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Great, thanks! I think I can free some budget by reuse my old storage and case. My old RAMs are 4x2GB ones, I reckon I would need to buy new ones completely, or is it OK to mix 4x2GB with 1x8gig? Is 1070 Overkill for a single 1920x1200 monitor(for AAA titles)? I do have plans to upgrade to one of those ultra wide ones (3440x1440 or 2560x1080) in the future. Do I need a 1080 for 3440x1440 beasts? Does PSU efficiency certification (like gold over bronze) actually save enough money to worth their premium pricing?
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May 18, 2017 18:24
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thanks, it says I need to be on at least 1904 and cpu-z says im on 0105. Update bios it is!
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May 18, 2017 18:47
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Altran posted:Great, thanks! I think I can free some budget by reuse my old storage and case. RAM: Can't re-use it. It'll be DDR3, not DDR4. 1070: No, not overkill if you plan to ultra-wide in the future. If you're looking at 1070+ for GPUs though you'd want to be spending the money on CPU and RAM first. The efficiency comes naturally to the better PSUs. You don't buy better for the efficiency per se, but you do for quieter and cooler ones, as well as modular ones, and the warranty period.
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May 18, 2017 19:35
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What country are you in? - USA What are you using the system for? - Gaming, mostly AAA games set high and fast as possible. Budget - $1000 Gaming/monitors - Acer X34 Predator I'm looking to upgrade/practically rebuild my current gaming pc and I just wanted the thread's opinion on some things before I pull the trigger. Current build: PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant CPU: Intel - Core i5-6600K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor (Purchased For $0.00) CPU Cooler: Corsair - H60 54.0 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler (Purchased For $0.00) Motherboard: MSI - Z170I GAMING PRO AC Mini ITX LGA1151 Motherboard (Purchased For $0.00) Memory: G.Skill - Ripjaws V Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3000 Memory (Purchased For $0.00) Storage: Kingston - SSDNow V300 Series 120GB 2.5" Solid State Drive (Purchased For $0.00) Storage: Samsung - 850 EVO-Series 500GB 2.5" Solid State Drive (Purchased For $0.00) Storage: Western Digital - Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive (Purchased For $0.00) Video Card: Zotac - GeForce GTX 1080 Ti 11GB AMP Edition Video Card (Purchased For $0.00) Case: Fractal Design - Arc Mini R2 MicroATX Mini Tower Case (Purchased For $0.00) Power Supply: Corsair - RMx 750W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply (Purchased For $0.00) Operating System: Microsoft - Windows 10 Home OEM 64-bit (Purchased For $0.00) Case Fan: Corsair - Air Series SP120 Quiet Edition (2-Pack) 37.9 CFM 120mm Fans (Purchased For $0.00) Monitor: Acer - Predator X34 34.0" 3440x1440 100Hz Monitor (Purchased For $0.00) Keyboard: Logitech - G810 Orion Spectrum RGB Wired Gaming Keyboard (Purchased For $0.00) Mouse: Logitech - G502 Wired Optical Mouse (Purchased For $0.00) Total: $0.00 Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available Generated by PCPartPicker 2017-05-18 14:16 EDT-0400 Potential Builds: PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant CPU: Intel - Core i7-7700K 4.2GHz Quad-Core Processor ($333.98 @ NCIX US) CPU Cooler: NZXT - Kraken X52 Liquid CPU Cooler ($149.99 @ NZXT) Motherboard: Asus - STRIX Z270G Micro ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($199.00 @ Amazon) Memory: G.Skill - Trident Z RGB 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3000 Memory ($154.99 @ Newegg) Storage: Kingston - SSDNow V300 Series 120GB 2.5" Solid State Drive (Purchased For $0.00) Storage: Samsung - 850 EVO-Series 500GB 2.5" Solid State Drive (Purchased For $0.00) Storage: Western Digital - Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive (Purchased For $0.00) Video Card: Zotac - GeForce GTX 1080 Ti 11GB AMP Edition Video Card (Purchased For $0.00) Case: Phanteks - Enthoo Evolv TG (Black) MicroATX Mini Tower Case ($137.98 @ Newegg) Power Supply: Corsair - RMx 750W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply (Purchased For $0.00) Total: $975.94 Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available Generated by PCPartPicker 2017-05-18 14:17 EDT-0400 PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant CPU: Intel - Core i7-7700K 4.2GHz Quad-Core Processor ($333.98 @ NCIX US) CPU Cooler: NZXT - Kraken X62 Liquid CPU