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How come car manufacturer's haven't embraced cell phones integration beyond just media and hands-free talking? Like, why don't more cars allow you to start your car via cell phone? Or even have a cell phone completely replace a key/key fob? I feel like this would be the natural evolution of automotive technology before self-driving cars, but it doesn't seem to be going that way. Full disclosure I don't pay much attention to car trends so I could be completely wrong and this could be something on every 2018 model car for all I know.
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May 17, 2017 14:31
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TBeats posted:How come car manufacturer's haven't embraced cell phones integration beyond just media and hands-free talking? Like, why don't more cars allow you to start your car via cell phone? Or even have a cell phone completely replace a key/key fob? I feel like this would be the natural evolution of automotive technology before self-driving cars, but it doesn't seem to be going that way. That's going to bring some fun and exciting kinds of ransomware when it takes off. I can't wait for the first case of someone having their car remotely shut off going down the interstate because they didn't believe the kid demanding money through the OnStar speaker was serious. dis astranagant fucked around with this message at 14:44 on May 17, 2017 |
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May 17, 2017 14:39
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TBeats posted:How come car manufacturer's haven't embraced cell phones integration beyond just media and hands-free talking? Like, why don't more cars allow you to start your car via cell phone? Or even have a cell phone completely replace a key/key fob? I feel like this would be the natural evolution of automotive technology before self-driving cars, but it doesn't seem to be going that way. For a more simple take on it though, the manufacturer would presumably have to include a regular key fob as well. As far as unlocking the car goes, are you going to take your phone out, press the home button, find the app, wait for it to pair with the vehicle and then press the unlock button or are you just gonna find the unlock button on the fob without even looking and press it once? Heck with modern transponders you don't even have to touch the fob, just get in and press the engine start. I don't see how any app could be more convenient without majorly compromising security. RillAkBea fucked around with this message at 14:58 on May 17, 2017 |
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May 17, 2017 14:55
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NFC.
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May 17, 2017 15:22
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Also, what happens if your phone battery runs down? Or you drop it in a puddle/toilet/etc? Or you drop it on concrete and shatter the screen (which, on some phones, will also take out the touch screen)? Keyfobs get broken too, but not nearly as easily as a phone. And their batteries tend to last years instead of a day.
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May 17, 2017 15:23
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Yu-Gi-Ho! posted:Also, what happens if your phone battery runs down? Or you drop it in a puddle/toilet/etc? Or you drop it on concrete and shatter the screen (which, on some phones, will also take out the touch screen)? Additionally, cell technology keeps changing and whatever is designed into a car is likely to be out of date by the time it's actually manufactured - or within a few years thereafter. It's a maintenance headache they don't need. They can much better control the software within the car, and let the cell connection come from an external device which can adapt and change to new technology easier.
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May 17, 2017 15:42
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We've already been down that road once with GM's OnStar, when the old AMPS towers shut down. We're going to see it again too - I believe OnStar's digital stuff runs on VZW's network, and they've already discussed shutting down 2G and 3G services in the next few years. They did equip some vehicles with digital-ready* (with a retrofit) OnStar systems prior to the AMPS shutdown, but you still had to pay a dealer to swap out the module.
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May 17, 2017 16:03
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I've had enough dead car batteries I'm never gonna buy a car I can't get into if the battery is dead.
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May 17, 2017 17:32
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Integration between the canbus stuff and the entertainment and cell data stuff is already there lol, remember the guys who hacked a Jeep, that got patched but they kept playing with an unpatched one and got remote braking and steering fully working imagine if that had been a zero-day attack. https://www.wired.com/2016/08/jeep-hackers-return-high-speed-steering-acceleration-hacks/
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May 17, 2017 20:33
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Yu-Gi-Ho! posted:We've already been down that road once with GM's OnStar, when the old AMPS towers shut down. We're going to see it again too - I believe OnStar's digital stuff runs on VZW's network, and they've already discussed shutting down 2G and 3G services in the next few years. OnStar has been using AT&T since 2013 - they switched when they started installing 4G receivers.
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May 17, 2017 23:05
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Wasn't aware they'd switched. Good to know. I know mine's old enough to be on VZW (the phone # they assigned mine was a VZW prefix), but there's a bit of a difference between a 2006 and a 2013. 
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May 17, 2017 23:33
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I broke the hood-popper wire on my 2007 Hyundai Elantra. Hood has been sticking, finally got stuck, wire broke pulling on lever. I'm pretty sure I can fish around with a coat hanger and get the hood open, but what do I do about the wire? Can I cut my own piece, or do I have to buy an assembly? I don't think it's going to pass MA inspection if it doesn't work.
