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Tentacle Party posted:My latest bearded baby. Picked up the Vallejo Game Air case and used them on him a bit. They are fantastic through the airbrush, no more loving around with thinning. I particularly like how you have weathered him, especially his boots.
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May 19, 2017 03:05
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Zuul the Cat posted:Update on my Stormcast scheme: Looks real good, tho I think it worked better with the copper/orange hammer.
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May 19, 2017 03:06
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Munchables posted:any recommendations for space marine helmey eye paints? I want to be able to have that glow effect with a good color for my scheme, gold faceplate on a purple helmet. If you want to stick with GW stuff, here's their method: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FZYObTNdhkA If you want to do glowy OSL style, here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LgAjreDDWa0
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May 19, 2017 03:25
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SRM posted:Washes weren't a ready made thing really. GW didn't make washes as we know them, by and large, until the mid 2000s. They had ink washes for years before that and maybe some more traditional washes back in the old days, but generally the shading was hand done. If I were doing that Blood Angels scheme I'd use an orange wash for the recesses though. So my hex bottle Citadel Colour washes from ~1994 are an illusion?
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May 19, 2017 04:07
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Blue cap for washes red for glazes if I remember right..
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May 19, 2017 04:39
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Munchables posted:Alright, I plan on picking up some paints today. Nuln oil, some gun colors, any recommendations for space marine helmey eye paints? I want to be able to have that glow effect with a good color for my scheme, gold faceplate on a purple helmet. Burning of prospero includes this guide:  So glazes as appropriate. Some people also like to use the gemstone paints - so paint it stormhost silver (or whatever super bright silver you have), then gemstone paint, and it should get a gloss metallic, and with good brush control you can have it come back from the corners in a neat way.
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May 19, 2017 05:04
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Silhouette posted:So my hex bottle Citadel Colour washes from ~1994 are an illusion? Those are the traditional washes from the old days I mentioned in my post that I was pretty sure existed, but didn't know for sure. That was before my time in the hobby; I just know that from the time I was in the hobby (early-mid 2000s) the only options were ink washes from GW until a few years later when they launched the foundation paint and wash lines.
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May 19, 2017 05:48
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SRM posted:Those are the traditional washes from the old days I mentioned in my post that I was pretty sure existed, but didn't know for sure. That was before my time in the hobby; I just know that from the time I was in the hobby (early-mid 2000s) the only options were ink washes from GW until a few years later when they launched the foundation paint and wash lines. They were called washes in the early 90s, but were mostly called inks by the time GW brought out their awful screw cap hex pots. They functioned pretty much the same but had a much glossier finish. Washes didn't really get a Matte finish until the Badab Black/Devlan Mud era.
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May 19, 2017 08:41
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The old Citadel inks were quite different from the current washes and glazes. They were a lot more "powerful" for lack of a better term. Sure they flowed into recesses, but they also heavily tinted the surfaces they were applied to if applied straight from the pot.
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May 19, 2017 08:56
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 This was the first wash I ever had. And it had the same effect on my painting as Devlan Mud had later on. It went on *everything* and it was magic. I remember a chestnut ink from around the same era which was much darker and harder to use. *fake edit: oh it was from slightly later
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May 19, 2017 09:06
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Gravitas Shortfall posted:The old Citadel inks were quite different from the current washes and glazes. They were a lot more "powerful" for lack of a better term. Sure they flowed into recesses, but they also heavily tinted the surfaces they were applied to if applied straight from the pot. Yep, this ball was coloured by painting it a light leather brown, and then one coat of the old Red Ink. 
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May 19, 2017 10:45
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I tried using an old bottle of Dark Angels Ink to speed up painting some trees, turns it was a bad idea because that thing was incredibly dark and pigment heavy. Which made it not all that great to use.
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May 19, 2017 10:46
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Finished the last troll and based the unit. I'm not sold on the vomit, it came out more orange than I was aiming for. I'll leave it a bit tho and probably decide I like it in time. This completes an oath from about a year ago or something absurd like that.   Front rank:  Rear rank:  Squad goals: 
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May 19, 2017 11:33
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dmnz posted:Finished the last troll and based the unit. Awesome! I have my first Scale 75 complaint. The color indicators on the box sets are, at best, wild guesses of what the actual color is.
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May 19, 2017 13:11
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Silhouette posted:So my hex bottle Citadel Colour washes from ~1994 are an illusion? They may have been called Washes but they were actually more akin to Glazes as they usually had very strong pigment and required thinning to use like the more modern washes. They leave a lot of pigment all over the area instead of naturally flowing into recesses and stuff.