Cooler ($159.99 @ B&H) Motherboard: Asus - STRIX Z270-E GAMING ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($198.89 @ B&H) Memory: G.Skill - Trident Z RGB 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3000 Memory ($154.99 @ Newegg) Storage: Kingston - SSDNow V300 Series 120GB 2.5" Solid State Drive (Purchased For $0.00) Storage: Samsung - 850 EVO-Series 500GB 2.5" Solid State Drive (Purchased For $0.00) Storage: Western Digital - Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive (Purchased For $0.00) Video Card: Zotac - GeForce GTX 1080 Ti 11GB AMP Edition Video Card (Purchased For $0.00) Case: Phanteks - ECLIPSE P400 TEMPERED GLASS ATX Mid Tower Case ($95.49 @ Jet) Power Supply: Corsair - RMx 750W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply (Purchased For $0.00) Total: $943.34 Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available Generated by PCPartPicker 2017-05-18 14:18 EDT-0400 Notes: I picked those two Asus boards for two reasons. I have to wifi to connect to the internet and they're color neutral. I don't know of any other M-ATX or ATX motherboards that have that combination of features. I know could get a regular board and wifi adapter but aesthetics is important to this build. Would I be better off sticking with my current CPU or is the i7 a huge leap in performance? I kind of feel like it's necessary now having played games like Forza Horizon 3 that are pretty CPU intensive. (I am planning on still using the i5 on a HTPC build later on but I still have a locked i5 laying around.) Thoughts on the cases? I'm liking the tempered glass look as you can tell. The NZXT 340 Elite is also in consideration.
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May 18, 2017 19:36
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Altran posted:Great, thanks! I think I can free some budget by reuse my old storage and case. Is your old storage an SSD? If not, I strongly suggest getting the one recommended. It's a humongous quality of life improvement.
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May 18, 2017 19:44
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HP Artsandcrafts posted:
You will see probably almost no gaming improvement for most games, although Forza 3 would be one where you might see some. Are you overclocking your 6600k? That is where you'd want to start. Forza 3 is very specifically poorly optimized, I am not sure I'd redo a 1 year old build for it.
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May 18, 2017 19:46
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Khablam posted:RAM: Can't re-use it. It'll be DDR3, not DDR4. Actuarial Fables posted:Is your old storage an SSD? If not, I strongly suggest getting the one recommended. It's a humongous quality of life improvement. Yeah it's an SSD, I put frequently played games on it. Cheers, I have a much better idea now!
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May 18, 2017 22:11
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Altran posted:Yeah it's an SSD, I put frequently played games on it. For what it's worth, the cost difference between a 1070 and a 1080 can be pretty small for the performance boost. I have a 1070 but I'd usually tell people that a 1080 is a better deal right now. example: http://www.ebay.com/itm/30210514329...9887&rmvSB=true
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May 18, 2017 22:52
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Lockback posted:You will see probably almost no gaming improvement for most games, although Forza 3 would be one where you might see some. Are you overclocking your 6600k? That is where you'd want to start. Yeah, I wouldn't do it just for that game but I've definitely noticed a lot of ports have the same problem as Horizon 3, GTAV being one of them. I do a fairly mild overclock on my cpu, just to 4.0 GHz but I can tell the difference from the stock setting. The Corsair H60 isn't the greatest cooler in the world even with the push/pull configuration I have it in. I'm not sure if I'm comfortable with pushing it harder than what I am already.
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May 18, 2017 23:13
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If you really really think the difference between hyper-threading and not matters, just buy the i7 and stick it in your current machine. I can tell you for nothing that it definitely is not in either of those games (specifically, GTA5 does not use 8 threads and should scream on that system) A ~$1000 rebuild isn't worth 2-3fps, which is a realistic gain. At a guess, you either have something wrong and you're thermal throttling, or you have ultra-itus and are trying to run 8x MSAA in games or something.