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May 18, 2017 12:51
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Squashy Nipples posted:I broke the hood-popper wire on my 2007 Hyundai Elantra. Hood has been sticking, finally got stuck, wire broke pulling on lever. You can probably get a whole new assembly. I had to do it a while back on my Mustang. Got mine from RockAuto and it was fairly cheap. When you pull the old cable out, do yourself a favor and tie a string to the end first so you've got something to help fish the new cable back through.
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May 18, 2017 14:31
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Squashy Nipples posted:I don't think it's going to pass MA inspection if it doesn't work. I'm in MA and got my inspection last month and they never popped the hood at all. I don't think it's a bullet on inspection anyway.
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May 18, 2017 17:25
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i have a 2001 chevy prizm 1.8L (1zz-fe, i believe) that's been running fine but setting DTC's every so often: P0171, P0125. when p0125 was set, the upstream o2 sensor wasn't showing normal voltages on torque+obd2 reader. working through the haynes manual, i diagnosed a bad ground on the upstream oxygen sensor heater connection. i clip-spliced a straight ground into the o2 sensor pigtail and it fired up and readings appeared normal again (cycling between .1-.9V). about 15 minutes after starting & driving, i got a new code (p0135) and the sensor went back to low readings (< .1V, according to torque). last night while troubleshooting i got a good resistance from the heater circuit, but haven't gotten a chance to re-test yet. stupid questions: is the heater on a heated o2 sensor supposed to cycle? did i burn up the heating element in the sensor or something? nine16thsdago fucked around with this message at 20:17 on May 18, 2017 |
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May 18, 2017 20:06
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If sensor or heater is bad inside it could be loving up in all kind of ways as it heats up and cools down I'd reckon. How did you discover the ground issue, that is too say where did you test? Edit: to my understanding the heater shouldn't matter much once you've been going awhile, it's to get emissions/efficiency going from a cold start, but someone can correct me if I'm wrong. How many miles on the vehicle?
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May 18, 2017 20:41
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The heater is controlled by PWM so it does "cycle" in that way. Generally, after startup, the applied heater voltage will be low to warm it up but keep the temperature low to avoid thermal shock from water ("dew point waiting"). After exhaust is hot, then something like a full 12V will be applied until the sensor is hot. Then the voltage will drop again to some voltage that will keep it at the target temperature. If the sensor is reading low voltage then you could either have an exhaust leak, the heater could be bad, a broken element, or you have an open circuit to your element. Those are the likely culprits. Because of the way the ceramic cracks, it could work intermittently but ultimately you're probably going to have to replace the sensor.
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May 18, 2017 20:53
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shovelbum posted:How did you discover the ground issue, that is too say where did you test? with ignition switch on, i measured 0V between heater + and heater ground in the wiring harness connector. i then measured 12V between the heater + and the chassis/ground but measured no continuity (300k Ohm) between heater ground pin and chassis ground. totalnewbie posted:The heater is controlled by PWM so it does "cycle" in that way. thanks! so follow-on stupid question: did my ground splice cause a new problem? i.e., would that somehow interfere with PWM control of the voltage going to the heater? i'd think 'no' if it's PWM-ing +12V, but any chance it would do that on the ground lead?
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May 18, 2017 21:12
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I have a 1983 300SD that is making a very loud metallic screeching noise (my coworkers said it sounded like a tornado siren going off) when the car is in motion after I went over a washboarded section of dirt parking lot and possibly bottomed out at least one corner. There's no noise when it's in park and it doesn't start whining until I'm moving a few miles an hour. Didn't seem to make the noise in reverse either but I wasn't going very fast. Sound seems to vary somewhat while in motion but it doesn't seem to get louder the faster I go. Hard to tell where exactly it's coming from besides not the engine. I looked underneath and the rotor backing plates didn't look obviously bent up or dented on. Driveshaft didn't look like it was contacting anything either but there's a cover over about half of it. Can anyone think of a likely cause to start with?
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May 18, 2017 21:35
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rscott posted:I have a 1983 300SD that is making a very loud metallic screeching noise (my coworkers said it sounded like a tornado siren going off) when the car is in motion after I went over a washboarded section of dirt parking lot and possibly bottomed out at least one corner. There's no noise when it's in park and it doesn't start whining until I'm moving a few miles an hour. Didn't seem to make the noise in reverse either but I wasn't going very fast. Sound seems to vary somewhat while in motion but it doesn't seem to get louder the faster I go. Hard to tell where exactly it's coming from besides not the engine. I looked underneath and the rotor backing plates didn't look obviously bent up or dented on. Driveshaft didn't look like it was contacting anything either but there's a cover over about half of it. Can anyone think of a likely cause to start with? Rock jammed against a rotor maybe?
