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The 3 did indeed come with factory HIDs (the mid-2000s started the trend of putting them on non-luxury cars), but it should be pretty easy to identify them. The 3 used remote igniters that attach to the bulb via a long braided cable run through the interior of the housing. If you have a jumble of wires running into the low beam its a good bet you have a retrofit kit. To swap back you would just need the appropriate bulbs and harnesses for the low beams.
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May 23, 2017 23:04
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Geoj posted:The 3 did indeed come with factory HIDs (the mid-2000s started the trend of putting them on non-luxury cars), but it should be pretty easy to identify them. The 3 used remote igniters that attach to the bulb via a long braided cable run through the interior of the housing. If you have a jumble of wires running into the low beam its a good bet you have a retrofit kit. From your description, it sounds like these must have been factory installed. This whole time I was under the impression it was an aftermarket alteration, and had been cursing the former owner each time I had to switch out a bulb. 
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May 23, 2017 23:43
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Nope, it was a royal pain in the dick to swap HID bulbs on my factory-HID car. There's just not enough loving room.
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May 23, 2017 23:54
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Leperflesh posted:Oil filters are stupidly cheap and while a premium filter costs triple what a fram costs, that just means twelve bucks instead of four. Agreed. It only has to gently caress you over once to cost you more than every oil filter you will buy in your entire life.
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May 24, 2017 03:54
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Another off-the-wall question: Say I wanted to shop for a supercharger that could be driven by a lawn mower engine. It wouldn't be boosting the engine, just dumping compressed air into a chamber. How would I shop for such a thing? I found this guy for $75 currently, or this cute little thing for $100. Is my idea remotely feasible?
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May 24, 2017 20:20
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Why not pick up a compressor pump a'la https://www.harborfreight.com/145-psi-5-hp-twin-cylinder-air-compressor-pump-67698.html e. use a belt to drive it from the output shaft of your lawnmower engine.
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May 24, 2017 20:40
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Safety Dance posted:Why not pick up a compressor pump a'la https://www.harborfreight.com/145-psi-5-hp-twin-cylinder-air-compressor-pump-67698.html Now that's more like what I'm looking for! I'm moving away from trying to make the club's turbo jet engine make thrust and leaning towards something like this, should be a bit easier to design a good nozzle without having to worry about turbine pressure drop; compressor out = nozzle in. E: Hahaha whoops, left off a prefix and my power needs were waay off, the existing compressor isn't using 240 Watts of power, it's using 228 kW, about 300 hp. So instead of being able to greatly exceed it with a Briggs/Stratton, I'd need a small-block-driven pump just to match it. I guess exhaust turbines really are magic! Fender Anarchist fucked around with this message at 22:23 on May 24, 2017 |
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May 24, 2017 21:00
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98 Civic EX manual. I offered to help a friend fix this vehicle so he can learn to drive manual on it, he got it for like 500 bucks. It needs a new alternator. It looked pretty clean under the hood and we don't live in a rust belt state so I'm hopeful nothing is seized... But in the worst case scenario, how do you even approach extracting seized bolts? It's not something I've ever done before... The only things I've used before is PB blaster and sometimes a propane torch.
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May 24, 2017 21:50
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Razzled posted:98 Civic EX manual. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gFh8Pci5gpc
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May 24, 2017 22:07
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That's brilliant. Also if you have something already hot like that, touch some beeswax to it and it will wick right in and get stuff that PB would take days to soak into. I've disassembled some stuff that just looked like a lump of rust with beeswax and a torch. edit: probably better to breathe too shovelbum fucked around with this message at 22:51 on May 24, 2017 |
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May 24, 2017 22:48
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Also be really careful about re-using any part that you have heated up. Anything that is heat-treated steel, you are effectively tempering/annealing and potentially air-quenching in an uncontrolled manner, which changes the material properties. I think you're OK for exhaust parts as shown in that video, but don't be heating up engine or structural components. e. I doubt the temper on the nuts and bolts for an alternator mount is important, so long as you're not heating up anything else inadvertently. This is more for general use. I've seen shadetree mechanics heating suspension components to red hot and then re-using them which is a potentially fatal error. Leperflesh fucked around with this message at 22:57 on May 24, 2017 |
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May 24, 2017 22:54
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I did a 98 Civic alternator in a parking lot years and years ago, I think there's something on top of it that means you have to take some stuff apart to snake it out the bottom, I remember the hardest part was the axle nut edit: Leperflesh posted:e. I doubt the temper on the nuts and bolts for an alternator mount is important, so long as you're not heating up anything else inadvertently. This is more for general use. I've seen shadetree mechanics heating suspension components to red hot and then re-using them which is a potentially fatal error. Yeah that's what I like about the wax, you don't have to go so insane with the heat, you can get it down in there without going bananas with a torch edit 2: Evidently you can snake it out without unhooking the axle if you work at it, which is good news! shovelbum fucked around with this message at 23:03 on May 24, 2017 |
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May 24, 2017 22:57
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shovelbum posted:Yeah that's what I like about the wax, you don't have to go so insane with the heat, you can get it down in there without going bananas with a torch Ordinary carbon steel that has been quenched to glass hard will start to temper to a softer/tougher state at just ~400 degrees F. Most tempered steel has already been tempered higher than that, but once you're up above 500 degrees you're taking a significant risk that you're softening something that is supposed to be harder. So yeah, if you're gonna heat something to apply beeswax or whatever, don't get it so hot that it's too hot to touch. e. Jet fuel can't melt steel beams.jpg:  Bear in mind this chart is a simplification and that different alloys react at different temperatures. But: if you have a polished surface you can use the colors the steel turns on its surface to gauge how hot you've gotten it. And per this chart, if you see any color, you have already started to potentially alter the metal's properties. For heat treating, having reached the temper you want, you ordinarily would immmediately quench; if you're using a torch on a car part you are probably letting it air cool, which means you may be normalizing as well (resetting any stresses in the metal) which in turn could cause warping of some kinds of formed parts to boot. Leperflesh fucked around with this message at 23:09 on May 24, 2017 |
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May 24, 2017 23:03
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shovelbum posted:I did a 98 Civic alternator in a parking lot years and years ago, I think there's something on top of it that means you have to take some stuff apart to snake it out the bottom, I remember the hardest part was the axle nut Yeah, 96-00 can be done without pulling the axle. It's tight, but doable.
