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How would you guys suggest getting the blue-black on this bike's body and the highlights on the seat? Is P3's coal black similar enough to that? Also, what colors would you choose for the dirty orange-yellow on the wheels?
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May 17, 2017 16:13
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Chill la Chill posted:How would you guys suggest getting the blue-black on this bike's body and the highlights on the seat? Is P3's coal black similar enough to that? Also, what colors would you choose for the dirty orange-yellow on the wheels?
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May 17, 2017 16:49
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ineptmule posted:
Make sure the paint is extra T H I C C
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May 17, 2017 16:53
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Booty L2
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May 17, 2017 17:00
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Chill la Chill posted:How would you guys suggest getting the blue-black on this bike's body and the highlights on the seat? Is P3's coal black similar enough to that? Also, what colors would you choose for the dirty orange-yellow on the wheels? Yeah, Coal Black should work, with maybe a lighter teal to work up to the white.
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May 17, 2017 17:05
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JackMann posted:Yeah, Coal Black should work, with maybe a lighter teal to work up to the white. Thanks. I've been looking for a nice neutral "base" from which to paint my goofy colors when one of those colors isn't the main one and that might just be it.
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May 17, 2017 17:28
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SteelMentor posted:Magmadroth, from the AoS Fyreslayers range. Yes! Thanks!
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May 17, 2017 17:51
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I gave painting grandmaster voldus a try, but my basecoat of leadbelcher for the armor had the gnarly little bits of pigments in it instead of the smooth coat I need. How do I avoid that?
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May 17, 2017 19:19
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I haven't painted anything in about a year. I was a little rusty but eventually was getting back into the flow. Tried to keep a simple tabletop quality so I could paint the whole unit in a somewhat reasonable amount of time. 
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May 17, 2017 20:23
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Gareth Gobulcoque posted:I haven't painted anything in about a year. I was a little rusty but eventually was getting back into the flow. Tried to keep a simple tabletop quality so I could paint the whole unit in a somewhat reasonable amount of time. Your "tabletop quality" is very nice. I might try to highlight the eyes to get a bit more glow, but otherwise fantastic job.
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May 17, 2017 20:52
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Southern Heel posted:Alright guys, so I've got some space-marine-alikes coming and I would just like to get the lowdown on some ways to paint 2nd Edition-style blood Angels: how can I get that bright orange-red colour? I believe I posted some similar question here and it was a red base working up through blazing orange into sunburst yellow? It's using white primer, that's for sure, and a mix of orange and red for its base color. Here's the old 'Eavy Metal painting guide:  E: You might not have to mix custom colors at this point since there's so many paint options out there, even just in the Citadel range. SRM fucked around with this message at 21:07 on May 17, 2017 |
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May 17, 2017 20:59
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All of those colours are still available from Cote D'Arms. My first BA army were done in that orange  EDIT You'll be wanting: 103 - Sun Yellow for Sunburst Yellow 104 - Blood Red for Blood Red 149 - Angel Red for Blood Angels Orange TTerrible fucked around with this message at 21:14 on May 17, 2017 |
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May 17, 2017 21:08
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I still have a really old pot of "Blood Angels Red" and there's a lot of orange in it.
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May 17, 2017 21:22
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Its bright orange. I never questioned this as a young ham.
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May 17, 2017 21:23
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TTerrible posted:All of those colours are still available from Cote D'Arms. gently caress, I forgot about that. I can't find a replacement for the Citadel Rotting Flesh (despite what GW says, Nurgling Green is darker) but I can still buy it via Cote D'Arms. Sweet! I asked before but wasn't sure if it just got lost inbetween the discussions - my magnets are losing their coating and seem to be shedding a lot of tiny flakes of the magnetic material. Is this natural or will the magnets soon be unusable and crumble out of my minis completely?
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May 17, 2017 21:44
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I'm looking for some advice on my minis painting techniques. I'm not particularly good at it, and only recently began using washes. My wash formula definitely improves my paint jobs, but the results can be uneven sometimes. I make my washes with 1 part acrylic (usually black or black-brown) to 3 parts distilled water and 3 parts matte medium. Are there any other formulas out there that anyone finds works really well? Or any particular tricks to using washes that you might tell a relative beginner like myself?
