one ride.
|
|
#
?
Apr 30, 2017 12:20
|
|
|
Great the bike out on Friday for the first time in about 2 weeks. First ride to work of the season, and I left later than I normally like, but still on track to hit the office by 9. Was a bit chilly so I turned the heated grips on, and quickly killed the battery! Would start, but not idle. I could pin the throttle above 4K and it would run, so I decide to cut my losses and head home. I'd only gone about 2km, so I figured if I could get home while gunning the throttle I'd just leave it and take transit in. Managed to noisily get it home, and found that it was back to idling normally again. So I turned around and just rode it to work  Put the battery on the charger when I got home, and it was topped up in a few minutes. So, lesson learned.
|
|
#
?
Apr 30, 2017 18:17
|
|
|
Fork seals. I'm having a surreal experience with this new bike. The previous owner was a very conscientious responsible person and took care of the bike and installed useful mods on it. Has anyone ever seen this before? It's a new one for me. So far I've done a lot of maintenance poo poo to it and discovered that in almost every case the poo poo I was about to do had already been done. Went in to replace the timing chain/tensioner/rail, the chain was already replaced. Tensioner/rail weren't so I went ahead anyway. Went in to replace some broken ignition parts and discovered it had an aftermarket charging system installed which I had previously planned to install. Went in to do the fork seals, figured it would be a good idea to throw some new progressive springs in there, it already had progressive springs in it. Auxiliary LED brake lights in the back already there. Foam padding on the luggage rails so the plastic bags don't rattle around. Corbin seat.
|
|
#
?
May 1, 2017 01:40
|
|
|
Rev. Dr. Moses P. Lester posted:Fork seals. This is it. This is everyone's white whale.
|
|
#
?
May 1, 2017 02:13
|
|
|
The fact that it's an ancient BMW makes it less  than it normally would be. Everyone I've ever met with one of those was over 50 and anal to the point of lunacy about every little thing.
|
|
#
?
May 1, 2017 03:25
|
|
|
I didn't read the instuctions.  New type of chain oil I've not used before, missed the bit with "wait 15-20 mins after applying before you ride to let it settle"
|
|
#
?
May 1, 2017 14:24
|
|
|
Left my key in the bike, lights on, for about 20 hours leaving it flat. Outside too, I'm surprised it wasn't taken. I guess there's a first for everything.. how bad is this for batteries? It was on the tender the entire time but it wasn't enough obviously. I used a jump starter and it started up but wouldn't maintain, to no surprise.
|
|
#
?
May 1, 2017 21:04
|
|
|
Schroeder91 posted:Left my key in the bike, lights on, for about 20 hours leaving it flat. Outside too, I'm surprised it wasn't taken. I guess there's a first for everything.. how bad is this for batteries? It was on the tender the entire time but it wasn't enough obviously. I used a jump starter and it started up but wouldn't maintain, to no surprise. If your tender has a test function and you have time for it, let that run fully. More than likely you didn't harm anything, I'd just not try to do anything but trickle charge it.
|
|
#
?
May 1, 2017 21:09
|
|
|
If it's a regular lead acid battery it's probably fine, albeit with a slightly lower life expectancy now.
|
|
#
?
May 2, 2017 01:02
|
|
|
My rat-rear end track bike started overheating in traffic. Got home and checked the radiator fan, it's getting no power. Check fuse and it's good. Check fuse plug and it's dead. Now I get to chase an electrical gremlin. Joy.
|
|
#
?
May 2, 2017 01:36
|
|
|
Well that's good I guess. Charged it for 3 hours and rushed to work to throw it back on the tender.
|
|
#
?
May 2, 2017 02:55
|
|
|
Took it to the shop  . $400 to replace my cam chain tensioner, speed sensor, oil change and purchase and install a new rear tire. Fine. With. Me.
|
|
#
?
