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Funzo posted:Also, this poo poo. Still good too.
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May 14, 2017 18:05
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Funzo posted:I decided to pull out my paints after they've been in a box for years. Ended up throwing out roughly $100 worth of GW paints. These ancient pots were still good though. Yeah those hex pots (and the round ones before them that P3 and Cote d'Arms still use) are pretty much the pinnacle of non-dropper bottles and will usually last forever.
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May 14, 2017 18:12
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Zark the Damned posted:Yeah those hex pots (and the round ones before them that P3 and Cote d'Arms still use) are pretty much the pinnacle of non-dropper bottles and will usually last forever. I have a pot of boltgun metal from 1992 that's still great.
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May 14, 2017 18:30
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Chill la Chill posted:But, good news! Privateer press' P3 line has those exact pains with those jars! Zark the Damned posted:Yeah those hex pots (and the round ones before them that P3 and Cote d'Arms still use) are pretty much the pinnacle of non-dropper bottles and will usually last forever.  Just a few years of storage, these were from close to when PP first released them. I've since rebottled everything into dropper bottles.
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May 14, 2017 18:49
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Zark the Damned posted:Yeah those hex pots (and the round ones before them that P3 and Cote d'Arms still use) are pretty much the pinnacle of non-dropper bottles and will usually last forever. I had one of the Coat d'Arms one split down the middle! :O Seriously, how does one stop the paint from getting stuck inside the rim of the cap? Or is the answer always 'rebottle' ?
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May 14, 2017 21:18
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You pretty much can't stop paint getting inside the rim without rebottling, but you can clean it out every now and then with a needle or similar. Haven't heard of the pot splitting down the middle before, maybe a defective batch with a weak seam?
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May 14, 2017 21:22
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Southern Heel posted:I got given some Space Hulk Terminators, and I want to paint them like Deathwing (since when I started collecting in 2nd Edition, Dark Angels were so cool!). I also want to include my chapter colours. The old marines I've got from 2nd/3rd are here: Oh man, those old models are neat. I'd stick to just the shoulderpads, although the pads being different colors like that reminds me of the lights on a police car. Beer4TheBeerGod posted:Out of curiosity has anyone here actually tried the Rust-Oleum paint and primer cans? As someone else mentioned, they go on pretty thick. I'd stick to Krylon.
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May 14, 2017 21:58
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Is there a difference between the Krylon and Rust-Oleum sandable primers?
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May 14, 2017 23:09
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bonds0097 posted:Thanks guys! I painted the other 2 marines in the painting set box, albeit with vallejo paints. Edge highlights were pretty messy but good practice. Nice! I can def see you're improving from the first one. Does the painting guide in that set say to use the edge highlights in the recesses? I generally put the shade in there, and put the edge highlights on the edges. It also looks like you might need to thin a bit more, if you look at the paint in the wrists. Keep on truckin' man!
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May 15, 2017 00:27
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Just the shoulders makes for the best Nintendo switch cosplay marines
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May 15, 2017 00:54
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Tried out the paint + primer Rust-Oleum spray, along with a model painted with some flat gray primer (also Rust-Oleum). It might be a bit thicker, but it also might be a side effect of how glossy the paint is. I will put on a layer of Dullcote and put up some comparison pics.
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May 15, 2017 01:19
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Beer4TheBeerGod posted:Is there a difference between the Krylon and Rust-Oleum sandable primers? I use Rustoleum Grey Automotive Primer for everything. Always goes on real thin with great coverage. Works great on plastic or resin, though I have never tried metal it should be perfect for that. Foolproof.
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May 15, 2017 01:25
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Is that the sandable primer or another version? I'm in the market for a good black primer, I've got a good grey one I use for almost everything, but the black I've got sucks. It's a bitch to get spray primer because it can't be sold in Chicago so I can't experiment with different types like I wish I could
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May 15, 2017 01:33
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rantmo posted:Is that the sandable primer or another version? I'm in the market for a good black primer, I've got a good grey one I use for almost everything, but the black I've got sucks. It's a bitch to get spray primer because it can't be sold in Chicago so I can't experiment with different types like I wish I could Yeah. The black is supposed to be very good, but I don't use it personally.
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May 15, 2017 01:46
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Finally, I've finished my first KoW unit (minus a few tiny finishing touches to the base) after having been out of miniature wargaming for some 20 years. Can't wait to throw this horde of earth elementals into the fray. Minis are Reaper Bones.
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May 15, 2017 02:41
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Are you ready for some football? It's a  This friend seems almost too rowdy...  I went with a classic Gouged Eye color scheme for Varag because he's their team captain. With SRM's help, I found the old, old color scheme for the Chaos All-Stars, and painted Morg'n'Thorg in that dark green and red scheme, because I believe that was the team that made him famous. My team is currently killing it in my BB league, so I don't know if I'll ever actually use these guys, but they were a blast to paint.
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May 15, 2017 05:49
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The Sex Cannon posted:Are you ready for some football? These guys are looking great dude, I love the checks and dags you put on the Orc team.
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May 15, 2017 05:52
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Crosspost from the 40k threadWarboot posted:
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May 15, 2017 13:05
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These guys aren't quite finished yet. Fruits of the past few nights labours... There's also these two Khorne guys (I had oathed to complete all 5 from the starter set, but 3 are currently soaking in Dettol due to a dodgy batch of wash). They just need the bases finishing off.  I've only been painting again for a few weeks, and the difference between now and what I did originally is like night and day. I wish I could find some pics of my older models to compare. The tips I've picked up just from lurking in this thread and improved my standard so much. Next on the list is a decent light box!
