|
I was focusing about a quarter of the way in, I wanted as much of the foreground in focus as possible and the focus to fall off to the back. The lens is a piece of poo poo though, it's probably exactly the same lens formula as the Industar 50 as found on cheaper Soviet SLRs of the period. It looks cool with a big, wide barrel but the front element is super small and it isn't sharp across the frame until about f/11.
|
#
?
May 21, 2017 09:25
|
|
|
|
| # ? Jun 6, 2024 12:56 |
|
|
Sauer posted:The low speeds on my Yashica Mat are a jamming. The internet tells me that's usually because of dried lubricants in the shutter timing mechanism. Let's just open it up and... Mine has been in my closet for months for this exact reason. Your post encouraged me to do something about it at last, so I dropped it at a shop yesterday for a CLA. Should cost as much as I paid for the camera but hey
|
|
#
?
May 21, 2017 11:57
|
|
|
A night in some lighter fluid freed up the lagging gear train without issue. It took quite a bit of force to actuate by hand and now its quite easy. I haven't had time to reassemble the camera though. Took the time while I was at it to clean the contacts for the flash sync as they were a little tarnished. There's a small spring clip that moves between two detents to hold the MX switch in whatever position you want and its quite worn on mine. Really easy to accidentally switch it to M mode. I'm thinking about affixing it in place in X mode with a bit of solder. Would require some contortions to get the cover plate back since the cutout for the switch is in the M position but shouldn't be a big deal. I'd just remove the switch outright but its a pretty important part of the Yashica Mat look and looking cool is more important than taking good picture am I right?
|
|
#
?
May 21, 2017 15:54
|
|
|
Finally got around to developing my first color roll. I chose some cheap rear end Fuji film ran through a 99 cent Pentax 105mm Good Will find. It turned out just as I expected, pure poo poo. I got the gist of it, so I got that going for me, which is nice. I'm going to share my wealth of personally developed poo poo photography.       Aside from being garbage photos, are those results decent for first time color development? I used the Unicolor C-41 kit and the colors seem to look ok on my monitor. I have 3 more rolls of 35 junk I'm going to practice with, then take on the pile of 120 I have saved up with PRECIOUS MEMORIES.
|
|
#
?
May 24, 2017 04:15
|
|
|
Well fuuuuck, I bought a dud Olympus Stylus (f/3.5). Didn't have film on me since I bought it on a whim off Craigslist. Seemed to power on fine and shoot empty so I just slapped down the $50 and was happy. Brought it home, threw a roll in and it looks like there's a dead gear somewhere. It refuses to load film most of the time, then when it does I hear this horrible chunky grinding noise. Camera absolutely refuses to rewind in the sense that the takeup side has a death-grip on the film. The canister side seems to turn when rewinding but it skips and jumps and is erratic so I presume that whatever has a death grip on my film on the takeup side caused the gearing on the canister side to strip teeth TRYING to rewind the film. C'est la vie and I'm only out $50 which is like $2 in photobucks so I guess unless this is a super easy thing to fix with some replacement gears I think this bad boy has a future as a shelf display 
|
|
#
?
May 25, 2017 02:20
|
|
|
Looks pretty good and consistent to me, especially for a first attempt. I'd be pretty stoked
|
|
#
?
May 25, 2017 12:13
|
|
|
Martytoof posted:Well fuuuuck, The odds of buying a used 35mm point & shoot that works to specification are like playing Russian roulette with 4 rounds in the revolver. More often than not, something's going to go wrong. My Stylus seemed to work just fine, but after developing the first roll from it, I saw that it doesn't actually focus. My XA has a smushy shutter button. So does my XA2. Thought about stepping up to a GR, but the stories I've heard from other people about their woes with finding a decent one put me off of that. Also looked at the Konica Hexar, but based on everything I've seen and heard, I think I'll skip it for now, too.
|
|
#
?
May 25, 2017 13:28
|
|
|
Yeah, after sleeping on it I'm not too surprised. I'll just call it a learning experience. Mostly annoyed that I wasted the $50 but in the grand scheme of things it's a non-issue.
|
|
#
?
May 25, 2017 14:52
|
|
|
https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/1436129614/intrepid-8x10-camera-an-affordable-large-format-ca
|
|
#
?