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May 18, 2017 22:00
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Boys who love boys
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I drove it the 6 miles or so home, didn't really have any problems getting it there besides the weird looks everyone was giving me. Going up hill seemed to quiet it down but going downhill made it worse. I was going to jack it up by the rear and see which end the noise is coming from but I can't find my floor jack and it's about to tornado out so I guess that's gonna have to wait for another day
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May 18, 2017 23:33
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Godholio posted:NFC. There are already some hilarious exploits using signal repeaters to make the NFC signal unlock and start your car when the fob in in your house on the property not even close to the car.
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May 19, 2017 02:09
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rscott posted:I drove it the 6 miles or so home, didn't really have any problems getting it there besides the weird looks everyone was giving me. Going up hill seemed to quiet it down but going downhill made it worse. I was going to jack it up by the rear and see which end the noise is coming from but I can't find my floor jack and it's about to tornado out so I guess that's gonna have to wait for another day Drive it into the tornado? Problem solved.
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May 19, 2017 02:39
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How do you remove a super dark window tint? https://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3754419&userid=0&perpage=40&pagenumber=995#post472521747 Or just window tinting basically. http://www.wikihow.com/Remove-Window-Tint ??? Blow fucked around with this message at 07:00 on May 20, 2017 |
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May 20, 2017 06:47
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Blow posted:How do you remove a super dark window tint? Ammonia, the stronger the better. Spray it on the tint and then cover with plastic wrap or similar. Let it stew for awhile and it should come off quite easily. Just do it in a well ventilated space, cause that poo poo is nasty and you don't want to kill yourself. You can use a razor blade to aide removal, as a scraper not a cutter, unless you want to gently caress the glass up  Edit: that wikihow is right, except for steel wool on the glass that sounds dumb as gently caress `Nemesis fucked around with this message at 07:04 on May 20, 2017 |
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May 20, 2017 07:02
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Blow posted:How do you remove a super dark window tint? I just did this a few weeks ago. I used ammonia, a heat gun, and a razor blade to scrape the glue residue off. It was a massive pain in the rear end getting the glue residue off. I didn't cover the window with plastic after spraying so that may have been what screwed me.
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May 20, 2017 13:54
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2001 Subaru Outback. Car started up fine, and then during 30-35 minute drive home instrument cluster and audio head unit would go in and out of getting power. Specifically, tachometer would zero out in sync with outside temp not being displayed, and the whole audio unit would turn off and return to last known state (playing CD). Park back at home and window motors seem to be at 1/2 speed. Turned car off and immediately suspected some electrical weirdness. Car would not start back on, but in accessories mode the lights and seatbelt warning were able to turn on. So obviously there's not enough charge in the battery to turn the car on. Would you suspect battery near the end of it's life or something to do with the alternator or is there another path I should be following?
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May 20, 2017 16:57
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Maxwells Demon posted:2001 Subaru Outback. Car started up fine, and then during 30-35 minute drive home instrument cluster and audio head unit would go in and out of getting power. Specifically, tachometer would zero out in sync with outside temp not being displayed, and the whole audio unit would turn off and return to last known state (playing CD). Park back at home and window motors seem to be at 1/2 speed. This sounds most like a dying alternator. The tach wigging out is often the first sign on many cars. However, it's a Subaru - and subarus eat their battery terminals. Check them - make sure they're clean and tight and don't wiggle. In any case - take your battery out and get it charged and load tested. Any car parts store does both for free.
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May 20, 2017 17:13
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This is more of an alternative insanity question. Is it possible to buy an hour meter that you can open up and turn AHEAD? Got a machine with one thats got busted glass/lense/whatever. It doesn't seem to be working properly anymore. It still changes, but according to the meter, the machine was only running for an hour yesterday, when it was actually running for about 10 or so. Its not a big deal, I could just replace it with a new one and make a note of the replacement in my files for the machine, but if its possible to turn a new one ahead to match, that'd be sweet. This is not the one in question, but its pretty much the same.
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May 20, 2017 17:35
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You replace it and then sharpie add however many hours and then immediately smudge or paint over the number of hours to add, that's the traditional way Edit and never note it in the files you crazy man
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May 20, 2017 19:41
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I've been working on a project 280z and I'm at the point where I need to teach myself how to weld. I have a lincoln weld pak 100 that I really dont know where I got it and have used it to successfully weld a few things in the past but they weren't pretty. What I know I am going to need weld is patching a lot of spot welds where I am replacing the spare tire well, a few spots in the floor pans, and I know I want to reinforce the chassis but I haven't got to that point yet. I have practiced on some sheet metal that came out of the spare tire well donor car and at a low setting I am either not making a successful weld or blowing through it. Will converting this Weld Pak 100 with a mig conversion be sufficient for a car restoration project? Do I need to get a better unit? Where I am working I only have 120v but I could run a new circuit if I decide on a new unit and it would benefit me enough.
