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Spookydonut posted:I just bought a jigsaw to use mostly with my router/jigsaw table and the idea popped into my head "what if you tried the same with a recip saw?" I think you might need a new blade dogg
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May 22, 2017 16:58
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I find the idea of trying to set up a table and a fence for a tool that vibrates so much to be hilarious. Look at how many times the guy had to stop and re-clamp his jig because it kept falling off.
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May 22, 2017 19:07
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I'm shocked beyond description he had the sense to use a push block.
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May 23, 2017 12:23
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NPR Journalizard posted:Get a cyclone so you arent constantly changing vac bags. They are cheap as, and pay for themselves drat quick. Any cheap cyclone recommendations? The dust deputy seems the most common but also feels a bit absurd at $80 CDN. My current plan is to just make my own, it seems to work well for Matthias.
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May 23, 2017 15:52
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You can get a knockoff from eBay probably.
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May 23, 2017 15:54
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I didn't think to check for chinese knock offs. Thanks for the idea. Looks like Ali Express has some for $20 and free shipping. Probably 2 month shipping time though...
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May 23, 2017 16:02
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Just verifying that those dust collector are so worthwhile. I'm a terrible drywallest, and I've converted about 4 gallons of drywall compound paste into powder in my project. Vacuumed it all up, haven't cleaned the filter or once, although it does need it now. Don't even want to think about how this would have gone without the cyclone. Just wish I had built a little cart for the shop vac and collector to ride on.
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May 23, 2017 16:08
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While we're at it, recommendations for a proper dust collector? I want something more powerful than my shopvac. I dimly recall people saying that the Harbor Freight one wasn't awful, but I'm happy to go for not-bottom-of-the-barrel here if it means better features / less noise.
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May 23, 2017 16:13
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Yeah, just get the HF one on sale, it's fine and good. Mine has served me well for many years, through a number of applications. As a bonus, if you DO want to upgrade it, it's real easy to get after-market canister filters for it for improved filtration. The only change you'll actually need to do to it is to tie the bag to the hook, it tends to fall off when it deflates, not really a big deal, a loop of wire and you're set.
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May 23, 2017 16:23
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Bad Munki posted:Yeah, just get the HF one on sale, it's fine and good. Mine has served me well for many years, through a number of applications. As a bonus, if you DO want to upgrade it, it's real easy to get after-market canister filters for it for improved filtration. The only change you'll actually need to do to it is to tie the bag to the hook, it tends to fall off when it deflates, not really a big deal, a loop of wire and you're set. Hm, looking at this product, it says that it draws 20A. I'm guessing that means I get to run a new electrical circuit, because all of my outlets are 15A outlets on 20A breakers right now.
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May 23, 2017 16:35
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If they're on a 20A breaker, aren't they going to be wired with 12awg? Do your outlets have one of the pins in a T configuration, such that you could plug in either a 15A or a 20A plug? Like this: If so, you're good. That thing comes wired with a 5-15 plug anyhow, unless it's different than mine. I don't want to advise you to do something unsafe, but I'd be surprised if it actually drew 20A unless it was having to pull REALLY hard, or the motor actually stalled or something. To wit: I've been unwittingly running mine on a 15A circuit for years without trouble. That being said, I wonder if they've changed the specs at some point, I should probably go double-check.
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May 23, 2017 16:49
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I put in all the outlets myself, they're 15A outlets. Frankly I find the listed 20A rating kind of surprising, since that's a hard amperage to work around under the assumption that the load on a circuit/receptacle shouldn't exceed 80% of its capacity. You'd need a 25A-rated circuit/receptacle to safely run that motor, right? Actually, I think I'm gonna double-check that with the "don't burn your house down" thread.
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May 23, 2017 17:00
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Just FYI, the manual more specifically states 20A peak, that's probably just for a moment during startup. (You called it nominal in the burning house thread, I don't think that's actually accurate in this case.) I mean yeah, it can't hurt to ask over there, but I'm pretty sure you're good to go already. Pretty sure. Maybe. Might burn your house down though.
Bad Munki fucked around with this message at 17:11 on May 23, 2017 |
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May 23, 2017 17:09
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Bad Munki posted:Just FYI, the manual more specifically states 20A peak, that's probably just for a moment during startup. (You called it nominal in the burning house thread, I don't think that's actually accurate in this case.) I mean yeah, it can't hurt to ask over there, but I'm pretty sure you're good to go already. Pretty sure. Maybe. Might burn your house down though. This is why my workshop has a smoke detector, a fire extinguisher, and a hose bib right outside. 