May 25, 2017 16:05
|
|
|
Martytoof posted:Yeah, after sleeping on it I'm not too surprised. I'll just call it a learning experience. Mostly annoyed that I wasted the $50 but in the grand scheme of things it's a non-issue. I would not and have not paid $50 for any of the Olympus Styluses I own. I got a free one, one from a Savers for $5, and one I bought solely for parts. I want to be mad FOR you. The only one I have left now is the first one, and it's a little rough. The nicer one from the thrift store locks up after taking a shot, makes a pretty nasty grinding noise. Who the hell do they think they are trying to get $50 outta that camera?
|
|
#
?
May 25, 2017 21:56
|
|
|
Understanding posted:I would not and have not paid $50 for any of the Olympus Styluses I own. That's the going rate now. Be glad you got a deal.
|
|
#
?
May 25, 2017 22:59
|
|
|
Understanding posted:I would not and have not paid $50 for any of the Olympus Styluses I own. I have seen a Pentax K1000 with I think two lenses and a cheap flash listed for $1200 on Craigslist.
|
|
#
?
May 25, 2017 23:10
|
|
|
My local camera store know my weakness for Soviet film cameras and often put stuff aside for me to have a first refusal. They had a Lubitel 166 that was missing the 645 mask and their sticker price was €100.
|
|
#
?
May 25, 2017 23:49
|
|
|
unpacked robinhood posted:Looks pretty good and consistent to me, especially for a first attempt. I'd be pretty stoked Sweet. I was pretty happy with the outcome, but was curious to see if it looked decent on other peoples monitors. ansel autisms posted:https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/1436129614/intrepid-8x10-camera-an-affordable-large-format-ca This is pretty cool and very tempting. I plan to move to large format someday. I keep checking good will for steals on a stylus or some other cult camera. Not much so far, just a pentax 105mm for 99 cents and a Chinon Genesis IV for 1.50. Curious to see how the roll of film looks I ran through the Chinon. It looked so ugly and helpless sitting on the shelf, so I couldn't pass it up. I read up on it a bit on my phone before buying it and it looked like a pretty advanced camera in its time. The prices people are asking for older massively produced film cameras is insane. 50 bucks for a stylus is frikkin' awesome.
|
|
#
?
May 26, 2017 00:46
|
|
|
Understanding posted:I would not and have not paid $50 for any of the Olympus Styluses I own. If it worked I would be stoked about getting it for $50. The form factor is even nicer than I remembered from when I owned one in the 90s, and I'm not sure what else I can do for a legitimately pocketable 35mm camera. My biggest regret about the $50 is that I cheaped out over spending $150 or so on a Stylus Epic 2.8, but in hindsight I should have just put that towards buying a known-good one on eBay or something. e: I just took it apart and two gears are completely stripped. If I can find a busted parts camera I'm totally up for fixing this bad boy. some kinda jackal fucked around with this message at 01:17 on May 26, 2017 |
|
#
?
May 26, 2017 00:49
|
|
|
look on the bright side, you could have spent $600 on a contax t2 and then have it broken down and been unable to get any repairs for it.
|
|
#
?
May 26, 2017 07:04
|
|
|
What's the deal with the Intrepid 4x5? Birch plywood treated with teak oil ought to hold up nicely and can be milled to adequate spec, but considering the whole thing I wonder how precisely an average human can zero the front, compared to a Linhof or Chamonix. Looks like a recessed lens board would be necessary to use something like a 75-65mm lens. But that'd be doable? The backs are held on by clips with rubber bungees? I wonder how easy they are to replace once they lose tension or break.
|
|
#
?
May 27, 2017 05:07
|
|
|
You know what? drat conventional control design, I prefer the shutter speed buttons on the ME Super to a knob. Just feels more natural to press buttons that sit under my finger anyway than fiddle with some round thing when the camera is in my face.
|
|
#
?
May 29, 2017 04:22
|
|
|
fuji is discontinuing acros 100 in 4x5 and 8x10, also discontinuing natura 1600 in 35mm (tho i thought it already was)
|
|
#
?