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May 17, 2017 22:03
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Falstaff posted:I'm looking for some advice on my minis painting techniques. Buy actual washes and don't worry about mixing? That's what I do.
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May 17, 2017 22:04
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Beer4TheBeerGod posted:Buy actual washes and don't worry about mixing? That's what I do. Yeah this. Agrax Earthshade and Nuln Oil do a lot of heavy lifting in this hobby.
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May 17, 2017 22:34
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Southern Heel posted:I dunno bro, I don't think Eavy MEtal would have simply not shaded their miniatures. It seems as though the palette is just starting bright and getting brighter. I've decided to go Army Painter Pure Red base, then red wash -> blood red -> fiery orange -> yellow gold. Hopefully it'll come out good That picture is like from the 80s though? Miniatures painting was pretty different back then? Shading was hand-done back then I feel like. Did people commonly use washes before like, the year 2000? SRM posted:It's using white primer, that's for sure, and a mix of orange and red for its base color. Here's the old 'Eavy Metal painting guide: See no washes
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May 17, 2017 22:43
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Lord_Hambrose posted:Yeah this. Agrax Earthshade and Nuln Oil do a lot of heavy lifting in this hobby. Yup and also Seraphim Sepia. They're all pretty magical even though they involve giving GW money.
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May 17, 2017 22:54
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Use the gloss washes and join the recess master race
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May 17, 2017 23:05
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Thank you all thats perfect! I had to do some digging to find a place that would ship me just one bottle since I have the rest but I got it. Cheers!! Re: no shading, you were quite right 
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May 17, 2017 23:29
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Is Nuln Oil thin enough out of the bottle or do you still have to thin it before applying?
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May 18, 2017 00:28
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Munchables posted:Is Nuln Oil thin enough out of the bottle or do you still have to thin it before applying? Gloss - yes. Matte - not really, unless you're desperate to stain the overall colour of the surface as well as hit the recesses. Try with Lahmain medium as it holds the same binder/resin as the wash.
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May 18, 2017 00:33
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I'm moving away from washes personally, except for specific, targeted applications. I love them for doing things quickly, but there's a (relatively high) ceiling on the quality they can give. The brown/black washes desaturate where they settle.
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May 18, 2017 01:01
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Nebalebadingdong posted:I'm moving away from washes personally, except for specific, targeted applications. I love them for doing things quickly, but there's a (relatively high) ceiling on the quality they can give. The brown/black washes desaturate where they settle. Same. With the exception again of using a gloss wash and then matte varnishing over the top. That poo poo is magic.
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May 18, 2017 01:03
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When I was painting gud I just used reaper liners to black/bown/ blue line my stuff and basically never used washes. I can't imagine not short cutting a thousand sons army though. You'd need way more free time than any adult should have.
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May 18, 2017 01:12
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I've never actually used clear coats, so this is gonna be my first attempt (Once it's not raining/humid every day with flood watches). Is this the correct floor care to use as the initial sealant? https://www.amazon.com/Johnson-Pledge-Floor-Multi-Surface-Finish/dp/B000ARPH4C I live in canada and that's the only one I can find, if not I'll return it and see about ordering online. The idea is to use floor care in the airbrush for sealing the initial paint, and then a testors dull coat after heavy weathering with washes/ink and chalks.
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May 18, 2017 01:43
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That's the one people recommend, and definitely the one formerly known as Future, but I have no personal experience with it and can't tell you whether it's a good idea or not. I will say that most of the references I've seen tend to assume that you're airbrushing it on, I have no idea how it behaves just being slopped on with a brush. E: I'm bad at reading, you are airbrushing. If that's the case, you prooobably don't need to wait on the weather unless your workspace is extremely humid. stabbington fucked around with this message at 02:25 on May 18, 2017 |
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May 18, 2017 02:22
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I've painted it on after a matte coat for shiny details, glass and such, and it works well with a brush on small areas.