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May 19, 2017 13:26
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Zaphod42 posted:See no washes
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May 19, 2017 14:33
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What's a gloss wash?
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May 19, 2017 15:01
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Beer4TheBeerGod posted:What's a gloss wash? Exactly what it sounds like. A wash that dries with a glossy finish. GW recommends using them on metallics.
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May 19, 2017 15:04
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SRM posted:Exactly what it sounds like. A wash that dries with a glossy finish. GW recommends using them on metallics. Aside from the obvious, are there any benefits to using it?
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May 19, 2017 15:32
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Beer4TheBeerGod posted:Aside from the obvious, are there any benefits to using it? Aside from keeping metals shiny, Gloss Agrax Earthshade is great for making bases look wet.
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May 19, 2017 15:41
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Geoff Zahn posted:gently caress, I forgot about that. I can't find a replacement for the Citadel Rotting Flesh (despite what GW says, Nurgling Green is darker) but I can still buy it via Cote D'Arms. Sweet! Does it look something like this? Usually it happens if the magnets get knocked around, but I think that it can also happen from temperature shifts, like if they get too hot or too cold (I am not a magnetologist but I think they don't hold up well to varying expansion/contraction, especially because the coating is a different metal). I wouldn't use a flaking magnet for anything where its going to be embedded - they'll work as magnets, but once they're compromised I think you can expect them to continue to fall apart. If they're already in place I would leave them there and just check periodically to see how rapidly they're degrading.
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May 19, 2017 15:46
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If applied over a glossy surface (like gloss varnish), the gloss washes do a better job of flowing off raised surfaces and gathering in crevices. As for their performance over matte surfaces, i would guess there is still some improvement.
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May 19, 2017 17:14
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Ashcans posted:Does it look something like this? Usually it happens if the magnets get knocked around, but I think that it can also happen from temperature shifts, like if they get too hot or too cold (I am not a magnetologist but I think they don't hold up well to varying expansion/contraction, especially because the coating is a different metal). I wouldn't use a flaking magnet for anything where its going to be embedded - they'll work as magnets, but once they're compromised I think you can expect them to continue to fall apart. If they're already in place I would leave them there and just check periodically to see how rapidly they're degrading. Yep, it looks kind of like that. Not quite large chips but very small shavings. The coating is gone on most of my non-used magnets so I'll probably just buy new ones when I need them. For the ones already in place on my miniatures, would a coat of varnish seal them against further damage? Or would it be best to try to remove and replace them?
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May 19, 2017 18:14
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I just today ran out of Devlan Mud. I do however have half a bottle of the super old Chestnut ink
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May 19, 2017 19:42
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dexefiend posted:If applied over a glossy surface (like gloss varnish), the gloss washes do a better job of flowing off raised surfaces and gathering in crevices. So hitting a model with gloss varnish then following up with the gloss wash produces a higher contrast than without the varnish?
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May 19, 2017 20:07
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Tentacle Party posted:My latest bearded baby. Picked up the Vallejo Game Air case and used them on him a bit. They are fantastic through the airbrush, no more loving around with thinning. This isn't getting enough love because it's astounding. The details on the cape alone are bonerfied, but the whole thing is really really well done.
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May 19, 2017 20:31
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Question for the airbrush guys. I'm about to get some time to actually put paint to models, and I figured I'd want to do some zenithal priming, something neat to take advantage of the fact I do have an airbrush. I do have a couple of concerns before I start though. The first being, I'm doing a bunch of Retribution of Scyrah Warmachine models and there's a lot of flat space between the various warjacks, armor, etc. and I'd like to shoot for a decent dark red-violet (i.e. P3 Sanguine Base or Vallejo Red Black or is it Black Red? One of the two). I do have Vallejo's airbrush thinner, but is there anything else I should mix in to the paint itself to make sure it's thin enough to see the highlights and shadows of the zenithal priming? Secondly, while there is a lot of open spaces, there's a lot of joints and other parts that I don't want that sanguine color. Now, I'm of the school where you start at the innermost gubbins and work your way out, but I don't think that'd work very well with an airbrush without extensive masking beforehand. For as much as it'd feel weird, is the easy answer just "suck it up and do that after all the airbrushing is done"?