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May 23, 2017 17:33
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Bad Munki posted:Just FYI, the manual more specifically states 20A peak, that's probably just for a moment during startup. (You called it nominal in the burning house thread, I don't think that's actually accurate in this case.) I mean yeah, it can't hurt to ask over there, but I'm pretty sure you're good to go already. Pretty sure. Maybe. Might burn your house down though. On a squirrel cage induction motor, the peak current is 3-5x for an unloaded startup, and 6-7x for a loaded startup. A blower like that is sorta in the middle, as it's very lightly loaded when still, but heavily loaded at 100% RPM, so figure 5x for peak current for 5-30 seconds as it comes up to speed. Which means the blower probably averages 5-6 amps steady state once it's up to speed, which is perfectly fine.
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May 23, 2017 17:49
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Mr. Mambold posted:You know I was going to PM you that evening because I looked on ebay and there was that same scroll saw, wrench, paperwork, everything going for 50 with 8 hours remaining. Of course shipping was near double that...... I appreciate the looking out. Looks like I will be upgrading the SA account, well and adding an avatar.
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May 24, 2017 19:54
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Bragging time. Just picked up a gramercy holdfast at an estate sale for two bucks.
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May 25, 2017 22:56
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coathat posted:Bragging time. Just picked up a gramercy holdfast at an estate sale for two bucks. Pics or it didn't happen.
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May 25, 2017 23:34
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On my fancy outdoor workbench with the $30 router I got last week.  I probably should have bought the incra miter gauge and sled they were selling for 40 bucks but i dont really need them and it bought me some goodwill with the old guy that runs the used tool store downtown.
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May 25, 2017 23:56
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Any suggestions on a good miter saw that isn't going to break the bank?
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May 26, 2017 01:30
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Gothmog1065 posted:Any suggestions on a good miter saw that isn't going to break the bank? The basic Hitachi 10" runs for about $100 on Amazon and is a great choice. Even if you later want to upgrade to a 12" sliding dual-bevel monstrosity, nothing beats the portability of the basic Hitachi.
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May 26, 2017 01:37
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This one I assume?
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May 26, 2017 02:48
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coathat posted:On my fancy outdoor workbench with the $30 router I got last week. drat you and your crazy good deals. That's a steal for both, and I'm a bit envious. I did pick up an Incra miter gauge and a mobile base for my table saw for $35 last month.
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May 26, 2017 05:08
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MrPete posted:Tape Chat! Empire is on my poo poo list. Since Milwaukee bought them, they gutted their tape measure offering to only a few models and totally did away with the ~$5 cheap ones. They think every contractor is going to buy their guys a $14 Milwaukee tape that will end up in their home tool box. Fortunately, just about every other brand covers that category too. Johnson Level has some nice cheap ones that we sell by the hundreds to contractors and ones also nice ones that can play in the FatMax market. I had a Stabila tape measure one time and that was one of the nicest ones I've tested. I think it was only 1" but could stand out close to 10'.
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May 27, 2017 03:49
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To go with my earlier question about dust collectors, what about cyclones? Seems like an obvious aftermarket mod to a dust collector. I'm having trouble finding plans for one though. I could just buy a dust deputy, but wouldn't I lose a lot of suction force going from the 4" ports on the collector to the 2" ports on the dust deputy?
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May 29, 2017 05:43
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I have a dust deputy for my shop vac and it works well. There are cheaper chinese knockoffs available now. It seems like it'd be pretty restrictive for a dust collector as you say. I'd look into building a thien baffle if I were in your shoes.
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May 29, 2017 14:19
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:To go with my earlier question about dust collectors, what about cyclones? Seems like an obvious aftermarket mod to a dust collector. I'm having trouble finding plans for one though. I could just buy a dust deputy, but wouldn't I lose a lot of suction force going from the 4" ports on the collector to the 2" ports on the dust deputy? That's why they sell bigger cyclones for full sized dust collectors. https://www.oneida-air.com/inventory.asp?CatId={17F46883-40BB-471E-982F-E5F28583241B}
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May 29, 2017 14:36
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coathat posted:That's why they sell bigger cyclones for full sized dust collectors. https://www.oneida-air.com/inventory.asp?CatId={17F46883-40BB-471E-982F-E5F28583241B} That's more expensive than the dust collector itself was, though. dyne posted:I have a dust deputy for my shop vac and it works well. There are cheaper chinese knockoffs available now. It seems like it'd be pretty restrictive for a dust collector as you say. I'd look into building a thien baffle if I were in your shoes. Thanks for the recommendation; this does look promising. I found this intro article and this thread and this page which should be good reading.