May 29, 2017 17:24
|
|
|
SMERSH Mouth posted:What's the deal with the Intrepid 4x5? Birch plywood treated with teak oil ought to hold up nicely and can be milled to adequate spec, but considering the whole thing I wonder how precisely an average human can zero the front, compared to a Linhof or Chamonix. zeroing standards isn't as important as you think it is
|
|
#
?
May 29, 2017 19:19
|
|
|
Martytoof posted:If it worked I would be stoked about getting it for $50. The form factor is even nicer than I remembered from when I owned one in the 90s, and I'm not sure what else I can do for a legitimately pocketable 35mm camera. i took one of my stylus apart recently, was it the small gears that connect to the film spool that stripped? it hid away under some plastic on the right side of thr camera? the two sets of stripped gears were at the film spool itself and those little ones that connect it, i'm talking that stacked set of gears no more than a 1/4in big
|
|
#
?
May 29, 2017 20:36
|
|
|
SMERSH Mouth posted:What's the deal with the Intrepid 4x5? Birch plywood treated with teak oil ought to hold up nicely and can be milled to adequate spec, but considering the whole thing I wonder how precisely an average human can zero the front, compared to a Linhof or Chamonix. I got one of the first models but haven't used it a ton, the newer ones look a bit sturdier and more compact around the front standard. The screw that locks the front standard facing forward was slightly off-angle and the focusing mechanism wasn't the smoothest. The ground glass is a bit dim as there's no fresnel screen on it but you could replace that. There's small screws on the rear standard which (should?) let you remove the rear bellows giving you access to the bungees but it might be worth messaging them to find out.
|
|
#
?
May 29, 2017 21:06
|
|
|
Understanding posted:i took one of my stylus apart recently, was it the small gears that connect to the film spool that stripped? it hid away under some plastic on the right side of thr camera? the two sets of stripped gears were at the film spool itself and those little ones that connect it, i'm talking that stacked set of gears no more than a 1/4in big The gears in question were accessible after removing the backplate, popping the camera up a little while trying desperately to not jam a sausage finger into the flash capacitor, then unscrewing the little metal plate at the bottom of the whole assembly. I forget what they looked like at the moment but I'll take a snapshot when I get home today. One was a set of planetary-style gears and one was the gear that attached to them. Terrible descriptions, but to be fair they were terrible gears 
|
|
#
?
May 30, 2017 13:31
|
|
|
i think I get what you mean, there are two sets of these gears stacked on top of one another.
|
|
#
?
May 31, 2017 02:55
|
|
|
Understanding posted:i think I get what you mean, there are two sets of these gears stacked on top of one another. Yeap.  Broken and /filthy/ Good news is that this should be easy to salvage from any donor Stylus. Bad news is that they're all probably in the same condition 
|
|
#
?
May 31, 2017 03:05
|
|
|
ansel autisms posted:zeroing standards isn't as important as you think it is and if it is to ou you can just do what I did to my chamonix and paint reference lines in it.
|
|
#
?
May 31, 2017 04:47
|
|
|
Martytoof posted:Yeap. that one on the left doesnt look all that familiar
|
|
#
?
May 31, 2017 10:33
|
|
|
Understanding posted:that one on the left doesnt look all that familiar I forgot exactly how it was put together but it was in the same bundle of gears. Either way, I'll keep the camera handy just in case I run into another beater I can use. Right now it's taken up its new life as eye candy on my camera shelf 
|
|
#
?
May 31, 2017 11:45
|
|
|
Local classic car club had an outing the other day so I came along and shot them with some classic camera gear. These are with the Moskva which is quickly becoming my favourite camera. It's a 6x9 medium format camera that's just a blast to use. People love it when I ask f I can take their picture then press the button to unfold it.  Moskva023.jpg by Iain Compton, on Flickr  Moskva001.jpg by Iain Compton, on Flickr  Moskva021.jpg by Iain Compton, on Flickr Moskva006.jpg by Iain Compton, on Flickr I'll have some colour 6x6 shots from my Arax in a day or so once I've scanned and cleaned those up.
|
|
#
?
May 31, 2017 12:23
|
|
|
 aint you the luckiest sonnabitch? also, from what I can tell, the small gear's supposed to be riveted to the bottom plate, which is soldered the control boards on the camera. as you can see mine fell off. The Modern Sky fucked around with this message at 23:19 on May 31, 2017 |
|
#
?