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May 24, 2017 23:38
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Is there a torque spec on radiator hose clamps, or just eyeball it?
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May 25, 2017 06:55
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Finger tight when using a screwdriver that's precisely 190mm from tip to the end of the handle, plus half a turn. If it's 185mm, add 1/8 of a turn. If it's 205mm, remove 1/4 of a turn. If it's 200mm, remove 1/4 of a turn, but add back 1/16 of a turn. Seriously though, so long as it's not anything exotic and the clamps you're using aren't worn out, just eyeball it. Don't crank them down so tight that the hose wrinkles (or worse, cracks the plastic to the radiator). Get them tight enough to not slip off the fitting, then add a turn or two; if they still leak, add half a turn at a time until they stop leaking. Remember that the stock clamps for a lot of cars are basically just springs that you can often remove by squeezing them with your fingers. I'm sure there is an actual spec somewhere, but it would likely be in in/lbs.
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May 25, 2017 08:41
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I have an inch-lbs torque driver and I am prepared to use it. At least on the plastic (ugh) of the radiator tank. The engine side is metal and not gonna break unless I actively want it to.
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May 25, 2017 11:42
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Hose clamps are sometimes used in aviation and do have torque figures to follow. Find a comparable fitting and use its numbers if you want. Platystemon fucked around with this message at 18:04 on May 25, 2017 |
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May 25, 2017 17:59
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Platystemon posted:Hose clamps are sometimes used in aviation and do have torque figures to follow. That document is so cool and practical holy heck why isn't there something like this for every industry
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May 25, 2017 18:39
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shovelbum posted:That document is so cool and practical holy heck why isn't there something like this for every industry As a technical writer, I can assure you that preparing a document like that is quite expensive. It requires time and effort by a team of people all of whom have fairly high levels of training or expertise, including a technical writer, technical draftsman/artist, engineer, and QA. Aviation engineering operates at a tremendously high level of documentation, in part because absolutely every last nut and bolt has to be certain to perform to exacting specifications. The aviation industry also has an auditability built in - if a bolt in an airframe breaks, it's possible to trace it back not just to the manufacturer, but to the specific date of manufacture, who was working on the machines on that day, and the name of the person who signed off on the quality of that bolt. By the same token, if a single torque spec in a big table of torque specs is accidentally wrong, a part could break that could cause a failure that could kill a planeload of people. Airplanes naturally cost millions of dollars. The reason there isn't something like this for every industry then boils down to cost. We could totally build cars the same way we build airplanes, but they'd all cost ten times what they currently do. This similarly applies to auto parts.
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May 25, 2017 21:01
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Leperflesh posted:The reason there isn't something like this for every industry then boils down to cost. We could totally build cars the same way we build airplanes, but they'd all cost ten times what they currently do. This similarly applies to auto parts. Yeah. I'm in the marine industry and there are a lot of good resources on operations and individual equipment but not so much on generic topics like how to tubing. Then again, as we always say, "boat knows how to float"
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May 25, 2017 22:35
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Maybe it's the difference between "engineering" and "trades"?
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May 25, 2017 23:49
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Drove the band's E350 ~2,500 miles in 5 days and the thermometer never indicated higher than this: Two questions: is it bad that the engine never really gets up to "operating temperatures" and if so, what could be causing it?
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May 26, 2017 16:03
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Looks ＮＯＲＭＡＬ to me.
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May 26, 2017 16:05
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 Cool, I know it says normal but I was worried cuz the fucker's 22 years old with an E4OD that goes "clunk" a lot.