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May 29, 2017 14:54
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:To go with my earlier question about dust collectors, what about cyclones? Seems like an obvious aftermarket mod to a dust collector. I'm having trouble finding plans for one though. I could just buy a dust deputy, but wouldn't I lose a lot of suction force going from the 4" ports on the collector to the 2" ports on the dust deputy? If you are doing your research on dust collectors, I recommend read this thread because its got a lot of info about the generic 2hp DC unit you see everywhere and how to modify it for best performance. It is an australian forum though.
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May 29, 2017 15:01
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NPR Journalizard posted:If you are doing your research on dust collectors, I recommend read this thread because its got a lot of info about the generic 2hp DC unit you see everywhere and how to modify it for best performance. It is an australian forum though. Aha, thanks. Some good baseline information there about how motors work, and I'm sure some other possible mods as I get further along. I hadn't realized that buying a dust collector was a project, though.
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May 29, 2017 15:23
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:
Everything is a project if you try hard enough.
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May 29, 2017 15:27
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:Aha, thanks. Some good baseline information there about how motors work, and I'm sure some other possible mods as I get further along. Get a good one and it's not. The generic 2hp is not a good one, according to Bob, who has clearly put a lot of time into these things.
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May 29, 2017 22:03
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Has anyone had any experience with the Home Depot trench digger rental? I need to (wait for it) dig a trench about 70 feet long to install some new conduit to upgrade my main panel to 200 amps. The rental is $124 for the day, which seems like a no-brainer. This is the one they rent: http://www.homedepot.com/tool-truck-rental/Hydraulic-Trencher-18/E712MTH/index.html
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May 30, 2017 12:15
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Your trench is only going to be like 16" deep, is that okay?
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May 30, 2017 13:53
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I think it needs to be 24" deep. I don't see any rental options for bigger trench diggers, though. I saw something that said you could dig two channels and then put this into that bigger channel to dig deeper. What do you think?
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May 30, 2017 14:34
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SouthShoreSamurai posted:I think it needs to be 24" deep. I don't see any rental options for bigger trench diggers, though. I saw something that said you could dig two channels and then put this into that bigger channel to dig deeper. What do you think? If you're using conduit, it probably doesn't need to be that deep.
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May 30, 2017 14:38
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I did the exact same thing you did, rented that same trencher to lay down about 60ish ft of conduit. Previous poster is correct, it'll get you about 16" deep but the soil the falls in is pretty loose so you can go back in there and excavate the last couple inches by hand. We did the 4 hour rental option and we had it brought back and clean with more than an hour to spare, it goes surprisingly fast. If you're using metal conduit you only need to be 6" deep though
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May 30, 2017 15:27
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glynnenstein posted:If you're using conduit, it probably doesn't need to be that deep. This probably varies by region. At least in my part of California, it's 24" for direct burial of conductors, 18" for PVC conduit, and 12" for rigid metal conduit. That's all assuming there's just bare ground above the trench; if you were going to cover it with concrete then you could get away with less digging.
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May 30, 2017 15:27
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SouthShoreSamurai posted:I think it needs to be 24" deep. I don't see any rental options for bigger trench diggers, though. That was kinda my point, that the 18" probably won't work for you anyhow. Not only is it just not a big enough trencher, but you lose a few inches off the claimed maximum depth, usually. Call it backfill, scree, or one for the pan. Either way, 18" doesn't mean 18", even if that was deep enough. Hop on google maps and search for "equipment rental" or "machinery rental" or call a local landscaping place and ask about rentals. Home Depot and Lowe's do not count as landscaping places. You shouldn't have any trouble tracking down a 24" or even 36" trencher. Don't be intimidated by renting from a "real" equipment rental place: they rent to weekend warriors all the time just as much as the box stores. SouthShoreSamurai posted:I saw something that said you could dig two channels and then put this into that bigger channel to dig deeper. What do you think? Not with that kind of trencher, no way on earth. The way it works is the stinger goes in, and the machine crawls backwards, its wheels straddling where the trench will be. In order to do what you're describing, you'd need to make a trench at least as wide as the wheelbase. Which would mean multiple passes to widen it out, which this sort of trencher can't do, for a couple reasons: 1) on subsequent passes, the dirt wouldn't exist for the wheels to stand on, and 2) the stinger relies on the walls of the trench to hold the dirt on the chain as it gets pulled up. You just need a properly-sized trencher is all.
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May 30, 2017 15:31
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IOwnCalculus posted:Everything is a project if you try hard enough. :bigtran: Ain't that the truth!
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