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May 19, 2017 22:24
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Aniodia posted:I do have Vallejo's airbrush thinner, but is there anything else I should mix in to the paint itself to make sure it's thin enough to see the highlights and shadows of the zenithal priming? Hit it with a paint/flow improver/water mix - so when you spray on some test paper it sticks, but doesn't run down the paper. Then, when you're doing the airbrushing, hit it with the paint, then push the lever forward so there's only air coming out and immediately dry what you've just applied. Go back and forth like that to get to the point where you're happy with the density and tone of the layer. Aniodia posted:is the easy answer just "suck it up and do that after all the airbrushing is done"? This is basically the only answer. What you gain in speed and flawless transitions, you will have to accept that you'll be going back more than if you had only hand brushed. Beer4TheBeerGod posted:Aside from the obvious, are there any benefits to using it? The massive benefit of Gloss Washes is the ability to hit an area that you want recess shaded, and not have to baby the wash to prevent it from changing the colour of the raised areas. Because of the gloss medium, it is already reducing the surface tension and trying to get 'off' the large flat areas and into the crevasses. Just hit the area up with a quick matte varnish once you're done. It's an awesome hobby improver. GW marketing it as "Your guns stay glossy!" is a horrible short changing of one of the best paint products they sell.
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May 19, 2017 23:45
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Yeast posted:The massive benefit of Gloss Washes is the ability to hit an area that you want recess shaded, and not have to baby the wash to prevent it from changing the colour of the raised areas. Because of the gloss medium, it is already reducing the surface tension and trying to get 'off' the large flat areas and into the crevasses. Just hit the area up with a quick matte varnish once you're done. It's an awesome hobby improver. GW marketing it as "Your guns stay glossy!" is a horrible short changing of one of the best paint products they sell. Does that require a gloss varnish first?
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May 20, 2017 00:03
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Beer4TheBeerGod posted:Does that require a gloss varnish first? Nope. You can if you want, and I'd only bother doing that if you're applying the gloss wash over an area that's already an airbrushed gradient for example, to be absolutely sure it won't interfere with it, but for 99% of other work, it can go straight out of the pot and onto the miniature. Edit: I'll post up an example later when I get home to show the difference between the two.
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May 20, 2017 00:28
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Yeast posted:Nope. Cool. So how careful would I have to be to replicate this effect? Do I still need to be super careful about where the wash goes? Or could I maybe cheat even further and hit a model spray painted in gloss white with a brown gloss wash?
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May 20, 2017 01:10
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Beer4TheBeerGod posted:Cool. So how careful would I have to be to replicate this effect? Do I still need to be super careful about where the wash goes? Or could I maybe cheat even further and hit a model spray painted in gloss white with a brown gloss wash? If you put gloss down first, it would be ridiculously easy. Like, the most work you'd need to do would be to wick it away from the bottom of the feet and probably the groin, as it all runs south.
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May 20, 2017 01:41
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Yeast posted:Hit it with a paint/flow improver/water mix - so when you spray on some test paper it sticks, but doesn't run down the paper. quote:This is basically the only answer. What you gain in speed and flawless transitions, you will have to accept that you'll be going back more than if you had only hand brushed.  I kinda expected that.
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May 20, 2017 02:40
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Beer4TheBeerGod posted:Questions about Gloss Washes So here's a super quick and rough example. 
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May 20, 2017 02:41
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Aniodia posted:should I go grab some actual Vallejo flow aid (I say Vallejo since that'd be the kind of paint I'm using)? Honestly, I've tried about 4 different products, and nothing comes close to Vallejo flow improver. It's a game changer for airbrushing. I say this with no hyperbole, but since I started using it, I never have dry trip, and instances of paint splatter or clogging is almost zero. I bought a bottle, it blew my mind, and I bought spares. I never want to run out of this stuff.  That's the stuff you want.
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May 20, 2017 02:47
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Yeast posted:So here's a super quick and rough example. So it would be even cleaner with a gloss varnish?
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May 20, 2017 03:14
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Yeast posted:Honestly, I've tried about 4 different products, and nothing comes close to Vallejo flow improver. It's a game changer for airbrushing. Cool beans, I'll hit up one of the local hobby stores for that. Thanks.
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May 20, 2017 03:23
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Yeast posted:Honestly, I've tried about 4 different products, and nothing comes close to Vallejo flow improver. It's a game changer for airbrushing. Do you just go straight this and paint? I've been trying to nail my mixture and I think I've been using a combo of this and golden dry retarder
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May 20, 2017 03:37
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This stuff is also changed my airbrush game. It is amazing. I stopped loving around with custom formulations and guesswork.
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May 20, 2017 04:50
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Anybody have a good guide for priming with the paint in a pot, GW Imperial Primer?
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May 20, 2017 05:00
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