May 31, 2017 23:14
|
|
|
If you ever chose to get rid of your garbage gears let me know 
|
|
#
?
Jun 1, 2017 00:14
|
|
|
i'll PM you, from what i can see i dont have much to take from this donor body than a nicer shell for the camera
|
|
#
?
Jun 1, 2017 00:42
|
|
|
Some rolls back from the lab today. Mostly Ektar, some Portra. Tanker by Trevor Zuliani, on Flickr Shipping by Trevor Zuliani, on Flickr Mirrors by Trevor Zuliani, on Flickr Det by Trevor Zuliani, on Flickr
|
|
#
?
Jun 2, 2017 10:48
|
|
|
 
|
|
#
?
Jun 2, 2017 16:23
|
|
|
So I found the most curious thing about my Canon 7 yesterday. I've been noticing sporadic light leaks from my rangefinder since I first got it 6-7 months ago but no idea what it could be. Doing the flashlight test over and over again I finally found the cause of my problem. The camera has a metal horizontal curtain that works like any cloth curtain, one opens , then the next follows, but it's not closing all the way. A little sliver of light comes through from the end of the curtain ruining my shots. How do you fix that exactly?
|
|
#
?
Jun 4, 2017 17:58
|
|
|
Finally found time to finish working on my Mat's shutter timer and its functioning just fine now. Timings are spot on for the faster speeds and well within tolerances for anything under 1/15th. Will probably get better as the new lube gets into the gear posts. Glad I didn't have to replace a worn out spring or anything. Tested with a photo transistor hooked up to the sound card. Teensie tiny little drop of machine oil on a soft brush was a great idea, thanks! Now to take apart the self-timer because its displaying exactly the same issue. Looks like its nearly the same sort of assembly as the shutter speed timer, just a little larger.
Sauer fucked around with this message at 11:01 on Jun 5, 2017 |
|
#
?
Jun 5, 2017 10:58
|
|
|
Understanding posted:So I found the most curious thing about my Canon 7 yesterday. I've been noticing sporadic light leaks from my rangefinder since I first got it 6-7 months ago but no idea what it could be. Doing the flashlight test over and over again I finally found the cause of my problem. There's two possible causes for this. One is that the shutter is gummed up and the second curtain "loses steam" before it completes it travel. Could also be a tired mainspring, I guess, but unlikely. Possibility two is that the shutter brake (whose function is to gradually decelerate the shutter curtains so they don't slam into the post) is over tensioned or simply out of adjustment. Also have you checked as to whether it's not actually slamming into the post full speed and bouncing back out? (Dead brake in that case.) If you have a high speed camera, (smartphone etc) you could film your shutter and take a look at the width of the slit as it travels across the focal plane. If it changes width or is otherwise uneven that points to issue number one. I'd post some shots I took from disassembling a Canon VL for a friend but I dunno if that's helpful to you at this stage.
|
|
#
?
Jun 6, 2017 01:47
|
|
|
without checking, all i can say is that it closes with a bit of a "Fwump", I can't take it apart just yet until i get myself a spanner wrench. I'll try that the next time i have my camera on my bench edit: quickly checking the shutter with my phone, everything looks like it functions normally, it's just the follow curtain may have a mm or less of travel to completely seal the exposure area from more light, if i recock the shutter there's no problem. The Modern Sky fucked around with this message at 05:02 on Jun 7, 2017 |
|
#
?
Jun 7, 2017 04:52
|
|
|
I'm looking to get a film scanner to get all of my negatives scanned correctly. I shoot mostly MF, is the consensus still to go with an Epson V* scanner? I was going to post this in the scanning thread but that seems to be archived now. I had my eye on the V600, as I can't really tell what the difference is between the V800 and the V600 except for the DMAX4 capabilities? I'm looking to spend about $2-300. Thanks y'all.
|
|
#
?
Jun 12, 2017 21:36
|
|
|
|
| # ? Jun 6, 2024 12:56 |
|
|
scotty posted:I'm looking to get a film scanner to get all of my negatives scanned correctly. The V800 is going to be noticeably better, but unless you're printing really large, the V600 is totally fine, especially for your budget.
|
|
#
?
Jun 13, 2017 01:22
|
|