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May 15, 2017 13:19
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Still haven't made my lightbox and I'm in a bit of a rush to post these before work, but this guy is done. I may go back to redo a few highlights and fix the lens on the gun sight.  
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May 15, 2017 14:50
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Cross posting from the AoS thread. Zuul the Cat posted:I picked up a box of the 3 Liberators from GW this weekend to test out paint schemes. I'm going with them for my AoS army. Any tips on painting white? I kinda like the blue, but having to do that much white will kill me.
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May 15, 2017 15:25
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Use a very light grey like Citadel Ulthuan Grey and just build a ton of thin coats until you get the correct opacity. Highlight with actual white.
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May 15, 2017 15:37
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mango sentinel posted:Use a very light grey like Citadel Ulthuan Grey and just build a ton of thin coats until you get the correct opacity. Highlight with actual white.
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May 15, 2017 16:03
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Also, put some color into it. Don't just use greys for shadows. If it's facing the sky, add in a little blue to the shadows. If it's towards the ground, use browns.
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May 15, 2017 18:09
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So it looks like I might be okay with the Rust-Oleum paint+primer stuff. Check out the image below: On the left is the Paint + Primer with 3-4 light coats, and on the right is model with 3 layers of Rust-Oleum sandable gray primer I had lying around. In person they look pretty similar, and with my zenithal highlighting approach I could probably reduce the number of coats on the model even more by avoiding any top-down angles until the white coat is applied.
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May 15, 2017 18:39
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Zuul the Cat posted:Cross posting from the AoS thread. I'm in love with your howling griffons design. That red/yellow split gives them the most old school WHFB look I think I've seen, and the silver looks nice and clean. Awesome work!
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May 15, 2017 22:20
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Booyah- posted:I'm in love with your howling griffons design. That red/yellow split gives them the most old school WHFB look I think I've seen, and the silver looks nice and clean. Awesome work! Thanks! I think this is the scheme I'm going to go with, although for the Liberators, I think I'm going to change up the shapes on the shields just to give them each a little personality. I'm also thinking of changing the icons to black and the hammers to black.
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May 16, 2017 01:18
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I got some more Scale 75 paint and wanted to see if I could demonstrate the extra-matte effect The green colors from left to right Vallejo Heavy Black Green Citadel Kabalite Green Scale 75 Boreal Tree Green You can see the effect a bit better here:  The dirt is Scale 75, the leaves and stones are done with a mix of Citadel and Vallejo. They look like stickers they are so much more glossy
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May 16, 2017 01:25
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That is a reall cool demo, OP worthy.
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May 16, 2017 01:26
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Holy hell, Perfect example! I should do the same with the Fantasy and Games Scale range. They're between normal Scale75 and Citadel. The tiniest of sheen, but still very matte. I love Scale 
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May 16, 2017 01:35
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Did the ivory highlight and of course I immediately dropped the metal miniature on the concrete floor. Oh well. I was planning on stripping him later anyway when I did a round of Devastators, but dammit now his eye piece is all dented. drat metal figs.
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May 16, 2017 01:38
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I'm painting a Sisters of Battle kill team and I want to do an Immolator/Rhino for them. My colour scheme for the Infantry is gold armour with light grey robes and red weapons/Inquisition symbols. When I saw the GW custodes vehicles all blinged out with gold, I thought they looked dreadful. Anyone got any suggestions on translating my colour scheme to a Rhino-chassis vehicle without resorting to too much gold on the tank? Work in progress on one of the Sisters - enough for a first impression even if there's loads of work to do yet: 
Squibsy fucked around with this message at 00:47 on May 17, 2017 |
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May 16, 2017 10:13
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ineptmule posted:I'm painting a Sisters of Battle kill team and I want to do an Immolator/Rhino for them. My colour scheme for the Infantry is gold armour with light grey robes and red weapons/Inquisition symbols. Invert your scheme. Light grey chassis with gold trim and red/white detailing.
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May 16, 2017 10:33
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I'd go with something along the lines of the following: .jpg)  Basically, the idea is that you want to break up the big amounts of gold. I'd actually think about making either gray or red your main color on the tank, with gold as a trim or accent. But either way, you want to make sure it isn't just a solid blob of gold.
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May 16, 2017 10:34
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How do goons go about painting forest bases? I'm looking to do some old style European forests, so the trees are fairly dark I think but I do want some colour and richness to come through. I'm just a bit lost on how to approach painting the soil and trees. I've got some flowers/flock/leaves and stuff to add to the bases once painted. I'm just a bit lost on how to start.
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May 16, 2017 11:07
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Gravitas Shortfall posted:Invert your scheme. Light grey chassis with gold trim and red/white detailing. JackMann posted:I'd go with something along the lines of the following: Cheers folks. That's exactly the sort of advice I needed!
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May 16, 2017 11:25
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Out of the biostrip pot and ready to serve again. 
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May 16, 2017 15:31
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TTerrible posted:Out of the biostrip pot and ready to serve again. Old school! I converted mine to turn them into mountaineering troops (i.e. Veterans) :  The hardest part was carving off the wires for their hot-shot lasguns.
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May 16, 2017 15:44
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Ilor posted:Old school! Haha those backpacks are perfect! The sculpting on these is peak melty. Details just flow into each other. I can't imagine trying to carge those cables off  I've got that same Sgt, not sure who at GW thought a laspistol and bolt pistol was a good setup.
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May 16, 2017 15:57
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Dumb question: when zenithal highlighting do you use grey and white primer or regular paint or does it matter?
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May 16, 2017 16:38
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