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May 19, 2017 00:41
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Forza horizon 3 runs great on my overclocked 6600k (4.7ghz) with a (mildly) overclocked GTX 1080 (2ghz) I only have a 60hz monitor but the frame rate sits right at 60 all the time with no dips. I have a nzxt s340 as well. Awesome case for the price and my CPU and video card are liquid cooled. I have a 240mm AIO from nzxt for the CPU and a 120mm AIO for the video card. Edit: Forgot to mention resolution. 1440p GutBomb fucked around with this message at 01:29 on May 19, 2017 |
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May 19, 2017 01:26
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Khablam posted:If you really really think the difference between hyper-threading and not matters, just buy the i7 and stick it in your current machine. You know I haven't actually played GTAV since I got the 1080 ti a few weeks ago.  The only thing that's really not working well in my build right now is the motherboard. The XMP doesn't work at all and it started posting slower than normal recently. I fully acknowledge I'm going full retard on this build. Basically if I get a 7700k it's no more upgrades for the foreseeable future. A lot of it is because I want something that looks better. It's not like I'm throwing everything away either. I still plan on building a htpc/spare computer with everything I have left over.
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May 19, 2017 03:55
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Khablam posted:You'll have to re-build, and that's a tight budget for modern AAA games. The only qualms I have with this is that it's leaving ~10-15% of memory performance on the shelf by not going dual-channel on the RAM. I understand staying under a price point, but a 2x4 kit of 2666Mhz+ would be warranted here. HP Artsandcrafts posted:Would I be better off sticking with my current CPU or is the i7 a huge leap in performance? I kind of feel like it's necessary now having played games like Forza Horizon 3 that are pretty CPU intensive. (I am planning on still using the i5 on a HTPC build later on but I still have a locked i5 laying around.) Please don't do a $1000 total system upgrade from a 6600K to a 7700K - if anything, your Z170 will run the 7700K with a BIOS update, you just lose out on 4 PCIe lanes and the questionable value of Optane. And you'll save $700 that you could theoretically still use to buy a decently-sized 960 EVO to augment your current SSD crop (saw you already have a 1080Ti) if a grand is truly burning a hole in your pocket. Because this: Storage: Kingston - SSDNow V300 Series 120GB 2.5" Solid State Drive (Purchased For $0.00) ...is the "what doesn't belong and why" in your build. BIG HEADLINE fucked around with this message at 04:42 on May 19, 2017 |
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May 19, 2017 04:29
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BIG HEADLINE posted:Please don't do a $1000 total system upgrade from a 6600K to a 7700K - if anything, your Z170 will run the 7700K with a BIOS update, you just lose out on 4 PCIe lanes and the questionable value of Optane. And you'll save $700 that you could theoretically still use to buy a decently-sized 960 EVO to augment your current SSD crop (saw you already have a 1080Ti) if a grand is truly burning a hole in your pocket. It's the boot drive. My PC started it's life as an iBuypower Revolt 2 before I took it's guts out and put it into a new case. I've looked into buying a new ssd for a boot drive but it looks tedious as hell to get it up and running?
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May 19, 2017 05:06
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HP Artsandcrafts posted:It's the boot drive. My PC started it's life as an iBuypower Revolt 2 before I took it's guts out and put it into a new case. I've looked into buying a new ssd for a boot drive but it looks tedious as hell to get it up and running? If you bought a 1TB 960 EVO you could pretty seamlessly use Samsung's own data migration tool to clone the V300's contents onto the 960 EVO and be all  in no time. Contemplate a Viking funeral for the V300.Cloning's only an issue really when people are all "I have my Windows installation on my 1-2TB+ HDD but my SSD is only 500GB." BIG HEADLINE fucked around with this message at 08:51 on May 19, 2017 |
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May 19, 2017 05:20
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It's probably a long shot but if any of you were looking to buy an 1080Ti FE to slap a waterblock on, I'm selling mine. It's an EVGA, which has the best warranty service and won't void your warranty for taking off the stock cooler. https://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3820948
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May 19, 2017 08:40
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VulgarandStupid posted:It's probably a long shot but if any of you were looking to buy an 1080Ti FE to slap a waterblock on, I'm selling mine. It's an EVGA, which has the best warranty service and won't void your warranty for taking off the stock cooler. FWIW none of the 10x0 FE models throttle if you move away from the default fan curve, and even with the higher fan speed it's still quieter than sticking a watercooler on it. If someone told you they do they were mistaken. My 1080 (no Ti) FE benches in the top ~2-3% of 1080s on its stock FE cooler. There's not enough OC potential in any of these cards to warrant watercooling unless you very specifically want to benchmark them and not play games; even with 120% power target and everything ramped in Furmark, it'll never break 80% fan speed.