May 3, 2017 17:09
|
|
|
Shadowlz posted:Took it to the shop  that's pretty good. I don't even think I could get all those parts for less than that.
|
|
#
?
May 3, 2017 20:49
|
|
|
GriszledMelkaba posted:Just get comprehensive insurance This, I had a 1000 dollar deductible when my XR650L was stolen out of my locked open apartment garage after three weeks. Now I have a $100 on my 06 FZ1 and its been fine for months.
|
|
#
?
May 3, 2017 21:22
|
|
|
GnarlyCharlie4u posted:
In honesty I alright had the CCT and sensor. I was going to do the CCT myself until I pulled the tank off and realized one bolt has frame right in front of it. The internet shows some crazy way to do it by taking the coolent tank out, putting a 3 foot extender on the wrench and come from the back but  . Since I needed a new tire I figured I would just get it all done there.I got the sensor and CCT + gaskets for about $150 total. Tire is $170 plus $56 for mounting. $190 for the sensor and CCT install plus the oil change.
|
|
#
?
May 3, 2017 23:36
|
|
|
 Got it up to working enough order to use it this weekend. Found a piece of PO fuckery. the button pod with the start/cutoff and light switch on the right hand side on the handlebar was a little loose. I noticed that one screw was unoriginal. it was a short M6 screw. it should have been a halv inch longer m5 screw. As it was, only one screw actually held the top part of the pod down, the other just threaded into the plastic in the bottow part, not actually holding on to anything. Swapped to the correct screw. Removed and replaced some slotted screws and some normal nuts+ washers to proper rubber sleeved fairing captive nuts. Need to find some stepped m5 screws to replace some random screws. Needing 2 different bits to remove a fairing panel is stupid.
|
|
#
?
May 5, 2017 09:41
|
|
|
The most involved tail tidy install I've ever done. That's the last thing I should have to touch on this bike now for the rest of the season. Break in should be done this weekend too.  #bear acer
|
|
#
?
May 6, 2017 01:11
|
|
|
Installed a high tech gel /heated seat
|
|
#
?
May 6, 2017 16:45
|
|
|
I installed Delkevic slip-ons on the ex500, correcting the only thing I was disappointed about by starting on a beginner bike. I also quickly reinstalled the baffles, as it was loving obnoxious without them. Then I fixed the front brake switch (wasn't actuating the tail light), changed the oil, and lubed the chain. Bike maintenance is so relaxing  No one told me about that part.
|
|
#
?
May 7, 2017 05:31
|
|
|
With some help I set the sag, and adjust the suspension on my twenty year old CBR this weekend. Over all it went well, but the front forks still feel like poo poo. If I get a good handful of the front brake, I'm bottoming out every time. Now, I really have no idea the last time that shocks have been rebuilt. I do know that the oil was changed, but that's all. I've gone ahead and ordered a seal in bushing kit to rebuild the front forks. Do you guys think that would be sufficient or should I go ahead and purchase upgraded springs too? I honestly have very little knowledge when it comes to motorcycle suspensions, so any suggestions are welcome.
|
|
#
?
May 8, 2017 15:59
|
|
|
You should upgrade the springs as well for sure. Bottoming won't be fixed with fresh fluid alone.
|
|
#
?
May 8, 2017 16:26
|
|
|
If you're taking apart a USD fork you might as well replace the springs while you're in there
|
|
#
?
May 8, 2017 16:29
|
|
|
They're standard forks, not inverted. I found some RaceTech springs, but not sure what I want. I'm about 175 lbs, do no clue how that converts to spring specs. RaceTech Fork Spring 1.00 KG/MM F/ Buell Duc Honda CBR VFR Kaw Suz Triumph Yam https://www.amazon.com/dp/B006LCEYAS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_1fjezbKY81DCB No. 6 fucked around with this message at 16:42 on May 8, 2017 |
|
#
?