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May 20, 2017 21:06
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I need to do some transmission/slave cylinder clutch work on my truck. Should I shell out for a transmission jack, or just get one of those transmission adapters for my 2.5 ton floor jack? It's a M5OD-R2 tranny on my 1988 F150 if it matters.
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May 21, 2017 01:47
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kid sinister posted:I need to do some transmission/slave cylinder clutch work on my truck. Should I shell out for a transmission jack, or just get one of those transmission adapters for my 2.5 ton floor jack? It's a M5OD-R2 tranny on my 1988 F150 if it matters. You don't need either, and you should be able to get to your slave cylinder without removing the crossmember or dropping the trans all the way to the ground.
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May 21, 2017 02:21
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joat mon posted:You don't need either, and you should be able to get to your slave cylinder without removing the crossmember or dropping the trans all the way to the ground. For a concentric slave cylinder? Explain how. But yeah, I do need to drop the whole thing. Something is leaking and the whole thing could use a good cleaning.
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May 21, 2017 02:42
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Slave cylinder is on the input shaft. That is probably what is leaking. There is an access door to disconnect prior to dropping.
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May 21, 2017 04:19
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I'm back with more manual transmission questions (is this the right thread for this? seems like most people need help fixing their cars, not driving them) I did my first long drive in a MT car this weekend and want to clarify a few things about driving stick on the highway. My wife (the owner of said manual car) has her own way of doing things but it's often at odds with what I've seen online, so I'd like to understand not just the what/how but also the why. For reference, the car is just a 2008 civic 5MT. 1. Merging on to the highway: a couple videos I watched online showed people merging in 2nd or 3rd and then shifting up once in traffic. One guy stayed in 2nd and seemed to push his car up almost to redline. My wife likes to just gear up sequentially and be in 5th before merging in. She likes to shift to 5th gear at about 90km/h. Seems to me it would make the most sense to take 4th gear up to 100km/h (putting me at maybe 3500rpm) and then shift to 5th once I'm on the highway. How do you do it? 2. Passing: everyone online seems to say to downshift if you want to pass someone on the highway, with some people even saying they get down into 3rd. My wife just stays in 5th gear. I find the car basically has no pull in 5th when I'm already going 110km/h or so, but she says putting it in 4th at that speed would be bad for the engine. Is this just econobox reality or can I drop it into 4th and get some extra acceleration at that speed? Is it bad for the lifespan of the car to do this? Also, this is getting more into "how do cars go" territory but why does downshifting let you accelerate faster even though I just as often hear people talking about downshifting in order to engine brake?
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May 21, 2017 04:22
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You're correct, wife is wrong imo
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May 21, 2017 04:29
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prom candy posted:I'm back with more manual transmission questions (is this the right thread for this? seems like most people need help fixing their cars, not driving them) I did my first long drive in a MT car this weekend and want to clarify a few things about driving stick on the highway. My wife (the owner of said manual car) has her own way of doing things but it's often at odds with what I've seen online, so I'd like to understand not just the what/how but also the why. For reference, the car is just a 2008 civic 5MT. prom candy posted:Also, this is getting more into "how do cars go" territory but why does downshifting let you accelerate faster even though I just as often hear people talking about downshifting in order to engine brake? Edit: `Nemesis posted:You're correct, wife is wrong imo She's probably granny shifting, not even double clutching like she should.
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May 21, 2017 04:30
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1) If 5th has enough torque for you to merge safely, its fine. If there's a lot of traffic, or if theres not a lot of room to merge and your car doesn't accelerate quickly enough in 5th for people to not have to brake when you merge then absolutely use your lower gears as you accelerate faster using them. 2) Same principle. If you want to pass someone and don't care how long it takes just stay in 5th. If you want to complete the pass faster then shift into a lower gear. When you downshift, you give the throttle a blip so that when you drop it into 4th the revs are where they should be. This is not bad for the engine/transmission.
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May 21, 2017 04:36
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Christobevii3 posted:Slave cylinder is on the input shaft. That is probably what is leaking. There is an access door to disconnect prior to dropping. There's a little inspection window with a rubber plug. I don't see how I could do much with a hole that small, but I haven't really tried yet. Still, has anyone used one of those transmission holder adapters for floor jacks? How well do they work?
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May 21, 2017 04:45
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