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May 19, 2017 09:20
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Khablam posted:FWIW none of the 10x0 FE models throttle if you move away from the default fan curve, and even with the higher fan speed it's still quieter than sticking a watercooler on it. If someone told you they do they were mistaken. I'm going to go with the opinion of Gamers Nexus as well as my own, instead of someone with a different card. It's incredibly loud at anything over 50%, but throttles if it's at 50%. That's not good. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BipVR5-YM_Y
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May 19, 2017 09:48
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Does someone have a good idiotproof guide to modest overclocking? I'm not looking to get massive gains here, just want some modest performance boosts.
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May 19, 2017 13:22
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Chin Strap posted:Does someone have a good idiotproof guide to modest overclocking? I'm not looking to get massive gains here, just want some modest performance boosts. It's pretty idiot proof now. Do you have a 3570k? You can probably get 4.0-4.2 on +10% voltage. So depending on your MB, you can use their auto-OC abilities which are usually pretty conservative, or you can set your voltage to +10% and your multiplier to 42 and enjoy the free perf boost. Here's an older guide on Ivy Bridge OCing if you do have 3570k http://www.anandtech.com/show/5763/undervolting-and-overclocking-on-ivy-bridge?_ga=2.141556594.1536199519.1495196957-1273476010.1494266612
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May 19, 2017 13:39
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I recently upgraded my GPU to a 1080 Ti to go with a new 144hz G-Sync monitor. I built a Skylake PC back in December 2015 and I looks like my i5-6500 is bottlenecking in games like Final Fantasy XIV. Should I just look at getting a locked 6700/7700, wait for 8th Gen and move my system over, or not be ridiculous about this and just stick with my i5-6500? XIV is really the only thing I notice this in, and even then it's mostly in just highly congested areas during high activity times. Wouldn't even be considering this if not for the fact that I play XIV exponentially more than anything else.
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May 19, 2017 14:17
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Lockback posted:It's pretty idiot proof now. Do you have a 3570k? You can probably get 4.0-4.2 on +10% voltage. So depending on your MB, you can use their auto-OC abilities which are usually pretty conservative, or you can set your voltage to +10% and your multiplier to 42 and enjoy the free perf boost. I'm upgrading from a sandy bridge to a kaby lake 7600k with a Z270 board. I'm also going from a GTX 970 to a 1070. Good to know it is a lot easier than when I messed with it years ago. Other question: Can I easily reformat my windows drive when I make my new build without having to make a new boot stick or whatever? I'd like to just swap my SSD into the new build, go into some sort of recovery mode, and fresh install the whole thing. I'm not sure if I have my windows 10 code around anymore, will I need it? Can I get it from somewhere in windows itself?
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May 19, 2017 14:40
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VulgarandStupid posted:I'm going to go with the opinion of Gamers Nexus as well as my own, instead of someone with a different card. It's incredibly loud at anything over 50%, but throttles if it's at 50%. That's not good. Can't watch that atm but if it's the video I think it is, they just leave the fan curve at stock. You only need to go to about 65% with default clocks to prevent any throttling. Your ears my vary, of course, but billing it as only suitable for watercooling isn't really fair.
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May 19, 2017 15:19
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Lockback posted:For what it's worth, the cost difference between a 1070 and a 1080 can be pretty small for the performance boost. The price difference here in the UK is only like 70 pounds between these two, I honestly thought the gap would be greater. My impression is 1080 is for 4K gaming and 1070 is more likely for 1440p. Using 1080 for 1440p would be a waste of power?
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May 19, 2017 15:33
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I've got an old i5-750 (along with an appropriate motherboard, RAM, everything except a storage device really) sitting around doing nothing and a son that's wanting to play Sims 4. That 750 should be enough, right?