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May 18, 2017 02:33
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Perfect, thanks! I'm definitely going to be testing it out on some old metal wraithguard first before applying it to any of the new plastics, just in case. Airbrush pledge, weathering, then dullcoat to seal. I'll post shots (especially if disaster ensues), since it'll be my first attempts ever at sealing miniatures. I have seen positive things with brushing it on, mostly used for clear canopies to cover scratches, adding a tint while maintaining transparency, and bringing back transparency after being sanded. Just what I've read, haven't tried it out myself yet. If it goes well I'm hoping it'll also help fix the tackiness that some of my eldar tanks have always had after airbrushing on a humid day.
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May 18, 2017 02:56
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Cross Posting from the Oath thread;   Had some fun with more scale paints - this time reds and oranges, continue to impress, especially the red trio that makes highlighting super easy. I wanted to experiment with a no metallics model, and I'm pretty happy with the outcome.
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May 18, 2017 04:03
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My first guardsman, just for practice, and test basecoat for my crimson fists scheme.   Pretty happy with the highlighting on the cadians. Looking forward to more practice on faces though. Next project will be the Lost Patrol boardgame, pretty pumped to do the genestealers.
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May 18, 2017 13:48
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My latest bearded baby. Picked up the Vallejo Game Air case and used them on him a bit. They are fantastic through the airbrush, no more loving around with thinning.  
Tentacle Party fucked around with this message at 15:02 on May 18, 2017 |
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May 18, 2017 14:59
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Update on my Stormcast scheme: I decided to add the red/yellow colors to the war skirt to incorporate the color scheme on models that don't have shields. I also changed the color of the iconography to black as opposed to the previous copper color. The hammer i'm not really happy with. Originally I wanted to do the hammers black (hence the iconography) and call them The Black Hammers, but I wasn't happy with how the black turned out. I might try doing silver + multiple washes of Nuln Oil to darken it. Anyway, what do you guys think of the changes? Old:   New:  
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May 18, 2017 16:04
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Zaphod42 posted:That picture is like from the 80s though? Miniatures painting was pretty different back then? Washes weren't a ready made thing really. GW didn't make washes as we know them, by and large, until the mid 2000s. They had ink washes for years before that and maybe some more traditional washes back in the old days, but generally the shading was hand done. If I were doing that Blood Angels scheme I'd use an orange wash for the recesses though.
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May 18, 2017 16:06
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https://twitter.com/y_nakajima_/status/782563982309597185 I don't know how else to share this (wanted to specifically post links to the videos). I think it's the music that really got to me. SRM posted:Washes weren't a ready made thing really. GW didn't make washes as we know them, by and large, until the mid 2000s. They had ink washes for years before that and maybe some more traditional washes back in the old days, but generally the shading was hand done. If I were doing that Blood Angels scheme I'd use an orange wash for the recesses though. It's surprisingly hard to find histories of product releases because I feel like it's been longer than that, but as a ready made product for washes I guess that's about right. Model war gaming is surprisingly insular from other miniature building hobbies like air plane/train/tanks. Which the non gaming ones have been using inks, washes, pigments and chalks for decades, and while their techniques were widely known and shared, it's only been the last several years that hams and other gaming companies have caught on. Which is weird to see "new" techniques of painting hams that have been in hobbyist magazines since the 80s. Ps. Rip devlan mud
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May 18, 2017 18:47
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Zuul the Cat posted:Update on my Stormcast scheme: Looks good, but I wonder if you might want to put some of that nuln oil over the silver armour and touch it back up afterwards? There are lots of crevices which are as bright as the main panels. The black looks better, the skirt looks neater and gives a rennaisance era look that I enjoy. I think the hammer looks good as brass/gold - maybe mix some of the gold with silver and edge highlight?
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May 18, 2017 22:10
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Alright, I plan on picking up some paints today. Nuln oil, some gun colors, any recommendations for space marine helmey eye paints? I want to be able to have that glow effect with a good color for my scheme, gold faceplate on a purple helmet.
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May 19, 2017 01:50
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Munchables posted:Alright, I plan on picking up some paints today. Nuln oil, some gun colors, any recommendations for space marine helmey eye paints? I'd use bright blue or bright green for the eyes. Not sure what the actual GW paint names would be.
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