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May 26, 2017 16:07
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scuz posted:Drove the band's E350 ~2,500 miles in 5 days and the thermometer never indicated higher than this: Thermostat stuck? Put some cardboard in front of the radiator and see if it warms up.
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May 26, 2017 16:21
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I have a stupid question related to swapping a crank position sensor on a 2002 Ranger with the 4.0 V6. It's in a goddamn infuriating location, is there a trick or is it really just that asinine? Based on other jobs I've done on this truck, I imagine it is really just that asinine. I'm going to just pull the fan and shroud if there is no other trick. The internet says you don't have to, but I've already spent an hour discovering that I don't have precisely the right length of extension and am about to light this hateful piece poo poo on fire. Give me a German "take everything apart first" job every day of the week, at least you know what to expect with those.
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May 26, 2017 17:15
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Stupid question: how bad are late-90's -2000 era gas powered Dodge Rams? I know they sold a poo poo ton of them, but there are way fewer for sale than Ford/Chevys.
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May 26, 2017 17:43
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Boys who love boys
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scuz posted:Two questions: is it bad that the engine never really gets up to "operating temperatures" Depends on how hot the engine is actually getting, and at what temperature the computer leaves closed loop mode. When the engine is cold the computer uses a different set of fuel trim tables that are generally set up to run rich, and if the engine never crosses the the temperature threshold where the computer starts adjusting trims on the fly you'll experience lower fuel economy as a result. Long term this could result in excessive carbon buildup and increased levels of fuel in the oil due to running rich all the time. I'd try the above suggestion and jam a sheet of cardboard in front of the radiator to check for a stuck open thermostat.
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May 26, 2017 17:50
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I wouldn't trust that gauge anyways. Take it to an Autozone and have them check the coolant temp using their scan tool thing before doing anything else.
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May 26, 2017 19:48
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`Nemesis posted:I wouldn't trust that gauge anyways. Take it to an Autozone and have them check the coolant temp using their scan tool thing before doing anything else. Also check with what is actually "normal" for this car. It may be exactly where it's supposed to be. A lot of gauges aren't calibrated to have the needle in the exact middle.
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May 26, 2017 20:05
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My assumption is yeah, the gauge's needle should be dead center. It's 20 years old and its radiator replaced ~3 years ago so I had always assumed that the radiator was so good at its job that the engine temp was always kept a bit low. I'll check out the thermostat and bring 'er on down to Autozone.
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May 26, 2017 20:50
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Are you still in Chicago, or did you go back to Minnesota?
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May 26, 2017 21:00
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Safety Dance posted:Are you still in Chicago, or did you go back to Minnesota?
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May 26, 2017 21:02
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scuz posted:My assumption is yeah, the gauge's needle should be dead center. It's 20 years old and its radiator replaced ~3 years ago so I had always assumed that the radiator was so good at its job that the engine temp was always kept a bit low. I'll check out the thermostat and bring 'er on down to Autozone. Is it acting up in some way? If it's been like that for 3 years with no issues why bother chasing down nothing? Comedy option: Somebody mistakenly/misguidedly put in a racing thermostat that opens sooner. They're right next to the normal ones on rockauto and I can see someone thinking "Racing?!? BETTER!! *mashes order button*"
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May 26, 2017 21:10
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Javid posted:Is it acting up in some way? If it's been like that for 3 years with no issues why bother chasing down nothing? Now that you mention it, the radiator was put in by a guy and his neighbor who was a Ford master tech and I can see them doing something like putting in a racing thermostat. He was super excited about the 7.5L V8 and told his wife "we need the biggest engine because reasons."
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May 26, 2017 21:19
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scuz posted:The only thing that went weird during the entire trip was the doghouse and trans tunnel got pretty got when we hit rush hour traffic. Only happened once and we sat in rush hour traffic afterward, so it's probably nothing The gauge in my 97 F250 with the 7.5 sits in the same place.
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May 26, 2017 21:28
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joat mon posted:The gauge in my 97 F250 with the 7.5 sits in the same place. Well mystery frickin' solved, I guess. Thanks for chiming in! Out of curiosity, what sort of transmission do you have? Ours has the E4OD and for the life of me I have no idea how to read the dipstick:  Like is the fluid supposed to be up around where it says "HOT" when the engine gets up to temp and is running or is it just supposed to get to that weird hole or...? Edit: to be clear, it's v hard for me to read anything on that dipstick at all and every time I check the thing, it looks dry. scuz fucked around with this message at 21:51 on May 26, 2017 |
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May 26, 2017 21:43
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The fluid level when the trans is hot should be within that depression on the stick where it says "hot", which it looks like it is. Usually the hole on the bottom is the cold "full enough" mark, but I dunno for your rig.
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May 26, 2017 21:54
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Heh, I stole that off another forum somewhere, just needed it for a visual aid. So the fluid mark will be that light? I'm used to checking oil dipsticks where there's no question whatsoever where the level is.
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May 26, 2017 21:56
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