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May 19, 2017 15:45
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Altran posted:The price difference here in the UK is only like 70 pounds between these two, I honestly thought the gap would be greater. No, not at all. 1070 is a nice card for 1440 but it's not idle or anything, you'll get much better perf with a 1080. The 1080ti ate the 1080's lunch in terms of price point, so it forced it down. Now its a really good deal. If you have a 1440 monitor I would absolutely suggest a 1080. I have a 1070 and I am happy with it, but I'd pay $70 to upgrade in a heartbeat. Hell, even if you had 1080p I'd so go with a 1080 and just do ridiculous scaling or be ready for your next monitor.
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May 19, 2017 15:52
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Lockback posted:No, not at all. 1070 is a nice card for 1440 but it's not idle or anything, you'll get much better perf with a 1080. The 1080ti ate the 1080's lunch in terms of price point, so it forced it down. Now its a really good deal. If you have a 1440 monitor I would absolutely suggest a 1080. I have a 1070 and I am happy with it, but I'd pay $70 to upgrade in a heartbeat. 70 pounds is more like $150 which is the current difference between a 1070 and 1080. Still worth it for a 1440?
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May 19, 2017 15:59
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Chin Strap posted:70 pounds is more like $150 which is the current difference between a 1070 and 1080. Still worth it for a 1440? I don't know how your moon money works (google says its more like $90), but at 1440p you'll see FPS @ ultra go from 60-70 range to 80-90 range on most GPU-limited games, or if you turn settings down a smidge you'll go from 80-90 to 100+, which is nice if you're also rocking a 144hz monitor. When you are talking about adding 10% to the total build cost, to me, that's a no brainer to jump up. Obviously if your budget doesn't allow it there's nothing wrong with a 1070, but the perf-per-dollar equation is very positive for the 1080 right now. Also, don't be afraid to dig to look for deals because many retailers are overstocked with 1080s because of where it's slotted below the 1080tis.
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May 19, 2017 16:08
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Lockback posted:I don't know how your moon money works (google says its more like $90), but at 1440p you'll see FPS @ ultra go from 60-70 range to 80-90 range on most GPU-limited games, or if you turn settings down a smidge you'll go from 80-90 to 100+, which is nice if you're also rocking a 144hz monitor. I wasn't looking hard enough (and am currently out of touch with exchange rates!). Thanks I'll be hunting one down then.
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May 19, 2017 16:13
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The range of prices for a 1080 is really large. Is there any reason to spend the extra 50 on something like https://smile.amazon.com/MSI-GTX-1080-GAMING-8G/dp/B01GLYD7MG vs something like https://smile.amazon.com/Gigabyte-GeForce-Windforce-GV-N1080WF3OC-8GD-Graphics/dp/B01IR6LMLO ? I plan on doing whatever easy OC gains I can and leaving it at that.
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May 19, 2017 16:22
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Chin Strap posted:The range of prices for a 1080 is really large. Is there any reason to spend the extra 50 on something like https://smile.amazon.com/MSI-GTX-1080-GAMING-8G/dp/B01GLYD7MG vs something like https://smile.amazon.com/Gigabyte-GeForce-Windforce-GV-N1080WF3OC-8GD-Graphics/dp/B01IR6LMLO ? I plan on doing whatever easy OC gains I can and leaving it at that. I'd buy this for $429 and save the extra $100 for the 1280 or whatever. http://www.ebay.com/itm/30210514329...9887&rmvSB=true It's the Blower edition, so maybe not ideal but the price is pretty good. For non-Blowers I haven't seen a huge difference in different editions for this generation, personally, but someone else might chime in with a different opinion.
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May 19, 2017 16:39
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Well my psu popped a cap today. About a 5 year old system that still gets everything I need done. I'll prolly order a new psu next week but what are the chances it didn't hurt anything else? I'd sure hate to have to build a new one when this wasn't lagging behind for me at all. i5 2500k @4.2 Gtx970 1hdd+1ssd 4 fans Corsair gs600 ( I know, I know heh) Everything else looked/seemed fine. Avail fucked around with this message at 18:18 on May 19, 2017 |
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May 19, 2017 18:12
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Currently contemplating a new mITX build, as I'm still on a prebuilt Dell system with a Haswell Pentium inside. I'm pretty much set, except for the Motherboard, Processor and Ram, and I'm having a hard time deciding. This would essentially be a gaming machine: AAA games & Strategy stuff (Civ 6, Stellaris, EU4) at 1080p and 60 fps. Most expensive build would be the following: Asus Z270I Intel Core i7 7700K 2 x 8 GB DDR4 Ram @2400 MHz Price: 480€ However, I could drop down to an Asus Z170 board to save 100€, and another 80€ by switching to an i5 6600K. Is Kaby Lake worth the extra 100€ for my use? Same question for i5 vs i7. Also, how important are Ram speeds nowadays? I settled for a middle of the road kit, since higher ones are stupid expensive. Many thanks goons!