May 8, 2017 16:35
|
|
|
Then it'll be even easier to replace the springs! Like Z3n said, if you're bottoming the forks just replacing fluid won't fix it unless there's no fluid in the fork now.
|
|
#
?
May 8, 2017 16:44
|
|
|
No. 6 posted:They're standard forks, not inverted. Racetech has a spring rate calculator on their website.
|
|
#
?
May 8, 2017 17:14
|
|
|
Thanks. Just ordered a set based on my load.
|
|
#
?
May 8, 2017 18:36
|
|
|
No. 6 posted:Thanks. Just ordered a set based on my load. F2? F3? F2's are damper rod forks, F3's are cartridge, not sure if the model number and spring rates would be the same between them. Some F2's were modified with F3 internals, a common mod back then. No telling what you might find when you dig into those forks. That said, FWIW I run .85 Racetechs with GVE's on my street-only Hawk GT (damper rod) and it is just about right. I'm 190lbs.
|
|
#
?
May 8, 2017 23:11
|
|
|
Hnnng, I really need to order emulators and 1kg/mm springs for the SV. Maybe after I finish selling all the keytags I'll take that money and throw it at the bike.
|
|
#
?
May 8, 2017 23:39
|
|
|
Gorson posted:F2? F3? F2's are damper rod forks, F3's are cartridge, not sure if the model number and spring rates would be the same between them. Some F2's were modified with F3 internals, a common mod back then. No telling what you might find when you dig into those forks. That said, FWIW I run .85 Racetechs with GVE's on my street-only Hawk GT (damper rod) and it is just about right. I'm 190lbs. It's an F3 and it's a track bike. I hope their website tool is accurate. Guess I'll find out soon.
|
|
#
?
May 9, 2017 00:14
|
|
|
Tried to register my new-to-me 1976 Goldwing. The DMV lady said the VIN didn't have enough digits, then gave me a completely vacant stare when I said it was from 1976 and standardized VINs hadn't been invented yet, and yes, that VIN is accurate. She told me to go to the DMV inspector's office with the bike to have the VIN professionally looked at. Whatever. Then I fixed the fuel gauge. The nuts holding one of the wires on the gauge had rattled off the bottom sometime in the past five years or so. The PO said the gauge was intermittent. New M4 nuts and washers and I won't run out of gas again.
|
|
#
?
May 9, 2017 02:01
|
|
|
Sold it. RIP 2006 VFR. Gets picked up tomorrow.
|
|
#
?
May 11, 2017 03:22
|
|
|
So long unneccassary VTEC
|
|
#
?
May 11, 2017 04:04
|
|
|
New tires! Put some Michelin Pilot Streets on the Ex500
|
|
#
?
May 11, 2017 06:44
|
|
|
No. 6 posted:So long unneccassary VTEC
|
|
#
?
May 11, 2017 16:44
|
|
|
Finished up the catch cans on the supermoto. The flask didn't really fit anywhere nicely, so I went with RC airplane fuel tanks and a WR-inspired oil breather trap.  
|
|
#
?
May 12, 2017 17:27
|
|
|
Did the first service on my Tuono. Yummy metallic break in oil  IDK what fucker put my oil filter on but it was super over tightened and I had to stab it with a screwdriver and make a mess getting it off. This is why I do my own work 
|
|
#
?
May 12, 2017 22:07
|
|
|
Slim Pickens posted:Finished up the catch cans on the supermoto. The flask didn't really fit anywhere nicely, so I went with RC airplane fuel tanks and a WR-inspired oil breather trap. Does that coolant bottle act as a true recovery system or would you need to change to a different kind of cap for that?
|
|
#
?
May 13, 2017 02:48
|
|
|
 finished putting this together so i can race it sunday. brand new top end, not broken in, smoked p bad, lol
|
|
#
?
May 13, 2017 03:08
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 10, 2024 12:23 |
|
|
EX250 Type R posted:
Nothing like a race for seating your piston rings.
|
|
#
?
May 13, 2017 03:11
|
|