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May 19, 2017 18:33
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Looking at picking up a new video card to play some newer games. My system is on the older side, but aside from graphics doesn't have any issues (i7-930 @ 3.3GHz, 24GB RAM, Radeon HD6950). It looks like PCI-E should be backwards-compatible, so while I won't be able to fully utilize a new card for the time being until I do a full-overhaul, a newer card shouldn't give me any issues. HOWEVER -- it looks like new cards require a UEFI BIOS, which my system doesn't have. Is this accurate? Trying to dredge up useful information on this isn't proving to be easy. Was looking at an RX580 or similar, but don't want to end up with something I can't use at all for awhile. Wonder_Bread fucked around with this message at 21:34 on May 19, 2017 |
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May 19, 2017 21:15
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Wonder_Bread posted:Looking at picking up a new video card to play some newer games. My system is on the older side, but aside from graphics doesn't have any issues (i7-930 @ 3.3GHz, 24GB RAM, Radeon HD6950). It looks like PCI-E should be backwards-compatible, so while I won't be able to fully utilize a new card for the time being until I do a full-overhaul, a newer card shouldn't give me any issues. Yeah, even an 'older' card like the 750Ti is going to require a UEFI-ready BIOS. A lot of people with pre-builts from back then are finding out they can't just drop a new GPU in them.
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May 19, 2017 22:22
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Hello everyone: I'm looking to build myself a pretty nice PC. The prices listed are in worthless Canadian maple syrup money, and sadly, PC gaming just costs so much more here, so without price, how does this build look? I'm not really looking to "future proof" but I wanted to make something that can generally get all of the bells and whistles a whirring. Will this work? I heard the 1070 is overkill for 1080p and have no real problem dropping to a 1060. And this PC will, generally, be a 1080p pc with an option to pick up something like a 1080 in the future for some limited 1440p gaming in the future, depending on various factors. https://ca.pcpartpicker.com/list/6sQ8vV
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May 19, 2017 22:27
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WiiFitForWindows8 posted:Hello everyone: Can't see anything wrong - that's basically our common suggestions. I might suggest going with EVGA over MSI for the 1070, though. You're also overbuying on the PSU - if you want overhead a 650W will do. Newegg has the 750W G3 (which is the first SKU that comes with a 10 year warranty) for less: https://www.newegg.ca/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817438093&cm_re=evga_g3_750-_-17-438-093-_-Product The G3 is also practically as small as a PSU can be and not be SFX. BIG HEADLINE fucked around with this message at 22:37 on May 19, 2017 |
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May 19, 2017 22:33
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BIG HEADLINE posted:Can't see anything wrong - that's basically our common suggestions. I might suggest going with EVGA over MSI for the 1070, though. Thanks! I am splurging on the case, but if you know of any other, fancier cases in the same price range Id love a suggestion. My current case is boring...I want something really snazzy, I know its silly.
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May 19, 2017 22:39
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WiiFitForWindows8 posted:Thanks! I am splurging on the case, but if you know of any other, fancier cases in the same price range Id love a suggestion. My current case is boring...I want something really snazzy, I know its silly. No problem - maybe also try to get a hold of a Cryorig H7 from Newegg.ca - I think they're one of the only retailers in the Great White North who carry them. It performs better than the 212 EVO and honestly looks better, too. Adds ~$20CDN, though.
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May 19, 2017 22:48
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I'm looking to push as many frames as possible for 1920x1080 @ 240hz. I play pretty much only FPS games at lowered settings for max frames. 7700k and 1080Ti are the current best combo for gaming right now, correct? Is there any point in waiting to see how Vega shakes out for this sort of use case? Do you think there would be any price drop from Nvidia?
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May 19, 2017 23:55
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